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Unread 01/28/2015, 04:27 PM   #701
Montireef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squidmotron View Post
How long ago was this?

Lights out really works. For awhile.

I still contend they go away after some time.
I insist: depends on the dinoflagellate species.

Ostreopsis is not of that kind


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Unread 01/28/2015, 04:39 PM   #702
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ok so listen.... I JUST beat this stuff..... I've been having issues with it for a 3 months in my 200 gallon, i tore down my 90 gallon because of it in the past... i've done black out, no water changes, THE BEST HUSBANDRY, Hydrogen peroxide, etc..... I know i had dino because I confirmed it with a microscope.

a sure way that finally worked for me was this:
I cleaned out as much as i could as possible everyday... didn't do a water change for a month...

then one day i completely cleaned the tank the best i could with turkey basting, netting, etc. i cut the lights and covered my sps tank for 5 solid days. and i dosed FAUNA MARIN ULTRA ALGAE X EXCACTLY... i'm going to say EXACTLY one more time, as the manual describes. after 5 days all the algae was either gone or dead white. i kept dosing ultra algae x for a week after this stuff. it hasn't come back yet but i haven't done a water change either so you never know. i may still be in the boat. but there's literally no signs of it... i dosed after there were no signs as well. i just stopped 4 days ago. so the tank has been clean for 2 weeks
dude, 2 weeks is nothing...i was able to get by 2 weeks every time with a 3-5 day blackout...but they come back...so say you've beaten this stuff after you've been dino free for 6-12 months or more, not 2 weeks

i haven't seen a sign of dinos in 2 months...but i'm still skeptical every day i look into my tank...i inspect everything and every algae and every bubble i see i still get worried...


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Unread 01/28/2015, 05:55 PM   #703
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I wish I had the time to do this to my tank. Full time student by night (MBA), stay at home dad by morning and early afternoon, part time work, and several other tanks, pets, wife, house duties.

I wish there was an easier solution!
Sounds like your lack of time would be perfect for Montireef's approach of dealing with this.

Dennis


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Unread 01/28/2015, 06:24 PM   #704
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Sounds like your lack of time would be perfect for Montireef's approach of dealing with this.

Dennis
Perhaps so


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Unread 01/28/2015, 06:50 PM   #705
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Neglect is the answer?


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Unread 01/28/2015, 07:00 PM   #706
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Originally Posted by 3FordFamily View Post
1) I don't have time to sleep, let alone take apart an entire tank and **** off the inhabitants. Literally, I eat in to my sleep time for my daddy daycare time, work, and full time graduate school. Not enough hours in the day. On weekends, I am on full-time baby duty because the wife works. Have you tried to take apart a tank with a 10 month old?

2) I can dose every day no issue.
Then this hobby is not for you I'm afraid. If you can't do what's needed to fix the problem when its in your face then you'll never fix it. You have time to message the forum you have time to fix your tank. What you need to do had been given to you and there really isn't any other way. In the manual it says to do what i told you... It says dosing alone won't work.. Sooo... good luck


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Unread 01/28/2015, 08:37 PM   #707
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Then this hobby is not for you I'm afraid. If you can't do what's needed to fix the problem when its in your face then you'll never fix it. You have time to message the forum you have time to fix your tank. What you need to do had been given to you and there really isn't any other way. In the manual it says to do what i told you... It says dosing alone won't work.. Sooo... good luck
Seeing as how there is no true or generalized "fix" across the board at this time, I'd have to respectfully disagree. For many people, all the extra blood, sweat and tears yield fruitless results and, in some cases, make matters worse.


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Unread 01/28/2015, 08:39 PM   #708
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Originally Posted by Amphiprion View Post
Seeing as how there is no true or generalized "fix" across the board at this time, I'd have to respectfully disagree. For many people, all the extra blood, sweat and tears yield fruitless results and, in some cases, make matters worse.
I don't know what to tell you then? I wish I could just pickns cure that convienienced me and that meant it would work


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Unread 01/28/2015, 08:43 PM   #709
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I don't know what to tell you then? I wish I could just pickns cure that convienienced me and that meant it would work
No worries, it was a partial vent of frustration . Your method may well work for some people in some cases. For those dedicated enough, it is certainly worth a shot.


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Unread 01/28/2015, 09:00 PM   #710
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This is probably answered somewhere in this thread, but why shouldn't I do water changes when dealing with dinoflagellates?


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Unread 01/28/2015, 09:01 PM   #711
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This is probably answered somewhere in this thread, but why shouldn't I do water changes when dealing with dinoflagellates?
It eats the trace elements in the water column and ive read that nitrates effect its growth


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Unread 01/28/2015, 10:11 PM   #712
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I agree that the trace elements in the fresh saltwater might feed dinoflagellates. I'd probably keep up the changes unless there was a visible bloom after them, or the bloom had been going on for a while.


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Unread 01/28/2015, 10:51 PM   #713
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I see it differently. Water changes remove built up nutrients that the competing organisms need to reclaim the ground gained by the dinos. You need some nutrients to fuel the algae that normally occupy the food hiearchy that dinos fill in an artificial system.

At least for me, that's the core logic here. It's why reintroducing skimmer effluent could work (imo).


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Unread 01/29/2015, 01:00 AM   #714
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I fully agree karimwassef

One more time:
What species of dinoflagellate are you fighting???
Nobody tells. The first step is identification, what works for prorocentrum and amphidinium (common dinos in our hobby) may not work for ostreopsis, gambierdiscus...


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Unread 01/29/2015, 07:01 AM   #715
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Originally Posted by Montireef View Post
I fully agree karimwassef

One more time:
What species of dinoflagellate are you fighting???
Nobody tells. The first step is identification, what works for prorocentrum and amphidinium (common dinos in our hobby) may not work for ostreopsis, gambierdiscus...
I've battled both ostreopsis and gambierdiscus. I never found anything that could beat gambierdiscus (UV, low nutrients, Ultra Algae X, lights out, peroxide, diatom filtration, etc.). I had to break down the tank. Unfortunately, after restarting, I developed an ostreopsis bloom. As several others have reported, ostreopsis can be beaten by nutrients. Grow turf algae at all costs (not chaeto or macro algae - they were just hosting more dinos)! Why skim if you are just pouring it back in? I removed the skimmer all together and did my best to grow algae wherever I could. I made a simple upflow algae screen and later a down flow version. As algae starts to grow on the screen, dinos eventually disappear in the tank. I removed my skimmer last June and have been dino free since August.


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Unread 01/29/2015, 09:24 AM   #716
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Originally Posted by Montireef View Post
I fully agree karimwassef

One more time:
What species of dinoflagellate are you fighting???
Nobody tells. The first step is identification, what works for prorocentrum and amphidinium (common dinos in our hobby) may not work for ostreopsis, gambierdiscus...

Is there a thread that I can reference to determine which type I have?


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Unread 01/29/2015, 09:26 AM   #717
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What is the best way to treat an SPS coral that has dino growing on it? I noticed bubbles forming on it. Should I do a freshwater dip, peroxide dip, or treat it in place with peroxide?


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Unread 01/29/2015, 10:25 AM   #718
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What is the best way to treat an SPS coral that has dino growing on it? I noticed bubbles forming on it. Should I do a freshwater dip, peroxide dip, or treat it in place with peroxide?
Freshwater will instantly kill your sps and it'll just come back. Blow it off with a turkey baster


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Unread 01/29/2015, 11:10 AM   #719
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I'd say vacuum it of with a turkey baster.


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Unread 01/29/2015, 01:06 PM   #720
dartier
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Is there a thread that I can reference to determine which type I have?
You can find examples of what they look like in this thread. The user Pants can also help you id them if you post a photo of the dinofalgellate. You do need a microscope to both see the actual dino and a somewwhat more capable microscope to get a photo that can assist with an identifcation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fronty View Post
What is the best way to treat an SPS coral that has dino growing on it? I noticed bubbles forming on it. Should I do a freshwater dip, peroxide dip, or treat it in place with peroxide?
Bubbles can be sign of cyano or dinos, so their presence does not always mean dinos. As others have suggested, a turkey baster is a good way of blowing off the frag that does not harm the frag.

Dennis


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Unread 01/29/2015, 04:12 PM   #721
Montireef
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Originally Posted by yeldarbj View Post
I've battled both ostreopsis and gambierdiscus. I never found anything that could beat gambierdiscus (UV, low nutrients, Ultra Algae X, lights out, peroxide, diatom filtration, etc.). I had to break down the tank. Unfortunately, after restarting, I developed an ostreopsis bloom. As several others have reported, ostreopsis can be beaten by nutrients. Grow turf algae at all costs (not chaeto or macro algae - they were just hosting more dinos)! Why skim if you are just pouring it back in? I removed the skimmer all together and did my best to grow algae wherever I could. I made a simple upflow algae screen and later a down flow version. As algae starts to grow on the screen, dinos eventually disappear in the tank. I removed my skimmer last June and have been dino free since August.
I respectfully disagree. Ostreopsis cannot be beaten by nutrients reduction before killing your corals. My nutrient level is as low as 0,0, acroporas are really pale whitish starving to death and despite the aquarium sits in the sunlight I get no algae at all, neither on the glass walls or the botton. Nutrients are so low I can't run an ATS. Therefore I can't admit that they can be beaten with nutrient strip.

Anyhow, it's very interesting what you stated about the skimmer, I had a similar experience six weeks ago: I neglected one of my aquariums (no skimmer, no reactors, nothing but manual water replenishment) and it was the first to beat the ostreopsis bloom.


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Unread 01/29/2015, 04:17 PM   #722
Montireef
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Originally Posted by Zacktosterone View Post
Freshwater will instantly kill your sps and it'll just come back. Blow it off with a turkey baster
Nop....
I have dipped acros in fresh water many times; if you respect temp and pH they will stand a short 15" dip with no issues, time enough to get rid of any kind of dinoflagellate.

I wouldn't blow them with a turkey baster unless I ran an UV sterilizer. They would spread all around, just what they need to win the battle. Much better siphoning them out of the tank.


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Unread 01/29/2015, 04:19 PM   #723
Montireef
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Originally Posted by dartier View Post
You can find examples of what they look like in this thread. The user Pants can also help you id them if you post a photo of the dinofalgellate. You do need a microscope to both see the actual dino and a somewwhat more capable microscope to get a photo that can assist with an identifcation.



Bubbles can be sign of cyano or dinos, so their presence does not always mean dinos. As others have suggested, a turkey baster is a good way of blowing off the frag that does not harm the frag.

Dennis
In fact bubbles can be sign of many things, not just dinos or ciano. It can be the result of any bacterial digestion for example.


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Unread 01/29/2015, 04:45 PM   #724
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Originally Posted by Montireef View Post
I respectfully disagree. Ostreopsis cannot be beaten by nutrients reduction before killing your corals. My nutrient level is as low as 0,0, acroporas are really pale whitish starving to death and despite the aquarium sits in the sunlight I get no algae at all, neither on the glass walls or the botton. Nutrients are so low I can't run an ATS. Therefore I can't admit that they can be beaten with nutrient strip.

Anyhow, it's very interesting what you stated about the skimmer, I had a similar experience six weeks ago: I neglected one of my aquariums (no skimmer, no reactors, nothing but manual water replenishment) and it was the first to beat the ostreopsis bloom.
I think you misunderstood what I wrote. I am saying that you have to increase nutrients to defeat ostreopsis, just what you found in the neglected aquarium. The ostreopsis and gambierdiscus thrive in a low nutrient environment. I was dosing nitrates, silicates, iron, iodine, aminos, etc and not using any type of filtration in order to get algae, diatoms, cyano or something to grow to outcompete the dinos. That's why I took my skimmer out.


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Unread 01/29/2015, 05:21 PM   #725
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Then I fully agree, LOL


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