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Unread 11/08/2017, 05:17 AM   #1
newby30gallon
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phosphate reactor media

this is my first time using ferris oxcide to control phosphates, is it common to see trace discoloration in a filter sock due to it. also, if some is leaking into the water is this a cause for concern for live stock or corals?

anything else to know about the phosban reactor?

thanks


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Unread 11/08/2017, 05:27 AM   #2
mcgyvr
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First.. Do you have a phosphate problem?
If so what is your current phosphate level?
I personally do not recommend GFO for "newbies" (or anyone really unless specifically needed) and only recommend it for those with a phosphate problem that they can't solve via other methods.. I think there are very few if any reasons to run GFO and in my 15+ years have never needed it..
GFO is quite powerful and can actually do harm if you don't need it by stripping to water of phosphates.. Phosphates as well as nitrates are "nutrients" and are needed by all marine life.. Just like fertilizer is needed for your grass.. Too much and you burn the grass.. Too little and it doesn't grow green/strong..

but..

If the media is breaking apart then you are likely running too much flow in the reactor and should close the valve some to slow the flow.. Or you just didn't rinse it.. It needs to be rinsed prior to use to remove any dust caused by shipping/handling vibration,etc...


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Unread 11/08/2017, 05:56 AM   #3
LeJeune981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgyvr View Post
First.. Do you have a phosphate problem?
If so what is your current phosphate level?
I personally do not recommend GFO for "newbies" (or anyone really unless specifically needed) and only recommend it for those with a phosphate problem that they can't solve via other methods.. I think there are very few if any reasons to run GFO and in my 15+ years have never needed it..
GFO is quite powerful and can actually do harm if you don't need it by stripping to water of phosphates.. Phosphates as well as nitrates are "nutrients" and are needed by all marine life.. Just like fertilizer is needed for your grass.. Too much and you burn the grass.. Too little and it doesn't grow green/strong..

but..

If the media is breaking apart then you are likely running too much flow in the reactor and should close the valve some to slow the flow.. Or you just didn't rinse it.. It needs to be rinsed prior to use to remove any dust caused by shipping/handling vibration,etc...
What is a good level for phosphate?
I read alot about people carbon dosing and shooting for 0 Phos and 0 Nitrate... mainly sps guys

My tank has .25 Phos. (Api test kit)

Would that be high.. or good?

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Unread 11/08/2017, 08:03 AM   #4
mcgyvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeJeune981 View Post
What is a good level for phosphate?
I read alot about people carbon dosing and shooting for 0 Phos and 0 Nitrate... mainly sps guys

My tank has .25 Phos. (Api test kit)

Would that be high.. or good?
I would consider that a bit high and likely a sign of overfeeding.. But if everything is doing good and you don't have nuisance algae issues I wouldn't worry too much but would likely reduce my feeding to see how the levels respond.. I also wouldn't rely on API for phosphate tests.... API is fine for some tests but phosphate is not one I would use personally.. Salifert/redsea,etc.. hanna,etc..
So I might recommend a second opinion on that..

In general I personally would shoot for phosphate levels of ~.15mg/l down to ~.05mg/l and watching to see if you have problems with nuisance algae..

zero nitrate/phosphate is bad (and likely not possible as nothing would be living in the tank) as like I stated its nutrients that are needed.. But too much is just as bad as too little..



Most say "zero" but thats just thrown out there to be generic and to avoid a discussion of proper levels..
Not too long ago achieving "zero" or low levels wasn't as easy/achievable as it is now.. There are still plenty though with excessive nutrient levels but achieving low/proper levels is fairly simple now..


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Unread 11/10/2017, 06:22 AM   #5
newby30gallon
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thank you for clarity. ive had the same tank for 8 years and just ventured into the GFO world as in the past i had issues with phosphates and recently redid the entire setup.

so i was trying to get ahead of any problems. and i did not rinse the gfo prior to putting in.

They make it seem like the media is nuclear in nature and said you could rinse but not needed.

So the questions becomes now, i assume just turn off the GFO until needed. or have do i need to redo the entire water? I was planning on adding livestock this weekend.

any help is appreciated.


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Unread 11/10/2017, 07:25 AM   #6
mcgyvr
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I would not run GFO unless needed and a little bit of fines in the water is not going to be a problem and its probably already been mostly removed by your filter sock..


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Unread 11/10/2017, 07:52 AM   #7
allendehl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgyvr View Post
First.. Do you have a phosphate problem?
If so what is your current phosphate level?
I personally do not recommend GFO for "newbies" (or anyone really unless specifically needed) and only recommend it for those with a phosphate problem that they can't solve via other methods.. I think there are very few if any reasons to run GFO and in my 15+ years have never needed it..
GFO is quite powerful and can actually do harm if you don't need it by stripping to water of phosphates.. Phosphates as well as nitrates are "nutrients" and are needed by all marine life.. Just like fertilizer is needed for your grass.. Too much and you burn the grass.. Too little and it doesn't grow green/strong..

but..

If the media is breaking apart then you are likely running too much flow in the reactor and should close the valve some to slow the flow.. Or you just didn't rinse it.. It needs to be rinsed prior to use to remove any dust caused by shipping/handling vibration,etc...
Geez Mc you are a real encyclopedia. I know this adds 0 to the discussion but I felt you deserve a big Thank You from us newbies. There is a lesson in every post.

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Unread 11/10/2017, 08:41 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by allendehl View Post
Geez Mc you are a real encyclopedia. I know this adds 0 to the discussion but I felt you deserve a big Thank You from us newbies. There is a lesson in every post.
You getting fresh with me?.. I'm married


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Unread 11/10/2017, 09:23 AM   #9
allendehl
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Originally Posted by mcgyvr View Post
You getting fresh with me?.. I'm married
dammit....all good and smart men are already taken. That's what my wife said when I proposed 12 Yrs ago....I quite didn't understand what she meant.


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Unread 11/10/2017, 07:42 PM   #10
LeJeune981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgyvr View Post
I would consider that a bit high and likely a sign of overfeeding.. But if everything is doing good and you don't have nuisance algae issues I wouldn't worry too much but would likely reduce my feeding to see how the levels respond.. I also wouldn't rely on API for phosphate tests.... API is fine for some tests but phosphate is not one I would use personally.. Salifert/redsea,etc.. hanna,etc..
So I might recommend a second opinion on that..

In general I personally would shoot for phosphate levels of ~.15mg/l down to ~.05mg/l and watching to see if you have problems with nuisance algae..

zero nitrate/phosphate is bad (and likely not possible as nothing would be living in the tank) as like I stated its nutrients that are needed.. But too much is just as bad as too little..



Most say "zero" but thats just thrown out there to be generic and to avoid a discussion of proper levels..
Not too long ago achieving "zero" or low levels wasn't as easy/achievable as it is now.. There are still plenty though with excessive nutrient levels but achieving low/proper levels is fairly simple now..
I try not to over feed much.. but let's face it.. I enjoy watching my clowns and corals eat and be happy..

I'll be going over to my buddies this weekend and he has sailfert test.. so he will test my water and see what his test read..

I've got a little hair algea in the fuge... ton of cheato..

But woke up a few days ago to a mess of red slime cyano everywhere.. so I'm dealing with that now..

I do have a reactor coming monday.. along with some chemipure elite (gonna see how I like that stuff)
Plan on running that in the reactor.. along with some gfo if or when needed

My goal is all natural filtration

I was carbon dosing for a while to help bring down nitrates... I stopped because of the cyano that popped up (I assume from the carbon) I've never had a speck of cyano in yhe last year of running this set up..

But have had and overcame every other neicence thus far... daitoms/gha/ some turf algea/ tank breaking/ a tank crash/ and last was a Dino outbreak..

But slowly but surely it's all coming around and my tank and it's inhabitants are doing great..and a beautiful reef will emerge

(All my Lil frags are super happy today... expecially my frogspawn)

Nothing better than coming home from the dentist and a sore mouth than that!!

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Unread 11/11/2017, 07:05 AM   #11
mcgyvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeJeune981 View Post

I do have a reactor coming monday.. along with some chemipure elite (gonna see how I like that stuff)
Plan on running that in the reactor.. along with some gfo if or when needed

FYI... chemipure elite already has GFO in it...So I would certainly not recommend also running GFO..


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Unread 11/11/2017, 07:42 AM   #12
LeJeune981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgyvr View Post
FYI... chemipure elite already has GFO in it...So I would certainly not recommend also running GFO..
I did not know this...
On the add I read on amizon.. it said it contained highly purified and ground carbon and a di exchange resin..
But thank you for letting me know because I had no idea

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Unread 11/11/2017, 02:49 PM   #13
mcgyvr
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yep.. "elite" = regular chemipure + GFO


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Unread 11/13/2017, 10:43 AM   #14
Diana A
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here is a high quality but cheaper cost option to chemipure elite... place in a fine media bag: buy brs carbon rox 8 and a tablespoon of gfo. If you have chemipure elite bags that are going to be thrown out, use dump the contents and reuse the media bag


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