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Old 06/26/2017, 10:18 AM   #101
Wally.B
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Thanks JimON,

Welcome to this Journey.

I think I am as good as I can be with Chemistry, Stability, and Circulation.
After 3 SPS start-up failures, I'm bent on getting some success this time.

I have one last piece of this puzzle to solve (LIGHTING).

I THINK, I need to go MORE on (Photo period and Intensity).

I must go slow on acclimatization (to not burn anything), but I can't go too slow since I may loose the Colors that I inherited from Frag Purchases.

If I get to the Ideal Lighting Point, things should move forward.

Question is how to get there Safely (Using the 3 types of Lights I have [MH,T5,LED]):
- Lighting Intensity
- Lighting Fixture Height which means Spread
- Lighting Photo Period


My thinking is.....Colors can be brought back, Dead Corals you Cannot!!



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Old 06/26/2017, 11:11 AM   #102
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IDEA!! (Why mess around with the whole tank). Sacrifice One Frag (Bring high up in tank)

This just hit me. I have one Triple branch Bonzai Frag no yet mounted.




If these SPS truly needs more PARS, then rather than adjust lighting on whole tank and risk all the corals,
I can move one piece of same Bonzai up more rapidly toward the MH lights and if it burns (oh well), but what if it really takes off.

If there is a sweet spot, I can measure the PARS and then match other Corals placement (which are all kind of the same) with a lighting change.


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Old 06/26/2017, 11:30 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally.B View Post


My thinking is.....Colors can be brought back, Dead Corals you Cannot!!
You couldnt be more right with this statement!!


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Old 06/26/2017, 01:52 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally.B View Post
IDEA!! (Why mess around with the whole tank). Sacrifice One Frag (Bring high up in tank)

This just hit me. I have one Triple branch Bonzai Frag no yet mounted.




If these SPS truly needs more PARS, then rather than adjust lighting on whole tank and risk all the corals,
I can move one piece of same Bonzai up more rapidly toward the MH lights and if it burns (oh well), but what if it really takes off.

If there is a sweet spot, I can measure the PARS and then match other Corals placement (which are all kind of the same) with a lighting change.
Be careful with this because I have a Aussie Gold Tort that likes low par and is located near the sand bed, and my Tri Color Valida likes high par and sits at the top of the highest rock, while my Bonzai likes some where in the middle. If I move the Valida down it turns green and brown. If I move the Gold Tote up it will lose its color fast and starts STN. And my Bonzi starts to fade if I go above a certain point.
When I acclimate my corals to the light I start them at the bottom of the tank and move them up slowly until I find that particular corals "sweet spot". But then again thats just me.


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Old 06/26/2017, 07:17 PM   #105
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I will be careful.

However I need to understand more about my lighting setup.
I think I'm way under what I should be running for SPS requirements.

It's been a mystery to me all along, since I have custom lighting mix, a modified MH reflector, so I can't really compare with other setups. The Par readings that I took years ago (same setup) is all I have. And they all showed too low (at the Heights and Wattage selector I have now).

Here is the prototype for multi Level Bonsai placements, or maybe a few cheap $5 Medium Lighting Acros.

How high can the frags go??




And with some adjustments to fit, here is the rack installed.




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Old 06/26/2017, 07:46 PM   #106
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Jonez,

I do understand that corals have different lighting and it took me two years to learn how to place Zoa, and Acans in my other tank. Was also a challenge to make them happy with circulation.
The nice thing about soft and some LPS is they are more forgiving to some degree.

When you say move SPS up slowly. How?

I find that when you break a plug and glue it, or even worse remove frag from plug and glue it, it's not easy to move, especially when it encrusts on rock.

Plus in my SPS tank, it's not about coral placement yet.

It's about increasing my MH output and adjusting fixture high for a medium tank setup. Low pars on bottom for lower lighting SPS, but enough power for higher lighting SPS at the top of my rock structure.
I have no will to add more rock to bring corals higher.
Lowering lights and increasing power is easier.

Then SPS placement will need some fine tuning.


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Old 06/26/2017, 11:31 PM   #107
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I really like the frag rack. That's basically what I do for my corals I just didn't think of doing it that way. I just start frags in the sand and move them to higher places in the tank before I glue them down. But I might have to make a similar rack to get a idea on where to place it. As far as how much par some coral need I found this useful
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fBktpJ3umAs


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Old 06/27/2017, 12:28 AM   #108
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The Donkey Kong "Bonsai Acro" Challenge

So based on this Experts Article the Bonsai Acro ideally need "Medium to Strong Lighting" and "Medium to Strong Circulation". The Water Parameters [Calc 400-400], Alk [8-9], Mag [1300-1400].

Article Reference https://reefbum.com/sps/sps-deep-div...nsai-acropora/

The only variable for this Experiment will be Lighting.

The control variable I have is one of my oldest Frag is a Bonzai, that has been dong well, and is in the middle of my tank.

I fragged up the Triple Branch Bonzai, and each branch is very close to same size.



I'm starting all 3 Bonsai's all at the same level, a bit below the Tank Bonsai.

Slowly I'll stagger them apart at different lighting levels (moving up the Donkey Kong Ladders), and see how they individually do for (Color, Growth, PE, and Survival)

If I move the Dong Rack left, all will get stronger Circulation, as the Gyre Pump widens it's Spread.

THIS WILL HELP ME UNDERSTAND MY LIGHTING Capacity Better, and possibly learn more about SPS placement in general.

I bet if I post this Photo in my Office or Sump Room, my Son may notice it. (GAMING )



Last edited by Wally.B; 06/27/2017 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 06/28/2017, 08:44 AM   #109
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Hey Wally, haven't checked in, in a while and MAN!!! You've been busy..
I like where you went with po4.. but personally, I have always had better colour with higher n than 1 or 2 ppm.. with h your po4 so much lower, I wouldn't let n get any lower..
Also the variable frag height test is a good one but I find that a bonsai may not be the best test subject as it has always look d better for me under lower light. I find that the areas between the branches will lighten and lose that deep purple when it is getting too much light.
One other thing to keep in mind- with the dropping nutrients, light acclimation tests may not be so reliable at the moment...
You might get better results if you maintain your new nutrient situation for a month or two before light testing.
Just the nutrient shift alone will change the colour of your acros to a degree.. not to mention the corals' sensitivity to light..
Oh, and that frag shot fro last page.. I would agree that the extra blue lighting probably contributed to the more green before shot.
Keep on Keepin' on, Wally!!
If my tank was the actual wall of my desk, I would get absolutely zero work done...


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Old 06/28/2017, 09:29 AM   #110
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Matt,

Finally a Problem that I can handle. Working on keeping N&P up. (Just feed fish more, and maybe a bit more on the Coral Food)

BTW. (THe Algae scrubber has screeched to a halt/trickle with N & P so low).

Yes, the plan is slow and steady with acclimatization.

I'll play with the Bonsai's at lower levels. One will be tested a bit on the higher side.

However I have these 3 "NO-Name" Acros, that have hints of color that might be better candidates.



What's weird in and upsets me is the Sunset Frag has gone from Yellow to white (but it isn't bleached, since it does fully Glow Green under Actinic).
I was told it can handle a ton of lighting, but not sure about that.


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Old 06/28/2017, 10:52 AM   #111
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that is weird about the Millie.. must have gotten stressed..
I'd leave it alone for a while.


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Old 06/28/2017, 01:01 PM   #112
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that is weird about the Millie.. must have gotten stressed..
I'd leave it alone for a while.
Yes, leave it alone.

Here is proof, since I left this Ora Bonape For Dead (after last tank bleaching), but same as Millie this time, it was still kind of glowing, and no algae infesting it.

Just in the last couple of weeks I notice Real Green and purple coming back.
The Green Circle show recovering part (new tips).




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Old 06/28/2017, 05:44 PM   #113
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It's pretty amazing how long corals can just sit there dormant and then one day, they just start up again.. I have frags I've been waiting two years for. Good colour but absolutely no growth. I've been waiting on a pearlberry for over two years...


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Old 06/29/2017, 12:50 AM   #114
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Decision to STOP all Additives (Going With Water Changes Only, Plus a tiny bit of Coral Food)

That Sunset Milli is now bleaching from Bottom up. Will not touch it and hoping it stops.
Since there was only one more left where I got the original, I picked up another Sunset, but this time left on Plug and put on KONG Frag Rack lower down at Mario Level.




As since I love the Yellow Contrast look that I've never had in my tank before, picked up a couple more Yellows (A Wild Yellow Acro, and a Fuzzy Yellow Acro)





I have also decided to Stop All Additives since Water Changes with Dosing Aquaforest Components 1,2,3 will provide everything Corals need naturally for such young small frags.

Dosing had to be increased from 5 ml, 7.5ml a day to 12ml (6.0ml twice a day) to keep ALK from dropping (Dropped to 7.0 from 7.5 few days earlier). This may not be enough.

Trying to keep ALK is stable at 7.5, CALC 425,
and Interestingly MAG dropped from 1420 to 1360 which is something that I've never seen before (Quick MAG Drop). I like being at 1360.

I'll see how things go for the next two months (Summer), and won't be wondering what's causing problems.

If I get past the Keep Alive Stage, Coloration will be something to keep me buzy in the Future.



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Old 06/29/2017, 11:58 AM   #115
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Great idea Wally!
Do you follow Big E's thread?
Between the water changes, AF components and feeding fish, you should be covered.
I'm marking June 29 on the calendar..
AT LEAST two months, no changes.


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Old 06/29/2017, 01:34 PM   #116
Wally.B
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Great idea Wally!
Do you follow Big E's thread?
Between the water changes, AF components and feeding fish, you should be covered.
I'm marking June 29 on the calendar..
AT LEAST two months, no changes.
No I don't follow Big E's thread. Please pass on, since always willing to learn.

Now you got me. In writing. No trigger happy additives, till Sept 1, 2017.

If I have any Additive withdrawal symptoms, I'll attack my other tank (which I also stopped Target feeding Coral Foods about 3 months ago, when I got busy with Doser Build. Only thing I added weekly is 5ml of Seachem Fuel, and I haven't gone back).

Hard to believe that I have that much restraint eh? Lessons of past have taught me the hard way.

With Auto Water changes, Algae Scrubber slowing down, glass cleaning too, I don't have much to do.
(Perfect for summer break, and I'm going to get back to my Commodore Amiga Retro Rebuild Project. Have a running thread on a Amiga Forum too.).


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Old 06/29/2017, 01:45 PM   #117
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Matt,

I'm very happy with the Frag Collection. Maxed out for this tank.

Can I add a couple more small fish? Will keep me busy to find something nice. Proper QT when I do, so close to Sept anyway.


BTW, Happy Canada 150th to you and all fellow Canadians.


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Old 06/29/2017, 02:46 PM   #118
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Yeah! Happy 150th!
With n under 5ppm, I would say you could probably add a couple small fish...
Ed's thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...3#post25131433
Stunning corals and seasoned knowledge.. well worth the full read through..

Sept 1.. we'll be watching.


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Old 06/29/2017, 08:58 PM   #119
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Matt,

Digging through Ed's Thread. Great stuff, amazing SPS!! Dream material for me and many.
First thing I want to do is suck up the little remaining Sand Bed I have left, since I'm having Brown Algae/Diatom on Surface.
(Was already thinking about removing it with Hose and Siphon, even before I read the thread)

I took a small precaution to Ensure "I keep my word" on "NO Additives" till Sept.



I will have a tough time with my Daughters little wooden toy hammer and the Acrlyic Sealed Box.

Now do you have faith in me?


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Old 06/29/2017, 09:55 PM   #120
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Hammer or no, Wally, you could mcgyver a way into that box with your eyes closed!!!


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Old 06/29/2017, 10:37 PM   #121
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Hammer or no, Wally, you could mcgyver a way into that box with your eyes closed!!!
No I thought of that possibility.
See that time-lock dial on the left.
There is a Titanium wired that is welded to the 50,000 Volt side of the Metal Halide Ballast.
Any attempt to open the box Before Sept 1st, will vaporise all the liquids inside.
So if I want to dose drops again, I'll have to wait.


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Old 06/29/2017, 10:53 PM   #122
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.... and I did run into one small technical issue.

The bottle of AcroPower wouldn't fit in there!!

It's almost empty (About 25ml, enough for 5x 5ml doses), so I really need to ration it.

I will wean myself off Additives slowly, or I may get the ShAkeS.

Give me a small break .

This tank setup should be as close to perfect/stable as one can get, and seeing that Sunset Mille bleaching was the last straw.
I will leave the millie in there, even it if dies, as a last reminder. Hoping it encrusts in nice Coraline. (So long as is doesn't start spreading Algae)

I really want to see what SPS Corals do Naturally for the first time ever. Trust me.



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Old 06/30/2017, 01:30 PM   #123
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TANK LOCKDOWN (No Changes) 1 Month (Entry SnapShot)

So after reading ED's thread, I got general feeling I'm on the right track with the new setup.

What I finally got an better understanding on in Circulation FLOW needed for SPS.
As he puts it "As strong as possible, without ripping skin off, and wide flow is better".
My Flow is all wide, and random, so I cranked up circulation a bit on ALL pumps, plus Return Pump(Sea Swirl), and general Circulation overnight. (Sorry Fish).

-> Dosing is stable at 12ml/Day split into 2 Doses, to Keep Alk at around 7.5-7.7.
-> Mag is a bit on High side 1400 (and AF Components have Mag/Calc in one, so will be tough to drop, but give it some time with Regular WC's and daily Stable Dosing).
-> PO4 dropped even more down to 0.03 ppm, so I slowed down the GFO reactor.
-> NO3 is still close to 5.0 ppm, and twice a week Water Changes should keep it there or lower.
-> K has dropped from 490 to 460, but again, WC and AF1,2,3 should keep that in check.



I moved the Lighting Fixture 1/4" inch down, and placed a few select loose frags a various levels on Kong Rack. S
I Split a nice Higher Light Acro compared to Bonsai into two and put each piece as two extremes. Bonsai's are at 4 different levels.
The Yellow Acro's for now remain below mid level (to be safe).


I will take close ups of each Frag for Reference, and show progress in a Month.

This is the Final Photo of Tank/Frag (FRONT and BACK with KONG Rack).



I do notice the brown algae film on the Sand Bed in the middle. Looks like a low flow area, so I may remove the sand with Siphon from there.



Also after reading ED's thread, I've decided that I also won't be feeding Corals any Commercial Specialty foods, but will increase frequency of feeding fish. (As he calls it "High Energy")

So basically it will be Water changes (Extra if needed), AF1,2,3 Dosing and Equipment maintenance. (Nothing else)

Till next month....

Wally



Last edited by Wally.B; 06/30/2017 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 06/30/2017, 01:46 PM   #124
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I'll be waiting.
And if I hear a news story about some crazy aquarist holding a bottle of acropower, who got electrocuted in his basement, I'll know what happened..


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Old 07/01/2017, 01:16 AM   #125
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As an engineer I love your approach to reefing. I am just starting a tank, so I need to take some baby steps first. Hopefully some day I can aspire to this level of automation


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