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06/04/2012, 06:11 PM | #1 |
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Advise on adding FeOxide to system
Hello reefers,
I've been reefing for over 25 years now and generally believe in keeping it simple. I've had variable success with full blown SPS. I think I'm on the verge of getting my SPS Tank looking like we all want. That being said I am starting to get some hair algae growing. The tank has been set up a year. I started the system with bio pellet reactor which over several month turned out to begin bleaching things. It's offline for about 4 months now. I recently fell back on water changes by a few weeks and my lawn mower blenny died. My nitrates are less than 1ppm (salifert) and phosphates are below 0.025 (Salifert). It seems most sweet looking SPS tanks use iron sulfate reactors. So I feel compelled to consider slowly beginning one on my reef. I don't want to do anything to upset the specimens though. So, what do you advise? Add a reactor? Start with a very small amount of FeOxide? Here's my specs: 120 glass. Mostly SPS (acropora, pocillopora and montipora) 10 Fish Old euro-skimmer (I think 180) Refugia with about 2 gallons of chaeto. No mechanical filtration (just a settling chamber that I vacuum at each water change. 2 MP 40's Change about 10% water per month on average ( when I'm consistent it's 5 gallons a week). Thanks for your opinions in advance! |
06/05/2012, 08:30 AM | #2 |
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I run a GFO reactor. Very good idea to have one running with GFO 24/7.
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__________ Current Tank Info: Past reef tanks: 20H softy, 29G mixed reef, 55G mixed reef, 40B sps dominant mixed reef and 75G sps dominant mixed reef. No tank currently |
06/05/2012, 08:46 AM | #3 |
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Thanks allsps40.
Looking for more input. I have read a thread about starting with 1 tsp per 8 gallon at first. Anyone else have any advice? Anyone not advise using GFO? |
06/05/2012, 09:08 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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90 gallon SPS dominated tank |
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06/05/2012, 09:35 AM | #5 |
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Many successful reefs are maintained long term without using any of the reactors, or suppliments other than Ca or Alk. I personally know four successful systems that have been going long term without any of that stuff. All of these systems use remote fuges with sand beds and macro algae to maintain long term water quality. There are other much less complicated ways to do it than what you read on this forum.
One of the reasons that you dont hear so much about these types of systems is they tend to be large and most are kept by older experienced reefers who have quit posting on these forums long ago. |
06/05/2012, 09:57 AM | #6 |
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Thanks honkit,
So, when using GFO, do we find the increased need to supplement amino acids? Dog boy Dave: That's exactly why I am asking. I've been reefing more than half my life. If memory serves me right GFO starting getting wide spread use about 10-15 years ago in US. We still had amazing reefs prior to that. That's not to state GFO wasn't available prior to that and we also had aluminum based phosphate removers. My concern is doing this right. I've seen wide spread use of GFO here, but don't want to jump at something if there is logic out there to counter the method. While I know my tank could be successful without any supplements or reactors, I do want to cautiously add tried and true methods that will improve my odds of success. |
06/05/2012, 07:00 PM | #7 |
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GFO can be a good tool to lower your phosphate if you need to do so. IME it's best to use it in smaller quantities at first. Using a whole lot right off the bat never seems to turn out well for a lot of people.
That said. If your PO4 is already at .025 then it sounds like you don't really need it. That is a respectable level to be at actually, so why mess with it? IMHO I would invest in a photometer to get yourself a more accurate reading before deciding. I used to think my PO4 was that low too, back when I was using a Salifert test kit. |
06/05/2012, 07:52 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
I have since stopped GFO after I have embarked on an Ultralith probiotics program. The phospate is needed for bacteria to consume before it is removed by my protein skimmer.
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90 gallon SPS dominated tank |
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06/05/2012, 10:35 PM | #9 |
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It's all helpful info guys. If I do start GFO I'll start with a very small amount and gradually increase until the hair algae dies back. The chaeto bed has worked well up to now to control nitrates and phosphates as well as nuisance algae. I think the hair algae started growing because I was feeding the corals on an almost daily basis for about a week to 10 days. The hair algae came on quickly a week or so following that change in practice. Previously I had only fed the corals weekly at most.
Maybe I'll just do some extra water changes and cut back the coral feeding to 7-10 days again. I want to do what's best for the corals for growth and color but don't want to stress them out or add something I don't need. Any additional thoughts would be appreciated. |
06/06/2012, 06:46 AM | #10 |
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I have had great results with my GFO reactor. However, people tend to think they need to replace the media way too often. I have a very controlled tank so I test my P04 levels once a month with a Hanna Check Meter. Always at 0. I use a small amount due to the media being in the reactor so long, the sponges tend to get clogged over 3 months or so. If you continuously read 0 after GFO implementation, you would only need to change out the media when either your sponges get clogged like my situation or when you are reading higher numbers than what was originally provided right after implimentation. The Hanna Mete will really save you money on your GFO media expenses.
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06/06/2012, 08:09 AM | #11 |
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Thanks BobbyV, that's good advice. Guess I'm going to buy a Hanna Checker first.
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06/06/2012, 12:02 PM | #12 |
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I'm running gfo 24/7 on my 300 gallon system and I don't really see any benefits with it besides a slight drop in P04 according to Hanna Checker
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06/06/2012, 11:20 PM | #13 |
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Thanks smartandfast. Why did you add it? What results were you looking for? How long have you been running it?
If I understand correctly. Aside from preventing toxic levels of phosphate, reducing phosphate can improve coral growth rates and improve color. Also suppose to suppress unwanted nuisance algae. |
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