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Unread 10/25/2013, 05:37 PM   #1
Parker7
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50gallon reef under attack by algae

Hi guys so Idk if any one can help me out with this but lately I've had a massive issue with algae and its killing me inside
I have a 50 gallon tank with a 10-15 gallon sump with chato mangroves, a red sea prizim skimmer and 2 bags of 10 oz chemi pure, I would guess 70-100 pounds of rock in the tank and its DOMINATED by reef its just every were I have a vortech mp 40 an mp 10 a 500 gph power head and a 1200gph power head in the tank and maxspect Mazzara p series leds I only have 2 small clowns 1 is 3/4th an inch the other is 1 inch I have a 4 inch purple tang and a 1 1/2 inch candy cane goby I do 15 gallon water changes every 2 weeks or every week does any one have any advice?


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Unread 10/25/2013, 06:09 PM   #2
acabgd
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Without your parameters and the type of algae you have problem with, I doubt that anyone can help you.


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Unread 10/25/2013, 06:20 PM   #3
bader
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I would drop the Chem pure . Are you running a gfo reactor or carbon if not u should be


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Unread 10/25/2013, 06:29 PM   #4
Dsotto
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Post some pictures and water parameters if you can.


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Unread 10/25/2013, 08:25 PM   #5
Parker7
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Specific gravity 1.026
PH 8.2
Phosphate .64 ppm at the very highest I'm using the red sea kit for this
And nitrate 10-20 ppm
Its mostly hair algae and no I dont run gfo or a carbon reactor I only have the chemical pure carbon on each side of my return pump and the plants
I'm sorry the photos are sideways and attachments because I'm using taptalk


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Unread 10/26/2013, 05:44 AM   #6
Dsotto
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There are many things to be tried in this. I would make a couple of reactors my next purchase, one for gfo and one for carbon. I don't like my nitrates to be that high or phosphates. Check your source water and make sure ro filters are not bad. Make sure you feed in proportion to your tank and it's inhabitants. Minimal amount in your case. Reduce the time your lights are on depending on your lighting schedule as of now. I believe a sea hare would eat the algae. I can't quite tell if that is green hair or green turf algae. Maybe someone else could add a few more things where I left off.


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Unread 10/26/2013, 09:31 AM   #7
steelwrap
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Marine algeafix will kill the HA on the rocks then work on getting phosphates down .03 is where you want to be


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Unread 10/26/2013, 09:43 AM   #8
Josh40996
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I think its safe to say that this is from a nutrient issue. You may want to up WC's and husbandry and run GFO for the time being until your algae is gone and Nitrate/Phosphate are much lower.


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Unread 10/26/2013, 09:45 AM   #9
Touring
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker7 View Post
Specific gravity 1.026
PH 8.2
Phosphate .64 ppm at the very highest I'm using the red sea kit for this
And nitrate 10-20 ppm
Its mostly hair algae and no I dont run gfo or a carbon reactor I only have the chemical pure carbon on each side of my return pump and the plants
I'm sorry the photos are sideways and attachments because I'm using taptalk
And your okay with these levels? I think you answered your own question


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Unread 10/26/2013, 10:30 AM   #10
brandon429
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If your tank was mine simple things would happen.

100% water change. Put fish in bucket, change water, re acclimate, Challenge thread rock cleaning technique. Gfo use, skimmer dialed in sized correctly for this size tank. Never see algae again, ever, starting in a week.
Repeat as needed

Or you can use methods that take months, your choice. Notice the above is a set of deliberate actions. I agree nutrients are high and eutrophication is set in.


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Unread 10/26/2013, 02:31 PM   #11
Sk8r
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Phosphate in excess is my guess. GFO or NPX. Takes a little time, but everything will be happier if you can get the phosphate way down.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 10/26/2013, 04:14 PM   #12
buffalo123
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Hard to believe we ran reef without GFO just a few years ago and still keep reef not dominated by algae.
Try doing weekly water changes 10-20%. remove as much algae as u can. You should notice algae weaken


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Unread 10/27/2013, 12:47 AM   #13
jmoney 402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon429 View Post
If your tank was mine simple things would happen.

100% water change. Put fish in bucket, change water, re acclimate, Challenge thread rock cleaning technique. Gfo use, skimmer dialed in sized correctly for this size tank. Never see algae again, ever, starting in a week.
Repeat as needed

Or you can use methods that take months, your choice. Notice the above is a set of deliberate actions. I agree nutrients are high and eutrophication is set in.
If you do a 100% water change, will the new water go through a cycle again?


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Unread 10/27/2013, 03:09 AM   #14
Dsotto
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If you do a 100% water change, will the new water go through a cycle again?
Yeah I wouldn't do 100% of water. I would manually remove as much algae as possible and do a 50% change and then wait to do another 50% change in a week. The source of the problem still needs to be discovered though (excessive feeding, source water, rocks leaching, etc.)


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Unread 10/27/2013, 05:21 AM   #15
sh0ck
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How long you are running that 50g ?
With these NO3/PO4 values it is not strange to have algae.
Better not commenting on purple tang in that state.


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Unread 10/27/2013, 10:01 AM   #16
D-Nak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dsotto View Post
There are many things to be tried in this. I would make a couple of reactors my next purchase, one for gfo and one for carbon. I don't like my nitrates to be that high or phosphates. Check your source water and make sure ro filters are not bad. Make sure you feed in proportion to your tank and it's inhabitants. Minimal amount in your case. Reduce the time your lights are on depending on your lighting schedule as of now. I believe a sea hare would eat the algae. I can't quite tell if that is green hair or green turf algae. Maybe someone else could add a few more things where I left off.
This sounds like the best approach.

How are you making your salt water? Are you using tap water or RO/DI or buying pre-made salt water? If the problem is in your source water, you're not going to see any improvements with water changes.

With most phosphate test kits, your results should be close to 0. The logic is that if you have algae they are consuming phosphate, so even though the reading is 0, you probably have phosphate in your system.

Aside from the above, you can also dim your lights a bit and see how it affects your corals.


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Unread 10/27/2013, 10:29 AM   #17
brandon429
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The answer to the question about the full water change is no. I do them all the time, it doesn't re cycle. Try all other methods for months, then when you want it fixed let's just fix it. Easy fix. Takes some elbow grease

People do not realize that you can force a reef to be algae free, they think it's part luck and skill that is only for some to attain. Not having full command over what cycles a tank and what doesn't causes deliberate actions to take a back seat to second guessing. Fear of destabilizing a tank causes inaction.


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Unread 10/27/2013, 10:37 AM   #18
brandon429
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Part of the correct action for this tank is thoroughly cleaning out detritus stores in and among the rock, the tank needs to be taken down and cleaned, and this can be done with no re cycle, depending on who you believe. I will add this however... Common methods were followed, and common outcomes were attained. Take more common corrections, watch your tank bounce around for months. Coral recession due to gfo over stripping comes next.


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