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Old 01/15/2016, 02:29 PM   #26
tassod
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All this is very insightful but i don't think it can help my current situation. At this point i will be continuing my copper treatment to see what happens. For my lunula trigger he basically looks like he's covered in powdered sugar and he scratches big time. He also is looking weak. He's still eating (he's a trigger!) but i fear that giving him a freshwater dip may put him over the edge although my S.G right now is at 1.012 (slowly going up) as i tried hypo for a bit but didn't really see any improvement. Will flukes stay on him at this low of SG?


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Old 01/15/2016, 03:42 PM   #27
HumbleFish
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Originally Posted by ThRoewer View Post
I try to limit it to one prophylactic bath per fish, unless they show symptoms of an infection that requires further treatment. So far no fish actually needed a repeat treatment.
Would love to read more about your formalin regimen, if there is a thread or something on it. Do you think one formalin bath is enough to eradicate brook/uronema, so long as the fish is placed in a "clean" QT afterwards? How about velvet?


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Old 01/15/2016, 03:47 PM   #28
Dmorty217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tassod View Post
All this is very insightful but i don't think it can help my current situation. At this point i will be continuing my copper treatment to see what happens. For my lunula trigger he basically looks like he's covered in powdered sugar and he scratches big time. He also is looking weak. He's still eating (he's a trigger!) but i fear that giving him a freshwater dip may put him over the edge although my S.G right now is at 1.012 (slowly going up) as i tried hypo for a bit but didn't really see any improvement. Will flukes stay on him at this low of SG?
Man I'm sorry and feel your pain. My crosshatch ate up until the day he died... Flukes will die in hypo, but anything above hypo then they could still survive I suppose


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Old 01/15/2016, 03:51 PM   #29
tassod
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Man I'm sorry and feel your pain. My crosshatch ate up until the day he died... Flukes will die in hypo, but anything above hypo then they could still survive I suppose
Thanks man, just found out my pakistani butterfly just died. That makes 3 fish in last week and a half and those are the exact 3 that were last added.


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Old 01/16/2016, 11:54 AM   #30
mitchrapp
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snorvich,

First off, thank you for all you have done here. I started off with this hobby less than a year ago and have used TTM + prazi + 4 weeks observation from the get go. Thanks for starting me off right.

After I had a fish die from uronema (during TTM), I've realized that I need to start doing formalin dips. TheRoewer, I completely agree that it needs to be done right away since brook and uronema are such quick killers. But I don't know how one would do a formalin dip upon arrival since you would want to match the formalin dip salinity to the salinity of the shipping/LFS water. The store may give you a ballpark figure, but I always open the bag to measure it and more than once it has been quite off from what the store told me it would be. You are supposed to make the formalin dip and aerate 1-2 hours prior to dipping, and you wouldn't want to have that bag open for that long. If you pre-made and aerated the formalin dip, based off the ballpark figure and prior to measuring, then opened the bag and measured and it was off, then adjusting the salinity of the dip would mess up your formalin concentration.

Anyhow, so I just add an extra day and transfer into TTM. This is how I have done it with my last several fish and it seems to work well:

Day 1 - into QT
Day 2 - formalin bath then TT
Day 5 - formalin bath then TT + prazi
Day 8 - formalin bath then TT
Day 11 - formalin bath then TT + prazi
Day 14 - formalin bath then transfer to cycled QT
4 weeks observation, then transfer to DT.

Fish seem to do fine with this.



Last edited by mitchrapp; 01/16/2016 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 01/16/2016, 01:17 PM   #31
bat21
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Are that many formalin baths necessary? Seems like overkill. But I have no idea what I'm talking about. My next formalin bath will be my first. But I am going to implement a similar quarantine procedure moving forward.


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Old 01/16/2016, 07:06 PM   #32
ThRoewer
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Are that many formalin baths necessary? Seems like overkill. But I have no idea what I'm talking about. My next formalin bath will be my first. But I am going to implement a similar quarantine procedure moving forward.
I have cured a full blown Brooklynella infection on a clownfish with one single dip and transfer. Though sometimes it may require more.

If the goal is prevention without the fish showing actual symptoms I would only do one dip - the one at arrival.

Quote:
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... But I don't know how one would do a formalin dip upon arrival since you would want to match the formalin dip salinity to the salinity of the shipping/LFS water. .
It is done easy:

1. take the fish out of the bag and place them into a container. Take just as much water from the bag as is needed for the fish to swim. in the container.
Ideally you use a graduated container or one you have metered out and marked yourself so you know which volume you have at a certain fill level.

2. drip acclimate the fish to your QT water until you reach the mark. With my standard container it's 1/2 gallon, but you may use whatever is required for your fish.

3. if not already in it, add a air bubbler or small pump and then add the appropriate dose of formalin (20 drops per gallon). Keep an eye on the fish during the bath and pull them if they show signs of distress.

4. after 30 to 50 minutes (I always go 45) move the fish over to the QT.


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Old 01/16/2016, 09:14 PM   #33
mitchrapp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThRoewer View Post
I have cured a full blown Brooklynella infection on a clownfish with one single dip and transfer. Though sometimes it may require more.

If the goal is prevention without the fish showing actual symptoms I would only do one dip - the one at arrival.


It is done easy:

1. take the fish out of the bag and place them into a container. Take just as much water from the bag as is needed for the fish to swim. in the container.
Ideally you use a graduated container or one you have metered out and marked yourself so you know which volume you have at a certain fill level.

2. drip acclimate the fish to your QT water until you reach the mark. With my standard container it's 1/2 gallon, but you may use whatever is required for your fish.

3. if not already in it, add a air bubbler or small pump and then add the appropriate dose of formalin (20 drops per gallon). Keep an eye on the fish during the bath and pull them if they show signs of distress.

4. after 30 to 50 minutes (I always go 45) move the fish over to the QT.
I see. You are not aerating the formalin dip for 1-2 hours prior to dipping the fish. I read that recommendation in more than one place, but the one that comes to mind is Steven Pro and Mark Callahan's No Nonsense Guide to Fish Disease and Quarantine.


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Old 01/17/2016, 05:10 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by mitchrapp View Post
I see. You are not aerating the formalin dip for 1-2 hours prior to dipping the fish. I read that recommendation in more than one place, but the one that comes to mind is Steven Pro and Mark Callahan's No Nonsense Guide to Fish Disease and Quarantine.
I do not, but it seems reasonable.


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Old 01/17/2016, 12:54 PM   #35
ThRoewer
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Originally Posted by mitchrapp View Post
I see. You are not aerating the formalin dip for 1-2 hours prior to dipping the fish. I read that recommendation in more than one place, but the one that comes to mind is Steven Pro and Mark Callahan's No Nonsense Guide to Fish Disease and Quarantine.
There are a couple of reasons why I don't do it:
  1. it seems unnecessary as so far none of the fish I treated showed any problems. Though most of my fish are small (below 4 in) and there might be a difference with larger fish.
  2. it is not very practical and stresses fish unduly since they would have to sit for hours in a small container until the bath is ready.
  3. if you oxidize the formalin for two hours, will it still be effective?



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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio
3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki

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