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08/22/2016, 08:32 AM | #601 |
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Can anyone point me to where the acid bath instructions are? I can't seem to find the thread in the search. Thank you.
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08/22/2016, 05:43 PM | #602 |
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If you are trying to remove phosphate, I would use this procedure:
1) Place the rock in a tub outside. 2) Put on chemical-resistant gloves and goggles. 3) Add 10 parts water to cover the rock. 4) Add 1 part muriatic acid. Be careful. The fumes are toxic. 5) Let the mixture sit for 20-30 minutes. 6) Neutralize any remaining acid with baking soda. The bubbling will stop when the acid is gone. 7) Dispose of the water, but check with your sewer district to see what they have to say. 8) Rinse the rock well. In most places, tap water is fine.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
08/23/2016, 08:00 AM | #603 |
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Thanks bud.
Is there any benefit to letting it sit for more then that time? Like as in days? If I wanted to clean the dry rocks from algaes and such, would this also be the best method?
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08/23/2016, 07:56 PM | #604 |
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After some period of time, the acid will be neutralized, so letting it sit longer won't do anything. Also, long soaks might dissolve too much of the rock. The acid bath should remove algae and other organic debris well enough, but I haven't test it, personally.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
08/24/2016, 11:31 PM | #605 | |
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bleaching & acid bath times and ratios
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08/25/2016, 01:33 PM | #606 |
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Thanks for the data point. That sounds like what I'd expect if there's enough acid in the solution to dissolve a lot of rock.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
10/10/2016, 12:09 AM | #607 |
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I gave the lye bath a try on some Pukani that was pretty covered in dead matter. My lye mix was pretty much what was previously recommended and the pH was 12.3 when the rock had been soaking for a day. After two days when I went to rinse it off I got some foam, soap bubble foam. Yes, it would appear that I made soap in my rocks. Two days outside with a protein skimmer in my trashcan of rock next to a fan blowing foam into the yard. High pH, Low pH, add ca+ add salt, change water, still trying to figure out how to rinse it all out.
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10/10/2016, 07:10 PM | #608 |
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Lye added to fat will create soap, so I'm not surprised that you saw some issues. I've done that experiment with olive oil. I would rinse the rock very well, and let the skimmer get out the soap, or maybe give it an acid bath, if that didn't work.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
10/11/2016, 12:19 AM | #609 | |
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10/11/2016, 10:34 PM | #610 | |
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10/12/2016, 01:30 AM | #611 | ||
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Quote:
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That will be an issue that is different for every person, like I said I'm still dosing phosfree and using 10 micron filter socks to catch any free phosphates that bind with the phosfree. My pukani was fresh never been cleaned until I bought it so I had to do all the work and hopefully it won't leach phosphates into DT causing major algae problems. Like I said though acid washing pukani you lose a lot of rock. GL |
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11/30/2016, 06:19 AM | #612 |
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Chemical cure
Doing pukani.
Using NaOH. To hydrolize organics Using high heat around 150F This simulates the safe conditions in a standard tissue digester 24 hr Tap water rinse Sodium percarbonate soak 24 hr just to whiten then rock Tap water rinse Oxalic acid to remove some rust stains 24 hours room temp Tap water rinse Muriatic acid wash for 1 hour to remove phosphate and other metals Rinse in di water Rinse inlanthanium chloride solution Into tank to cycle with tank water That's where I am now. |
11/30/2016, 06:21 AM | #613 |
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You know I'd pay brs to precook and oxidize this stuff
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10/01/2017, 01:04 PM | #614 |
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Dumb question... I bought bleach from Wally World it looks like a no name brand but is concentrated... I didn't see gallon jugs that were not concentrated how do I determine the amount to use?
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10/01/2017, 04:03 PM | #615 |
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It's close enough to Chlorox that the same rates would be fine, unless it's marked as "concentrated". I'd try something like ¼ cup per gallon to make a disinfecting solution. Be careful about breathing bleach fumes, particularly if you have asthma or some other pulmonary issue. Good ventilation could prevent health problems.
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10/01/2017, 04:14 PM | #616 |
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It does say concentrated but I don't see a percentage or amount.
I just don't want to overdue it. I'm going to run the rock in a bucket with a algae scrubber after. |
10/01/2017, 05:08 PM | #617 |
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There won't be any harm in extra bleach as long as everyone stays away from the fumes. I think the "concentrated bleaches" are something like twice the strength of regular bleach, so maybe ⅛ cup per gallon should be fine.
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05/12/2018, 02:58 PM | #618 |
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Why not try bleach?
I've always been a champion of using the most efficacious, rapid fix possible (latter not so good for reef tanks, I've learned).
So Randy's gentle, patient answers to the many "why bleach?"questions never quite scratched my itch. But I have to give Randy props, not only for being one smart cookie, but also one of the most patient people on this forum. I have some very old dead coral with some very old embedded/encrusted thick algae(or dino or cyano, or combo) on it. From a freshwater tank. This stuff is tenacious. And thick. While awaiting shipment of sodium percarbonate and sodium hydroxyde , I put these in a bucket with plain bleach (maybe 5:1 with water-eyeballed it). And let it sit overnight. And was amazed and delighted that the rocks were completely clean the next morning. Imagine that! So, oftentimes simpler is better; you just have to have faith and try it. Thanks Randy! |
05/12/2018, 03:02 PM | #619 |
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Warning about "OxyClean Free"
For those tempted to use this as a cheap and available form of sodium percarbonate, read the SDS first!
It may be free of dyes and whatnot, but they snuck in a surfactant/emollient that is specifically very toxic to aquatic life. So don't do it! (And if you do, let us know what happened). |
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