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03/25/2015, 09:18 AM | #1 |
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Question on electrical outlets
So my father is helping me put in an electrical outlet where there is not one so I can place my new Elos in the desired location. My refrigerator is on this line as well .... I am not too handy and knowledgable on this stuff. My dad knows a good amount but we have been researching a lot! Anything I need to consider ???
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03/25/2015, 12:46 PM | #2 |
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Not really as long as the capacity is there. I assume your pops knows what is up.
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Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. |
03/25/2015, 02:17 PM | #3 |
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He's very handy so I'm hoping it goes smoothly
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03/25/2015, 02:20 PM | #4 |
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Find out the total current draw on the fridge (should be labeled) and whatever else is on the line and then compare it to the breaker. As long as the total amount (including the new tank) does not exceed the breaker value, it will not trip.
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03/25/2015, 02:22 PM | #5 |
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Is he installing a GFCI outlet?
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03/25/2015, 03:55 PM | #6 |
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03/25/2015, 03:57 PM | #7 |
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All submerged equipment must be protected by a GFCI device (outlet/breaker/power strip or whatever).. A fridge should not be protected by the GFCI though
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03/25/2015, 03:58 PM | #8 |
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03/25/2015, 04:13 PM | #9 |
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My opinion only:
Unless the tank is very small and requires minimum wattage, I would use a dedicated circuit only (sharing it with a few lamps or a radio, fan & such is fine). This way sensitibe DC equipment is not put in danger by voltage changes, there is a less of chance of the circuit tripping while you're away from home. With your current plan, there is also a chance the circuit would trip from a tank malfunction, and you refrigerator loses electricity causing spoiled food and warm beer. Just something to think about. |
03/25/2015, 04:41 PM | #10 |
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The refrigerator is most likely on a dedicated circuit because in a kitchen there would be dedicated outlets. It may be on the same outlet as the one you use for a toaster so check that it is not on another kitchen outlet. That is easy to do. Turn off the refrigerator breaker and see if anything else goes dead. If not, go for it. Unless you are putting in a huge tank, it will be fine.
(Electrician 40 years, retired)
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I used to get shocked when I put my hand in my tank. Then the electric eel went dead. Current Tank Info: 100 gal reef set up in 1971 |
03/25/2015, 05:22 PM | #11 |
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Ok, Paul. Not to hijack this thread but... Is a gfci surge protector as effective as a gfci outlet?
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03/25/2015, 06:35 PM | #12 |
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I only have a 65 g but if everything is on all at once I have a theoretical 800-1000 watt draw I think. Plus a few lights I think I recall tripping a breaker when absent mindedly plugging in a 12 amp vacuum cleaner on the aquarium's 20 amp circuit.
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03/26/2015, 02:13 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Regards Michael
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Regards Michael 125g DT, Jebao DC9000, BA drain, 55g sump, Mixing: 2x32g Brutes, Panworld 30PX, 20l QT, RLSS R6I skimmer, 3 x Kessil A360WE, Neptune Apex. Current Tank Info: 2 clowns, 2 blue-green chromis, 2 Duncans and 2 GSPs |
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03/26/2015, 05:09 AM | #14 |
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You only need a standard GFCI breaker or outlet. You can also use a surge protector but IMO not needd
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I used to get shocked when I put my hand in my tank. Then the electric eel went dead. Current Tank Info: 100 gal reef set up in 1971 |
03/26/2015, 05:18 AM | #15 |
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03/26/2015, 05:26 AM | #16 |
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New electrical code requires GFCI outlet with a GFCI breaker, this is a huge PITA and cost keeps going up. Unless your having a inspection done afterward I wouldn't worry about this. Depending on when your house was built it may or may not have a dedicated circuit for the fridge.
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Fish are not disposable commodities, but a worthwhile investment that can be maintained and enjoyed for many years, providing one is willing to take the time to understand their requirements and needs Current Tank Info: 625g, 220g sump, RD3 230w, Vectra L1 on a closed loop, 3 MP60s, MP40. Several QTs |
03/26/2015, 09:18 AM | #17 |
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Thanks Paul B and mcgyvr. Peace of mind!
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04/01/2015, 09:17 AM | #18 |
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04/03/2015, 01:53 PM | #19 |
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Finished product !
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04/03/2015, 10:48 PM | #20 |
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Wow, that's a fairly large tank(nice looking though) and it looks like it could end up pulling quite a few amps. Lights, pumps, skimmer, ato, heaters, chiller, powerheads, etc. Have you figured how much amperage it will pull with everything on. My 75gal has two dedicated 20amp circuits(which is overkill but I don't have to worry about it).
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skeeter - It is easier to ask for forgiveness than premission. My motto to my wife. Current Tank Info: 75rr,6"dsb,refugium,auto top-off & semi-auto water changer, OM squirt. 4 MJs 1200, Started on 03/03/06 |
04/05/2015, 10:26 AM | #21 |
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boy if you have any stack-up on initial surge/hard start you could trip the breaker, then you might have a fish tank and fridge double problem
-how hard would it be to pull a dedicated circuit, do you have room in your panel?
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fish and "easy" corals for me, not in for the challenge but for for the calmness...is there such a thing? Current Tank Info: 11'6" long 330gal with 475 gallon system volume |
04/05/2015, 10:35 AM | #22 |
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This definitely needs a dedicated circuit. Pulling a new line and adding it to the circuit box is pretty easy. If you don't have an open circuit in your panel you can always use slim breakers. Two fit in the same space as one.
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skeeter - It is easier to ask for forgiveness than premission. My motto to my wife. Current Tank Info: 75rr,6"dsb,refugium,auto top-off & semi-auto water changer, OM squirt. 4 MJs 1200, Started on 03/03/06 |
04/05/2015, 11:47 AM | #23 |
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Seriously, dedicated line for a 110g or less? at 80% of a 15 amp break we are looking for a 1440w of available power
The biggest load are the heater (200w intermitent) and lights (160-500w). Pumps/skimmer/reactor are less than 6-40 watts each. Start up surge are basicly inexistant. You only have to make sure the total current draw on the line will be less than 12A and leave a bit more room since you'll be on the same line than a fridge.
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Temp 80F, PH 8.5-8.0, Alk 6.8-7.2, Ca 430, Mg 1700, NO3 0-0.25, PO4 0.04, 34.4 PPT Lights @ 100% all others, 35% White Current Tank Info: 60g Cube, 120lbs live rocks, Hydra52 2x120W, 2 MP40+ 1 MP10 @ 70%, Phosban 550 GFO+Carbon, 200W Heater, SWC Skimmer, Kalk ATO, 150 gpd RODI |
04/06/2015, 12:31 PM | #24 |
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Hey everyone I actually was wrong about one thing .... the tank is only on the same line as a hallway light and fluorescent kitchen light
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04/06/2015, 12:58 PM | #25 |
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It's fine. Doesn't need a dedicated circuit. Not even close.
Always good to have that luxury, to have multiple circuits going to your tank so if one trips, the whole tank isn't down, just whatever equipment was plugged into that one circuit. But it's not necessary.
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