Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > Special Interest Group (SIG) Forums > Large Reef Tanks
Blogs FAQ Calendar

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 03/12/2009, 06:38 PM   #1
nivenethan
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 251
Humidity & Temp control - 600 gallon fish room

Boy oh boy....I am setting up a built in 300 gallon tank with another 300 gallons in multiple other sumps and tanks. The equipment room and tank will be completely sealed off from the rest of the house and located in the basement. This is a brand new and expensive house and can't risk any moisture problems. I live in Iowa...temps range from 100 in summer to -5 in winter. Humidity can be brutal 90% + in winter and very dry in winter.

Any ideas would be AWESOME!. I had an HVAC contractor engineer and quote me a system and they recommend a split AC system and a Desert Aire dehumidifier. Great right?.......except it comes with a $6,000 price tag!!!! Cant do that.

Please help. Anyone with a quality and effective system in place?

Thanks, Darren


__________________
Darren

Current Tank Info: 300 gal *******, 8 AI Sol White, 100 g lps tank tied to main system w/ 2 Radions,BK SM300, Apex, Geo 624 Ca, Avast kalk stirrer, BRS jumbo GFO, BRS Jumbo Carbon, lots of ColeParmer peristaltic pumps, 2MP60ES, 2MP40ES, 250 gal MRC custom sump
nivenethan is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03/12/2009, 06:50 PM   #2
AS
Registered Member
 
AS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
I have 500 Gal Tank with a seperate room (no heat or ac) with another 300 gal in the seperate fish room. I have a standard bathroom exhaust fan in that goes outside. I also have a LG dehumidifier (typical home size). I do not have any issues and tank maintain a constant 78 degrees (no chiller)

The only thing that I plan to modify is to wire the fan into my Neptune AC3 to automate on / off control.

Also new large house.


AS is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03/12/2009, 08:12 PM   #3
nivenethan
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 251
Quote:
Originally posted by AS
I have 500 Gal Tank with a seperate room (no heat or ac) with another 300 gal in the seperate fish room. I have a standard bathroom exhaust fan in that goes outside. I also have a LG dehumidifier (typical home size). I do not have any issues and tank maintain a constant 78 degrees (no chiller)

The only thing that I plan to modify is to wire the fan into my Neptune AC3 to automate on / off control.

Also new large house.
So...exhaust fan and dehumidifier? Man that would be great!

Is the display tank mounted in the wall so that it is in the same room as the sump?

Are you drawing in any fresh air from the rest of the house?

How long have you had it set up this way?

Is the fish room sealed off from the house with sheetrock and insulated walls?

What kind of lighting are you using?

Does your dehumidifier run constantly?

Does your exhaust fan run constantly?

Are you venting exhaust through the roof or side of your house?

Sorry for all the questions, but humidity and temp really has me concerned?

Thank you!!


__________________
Darren

Current Tank Info: 300 gal *******, 8 AI Sol White, 100 g lps tank tied to main system w/ 2 Radions,BK SM300, Apex, Geo 624 Ca, Avast kalk stirrer, BRS jumbo GFO, BRS Jumbo Carbon, lots of ColeParmer peristaltic pumps, 2MP60ES, 2MP40ES, 250 gal MRC custom sump
nivenethan is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03/12/2009, 10:04 PM   #4
ReefWaters
Premium Member
 
ReefWaters's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,521
I have a cheap dehumidifier and I hate it. It is extremely loud and annoying. It runs 24/7 to maintain 60% humidity in my fish room. It is also plumbed directly to my floor drain. I have about 350 gallons total right now and plan to add about another 200 gallons. If the dehumidifier cuts off I will have standing condensation on every surface in the room within 20 minutes or less.

I also have an A/C unit in the room that helps to maintain the room temperate at 77 to 78 (tank temperature). I had hoped this would pull more moisture out of the room but it doesn't. If I turn the A/C off, the room will heat up well past my comfort level.

I am about to install a vent fan through the roof with a fresh air intake as well unless I discover something better before I cut holes in my ceiling and roof. Unless you are looking into a very large and very expensive dehumidifier, I would not waste your time.

But that is just my opinion based on my experience. I would like to hear what others have to say as well.


__________________
"No, No, No, Lightspeed is too slow... We're gonna have to go right to LUDICROUSspeed"

Current Tank Info: Taking a break for a while. Still Reading and Researching every day though.
ReefWaters is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03/31/2009, 11:08 PM   #5
dahenley
Registered Member
 
dahenley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 3,165
Im tagging along and hope to hear from more people too.
Thanks


__________________
Its not just my tank, its OUR tank!!! :-)

240display, reef in progress

Current Tank Info: 240 display, a few frags here and there. lots of fish, and lots of watching. (230 big screen getting re-sealed and going to add to the gallonage) My wife has no clue how addicted i really am.....
dahenley is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04/01/2009, 07:35 AM   #6
mm949
Registered Member
 
mm949's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: chicago
Posts: 1,843
ventalation is the key....i have 6000gl in only 1000sq' of space

i run a large adjustable speed exhaust fan to pull air out of the room....keeping the water temp a few degrees below room temp will help ruduce evaporation levels and humidity

its also a good idea to insulate the room to stop colder air from outside getting in...this is the major issue with condensation and mold in colder months.....summer is easier by opening a window

i also tried the whole dehumidifier thing and for me it seemed to make matters worse by creating alot of heat and sucked more evaporated water from the tanks


__________________
219"x30"x48" - 1350gl reef

Current Tank Info: ...18ft of double sided goodness
mm949 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04/08/2009, 11:08 AM   #7
wmilas
Keep magnets 9" apart!
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lemont, Il
Posts: 1,023
The dehumidifier thing just doesn't work.

I have 1000 gallons in my fishroom which is completely sealed from the rest of the house. You need to make sure its sealed, water tight, and insulated. Once thats the case you don't CARE what humidity level it is in the room. What you care about is the temperature. You want to control temperature so that you don't need to use a chiller.

So, install 2 fantech fans. One pulls air from outside the house and dumps into the room. The other pushes air out from the other side of the room. Put a large fan on the sump. (I use one of those that is elevated on a stand). When your temp gets too high, both fantechs kick on and dump humidity out, fan on sump kicks on increasing humidity in the now under-saturated air and brings down tank temperature. Evaporative cooling is far and away the cheapest way to cool your tank. The reason you need two fantech fans is that if the room is sealed, you can't just exhaust or you create a vacuum and you won't be dumping air. You need makeup air to come from somewhere... in this case outside the house.

In the summer time you will have an issue. You can't take hot moist air from the outside. You have 2 choices. Install a T on the intake and pull air from inside the house. Then dump it outside. You'll be using your house air conditioner to be doing the chilling for you.

The second is to install a split system. IMHO with the system described you won't need it... I don't need it and I have more water than you in the same climate (chicago).

You MUST install close-able flappers. One on the inside of the fish room on the air input (makeup air) and one on the outside of the house on your exhaust air. This will ensure that air doesn't leak out of your fish room.

IMHO this is the best of all worlds. Mine is a little more complex than this as my makeup air actually goes through one of my large whole house HEPAS's first. I also don't run the fans full bore in the summer. To get every last bit out of the house air, I run the fans so they turn over the fish room air one time. I run the fan over the sump till it completely saturates the fishroom air, then dump it again with 1 turn over. This is all easily doable with something as simple as a good controller like a AC 3 Pro and a little bit of math... you don't need a humidity controller.

The key is contain the moist hot air in the fishroom so it can't escape to the rest of your house. You can then manage it with ease.


__________________
120x36x30 acrylic display, 1000 gallon sps with lots o fish
wmilas is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04/08/2009, 08:40 PM   #8
BradR
Registered Member
 
BradR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Michigan
Posts: 764
Blog Entries: 1
A heat recovery ventilator is the way to go.
Just be sure to get a metal or polypropylene, not paper film, heat exchanger.
It'll pay for itself pretty quick over a bathroom fan.
Dehumidifiers consume electricity like crazy.

HRV info


BradR is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04/08/2009, 11:16 PM   #9
NexDog
Snail Killer
 
NexDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kyushu, Japan
Posts: 4,804
I have 450 gallons of water in my fish room. Tank is in-wall so room is pretty much sealed. I have an AC unit in there that is rated for a 4m x 3m room and I keep it on 24/7 from May to October. Run it during the day only in April and November. Have an exhaust fan that is hooked up to the light hood so extracts that hot air. I think my water temp averages at 81.5 in the really hot months (average 110F with 176767696976% humidity).


__________________
Laurence Flynn

340g In-Wall Envision Tank and 150g Sump.

Current Tank Info: Deltec 902, PFO hood with 3x400w Radium 20k and 4x96w PC's. Hammerhead closed loop - and 2 x Tunze 6105 (and Vortech still sucks).
NexDog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04/09/2009, 09:53 AM   #10
wmilas
Keep magnets 9" apart!
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lemont, Il
Posts: 1,023
The problem with a HRV is that if its a sealed room,you don't WANT to save the heat. You want to dump it. Thats the whole idea.

I have 2 HRV's for my house and they work great. For the fishroom ,they would be working opposite to what I would want.


__________________
120x36x30 acrylic display, 1000 gallon sps with lots o fish
wmilas is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04/09/2009, 10:32 AM   #11
BradR
Registered Member
 
BradR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Michigan
Posts: 764
Blog Entries: 1
True wmilas. In the summer you can disable the heat exchange function so it works like a bathroom fan. In the winter you re-enable it to save on your heating bill.


BradR is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04/10/2009, 12:11 PM   #12
flworkd
Registered Member
 
flworkd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Land O' Lakes, Florida
Posts: 353
soon i will start build 96x36w x 25h
and i will use a Humidity Sensing Fan

http://www.nutone.com/product-detail...roductID=11229


__________________
Jae Kang

Current Tank Info: DIY 4'x 8' Reef / Royal Alpha 300 cone skimmer / DIY LED
flworkd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.