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10/19/2016, 09:13 PM | #1 |
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Converting bottom drilled tank to Coast to Coast
Im thinking of buying a 180 that has 2 overflows. Is there any way to ues the holes that are already drilled for a Coast to Coast overflow? Or would i have to ripe out the old overflows and dril the back? assuming thats what i have to do how hard is it to remove the overflows?
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10/19/2016, 11:26 PM | #2 | |
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Taking out the overflows is also a lot of work, and then you end up with pipes running the height of the tank, exposed. Certainly, pulling out the overflows, plugging the holes, and going out the back would probably be the best option, but again it is a lot of work.
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"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef |
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10/20/2016, 07:41 AM | #3 |
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I'd keep the overflows and do 2 herbies like I did with almost the same setup. A coast to coast does not gain you much, if anything, in your setup since your two overflows wrap around creating more surface skimming area.
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125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
10/20/2016, 08:02 AM | #4 |
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The built-in overflows that you have DO take up a bunch of space and if the tank were empty I'd say remove the overflows, seal the holes, and drill the back for a custom overflow setup. Sounds like the tank is full though, so I'd say avoid doing anything other than maybe switching to a Herbie style drain system as suggested above.
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10/20/2016, 09:08 AM | #5 | |
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And to the peple that said said c2c dont help that much i thought they where amzzing things and helped a lot with skimming? My current tank only has 1 overflow and it always has a film in the corners. |
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10/20/2016, 12:18 PM | #6 | |
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The bridge idea is ok, but a LOT of work for very small gains, and now an additional homemade bridge between the two overflows to look at. Also you will eventually develop leaks where the silicon connects your bridge to the glass and probably also the plastic overflow weir. Make sure to account for that extra water in your flood mitigation planning. But I guess if you are bored why not?
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125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
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10/20/2016, 07:06 PM | #7 |
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No matter how u modify it there is going to be a good bit of work involved. I would eighther leave it how it is or take the boxes out, plug the holes & come out the back with your plumbing. I love having a c2c box & I love a bean animal drain setup so I know I would plug the holes & eighther build a internal c2c box out of glass or my preferred setup which is a DIY ghost style overflow.
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10/20/2016, 08:25 PM | #8 | |
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But it (bridging) is indeed a lot of work. There are also a number of technicalities that need to be observed to get the most of such a system. The gains to "gain" are rather significant when moving to overflows without teeth, and with increasing the overall length. I don't know why folks try to infer that the gains are marginal, minimal, what have you. But when taken as a whole, (this line of thought can get complicated fast,) any argument against the work vs gain, are rather moot. The physics tell us the increases are "huge." But whenever physics is mentioned, you lose half the audience immediately, because the concepts are very technical in nature. Most agree that surface skimming is a big deal. What gets lost is the speed factor, and how that speed factor influences the gas exchange overall, and the operation of your skimmer, and the operation of all auxiliary systems, which is where it gets complicated. The short non-technical version is the faster the surface is renewed the better the gas exchange, and the more efficient the skimmer works, and it dominos from there. You can also silence a nosiy overflow (not drain; overflow) by eliminating the teeth, and increasing the length. Teeth are a part of the problem with "reef ready" type overflows as well. I hear about 'real estate' when discussing C2C overflows, but really overflows such as you have take up more real estate, because the C2C does not go to the bottom of the tank, rather resides in the top part of the tank at the back. Basically unuseable space anyway. I think that the increases in efficiency, far outweigh the visual impact of a C2C. You see the back of the tank, or you see the face of the overflow, and the back of the tank...
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"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef |
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10/20/2016, 09:44 PM | #9 |
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I pulled mine out, used bulkheads to plug the holes and installed a new overflow. I did not do c2c but the principal is the same. It's doable but work obviously.
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10/20/2016, 09:45 PM | #10 |
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I'd like to do what the video did for my 180. Seems silent compared to mine
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10/23/2016, 02:50 PM | #11 | |
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01/12/2018, 09:27 AM | #12 | |
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Plugging Holes on Converstion to Ghost
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01/12/2018, 09:44 AM | #13 | |
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01/12/2018, 10:07 AM | #14 | |
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01/12/2018, 08:36 PM | #15 |
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I prefer the glass patch approach, though it's essentially a permanent fix. I don't like having bulkheads that are 'open' to the full volume of the tank.
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Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs |
01/12/2018, 09:39 PM | #16 |
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if your gonna rip em out go ahead drill the back, (have to agree with ca1ore, on the glass patch for permanence, better reliability) or you can bulk head it but long term it is a potential problem to face with a stocked then established tank.
there's no super easy swap out but it's not really that horrible either since your already looking at removing the BFT (big fXXXX thing) in the way of your real estate. you might as well spend the hour on it to really patch it and drill the back, the wait the 24 for everything to cure. one day way less headaches later.
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01/12/2018, 09:44 PM | #17 |
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Def use glass patches with silicone like momentive rtv.
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01/13/2018, 08:54 AM | #18 |
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01/15/2018, 12:47 PM | #19 |
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It's reef safe once cured but I would stick to a silicone that tank builders use.
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Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. |
01/15/2018, 02:42 PM | #20 |
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I had a 125 that was drilled on the bottom for an overflow. I did an external coast to coast to replace it. I used the bottom drilled holes for the intake of a closed loop rather than patching them. Inside the tank I placed a 90 in the bulkhead and used one of these to keep stuff from going thru the loop. Put some rock in front of it and you could not see it.
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/store...-1.25-inch-pvc |
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