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02/04/2018, 01:18 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: North Florida
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seahorse fry and babies
So from what I've read the babies have to make the surface in order to inflate they swim bladder.
Does anyone know if this is true? How long do they need? Then from what I've read you don't want them to get back to the surface due to them snicking air. Appreciate any responses from those that do seahorses.
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Successfully bred: Banggai, Lined Seahorse, Saltwater Mollies, from egg dwarf cuttlefish, peppermint shrimp, Opae Shrimp. Saltbabies.com Algae Barn Discount Code: saltbabies15 Current Tank Info: 120 gallon seahorse/flame angel/sharknose/pipefish tank. 30 gallon grow out, misc. other tanks |
02/04/2018, 08:28 PM | #2 |
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When I raised my erectus fry I did not worry about them getting to the surface to inflate their swim bladders. I did keep a light low in their tank to discourage them from hanging near the surface but I also read that it might be due to poor husbandry that causes fry to float.
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02/05/2018, 09:32 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
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For me it wasn't even a consideration, and, I don't know if it is true.
I have timers set so that once I feel birthing date is imminent, I set the timers to turn off all pumps before lights come on in the morning, even the return, and just go with the air lines for water motion. Once the birthing occurs, if they need surface air they are free to do so or not as they choose. When I transfer them to the rearing containers, I use only air lines for water motion, at least until they have grown a lot. For me, I've ended up with floaters (that usually die although not all) whether or not I try to keep them from staying at the surface or not. I've always assumed that the floaters have been affected by bacteria but don't really know for sure. I change 100% of the water every two days, cleaning and sterilizing all surfaces of anything the water contacts. My present batch of 103 barb fry had about 1/3 of them floaters by the fourth day and now 9 days in I've had to remove 17 of the dead that I'm assuming are from the floaters as the numbers of floaters has now decreased. I've also noticed over the years, that as a male matures, the survival rate of the fry goes up. Anyone else noticed this?
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Seahorses. Culture nanno, rotifers and brine shrimp. Current Tank Info: Seahorses |
02/05/2018, 01:44 PM | #4 |
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Location: North Florida
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Thanks for the replies.
I've read a breeding journal that indicated the swim bladder / snick air thing but bacteria makes more sense. I'm so jealous about the barbs. That's what I really wanted but they are hard to come by here and the only ones I could find were from Ocean rider. I figured I should start with cheaper before I graduate to $150/ fish.
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Successfully bred: Banggai, Lined Seahorse, Saltwater Mollies, from egg dwarf cuttlefish, peppermint shrimp, Opae Shrimp. Saltbabies.com Algae Barn Discount Code: saltbabies15 Current Tank Info: 120 gallon seahorse/flame angel/sharknose/pipefish tank. 30 gallon grow out, misc. other tanks |
02/06/2018, 10:25 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
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Living in Canada I have few options now for getting seahorses other than the erectus I've been selling for a few years after importing the adults from Florida.
This time I imported 6 abs and 8 barbs from Seahorse Australia. It ended up with all costs in, barbs cost me $133.34 each and abs cost me $98 each. I would think the shipping which was the most expensive cost, and not having the high exchange rate would make it cheaper for anyone in the US than what my costs were.
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Seahorses. Culture nanno, rotifers and brine shrimp. Current Tank Info: Seahorses |
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