Zachtos 300G SPS reef build (Wisconsin)

[McPuff]

Following along intently as I'm building the same tank now. I won't have the frag system but otherwise we're pretty similar.

For the ATS, you might just consider growing some chaeto and adding a marine pure block or two. I think the combo there works quite well actually. For my system, I'll have a 60 gal sump to house the heaters, skimmer (Reef Dynamics INS300), and return pump (dct 15000 which will have manifold). Return will feed the display and a remote fuge/dsb to be placed above the sump in a 75 gal rubbermaid. I may also move the marine pure blocks up there and add whatever leftover liverock I have.

I still need to devise a water change system and I like what you've created. I think two 50 gal barrels is probably the minimum... I may even try to get a 100 gal for the RODI reservoir. For my ATO, I use a 7 gal container with a float switch... then connected directly to RODI reservoir. Reduces the need for a large ATO reservoir and works very well.

Anyway, great build so far!!

[JoeTSI]

I noticed what I appear to be firearms on the wall in your family room. Any info on those?

Great build and some serious DIY skills.

[zachtos]

Originally Posted by McPuff

... I won't have the frag system but otherwise we're pretty similar.

For the ATS, you might just consider growing some chaeto and adding a marine pure block or two.

I would suggest planning for a frag tank pre-plumb at least. I had none last tank, and left a TON of money sitting on table, as people would visit all the time wanting to buy stuff and taking too long to cut then and there. Plus a great way to backup your system in a way, or be able to quickly get ready for a frag swap (trades or exhibit) without having fresh vulnerable frags.

Yeah, not super happy with how I setup my ATO, but whatever you do make redundancy so if a switch fails you don't flood anything, but 7 gallons is low risk if that is max you ever drop assuming it's not auto filled, then it is 75 gallon/day if stuck. I have parallel switches and 50 gallon max that could ever dump (not auto refilled). Though am vulnerable to a maxijet failing, we shall see.

For the ATS, I am leaving the center of the sump pretty open, so if I change my mind, I can try anything. For now will try heavy lighted growing algae and see how it goes. Seems like a good supplement to a skimmer (remove nutrient skimmer misses). Though sounds like ATS can be a pain to clean each week. I don't mind a bit of maintenance every weekend, but daily maintenance is a problem for me.

[zachtos]

Originally Posted by JoeTSI

I noticed what I appear to be firearms on the wall in your family room. Any info on those?

Great build and some serious DIY skills.

http://lasertagpro.com/the-brx/ - I design laser tag equipment for a living. Those are some of my personal collection from the past. We are actually making a high end laser tag gun that is for the consumer, connects to your phone, download games etc. It's a high end outdoor sport like airsoft/paintball, not a cheap toy. Loud powerful speaker, 600 feet range, simulated explosives on an on I can go.

https://www.facebook.com/ircombat1/photos - some photos of my old gear in action

video of IR combat

[CrazyDiamond]

Nice build u have going - This tank is gonna be great !

[skanderson]

enjoying watching another Wisconsin build. also think the new laser tag gear looks like a cool training item for small group tactics training. it would be more realistic than paintball and a lot neater.

[McPuff]

Originally Posted by zachtos

I would suggest planning for a frag tank pre-plumb at least. I had none last tank, and left a TON of money sitting on table, as people would visit all the time wanting to buy stuff and taking too long to cut then and there. Plus a great way to backup your system in a way, or be able to quickly get ready for a frag swap (trades or exhibit) without having fresh vulnerable frags.

I'll be doing minimal SPS actually. I sold off almost all of my colonies in my current 120 and am keeping just about 6-8 colonies. These are relatively easy to keep and will get huge... and that is really my goal. If I do sell frags, they'll be more like small colonies. It shouldn't be necessary very often.

[zachtos]

Full tank shot to date. I know I am not the most creative with aquascaping, but the background kicks ***. The rocks are mostly just 3 mounds with some shelves. There are plenty of flat surfaces for SPS colonies to take off, and I have several areas where I want montipora caps for some shelf overhangs. Maybe some encrusters on the lower portions. I really want green star polyps again, but it's hard to keep them isolated, they look amazing with wavemaker though.


Side tank view, fish can swim around the entire perimeter of the rock, glass and back wall with around 4-6" clearances.


Right side (2 wavemakers shown, they get a pretty good double wave going, 1 tunze was not enough)
A petri dish of established ruble rock with critters shown in the bottom corner.


Center pile.


Left side.





Frag tank transferred and lighting setup. Small MP10 vortech for extra flow in the frag tank. For now this houses 2 ocelaris clown fish and about 9-10 rose bubble tip anemones. I plan to sell those all off. The top shelf I may use for general storage, a future small tank w/ shared sump, or just a quarantine for frags.


Quarantine tank moved from the shelf and setup. I put excess live rock in there for now, and the small skimmer. I need to do research on how to quarantine, thread suggestions welcome.


I quieted the turf scrubber down by installing a bypass T for the excess flow. I am not sure if I am getting exactly 35gph/inch though, but I suppose I could cut the slot a bit bigger if I need more. I think it's about 1/8", but it's pure gravity feed at this point. The T is required, or it siphons, as mentioned, and no flow goes to the scrubber. I do hear a constant gurgle in the pipe though, not that loud though.

I ordered turf scrubber LEDs yesterday (11"x19" screen 2X sided), planning a 6x20" heatsink w/ T slots, and 42 LED per side (84 total), 72 - 660nm LED and 12 - 410-420nm LED. No lenses, will try to just keep as close as possible. Will be using dimming functions. My bioload will start at 2 cubes/day and slowly ramp up to 15+ cubes/day over the next 2 years as fish are added/grow.



The drain system I am using, in both corner, using a durso standpipe for excess flow, and nearly full siphon for main flow, so basically a herbie without a valve. I just twist the coupling to lower the flow using holes I drilled. Works fine, seems reliable. I raised them up more to keep the sump from overflowing when power out.

//I need a new deepcycle battery, the old one apparently is dead/ruined, won't hold charge. Quiet drives for vortechs on the way. I also ordered parts for ATS LED x2, QT LED x1 and 6x corona fixtures from RapidLED. I need to perform research about how to quarantine coral and fish properly next, then research/decide on fish in budget. At least tank is cycling and the fish room is cleaned up nice.

[zachtos]

OK, this is only cool for engineers. Basically a simple code I wrote, with a cluser of relays. It's a feed timer. Push the button, tank stops moving so much water, so food stays in the tank. Then it turns it back on later when done. Why is this special?
-1 button will turn off many devices, and reboot, while lowering flow on others
-it will auto turn back on after 12 minutes
-it shuts off skimmer for longer period of time so it doesn't overflow tank when skimmer comes back online with too high of level still in the sump, so I can have skimmer in non compartmentalized area.
-it also has a timer that when goes off, will toggle feeder A or feeder B (pellets or Nori) automatically, as many times as I want.

*press button
-turn off skimmer
-enable feed mode on vortechs, tunzes and return pumps (6 devices)
-end of 10 minute feed modes devices back on
-+2 minutes at end of feed, skimmer turns back on
-press button to cancel feed mode operation

*digital timer input turn on
-same as a button press
-30 seconds after shutdown, turn on auto feeder A 6 seconds
-on opposite cycles toggle auto feeder A or B (such as pellets, flakes or nori)

Of course I can do more with this, but I have no plans at the moment. Simple to feed, and keeps system safe and automatic while I'm away from home.

[McPuff]

Have you been getting any warnings about your tank failing? It's got me a bit nervous but for hopefully no reason. The tank I bought was filled for about 18 months with no issues. And I see NO mistakes in the seams. I'll still be using the ALD module for apex though. :0)

[zachtos]

Originally Posted by McPuff

Have you been getting any warnings about your tank failing? It's got me a bit nervous but for hopefully no reason. The tank I bought was filled for about 18 months with no issues. And I see NO mistakes in the seams. I'll still be using the ALD module for apex though. :0)

I have read a bit about failures of marineland deep dimension tanks, but they are popular tanks, so that does not really mean a lot. I don't see any bow in my front panel nor my stand. I built it to the DIY stand calculator thread's recommendation, works great. If the tank were to fail, I would lose the DIY background, which was a lot of work, aside from whatever else I could lose. Let's hope they are built tough. I think mine is a few years old from someone else already.

[McPuff]

Originally Posted by zachtos

I have read a bit about failures of marineland deep dimension tanks, but they are popular tanks, so that does not really mean a lot. I don't see any bow in my front panel nor my stand. I built it to the DIY stand calculator thread's recommendation, works great. If the tank were to fail, I would lose the DIY background, which was a lot of work, aside from whatever else I could lose. Let's hope they are built tough. I think mine is a few years old from someone else already.

Well I like to hear other people's success stories... and the popularity is sure to be the reason for so many failure stories. But there are failures with all tank manufacturers. Still, it has me worries so I'm doing everything I can to make sure this stand (which has already held the tank for over 18 mo) will not be the source of any issues. I really like how your tank is coming along!

[zachtos]

So over the last few weeks I've been working on minor things. The build phase is coming to an end soon, then on to small projects and livestock. Coral probably won't be until I find a worthy frag swap in Michigan this coming January (4-5 months yet).

I installed the quiet drive motors for the vortechs and connected them to the push button feeder. They are dead silent, worthy of an upgrade PCB.

Ordered all of my test kits and chemicals for quarantine. (photo pending)







I setup 3 quarantine tanks (40G, 20G, 10G) (photos pending). Each has live rock to help them cycle. Sponge filters and temperature controllers for them are in the mail. Probably still 2 weeks until I start buying fish anyways. I also have 3 auto feeders in the mail, and some other secret projects pending.









Built the algae turf scrubber LED fixtures, very bright, extremely high PAR readings and good coverage at short range. I still have to figure out how to hang them under the tank.

The LED fixtures for the display are still on backorder, maybe another week, then I hang those and post photos and PAR readings.

Decided on a fish stock list based on feedback from another thread I made.
Final Order List

• REGAL angel x 2 (mate pair)
• powder blue tang x 1
• Hippo Tang x 1
• pyramid butterfly x 4
• coral beauty dwarf x 3-4 (harem)
• Lyratail Anthias x 6
• royal grammas x 6+
• Harlequin Tusk Wrasse x 1
• Exquisitte Fairy Wrasse x 1
• Solar/Red Head Solomon Fairy Wrasse x 1
• Fine Spotted Fairy Wrasse x 1
• Pink Margin Wrasse x 1
• Blue Head Wrasse x 1
• Perculla Clown x 2 (I own 2 of these now with 9 RBTA)
• Clown Goby x 2 (in a year)
• Mandarin Dragonette x 2 (in a year)
• cleaner goby x 2 (in 6 months)

Maybe in a 6-12 months based on how it goes:

• +anemone (bubble tip or Magnifica or gigantea)
• +kole tang and/or convict tang
  
• +anthias (dispar, bartlett)
• or
• +1-2 flame or cherub or potter dwarf angels (no more than 2 each)

[fishguy306]

Very cool build so far! I love all of your planning and thought put into everything.

Any chance at seeing a bit more of how you plumbed the heating coils to the hot water heater? I want to do the same with my system and I'm trying to get an idea of how different people have done it. Most I've seen have the water returned through the drain in the bottom but yours appears to exit the HWH there? Do you return it into the cold water line?

[zachtos]

Originally Posted by fishguy306

Very cool build so far! I love all of your planning and thought put into everything.

Any chance at seeing a bit more of how you plumbed the heating coils to the hot water heater? I want to do the same with my system and I'm trying to get an idea of how different people have done it. Most I've seen have the water returned through the drain in the bottom but yours appears to exit the HWH there? Do you return it into the cold water line?

try this link for heater info from a past thread when I did this on my last tank.

I pull from the bottom valve and return to the top of the hot water to the house. It does cause a problem if you are in the shower and it kicks on, temperature will change a bit (not ice cold but warm then hot). I can reverse the direction of the pump, but I can't recall if that really fixed the problem or not honestly. I can't remember what direction is correct, but it's a closed loop, so not sure it matters.

[fishguy306]

Thanks for the details! I'll take a look at your other thread tonight. I'm curious if the heat issue for the rest of the house would be better if it returned to the cold or into the bottom. Honestly I don't know enough about hot water heaters to know. That said my system will have a controller watching temps, would it be as simple as just telling it not to run between certain times? Anyway thanks for the info!

[zachtos]

Originally Posted by fishguy306

Thanks for the details! I'll take a look at your other thread tonight. I'm curious if the heat issue for the rest of the house would be better if it returned to the cold or into the bottom. Honestly I don't know enough about hot water heaters to know. That said my system will have a controller watching temps, would it be as simple as just telling it not to run between certain times? Anyway thanks for the info!

Yes, you could put a wall timer on the pump if you want to block access during morning shower, should not be much drop in temperature for a few hours a day denial. Could even make electric take place if you wanted, but eliminates the purpose for me, keeping EL load down.

[saf1]

Originally Posted by skanderson

enjoying watching another Wisconsin build. also think the new laser tag gear looks like a cool training item for small group tactics training. it would be more realistic than paintball and a lot neater.

Oddly enough lasers while fine do not have noise nor does it have an impact. Not like a slug to a vest but it is something that you will still feel which could distract. Not a fan. Sort of like that gas mask test, right? Oder passing under vs. actual tear gas or pepper spray.

Regardless, looks great

[fishguy306]

Originally Posted by zachtos

Yes, you could put a wall timer on the pump if you want to block access during morning shower, should not be much drop in temperature for a few hours a day denial. Could even make electric take place if you wanted, but eliminates the purpose for me, keeping EL load down.

That is my thought as well. I've got a couple of massive heaters for the system I'm setting up but for the cost to run them I'm thinking gas as well. For the couple hours a day it wouldn't run I'm not worried about my volume dropping too much. Anyway, thanks again! I don't want to derail your post too much lol

[jduck]

You know I have a tank of corals for you to pick from when your ready.

Did you put a selnoid valve on your hot water loop?

[zachtos]

Originally Posted by jduck

You know I have a tank of corals for you to pick from when your ready.

Did you put a selnoid valve on your hot water loop?

No solenoid valve again, it works pretty good, heated my water change unheated water to 80F in 20 minutes.

I will definitely take you up on the coral offer. I am not impressed with the upcoming swaps in WI yet compared to MI. I am seeking out some of my old 'must have' corals again:

1. Palmer Blue Millipora
2. ORA red planet
3. Peach/Green millipora
4. rose milli
5. ORA blue millipora
6. Red/Green/Purple montipora
7. Pink lemonade
8. yellow humilis

I could trade you back 9 rose bubble tips if you wish to try and sell them, otherwise I can try my LFS. Not sure if I can find a safe way to keep anemone in the SPS tank honestly, high flow, barebottom, super high light, but the wave maker is nice.

I am also debating what type of coral for the bottom of the bare HDPE tank. Maybe a green star polyp carpet would be funny with the wave maker, but not sure it would grow flat. Otherwise I loved the Copps reef ricordia carpet. I can't have zoas and most LPS because of angels. Avoiding mushrooms like plague this time (not that hairy green shrooms were ever on purpose).

[zachtos]

decided my tunze wavemakers were ugly, now they are pretty.


Yes, lights are on, forgot to take a good front photo. The phone camera is crap for this light, need to get out my SLR for this heavy blue LED, it does not look that blue at all! You can see I covered my wavemakers in foam/rock.


Side view, you can see the rock covered wavemakers.


This is how I hung my lights, thought it was worth a share. Layed plastic wrap right on the water, like a water bed. Then made cardboard cut outs of the lights with markings for the mount screw to ceiling. Then I shuffled the lights around until happy with the layout. Then hung a screw from fishing line and marked the dot on the ceiling for each spot. Was very easy and fast. No re-drilling or rails to make adjustments needed.


Rapid LED Corona lights are up. I got lazy and gave up on a rail system after I saw the lights, so small, not really a need to move them out of way, so I just tossed up another piece of drywall/paint and some anchors. Did have to RMA one light, and had a problem logging in, but good enough, and half the price of other units. WAY WAY better than DIY, what a pain in the *** after I soldered 2 RED LED together, not worth the extra savings (only would have saved $300-$400 DIY total on 240qty LEDs, but no warranty, no app, no resale, and ugly wires).

I did eary measurements of PAR (was VERY high, like 150 on sandbed, and 400 to 900 PAR on rockwork on mid/back wall). I should spend time lifting the lights to spread better, and maybe angle them a bit toward the front bottom. I don't want any light on the front glass if I can avoid (algae), one of the benefits of directional LED.


Electrical shown for the ATS, coated the PCB with silicone conformal coating

[zachtos]

Turf scrubber hung up.


Algae turf scrubber 3 day growth. Fallow tank, just rotting meat and anemones in the frag tank.


Test kits. I also am very glad I bought a new salinity refractometer with calibration fluid. I was WAY off on the old meter that had a rusted calibration screw (5ppt too low!) KH salifert kit got wet so no box, I like the API kit, but not sure if I will trust it this time w/ 3 part dosing.


Extra water filter RO/DI parts


Auto feeder and timer parts


QT tank light, was going to use if I need to QT any corals, but maybe just try bayer dip if it is safe, still pending research there. Corals are a few months out anyways.

[McPuff]

I'll be interested to see how you like those Coronas... I've got the onyx and will transfer those over to my 300 (which I finally started to fill with RODI last night!!!). Having done some DIY LEDs myself, I think you made the right choice by buying a pre-built solution. It's worth it for the time savings and warranty (not to mentioned aesthetics!). Also great idea on the wave box covers! Looking really good!

[zachtos]

Originally Posted by McPuff

I'll be interested to see how you like those Coronas... I've got the onyx ..!

Onyx DIY kit looks similar the kit I used for my turf scrubber, but with lenses. I would dread building 6 of those fixtures by hand. Maybe a 3 would be tolerable, but such a wire bundle mess. I need to get access to wire harness connectors, or they should sell them.