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03/28/2012, 06:10 AM | #2576 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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03/28/2012, 06:43 AM | #2577 | |
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Another idea was to cut an angle on the tube and then attach a small sheet of acrylic to to it. |
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03/28/2012, 08:41 AM | #2578 |
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nivram, what are you trying to make?
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03/28/2012, 11:55 AM | #2579 |
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Im sure it has been covered however I cant seem to find it. Looking for what is the best, or what people have used successfully with table saw blades. I am looking for a 10in blade. If you could direct me to which name brand and type that would be great thank you
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"I glue animals to rocks" Current Tank Info: 30 gal reef tank, 90gal reef-140 gal system |
03/28/2012, 12:07 PM | #2580 |
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Diablo I think 80 tooth blade at Home Depot, there's one that specifically calls out that it's for plastics, about $80
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03/28/2012, 12:10 PM | #2581 |
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excellent...thank you
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"I glue animals to rocks" Current Tank Info: 30 gal reef tank, 90gal reef-140 gal system |
03/28/2012, 12:22 PM | #2582 |
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This is the blade that I use and it works great...is the same 80 tooth blade Floyd mentioned. Its labeled as an "Ultra Finish" blade and not specifically geared to plastics.
Best part though is its cheaper...$49.99 http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051 I also use basically the same blade on a 7 1/4" circular saw, however its a 60-tooth and works great. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051 That one is only $19.99 and gives me absolutely no issues...even on a $50 circular saw. Case in point...recently on the 85gal tank pictured previously the customer changed their mind on the tank height mid-build...reducing it from 24 to 21 inches. I could have denied them as all 4 walls were already welded together, but I obliged them. Using that $20 blad and a $50 circular saw I was able to lop 3 inches off the tank, reroute the edges and move onto welding on the top. |
03/28/2012, 02:36 PM | #2583 | |
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I had the tank built by advanced acryics, yes, it is rimless. |
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03/28/2012, 02:52 PM | #2584 |
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I speak from a position of more experience than your average DIY hobbyist, but less than that of most tank fabricators.
In general I would say what I said before, those seams are probably fine. But since this tank came from a fabricator I would have to say it's not the highest quality job. Personally I wouldn't have let that tank go out the door looking like that without offering a discount. A production/custom tank should, IMO, have darn near perfect seams, maybe the unavoidable bubble or two, but nothing like what you have my friend. But that's me. I'm like James said once, I pull my hair out over one little bubble. The reality is that acrylic is very strong so it's probably fine. I read here and there about Advanced Acrylics and the guy doing good work but not having good customer service. Mainly it was things like communication and not meeting deadlines very well. Just my 2c.
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03/28/2012, 03:09 PM | #2585 |
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Yeah, this is my 4th tank from him actually, all the others have been good, with the occasional bubble or 2, He's always been good with communication, shipping ect. I've reccomended him to bunch of people. But i've sent him pictures and asked a few questions, and all I got was "its fine". which kind of disappoints me. I've literally just installed brand new laminate floors 2 days ago, and I don't trust this tank. I'd like to set it up and enjoy it, but I think i'm always going to have the worry of it failing. Not worth putting all my money and time into it, just to see it either fail, or start to get worse, id rather spend the money now on a new tank, done right, and not have to worry about it. I'm not sure on what to do.
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03/28/2012, 03:13 PM | #2586 |
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03/28/2012, 04:01 PM | #2587 | |
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Quote:
It looks like he also did quite a large corner round. We had a frag fest last weekend and one of the guys had 2 tanks made out of 3/8" with the corners really rounded like this, one had a corner repaired with weldon, the other with packing tape, and he had a 3rd tank that was busted an not there. One tank at MACNA had to be repaired because the corner cracked out (but it was dropped). IMO putting that huge roundover on the corner creates a weak area, even though it looks real nice. I guess if you don't move it a lot like frag sellers do, no problem. So not to make you more nervous, just saying what I've seen. I still agree that if you set it up on a flat surface and you aren't moving it around a lot, you're going to be fine. If you do start to see problems, it will be a slow process not all at once - not with material that thick.
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03/28/2012, 08:47 PM | #2588 |
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Thanks Floyd and Adam for the reassurance.
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03/28/2012, 09:44 PM | #2589 |
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Thanks for the advice
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03/30/2012, 05:44 PM | #2590 |
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If I am using 1" acrylic what is the maximum span I can go without bracing?
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03/31/2012, 08:50 AM | #2591 |
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Also I only plan on making the tank 18" tall
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03/31/2012, 10:11 AM | #2592 |
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Hi all
Just looking for some advise...... I have a large water container made from acrylic that I will use to store RODI water in. It has been made now for over two weeks, I have thoroughly washed it with warm soapy water, then vinegar and more washes with just warm water. But there is still a glue smell? Is it ok to start storing water in it? Unfortunately I am not sure what glue was used. Thanks to all I advance!
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NEVER get eye level with an infants anus! New build, planning stages. 30 x 20 x 20", Geisemann Spectra 250W with Radium, Profilux controller, Profilux doser 2, Fluval SP4 return pump, Life Reef 28 |
03/31/2012, 10:28 AM | #2593 | |
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Quote:
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Never try to understand water and electricity. The more you think you know the less you do. Sweet! I just won a bid to install a 5500gal system in paradise. Current Tank Info: Big |
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04/01/2012, 06:08 PM | #2594 |
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When I'm gluing two pieces together, if I'm getting a pool on the opposite side when using the pins method, I am using too much solvent?
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04/01/2012, 07:17 PM | #2595 |
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Quick question acrylic to gel coat on a tank leaking what can i use to fix this
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04/01/2012, 08:06 PM | #2596 | ||
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Quote:
Glue on foam and before putting pins in check to see if there are any large gaps and shim those before even pinning. Then pin and shim as needed to keep all the pins snug before fillling the joint. Keep the needle moving and solvent flowing, sometimes it just takes practice. Quote:
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04/01/2012, 10:14 PM | #2597 |
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Thanks Floyd,
I'll try using smaller wires. Also another issue I was having was when the needle would go over the pins some of the pins gets knocked out or moved. Any suggestions? Btw, I'm doing these on scrap pieces to get some practice. |
04/01/2012, 10:19 PM | #2598 |
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acrylic thickness question
i am thinking of building a 36"x36"x24" tank..
just like to know the recommended thickness will have a full top with panels cut out for access, just like to price out the difference between glass and plastic thanks chris |
04/01/2012, 10:47 PM | #2599 |
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I use 28 gauge wire from home depot. if the pins move and fall out then your joint isn't tight enough. that's where wood shims come in. I use packs of cedar shingles from Menards and break them up. I pin the joint and put the shims in on the loose pins, that usually loosens other pins so you have to go around a few times and check them all, every one of them should be snug enough so that you can't tug on them lightly and pull them out. Then I blow the whole joint with canned air which will also reveal loose pins
you can see a few here.
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04/02/2012, 06:47 AM | #2600 | |
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Thanks for any help!
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NEVER get eye level with an infants anus! New build, planning stages. 30 x 20 x 20", Geisemann Spectra 250W with Radium, Profilux controller, Profilux doser 2, Fluval SP4 return pump, Life Reef 28 |
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