DIY LED build for dummies…

[rogergolf66]

I wired in parallel. It was super easy and all my strings came out ballanced. Posting pic so can see the wiring.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by Six2seven

Wow I wish I would have read this thread before I placed my order. Tracking shows I will receive it on Monday. I have a 90g 48x18x24 my build plan is:

2 units - black anodized heat sinks 9x20 36 LEDs each.
Each unit will have 24 royal blues and 12 cool whites
Was planning on running 12 LEDs per dimmable "D" drivers, 6 drivers

I dont mind the costs and since Ive already purchased it, I will go that route. My questions is... is that the best option or should I go parallel saving some drivers? I will already have them so it's not a concern to return or save money I just want to know what is the best option in performance! Let me Know what you guys think.

Also I do like the blue look but am thinking of replacing some royal blues for some purple LEDs and replacing some cool whites for warm whites. Will adding green or red LEDs make it look like Christmas lights if I only add a few as well.? Thoughts?

I'm not sure which D drivers you bought. But yes if you ran two string on them you could easily go from 12 LED's per driver to 28 LED's per driver. but you wuld only be running tham at 1/2 of the MA that you would be if you ran them on single strings.

28 LED's running at 350 ma and 3.2 Volts would give you 1.12 watt per LED or 31.3 Watts total. 12 running at 700 ma and 3.6 Volts gives you 2.5 Watts each and a total of 30.2 Watts. With the LED's slightly more effecient at at 350 ma the total would be slightly brighter with two strings. But for total tank you would also need more than twice as many LED's to get the same amount of light.

I would stick with single strings on drivers rated at 1050 ma or less.

[rogergolf66]

Yes very true. I am running my strings at 700ma each string

[biecacka]

Thanks!!! So your saying 60-120 Cree for the whole tank w lenses on the optics?
Corey

Originally Posted by TropTrea

Wow that becomes a loaded question. Lets talk how many watts of LED lighting since that is a little more standardized with all the various LED's out there today. Then to add to your confusion there is also a big range based on what you want to put into your tank.

On the Low end of the scale for Soft Corals and fish you could get away with about 200 Watts of LED's but on the high end with SPS corals you can run as high as 400 watts of LED's. Now if your using CREE LED's and driving them at 1050 ma we are talking between 60 and 120 LED's. But going with some other LEDs and driving them as low as 1 Watt each your talking 200 to 400 LED's. A mid option is running at 700 ma where you would use 80 to 160 LED's.

With your 30" height you will definatly want lenses on your LED's as well.

[EpicWin]

I'm following along now. Gonna do mine soon. Great thread!

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by biecacka

Thanks!!! So your saying 60-120 Cree for the whole tank w lenses on the optics?
Corey

I personly would run 24 Royal Blues, 24 Blues and 12 Nuetral White as a starting point.

I would put 8 Royal Blues on on driver to run as a pre dawn post dusk.

I would then put 16 Royal Blues and 8 Blues on two drivers running them a dawn to dusk

The remainer of the Blues and the Nuetral whites I'd put on 3 more drivers and run them mid day.

After running this about 2 weeks to get used to the effect I would then consider what meet my personal tastes? Do I need to add more Blue or more whithe or is it great just the way it is? Personal taste is a big big factor and regardless of everyone says if you don't like it yourself you will be unhappy with it.

[BamaFan365]

Great thread with lots of good info.

[Devaji108]

Originally Posted by rogergolf66

I wired in parallel. It was super easy and all my strings came out ballanced. Posting pic so can see the wiring.

great! looking good. I debated going parallel for quite some time, but funilly decided not to. just out of simplicity.

[Devaji108]

Originally Posted by BamaFan365

Great thread with lots of good info.

Thanks glad you like it. it was/is my hope that the info and help I got as well as my learning could help others! I LOVE my LED's the GF does to she often says
" I am glad to made these lights I love the skimmer"
good luck with your build

[rogergolf66]

Ok up and running now for a few days. Looking for info on how long to run blue and whites and how quick u recomment increasing % to get it up? I used a par meter on old light and new led setup. I have lots of sps and I have to run blue and white @ 40% to match par. How much and how often should I increase the % so I don't shock the coral?

I am on controller so ramp up and down blues and whites through out the day to sim sun rise and mid day then again sunset.

Roger

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by rogergolf66

Ok up and running now for a few days. Looking for info on how long to run blue and whites and how quick u recomment increasing % to get it up? I used a par meter on old light and new led setup. I have lots of sps and I have to run blue and white @ 40% to match par. How much and how often should I increase the % so I don't shock the coral?

I am on controller so ramp up and down blues and whites through out the day to sim sun rise and mid day then again sunset.

Roger

Not knowing excatly how bright you are only going by your 40% comment I would say match the old level the first week then every week there after turn it up 5% more.

As far as timiming goes this varies by you total light output and what you have for corals. The most ideal lighting is 12 hours lights on 12 hours lights off. But for most this is not realistic., and would end up with either not enough or to much total light. You do want your full light oin for at least 8 hours minimum every day to allow maximium photosynthesis. Simularly yoyu want 8 hours of near darkness to allow maximium resperation.

Beyound these guidlines it is the amount of light your outputting multiplied by the time it is on verses what the corals you have need. In your case I;'d keep the timing initialy where it was with your old lights since your matching the PAR. As your increasing the light watch for signes of burn from too much light. If you do not see any problems when you get to full power then slowly start increasing your time with the lights on. Again if you see burning or bleeching it will be an indication your total light is excessive and you will need to back down slightly. But remember the 8 hours of near darkenss rule. I doubt it will be an issue but I do not know your hole setup so it is possible.

[bpcardona]

WOW.... a lot of work has been put into this thread. Thanks to all that have partaken.

[Devaji108]

^ glad you like it. i'll post an update on mine soon. still love it. and going to build another for my 40br in the next couple of months.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by Devaji108

great! looking good. I debated going parallel for quite some time, but funilly decided not to. just out of simplicity.

With the difference in driver cost the savings of running parrellel strings is very minimal. Then there is extra work ballancing parrellel strings. If you want to run two colors on a parrellel string it evens adds to the fustration I here from so many. your basicly paying for the total wattage capability of the driver with a driver capable of 2 amps to push two strings a 1 amp each ith the drivers taking up 3 watts each it means your limited to about 8 LED's on a string compared to running 12 or 14 on a string safely whit a single string.

[Devaji108]

^ yes that is one reason that I just went with wiring them in a series.
anyway thought it was time to update this thread as I finally got around to installing the splash guard to the array. it is still 1' above the water line.
I came up with many ways to attach the acrylic cover but this is what i ended up with:

drilled holes in the acrylic ( tip start out with a small bit and work your way up the the size you need.) drilled 6 hole with in 1/2 inch from the side did not have any problems.

this is what I got for spacers and to cover up the bolt:

cut it down using a pipe cutter to 1":


drilled holes in the array and assimilated it:

[Devaji108]

here are some shoots of it hanging:
the iphone make the color more red when shooting from below:
the view from the couch:




this pic gives a more accuret color as seen with the naked eye;


and a FTS you can see the DIY fuge LED I made in action on the QT tank :

cheers

[TropTrea]

I like the overall look. At 1' above the water level I see no real need for a splash guard as I'm running mine about 8" above since January with no issues. I do assume you be slowly lowering them as time goes by.

Are you planning some form of an edge, canopy over the system. It would reduce the room glare of the LED's and could look very neat if matched to the wood on your stand.

Seing you are using 1"X1" channeling and I use 2"X1" Channeling may I ask how warm the channeling gets after several hours of operation? For me the CREE XP's running at 700ma probably bring my rails up around 90 degrees and those running at 1050 ma are just a bit warmer probably close to 95 degrees. this is without Fans and an average of 3 1/2" spacing.

[Devaji108]

oh man can't see the pics anymore..***...lol
the C channel does not get hot at all even after 9+ hrs of running it's warm to the touch.
there will be no canopy as the GF hates them, was thinking of a "floating" canopy but kinda like the slim look to it. it ads a modern touch to the rustic feel of the system.

just wanted to make sure no splashes got on the array. better be safe that sorry!
I might lower it a few inches but the glare is not bad at all. and still only running it 50-75%

[Snausy]

What a great thread, I've learned so much.

I have a 300g 31" deep tank that I want to move to LED and after looking at prices DIY is the only option for me.

I keep waffling back and forth about just going the easy way and ordering 2 of these 120 led kits(with bridgelux) http://www.aquastyleonline.com/produ...mable-Kit.html ...

and now you guys have discussed using fewer of the more powerful Crees to achieve the same effect...so I'm less sure I want to do that.

Troptrea...I really like your idea about 45degree angle for the first row and 22 for the second. I always thought that pointing light at the front glass from above was a waste and shining light on the front side of the fish is a good plan. I'll be doing that I think.

My tank is an easy FOWLR but I love it as much as some of you love your reefs so I want it to POP. Can you give me a couple ideas as to what you would do if you were me?

300g 8ft long 31" high. What would you do?

One other question I'm not settled on is rows of led or making clusters of led on a bigger plate. Thoughs? Thanks again for making this thread.

Your splashguard my not be necessary but it looks nice and I bet there will be a time in the future that you are thankful you have it.

[Dukester]

Looks great

Heres my setup 90g tank, 60 LEDS 2:1 RB:CW, No optics