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Unread 03/25/2015, 09:18 AM   #1
NOsushi4me
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Question on electrical outlets

So my father is helping me put in an electrical outlet where there is not one so I can place my new Elos in the desired location. My refrigerator is on this line as well .... I am not too handy and knowledgable on this stuff. My dad knows a good amount but we have been researching a lot! Anything I need to consider ???


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Unread 03/25/2015, 12:46 PM   #2
tkeracer619
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Not really as long as the capacity is there. I assume your pops knows what is up.


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Unread 03/25/2015, 02:17 PM   #3
NOsushi4me
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He's very handy so I'm hoping it goes smoothly


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Unread 03/25/2015, 02:20 PM   #4
acanlover
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Find out the total current draw on the fridge (should be labeled) and whatever else is on the line and then compare it to the breaker. As long as the total amount (including the new tank) does not exceed the breaker value, it will not trip.


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Unread 03/25/2015, 02:22 PM   #5
BuzzPion
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Is he installing a GFCI outlet?


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Unread 03/25/2015, 03:55 PM   #6
NOsushi4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acanlover View Post
Find out the total current draw on the fridge (should be labeled) and whatever else is on the line and then compare it to the breaker. As long as the total amount (including the new tank) does not exceed the breaker value, it will not trip.

Ok thank you!


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Unread 03/25/2015, 03:57 PM   #7
mcgyvr
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All submerged equipment must be protected by a GFCI device (outlet/breaker/power strip or whatever).. A fridge should not be protected by the GFCI though


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Unread 03/25/2015, 03:58 PM   #8
NOsushi4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzPion View Post
Is he installing a GFCI outlet?

I read about this before so I asked him if he could install a GFCI and his response was that it was already on and/or connected to a GFCI. Does that make sense? I am not good with electrical work so I appreciate the help.


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Unread 03/25/2015, 04:13 PM   #9
Reef Frog
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My opinion only:

Unless the tank is very small and requires minimum wattage, I would use a dedicated circuit only (sharing it with a few lamps or a radio, fan & such is fine). This way sensitibe DC equipment is not put in danger by voltage changes, there is a less of chance of the circuit tripping while you're away from home. With your current plan, there is also a chance the circuit would trip from a tank malfunction, and you refrigerator loses electricity causing spoiled food and warm beer. Just something to think about.


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Unread 03/25/2015, 04:41 PM   #10
Paul B
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The refrigerator is most likely on a dedicated circuit because in a kitchen there would be dedicated outlets. It may be on the same outlet as the one you use for a toaster so check that it is not on another kitchen outlet. That is easy to do. Turn off the refrigerator breaker and see if anything else goes dead. If not, go for it. Unless you are putting in a huge tank, it will be fine.
(Electrician 40 years, retired)


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Unread 03/25/2015, 05:22 PM   #11
joshbrookkate
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Ok, Paul. Not to hijack this thread but... Is a gfci surge protector as effective as a gfci outlet?


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Unread 03/25/2015, 06:35 PM   #12
Reef Frog
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I only have a 65 g but if everything is on all at once I have a theoretical 800-1000 watt draw I think. Plus a few lights I think I recall tripping a breaker when absent mindedly plugging in a 12 amp vacuum cleaner on the aquarium's 20 amp circuit.


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Unread 03/26/2015, 02:13 AM   #13
mmn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acanlover View Post
Find out the total current draw on the fridge (should be labeled) and whatever else is on the line and then compare it to the breaker. As long as the total amount (including the new tank) does not exceed the breaker value, it will not trip.
I believe the standard is total should not exceed 80% of the value of the breaker. Probably to cover startup surges and margin of error.

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Michael


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Unread 03/26/2015, 05:09 AM   #14
Paul B
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You only need a standard GFCI breaker or outlet. You can also use a surge protector but IMO not needd


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I used to get shocked when I put my hand in my tank. Then the electric eel went dead.

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Unread 03/26/2015, 05:18 AM   #15
mcgyvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshbrookkate View Post
Ok, Paul. Not to hijack this thread but... Is a gfci surge protector as effective as a gfci outlet?
Yes a GFCI surge protector is as effective as a GFCI outlet..


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Unread 03/26/2015, 05:26 AM   #16
Dmorty217
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New electrical code requires GFCI outlet with a GFCI breaker, this is a huge PITA and cost keeps going up. Unless your having a inspection done afterward I wouldn't worry about this. Depending on when your house was built it may or may not have a dedicated circuit for the fridge.


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Unread 03/26/2015, 09:18 AM   #17
joshbrookkate
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Thanks Paul B and mcgyvr. Peace of mind!


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Unread 04/01/2015, 09:17 AM   #18
NOsushi4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul B View Post
You only need a standard GFCI breaker or outlet. You can also use a surge protector but IMO not needd

I am starting tomorrow with pops - I will keep you posted


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Unread 04/03/2015, 01:53 PM   #19
NOsushi4me
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Finished product !




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Unread 04/03/2015, 10:48 PM   #20
skeeter_ca
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Wow, that's a fairly large tank(nice looking though) and it looks like it could end up pulling quite a few amps. Lights, pumps, skimmer, ato, heaters, chiller, powerheads, etc. Have you figured how much amperage it will pull with everything on. My 75gal has two dedicated 20amp circuits(which is overkill but I don't have to worry about it).


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Unread 04/05/2015, 10:26 AM   #21
sarens
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boy if you have any stack-up on initial surge/hard start you could trip the breaker, then you might have a fish tank and fridge double problem
-how hard would it be to pull a dedicated circuit, do you have room in your panel?


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Unread 04/05/2015, 10:35 AM   #22
skeeter_ca
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This definitely needs a dedicated circuit. Pulling a new line and adding it to the circuit box is pretty easy. If you don't have an open circuit in your panel you can always use slim breakers. Two fit in the same space as one.


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Unread 04/05/2015, 11:47 AM   #23
Icefire
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Seriously, dedicated line for a 110g or less? at 80% of a 15 amp break we are looking for a 1440w of available power

The biggest load are the heater (200w intermitent) and lights (160-500w).
Pumps/skimmer/reactor are less than 6-40 watts each. Start up surge are basicly inexistant.

You only have to make sure the total current draw on the line will be less than 12A and leave a bit more room since you'll be on the same line than a fridge.


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Unread 04/06/2015, 12:31 PM   #24
NOsushi4me
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Hey everyone I actually was wrong about one thing .... the tank is only on the same line as a hallway light and fluorescent kitchen light


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Unread 04/06/2015, 12:58 PM   #25
d2mini
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It's fine. Doesn't need a dedicated circuit. Not even close.

Always good to have that luxury, to have multiple circuits going to your tank so if one trips, the whole tank isn't down, just whatever equipment was plugged into that one circuit. But it's not necessary.


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