*d2mini's new 200g Reeftastic Build*

[slief]

Originally Posted by d2mini

Aren't all new sumps? And then 6 months later, that's a whole nuther story...

So true.. I still think my sumps are purdy! Like a well aged wine, they only get better with time. Looking good though!

[shermanator]

Looks like a sweet sump. You made some nice changes to the stock LF1-300S. Are you getting a custom "LifeReefugium" as well?

And what are you planning on using for GFO? From what I recall (I'm still waiting on my filter cylinders), Jeff said standard GFO cannot be used (because his cylinders are down flow and not fluidized (you'll end up with a solid mass of GFO)). He recommends a Brightwell product, but I've not read many reviews on the product he sells (Brightwell Extrax Phos).

[d2mini]

Originally Posted by Nina51

unless you have OCD like i do.

Ok, i showed you mine... now show me yours, Nina!

[d2mini]

Originally Posted by shermanator

Looks like a sweet sump. You made some nice changes to the stock LF1-300S. Are you getting a custom "LifeReefugium" as well?

And what are you planning on using for GFO? From what I recall (I'm still waiting on my filter cylinders), Jeff said standard GFO cannot be used (because his cylinders are down flow and not fluidized (you'll end up with a solid mass of GFO)). He recommends a Brightwell product, but I've not read many reviews on the product he sells (Brightwell Extrax Phos).

Thanks... and yes... i hear there just may be a sweet little refugium with my name on it too.

Not sure on the GFO. I don't run it often anyway. But I want to have the filter cylinder for it for when I do need it.
I think the stuff from BlueLife would also work since their new "Resinator" filter canisters work pretty much the same way as Jeff's.

[d2mini]

What do you think of my general return plumbing layout?
Nothing is to scale, it's just a rough sketch.
See any issues?
The plan is to be able to adjust the flow to the UV or bypass it completely.
Plus send the flow through my chiller, plus feed the frag tank, mangrove tank and reactor manifold.

[slief]

Originally Posted by d2mini

What do you think of my general return plumbing layout?
Nothing is to scale, it's just a rough sketch.
See any issues?
The plan is to be able to adjust the flow to the UV or bypass it completely.
Plus send the flow through my chiller, plus feed the frag tank, mangrove tank and reactor manifold.

Great layout!! That is perfect for bypassing the UV for maintenance purposes. What about the drain/spigot we spoke about? if you do add one, I would add it just below where the chiller line enters the UV. Only thing I am not sure about is having it return directly back into the return line as opposed to having it continue on through it's own dedicated line back to the tank. I say that because I am not sure how the two converging flows will react and whether it will cause turbulence in the line that may impede overall return flow.

[d2mini]

Originally Posted by slief

Great layout!! That is perfect for bypassing the UV for maintenance purposes. Only thing I am not sure about is having it return directly back into the return line as opposed to having it continue on through it's own dedicated line back to the tank. I say that because I am not sure how the two converging flows will react and whether it will cause turbulence in the line that may impede overall return flow.

I see what you are saying. But, the thought was to have most, if not all water going through the UV, so it would have to get back into the return line ASAP in order to feed everything else.
This 80w UV when used for a reef tank requires a flow rate of around 2500-3600 gph for the lower kill rate.

Thoughts?

[overexposed]

Won't taking the UV offline also take your chiller offline?

[d2mini]

Originally Posted by overexposed

Won't taking the UV offline also take your chiller offline?

Dammit! Thank you!
Back to the drawing board....

[overexposed]

Hehe no problem, I was wondering if I was missing something! Wouldn't want to be without both of those units if one goes tail up.

[slief]

Originally Posted by d2mini

I see what you are saying. But, the thought was to have most, if not all water going through the UV, so it would have to get back into the return line ASAP in order to feed everything else.
This 80w UV when used for a reef tank requires a flow rate of around 2500-3600 gph for the lower kill rate.

Thoughts?

I'd aim for 2400-2500 gph. which is where you will probably be anyway. Heck, I think you could go a little lower. That's about what I am running through my 114w unit.. Maybe even a little less but mine is on a closed loop where as yours is also returning from your fuge so I guess I would probably err on the side of higher flow so as to not nuke copepods too badly.

[d2mini]

Originally Posted by overexposed

Hehe no problem, I was wondering if I was missing something! Wouldn't want to be without both of those units if one goes tail up.

This is why I post it up!
I also have an extra 1" bulkhead in the return section of my sump. I could use that to feed a second, dedicated pump just for the chiller.
That would simplify the plumbing a bit.
Hmmm...

Originally Posted by slief

I'd aim for 2400-2500 gph. which is where you will probably be anyway. Heck, I think you could go a little lower. That's about what I am running through my 114w unit.. Maybe even a little less but mine is on a closed loop where as yours is also returning from your fuge so I guess I would probably err on the side of higher flow so as to not nuke copepods too badly.

Yeah, this is kinda what I was thinking.

[slief]

Originally Posted by d2mini

What do you think of my general return plumbing layout?
Nothing is to scale, it's just a rough sketch.
See any issues?
The plan is to be able to adjust the flow to the UV or bypass it completely.
Plus send the flow through my chiller, plus feed the frag tank, mangrove tank and reactor manifold.

Where is the skimmer in this equation? Where is it drawing from? I'm not sure I would have the refugium upstream from the skimmer anyway if that is the plan. If anything, I would have the refugium and mangrove tank drain downstream of the skimmer or have those two return directly to the display via a dedicated small pump. Also, if you are feeding the refugium via the return pump, you will want an additional valve above the T fitting that leads to the refugium line to create a little back pressure if needed to divert water. Since that is below the tank level, it will likely not be an issue as it's the path of least resistance but you never know.

[Nina51]

Originally Posted by d2mini

Ok, i showed you mine... now show me yours, Nina!

be careful what you wish for!

when do you expect to have everything up and going? you know, so people like me who are technically challenged and have no freakin' idea what those drawings mean, will be able to see all the pretty fishies?

[d2mini]

Originally Posted by slief

Where is the skimmer in this equation? Where is it drawing from? I'm not sure I would have the refugium upstream from the skimmer anyway if that is the plan. If anything, I would have the refugium and mangrove tank drain downstream of the skimmer or have those two return directly to the display via a dedicated small pump. Also, if you are feeding the refugium via the return pump, you will want an additional valve above the T fitting that leads to the refugium line to create a little back pressure if needed to divert water. Since that is below the tank level, it will likely not be an issue as it's the path of least resistance but you never know.

The skimmer is in the sump pic on the previous page.
The refugium will be fed from the drain area of the sump, or from one of the drains directly. I will decide that once I have the sump and fuge in place.
I was going to have the frag tank and mangrove tank drain into the skimmer section of the sump.

Originally Posted by Nina51

be careful what you wish for!

when do you expect to have everything up and going? you know, so people like me who are technically challenged and have no freakin' idea what those drawings mean, will be able to see all the pretty fishies?

LOL, I won't have the sump until just before Xmas... fingers crossed. Which means I can't plumb until then! But once it arrives, it's on like Donkey Kong.

[d2mini]

ok, I updated the plumbing.
Ran a separate line/pump for the chiller.
What do you think now?
I would just need to decide if it's better to run the chiller back into the sump, or up into the display tank.

[overexposed]

Should probably have another ball valve before the UV input otherwise things might get messy when you take it offline!

[biecacka]

Great looking layout Dennis. I would dump the chiller back into the sump. Sure, it would be ideal if you could take it strait to the DT. But what about when it's not being used. Then the return line you dedicated for it would be idle. That way the flow to the DT stays constant regardless of chiller usage.

Corey

[slief]

Originally Posted by d2mini

ok, I updated the plumbing.
Ran a separate line/pump for the chiller.
What do you think now?
I would just need to decide if it's better to run the chiller back into the sump, or up into the display tank.

What are you planning on running for a return pump? I'd ditch the second chiller pump, upgrade to a larger return pump and run the chiller off a manifold or a T on the return line and send the flow back to the sump or display.
My return pump which was originally a Hammerhead Gold but now a Superdart Gold runs my chiller (which is 50' away in my garage and returns to my sump), my GFO reactor (returns to sump), Carbon reactor (returns to sump), my 60 gallon display refugium (also returns to sump) and still has plenty of flow (2500GPH +/-) left for the return to the tank. I'm guessing that some of your thinking is being influenced by the desire to retain a certain amount of flow to the UV unit. Worst case, you can run lower flow through it and run it 12 hours a day as opposed to 24/7. I run mine 12 hours a day during the summer and while it may shorten bulb life a bit, I've never had any ballast failures.

[slief]

Originally Posted by overexposed

Should probably have another ball valve before the UV input otherwise things might get messy when you take it offline!

Yea, I think he just left that valve out of his second drawing by mistake. I use union ball valves above and below my UV. I suggest having a drain spigot below the UV to drain the water from the UV when servicing it.

[d2mini]

Originally Posted by overexposed

Should probably have another ball valve before the UV input otherwise things might get messy when you take it offline!

Yes, that is the plan if I have enough room height wise.
Otherwise, a bucket will be used. lol

Originally Posted by slief

What are you planning on running for a return pump? I'd ditch the second chiller pump, upgrade to a larger return pump and run the chiller off a manifold or a T on the return line and send the flow back to the sump or display.
My return pump which was originally a Hammerhead Gold but now a Superdart Gold runs my chiller (which is 50' away in my garage and returns to my sump), my GFO reactor (returns to sump), Carbon reactor (returns to sump), my 60 gallon display refugium (also returns to sump) and still has plenty of flow (2500GPH +/-) left for the return to the tank. I'm guessing that some of your thinking is being influenced by the desire to retain a certain amount of flow to the UV unit. Worst case, you can run lower flow through it and run it 12 hours a day as opposed to 24/7. I run mine 12 hours a day during the summer and while it may shorten bulb life a bit, I've never had any ballast failures.

Actually it just seemed to simplify things after working on yesterday's version to have a separate pump.
My return pump is a Reeflo Barracuda Gold.

[overexposed]

Originally Posted by d2mini

Yes, that is the plan if I have enough room height wise.
Otherwise, a bucket will be used. lol


Actually it just seemed to simplify things after working on yesterday's version to have a separate pump.
My return pump is a Reeflo Barracuda Gold.

For the ball valve before the UV my thinking was that you won't be able to run the return pump while the UV is disconnected because it would just pump water all over the floor

[slief]

Originally Posted by d2mini

Yes, that is the plan if I have enough room height wise.
Otherwise, a bucket will be used. lol


Actually it just seemed to simplify things after working on yesterday's version to have a separate pump.
My return pump is a Reeflo Barracuda Gold.

I'd stick with the one pump. Upgrade the impeller and volute to a hammerhead one. While on paper the second pump may simplify things, I feel it's is counter productive because it will add more heat to your system in addition to consuming more power. I've been running my setup this way for 5 years. That said, my chiller hasn't turned on in over two years now after increasing my max allowable temp to 82 and using a couple small fans to regulate it from there. This is in spite of our daily 100* + summer averages here in So. Cal and despite the fact that I don't run my AC during the day. In the winter my tank averages 77. Before my last upgrade and pump consolidation and switch to Reeflo's 5 years ago, my tank would have hit 100 if I didn't run a chiller and my 1/2HP chiller was running 12 hours a day mostly from heat transfer from my pumps.

[slief]

Originally Posted by d2mini

Yes, that is the plan if I have enough room height wise.
Otherwise, a bucket will be used. lol

Just put a "T" fitting in the PVC line below the UV with a PVC spigot or a gate valve with a Hose fitting. Then you can easily drain the water without a mess on your floor. Heck, you could use a gate valve or ball valve with a barbed fitting and some nylon hose coiled up when not in use. Otherwise, as soon as you open those unions the water will go everywhere before you can get a bucket under them. The added valve with the drain line is something you will be grateful for when it comes time to cleaning your sleeves.. Trust me on that one! It's something I wish I would have added when I set mine up.

[d2mini]

Originally Posted by overexposed

For the ball valve before the UV my thinking was that you won't be able to run the return pump while the UV is disconnected because it would just pump water all over the floor

Another great catch!
I'll add that in there.
Thanks!

Originally Posted by slief

I'd stick with the one pump. Upgrade the impeller and volute to a hammerhead one. While on paper the second pump may simplify things, I feel it's is counter productive because it will add more heat to your system in addition to consuming more power. I've been running my setup this way for 5 years. That said, my chiller hasn't turned on in over two years now after increasing my max allowable temp to 82 and using a couple small fans to regulate it from there. This is in spite of our daily 100* + summer averages here in So. Cal and despite the fact that I don't run my AC during the day. In the winter my tank averages 77. Before my last upgrade and pump consolidation and switch to Reeflo's 5 years ago, my tank would have hit 100 if I didn't run a chiller and my 1/2HP chiller was running 12 hours a day mostly from heat transfer from my pumps.

Ok, I'll try again at working something out.
I'm pretty crammed for space. That's the main problem. Especially when trying to reduce hard 90's and other tight turns that create friction loss.

Originally Posted by slief

Just put a "T" fitting in the PVC line below the UV with a PVC spigot or a gate valve with a Hose fitting. Then you can easily drain the water without a mess on your floor. Heck, you could use a gate valve or ball valve with a barbed fitting and some nylon hose coiled up when not in use. Otherwise, as soon as you open those unions the water will go everywhere before you can get a bucket under them. The added valve with the drain line is something you will be grateful for when it comes time to cleaning your sleeves.. Trust me on that one! It's something I wish I would have added when I set mine up.

Gotcha! Thanks!