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Old 08/31/2006, 07:22 PM   #26
Shawnts106
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I rushed and hit submit...

I read where you do not recommend the GE bulbs anymore? explain about that...


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Old 08/31/2006, 07:23 PM   #27
The Grim Reefer
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Quote:
Originally posted by Creetin
So those readings would be similar to bulbs ran off of a sunlight supply tek fixture? If not what can i expect?
Just purchased the 6 bulb 54 watt fixture, I like it alot, I had the icecap setup and sold off for this.
TIA
The numbers are meaningless except for comparison of the different lamps. You can pick better output lamps for your Tek based on the output from the list.


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Old 08/31/2006, 07:26 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shawnts106
I rushed and hit submit...

I read where you do not recommend the GE bulbs anymore? explain about that...
I liked the way the lamp picked up red and yellow colors. The white looking lamps I have tried just don't give you the pop the dingy colored GE did. I will have to pop it in with a bunch of blues and actinics and see how it does but it looks like the cheap 10K lamps some of the cheap fixtures come with.


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Old 08/31/2006, 07:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Do you think the "Daylight" Bulbs from ATI and GEISMANN would have the same effect on reds and yellows?
Oh, and why dont you recommend the GE's anymore?


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Old 08/31/2006, 07:35 PM   #30
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Grim

I have the 48" tek light and want to put it on a 6 ft tank (180g). I'm trying to figure out a way to light up the last 24" of the tank. Could I use a 24" fixture just to illuminate that 2' x 2' square? I was also thinking of just getting a 250w Halide to illuminate.

Any ideas?

Thanks


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Old 08/31/2006, 07:37 PM   #31
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what are these numbers compared to the VHO bulbs

was this with or with out reflectors

i always thought UVL was the best but according to your par readins they are 2nd to ATI.


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Old 08/31/2006, 07:53 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
The numbers are meaningless except for comparison of the different lamps. You can pick better output lamps for your Tek based on the output from the list.
I see, Thanks.
Has anyone tried the red hydro bulbs?
I have heard they make your red corals pop with color.

http://hydroliquidators.net/store/pr...fc5aecf0850a11


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Old 08/31/2006, 11:06 PM   #33
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Dunno about that lamp but I have ran the GE 3000K and it does make pink and purple stand out a lot better. I plan on running it once I have my nutrients in check.


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Old 09/01/2006, 06:44 AM   #34
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Thanks Grim! The numbers are very enlightening! Haha.
I really love my T5 setup and reading your posts a long time ago helped me choose T5 instead of heating the water with a handful of MHs!

I have had my current system running for about a year and my corals are going thru a really good growth spurt right now so I am not going to change any lamps until I notice them not growing.


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Old 09/01/2006, 10:45 AM   #35
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I don't know...UV still probably has the best actinic bulb, which has always been their strong point.


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Old 09/01/2006, 10:51 AM   #36
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I didn't realize that ATI was still around and was under the impression that the D&D bulbs were the same bulbs with different names? Can you still get the bulbs that are called blue plus then?


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Old 09/01/2006, 10:59 AM   #37
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ATI Sells Blue Plus, D&D/Guisemann has the Actinic Plus. Reefgeek has the Blue Plus and they are quite a bit better than the Actinic plus.


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Old 09/01/2006, 12:26 PM   #38
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Dear Grimm,

A note of "Thanks" for helping with the understanding of T-5's, and how to make them work for us in our tanks.

There use to be an old 'guideline' of how many watts per gallon of light would be minimal for keeping different types of aquatic life.

Example: I had a 70g tank, with 4-VHO 48" bulbs, so 440 watts of light. That would be 6.28 watts per gallon. OK, for most things but not stonys and high light clams.

Now I have T-5's, 4- bulbs (54W) on an IC660 W/ IC reflectors, and one on a TEK ballast and reflector (54W) so I have a total watts of 270. This now gives me 3.85 watts per gallon.

The numbers say less light, but it just isn't so. Is there any guidelines for T-5's, and how much light is needed to keep softies, stonies, anemones and clams?

I think I have enough light for stonies, high light clams, and anemones, am I correct?

Thanks again for your time!

Robyn


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Old 09/01/2006, 01:21 PM   #39
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Robyn, watts are a measure of electrical consumption, not of light. The burner on your electric range set to high turns uses a lot of electricity and glows with orange light...not much PAR for a lot of watts.

The watts/gallon concept was never close to exact, but it can only be applied within one class of lighting. VHO, PC, T-5, MH--and even within each of those classes--vary pretty dramatically in their output of light for a given amount of power. (That's the whole thrust of the PAR testing of bulbs/reflectors/ballasts that The GR does so well.)

That said, you have enough light to keep some "SPS" corals, most clams and many anemone species. (At least I can say, with similar lighting, I'm able to do so. YMMV)

Gary


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Old 09/01/2006, 02:30 PM   #40
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WHat ^^^ Said. There are so many different ballast, lamp and reflector combination and varied tank deminsions that watts per gallon is useless. Back when everyone had flat reflectors and rectangular tanks it was still only a helpful guideline.

If you are running 4 overdriven T5's with IC reflectors on a tank less than 24" tall you have enough light to grow anything under the lamps all the way to the sand bed.


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Old 09/01/2006, 04:54 PM   #41
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So then......do the 24" lights with the IC reflectors put out as much PAR as the 48" lights?


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Old 09/01/2006, 04:56 PM   #42
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Normally driven probably not.


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Old 09/01/2006, 04:57 PM   #43
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can you overdrive the 24" lights? what ballast config would do this?


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Old 09/01/2006, 05:26 PM   #44
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Thanks, Artful and Grimm.

Even though T-5's aren't 'new' there isn't a lot of Good, Useful information, in my area.

Thanks again for your help!

With your PAR postings, it makes it so much easier to decide on bulbs to buy. Depending on which type of corals/animals I wish to keep, I can make better choices when making a purchase!


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Old 09/01/2006, 05:46 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by mmoore0803
can you overdrive the 24" lights? what ballast config would do this?
Ice Cap, the 660 will run 4 lamps the 430 will do 2


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Old 09/01/2006, 06:13 PM   #46
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Thank you very much Grim. I can see you put many hours into aiding newb and pro T5er's. What type / model of meter did you use and what type of light meter would you use to tell if the lamps spectrum has shifted considerably, hence know when to replace bulbs?


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Old 09/01/2006, 06:20 PM   #47
mmoore0803
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won't the 660 be too much for the 24w bulbs?


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Old 09/01/2006, 10:25 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally posted by R.yumaDaddy?
Thank you very much Grim. I can see you put many hours into aiding newb and pro T5er's. What type / model of meter did you use and what type of light meter would you use to tell if the lamps spectrum has shifted considerably, hence know when to replace bulbs?
I use an Apogee QMSS meter. You would need a spectrometer to test for color shift, not a cheap gadget.


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Old 09/01/2006, 11:07 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
I use an Apogee QMSS meter. You would need a spectrometer to test for color shift, not a cheap gadget.
Do you have the one with the cable?

How about the switch?

That is much more reasonable than I thought it would be.

--Ray


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Old 09/01/2006, 11:10 PM   #50
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Yes the one with the cable. I have the sunlight calibrated one. I fugure I can check at noon outside and see how close the calibration is.


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