How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor. - Page 58

tjsreeftank · 01/06/2019, 11:09 PM

Can i use a 1/16 swagelock metering valve ? or is it better to use a 1/4 ?

LQT · 01/07/2019, 12:21 AM

Better to use 1/8” or 1/4”. Back in this this thread somewhere, there was an eBay guy building full regulators with 1/16” metering valves that Alanle didn’t seem to like how delicate the 1/16” metering valves were and advised against them.

tjsreeftank · 01/07/2019, 12:55 PM

Thank you for a response

biglurr54 · 01/15/2019, 10:19 AM

I am running a GEO 612 with a masterflex pump. The masterflex is pulling through the reactor. I have noticed that when I turn the co2 off, the water slowly moves up the co2 tubing towards the regulator. I placed a 5lb brass check valve right after the regulator needle valve. My concern is that the masterflex is creating a vacuum which opens the check valve with the co2 turned off. The water can then back flow through the vacuum. This only occurs when the co2 is turned off. (I am only turning the co2 off because I am trying to tune the reactor and when the Alk rises too high, I turn the co2 off until it drops then I turn it on and adjust it again.)

Also I am on metering valve #2 and can barely get any control over the bubble rate. I am using a Swagelok SS-SS4-A I can just barely crack the needle valve and it bubbles. If I move the meter 1/32 of an inch it changes the flow drastically. Its difficult to get the reactor dialed in because I am constantly messing with the metering valve. I am also not getting a consistent bubble rate. I will get a large bubble then a couple small bubbles, then nothing for a bit then a large bubble, and so on.

ReefWreak · 01/15/2019, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by biglurr54

I am running a GEO 612 with a masterflex pump. The masterflex is pulling through the reactor. I have noticed that when I turn the co2 off, the water slowly moves up the co2 tubing towards the regulator. I placed a 5lb brass check valve right after the regulator needle valve. My concern is that the masterflex is creating a vacuum which opens the check valve with the co2 turned off. The water can then back flow through the vacuum.

I think that your check valve is too high actuation pressure. If there is a vacuum from the masterflex, and it is pulling, then there would never really be a reason for water to flow up the CO2 line. I would replace with a smaller plastic check valve, and/or double-check that you're using the check valve in the correct orientation. I had to ditch the first check valve I was using (that was the higher quality one) because I noticed it was allowing the slightest trickle backwards (when the masterflex was off and the CO2 was off).

Quote:

Originally Posted by biglurr54

Also I am on metering valve #2 and can barely get any control over the bubble rate. I am using a Swagelok SS-SS4-A I can just barely crack the needle valve and it bubbles. If I move the meter 1/32 of an inch it changes the flow drastically. Its difficult to get the reactor dialed in because I am constantly messing with the metering valve. I am also not getting a consistent bubble rate. I will get a large bubble then a couple small bubbles, then nothing for a bit then a large bubble, and so on.

Since these friggin valves cost ~$75 or more, I hesitate to suggest it, but people have suggested to me that some of the reason I have a hard time with mine, is because the pin in the valve may be bent or damaged from over pressure. That may be the case for you. I have a weird issue that in the bubble counter, which is filled with water, I get a small stream of microbubbles at low flow (where it is currently set), and then it will only start bubbling fully once it gets to a higher flow point than I need (I want to say >20bpm). But lower than that flow point, it's just a strange constant stream of microbubbles.

What pressure are you outputting from the tank? I try to keep mine below 15PSI (optimally 12psi) since that's the technical operating pressure for the Swagelock low flow valve.

biglurr54 · 01/15/2019, 01:07 PM

I've been running mine at 8 psi. I might increase it to get the right psi.

Any proven check valves?

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biglurr54 · 01/15/2019, 01:42 PM

Has anyone tried using one of the cheap hobby grade needle valves?

They are used on alot of other regulators and I'm wondering if they will suffice. I have over $100 on needle valves and don't have much control. If I bought a Milwaukee reg it would come with a cheap needle valve and plenty of people use them.

Also are the check valves in the bubble counters acceptable? I might add a bubble counter to the regulator

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ReefWreak · 01/15/2019, 04:32 PM

I've been using the cheapo check valves that came with this from Amazon. I haven't even used the bubble counter yet, just the cheap check valves. So far so good, and they do lock up when I've tested them.

biglurr54 · 01/22/2019, 10:58 AM

I am struggling to get my Co2 regulator to function properly. My Regulator is an Air Gas B2-30 dual stage regulator my Solenoid is a Burkett 6011 and my metering valve is a Swalgelok SS-SS2-A. Its on a 10lb tank and it is regulated to 12lbs. I find the set pressure changes and it slowly drifts down over time. (2-3 days it will go from 14lbs to 10lbs) The same thing happens with my bubble count and my ph in the reactor. I set the bubble rate and keep an eye on it for 2-3 hours to make sure everything is stable. Then I let it sit for 24 hours with no adjustments. The pH always goes down. I have been trying to get it to hold a bubble rate and pressure since I set it up at Christmas. When I think I have it set up and working, the ph will rise up without any intervention.

I cant seem to get it balanced and my ph is all over the place. I am tempted to set it at a fast bubble count and let the solenoid do the work via the Ph controller.

I have checked the regulator for internal leaks. I have set the regulator at a certain pressure and then left it for a week at that setting (Started at 10lbs and ended up with under 5lbs which wasn’t enough to open the check valve.) The CO2 is food grade. Unknown what was in the bottle before. I have noticed that if I open the needle valve then adjust it down it seems to clear out and work for a bit. Another thing that I have noticed is every time I adjust the needle valve, the outlet pressure changes.

LQT · 01/22/2019, 12:04 PM

For your leak test procedure, did you follow the instructions on post #12 on page 1 of this thread?

biglurr54 · 01/22/2019, 12:29 PM

Yes I did.

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LQT · 01/22/2019, 12:37 PM

Did you leak test it again after the regulator build was complete? Cuz with what you’re describing, it sure does sound like there’s a leak somewhere, maybe in a fitting perhaps?

biglurr54 · 01/22/2019, 12:47 PM

I haven't tried a leak test after the build. I will do one tonight when I get home. I will also do a soap and water test.

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biglurr54 · 01/22/2019, 09:26 PM

Found a leak on the compression fitting going into the check valve. Tightened it and the leak stopped. All other areas were leak free. I tuned it in and it is holding the pH and bubble count. We shall see how it does over the next few days. It also seemed to adjust better with the needle valve.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

zip70 · 01/25/2019, 02:08 AM

Hello All,
is this one work for my Carx?
https://www.ebay.com/p/VICTOR-Compre...d=192397037207
Thanks

LQT · 01/25/2019, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zip70

Hello All,
is this one work for my Carx?
https://www.ebay.com/p/VICTOR-Compre...d=192397037207
Thanks

Yes, that’s the exact same regulator I used for my build.

zip70 · 01/26/2019, 06:48 PM

I came across this one VICTOR HTP270D- 580. IS it work for our application?

https://www.nriparts.com/item/hpt270...gulator/423340

zip70 · 01/27/2019, 12:25 AM

is this one work?
Thanks

LQT · 01/27/2019, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zip70

is this one work?
Thanks

I’m not sure... from the picture, I can’t tell if it’s a single or dual stage regulator. If the back of the regulator is flat, then it won’t work because it’s a single stage regulator.

zip70 · 01/27/2019, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LQT

I’m not sure... from the picture, I can’t tell if it’s a single or dual stage regulator. If the back of the regulator is flat, then it won’t work because it’s a single stage regulator.

Thank you LQT
It is dual stage regulator and the model is HTP270D- 580. What is the second nob from the left?

LQT · 01/27/2019, 12:59 PM

If that’s the case, then go for it!

The smaller knob on the left will be useful when you do the initial leak test in post #12. You turn the know cut off gas flow through the regulator. However, that whole assembly is usually removed when you build the post body ( connectors, elbows, solenoid, metering valve, etc).

lighthouze08 · 01/29/2019, 10:09 AM

i'm having a hard time locating a slow metering valve on ebay for my build. anyone else having much luck? years ago i was able to find a bunch of hoke 1300 series for under $40, now it's over $100?

biglurr54 · 01/30/2019, 07:51 PM

I had the same problem. Make offers on ones you can make offers on. I got my swagelok for 50 shipped. They were asking 120.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

ianrwesley · 01/31/2019, 07:16 AM

I have a swagelok metering valve up for sale in the dry goods forum. Please PM me if you are interested.

zip70 · 02/02/2019, 05:27 PM

I need this one...prefer Swagelok. I can not find the part number. Please help.

01/07/2019, 12:21 AM	#1427
LQT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Fairfield, CT Posts: 1,516	Better to use 1/8” or 1/4”. Back in this this thread somewhere, there was an eBay guy building full regulators with 1/16” metering valves that Alanle didn’t seem to like how delicate the 1/16” metering valves were and advised against them. __________________ - Leon (aka - Water Dog) Deep Blue 57 Edge ATI Acro Garden Build Thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25573384#post25573384 Current Tank Info: DeepBlue 57 Edge

01/22/2019, 12:04 PM	#1435
LQT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Fairfield, CT Posts: 1,516	For your leak test procedure, did you follow the instructions on post #12 on page 1 of this thread? __________________ - Leon (aka - Water Dog) Deep Blue 57 Edge ATI Acro Garden Build Thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25573384#post25573384 Current Tank Info: DeepBlue 57 Edge

01/22/2019, 12:37 PM	#1437
LQT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Fairfield, CT Posts: 1,516	Did you leak test it again after the regulator build was complete? Cuz with what you’re describing, it sure does sound like there’s a leak somewhere, maybe in a fitting perhaps? __________________ - Leon (aka - Water Dog) Deep Blue 57 Edge ATI Acro Garden Build Thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25573384#post25573384 Current Tank Info: DeepBlue 57 Edge

01/27/2019, 12:59 PM	#1446
LQT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Fairfield, CT Posts: 1,516	If that’s the case, then go for it! The smaller knob on the left will be useful when you do the initial leak test in post #12. You turn the know cut off gas flow through the regulator. However, that whole assembly is usually removed when you build the post body ( connectors, elbows, solenoid, metering valve, etc). __________________ - Leon (aka - Water Dog) Deep Blue 57 Edge ATI Acro Garden Build Thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25573384#post25573384 Current Tank Info: DeepBlue 57 Edge

01/29/2019, 10:09 AM	#1447
lighthouze08 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: VA Posts: 843	i'm having a hard time locating a slow metering valve on ebay for my build. anyone else having much luck? years ago i was able to find a bunch of hoke 1300 series for under $40, now it's over $100? __________________ _____________ Last edited by lighthouze08; 01/29/2019 at 10:14 AM.

01/06/2019, 11:09 PM	#1426
tjsreeftank Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: fox lake,il Posts: 85	Can i use a 1/16 swagelock metering valve ? or is it better to use a 1/4 ?

01/07/2019, 12:55 PM	#1428
tjsreeftank Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: fox lake,il Posts: 85	Thank you for a response

01/15/2019, 10:19 AM	#1429
biglurr54 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Averill Park NY Posts: 406	I am running a GEO 612 with a masterflex pump. The masterflex is pulling through the reactor. I have noticed that when I turn the co2 off, the water slowly moves up the co2 tubing towards the regulator. I placed a 5lb brass check valve right after the regulator needle valve. My concern is that the masterflex is creating a vacuum which opens the check valve with the co2 turned off. The water can then back flow through the vacuum. This only occurs when the co2 is turned off. (I am only turning the co2 off because I am trying to tune the reactor and when the Alk rises too high, I turn the co2 off until it drops then I turn it on and adjust it again.) Also I am on metering valve #2 and can barely get any control over the bubble rate. I am using a Swagelok SS-SS4-A I can just barely crack the needle valve and it bubbles. If I move the meter 1/32 of an inch it changes the flow drastically. Its difficult to get the reactor dialed in because I am constantly messing with the metering valve. I am also not getting a consistent bubble rate. I will get a large bubble then a couple small bubbles, then nothing for a bit then a large bubble, and so on.

01/15/2019, 01:07 PM	#1431
biglurr54 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Averill Park NY Posts: 406	I've been running mine at 8 psi. I might increase it to get the right psi. Any proven check valves? Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

01/15/2019, 01:42 PM	#1432
biglurr54 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Averill Park NY Posts: 406	Has anyone tried using one of the cheap hobby grade needle valves? They are used on alot of other regulators and I'm wondering if they will suffice. I have over $100 on needle valves and don't have much control. If I bought a Milwaukee reg it would come with a cheap needle valve and plenty of people use them. Also are the check valves in the bubble counters acceptable? I might add a bubble counter to the regulator Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

01/15/2019, 04:32 PM	#1433
ReefWreak Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Astoria, NYC Posts: 10,159	I've been using the cheapo check valves that came with this from Amazon. I haven't even used the bubble counter yet, just the cheap check valves. So far so good, and they do lock up when I've tested them.

01/22/2019, 10:58 AM	#1434
biglurr54 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Averill Park NY Posts: 406	I am struggling to get my Co2 regulator to function properly. My Regulator is an Air Gas B2-30 dual stage regulator my Solenoid is a Burkett 6011 and my metering valve is a Swalgelok SS-SS2-A. Its on a 10lb tank and it is regulated to 12lbs. I find the set pressure changes and it slowly drifts down over time. (2-3 days it will go from 14lbs to 10lbs) The same thing happens with my bubble count and my ph in the reactor. I set the bubble rate and keep an eye on it for 2-3 hours to make sure everything is stable. Then I let it sit for 24 hours with no adjustments. The pH always goes down. I have been trying to get it to hold a bubble rate and pressure since I set it up at Christmas. When I think I have it set up and working, the ph will rise up without any intervention. I cant seem to get it balanced and my ph is all over the place. I am tempted to set it at a fast bubble count and let the solenoid do the work via the Ph controller. I have checked the regulator for internal leaks. I have set the regulator at a certain pressure and then left it for a week at that setting (Started at 10lbs and ended up with under 5lbs which wasn’t enough to open the check valve.) The CO2 is food grade. Unknown what was in the bottle before. I have noticed that if I open the needle valve then adjust it down it seems to clear out and work for a bit. Another thing that I have noticed is every time I adjust the needle valve, the outlet pressure changes.

01/22/2019, 12:29 PM	#1436
biglurr54 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Averill Park NY Posts: 406	Yes I did. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

01/22/2019, 12:47 PM	#1438
biglurr54 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Averill Park NY Posts: 406	I haven't tried a leak test after the build. I will do one tonight when I get home. I will also do a soap and water test. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

01/22/2019, 09:26 PM	#1439
biglurr54 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Averill Park NY Posts: 406	Found a leak on the compression fitting going into the check valve. Tightened it and the leak stopped. All other areas were leak free. I tuned it in and it is holding the pH and bubble count. We shall see how it does over the next few days. It also seemed to adjust better with the needle valve. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

01/25/2019, 02:08 AM	#1440
zip70 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 84	Hello All, is this one work for my Carx? https://www.ebay.com/p/VICTOR-Compre...d=192397037207 Thanks

01/26/2019, 06:48 PM	#1442
zip70 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 84	I came across this one VICTOR HTP270D- 580. IS it work for our application? https://www.nriparts.com/item/hpt270...gulator/423340

01/30/2019, 07:51 PM	#1448
biglurr54 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Averill Park NY Posts: 406	I had the same problem. Make offers on ones you can make offers on. I got my swagelok for 50 shipped. They were asking 120. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

01/31/2019, 07:16 AM	#1449
ianrwesley Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 101	I have a swagelok metering valve up for sale in the dry goods forum. Please PM me if you are interested.