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Old 11/20/2005, 12:54 PM   #76
Superorb
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i think i understand what he's saying. you reduce the skimming capability when you use deeper slots and less of them. one solid "waterfall" type could be long and cover more area of the surface of the water, skimming more of the surface. with the slots, you get the surface and also under the surface. i assume that skimming only the surface is more efficient.


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Old 11/20/2005, 12:59 PM   #77
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Ahh, that would make sense - though in my tank, I have so much flow on/near the surface I doubt there is an increased amount of organics on the surface versus just below the surface. Certainly worth keeping in mind.

I've got 8mm bits (for the slots) and a 45mm bit for the overflow drains coming - I'm hoping to do the drilling in the next week or two. I am thinking of adding some holes to the back of the tank as well for a possible closed loop. How many holes can I have without affecting tank integrity? These would be 45mm holes for a 1" bulkhead, and keep in mind the back of the tank will also have the slots at the top of the tank (which I dont think should affect integrity much).

Thanks,

Bob
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Old 11/20/2005, 01:26 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally posted by BraenDead
I'm certainly not trying to be argumentative, but I do not see why slots/teeth in an overflow diminish skimming ability? If I id not have teeth, and have a 12" wide opening for the water to flow, this would be the same as having a 1/2" opening every inch for 24 inches. Exact same area for water to flow, only the teeth will keep my fish (my wrasse and hawkfish are jumpers) out and keep snails, etc out. Fishing my wrasse out of my overflow really is not a fun task!

I would certainly be interested to hear more about this.

Bob
Yeah! What he said.


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Old 11/20/2005, 05:49 PM   #79
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i've got 3 holes in the back of my tank for a closed loop. two for 3/4" bulkheads and one for a 1" bh. plus the usual 2 in the bottom for the overflow. i think they need to be like a radius of like a few inches to be on the safe side. i don't recall the exact amount, just dont stick them close together is all.


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Old 11/20/2005, 09:23 PM   #80
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let's see no slots snails in the pluming = water in the floor = a bad day.
slots in tank no sanils in the pluming = no worries.

everyone i know that has done an open slot all ways finds water in the floor.
i have so much flow in my tank that there is no worries of scum on top of my water, but everyones tank is diferent.


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Old 11/20/2005, 09:25 PM   #81
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there are ways to prevent snails in the overflow. eggcrate comes to mind. my tank has the built in AGA overflow, so it has the slots on the bottom and the top. im going to have a lot of flow as well, so i'm not too worried about surface scum either. the concept makes sense though.


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Old 11/20/2005, 10:13 PM   #82
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yes it does but to say it's the most useless "fads" or "trends"
my friend had a copperband fish go though the slot & get caugh on the durso.


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Old 11/20/2005, 10:16 PM   #83
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oh, i didn't say anyhting about fads or trends. im still a newb so i dunno anyhting about any fads or trends just yet


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Old 11/20/2005, 10:19 PM   #84
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i know u dint im just referring to the post on the previous page


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Old 11/20/2005, 10:21 PM   #85
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ahh, my mistake.


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Old 11/30/2005, 04:13 PM   #86
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One more vote for the glass drills from Ebay seller lau++. I got them pretty quick (for Hong Kong) and used them to quickly put two 45mm holes into my new DIY 20G sump. It was very easy, after a little practice. I recommend that the inexperienced (like me) drill a couple of test holes in an old 10G or some scrap glass. I was managed to crack out a couple of holes before I realized I was leaning on the drill. From then on (supporting the drill) it was easy.
I used plumber's putty to hold some water around the site, and clamped a piece of scrap wood to the tank to catch the cut-out. Beautiful!


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Old 11/30/2005, 04:29 PM   #87
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one thing i noticed, is that the bits are NOT true!! all mine were wobbly on 3 different drills. 2 cordless and one corded. he sent me replacements and one was wobbly and the other was OK, but not true by any means. i guess for 3 bux apiece what can you expect?


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Old 11/30/2005, 04:58 PM   #88
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Gee, mine were fine.


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Old 11/30/2005, 05:11 PM   #89
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I recently bought from Ebay seller lau++, however, I did my purchase directly with him. I wanted a combination of sizes and quantities that made it easier than dealing with ebay. By going directly through him, I saved about $12, which doesn't sound like a lot but was a big % of the total sale. He shipped them immediately and I received them quickly with no problems. I have yet to use them as the tank I want to drill is outside and the temp has dropped. If we get another few days of 50 deg weather, I'll do the drilling.
I highly recommend this seller, and likewise recommend direct sale. Contact Teddy via em: lautszyan0 AT netvigator DOT com
HTH, Bill.


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Old 11/30/2005, 08:42 PM   #90
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hmm, i cant remember what the guys name was, but i got mine from his websitel he was also an ebay seller. i know the things came from china, i think hong kong actually. guess i got a bunch of bad ones then. i have three different sizes i think.


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Old 12/01/2005, 06:10 PM   #91
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The diamond coated hole saws I got all spun true and I had very little problems cutting holes in my tanks and sump. I am glad people are still finding this thread useful.


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Old 12/01/2005, 08:09 PM   #92
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I just ordered from lau++. Looking forward to giving this a shot.


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Old 12/01/2005, 08:09 PM   #93
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I just ordered from lau++. Looking forward to giving this a shot.


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Old 12/02/2005, 06:42 AM   #94
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let us know if the blades are straight or not.


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Old 12/02/2005, 03:40 PM   #95
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You do want to make sure the holes are true and round with no imperfections. Any little chip or out of round adds lots of stress. When water is added the pressure is pulling the hole apart as the glass flexes out and round is better to distribute. Otherwise you might end up with your tank on the living room floor one morning. And of course the least number of holes per side is better. There seemed to be a few threads on tanks cracking over time and speading from the drilled holes. Just my thoughts.


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Old 12/02/2005, 05:00 PM   #96
Superorb
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hmm, not what i wanted to hear... i've got 3 holes in mine. they all look fine, one has a small "clamshell" as they call them in the biz. hope it's not a problem..


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Old 12/02/2005, 06:47 PM   #97
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If chips are had, what about using the epoxy that glass companies use to fill dings on windshields? Not sure if this would help or not, but I doubt it would hurt? As long as the spot has compressional pressure from the bulkhead, I would think this would help keep it as strong.

Just a thought...

Bob


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Old 12/02/2005, 07:53 PM   #98
Superorb
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huh.. didn't think of that. supposedly that epoxy makes it "good as new" like they say. now, we all know that the only thing as good as new IS new. might be worth a shot though.


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Old 12/03/2005, 12:13 AM   #99
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Just ordered my 3/4" holesaw. Building a 10g nano and want some nice drains and closed loop on it. These will work perfect. Thanks for the information JustOneMoreTank.


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Old 12/03/2005, 09:29 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stasher
Just ordered my 3/4" holesaw. Building a 10g nano and want some nice drains and closed loop on it. These will work perfect. Thanks for the information JustOneMoreTank.
Hey no problem Stasher.

I have 4 holes that I cut into the back glass of my 120g tank. I am really not worried in the least about the tank having problems. Ohh yes by the way... the tank came with 4 holes drilled in the bottom of the tank and All-Glass isn't worried about it either.


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