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Unread 04/01/2009, 09:24 AM   #326
teesquare
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Chuggy:
Are you refering to the vertical slots rocketbooy5 did...? Or the "Beananimal" style overflow altogether?
T


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Unread 04/01/2009, 02:20 PM   #327
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Quote:
Originally posted by MSU Fan
Sorry Bean, I kept trying to post back on this but RC kept crashing every time I tried.

The flushing was intermittent - could be every 5 mins (or less), every 15 mins, or hours apart. I did say was because I haven't heard it do that in a while. So maybe the pipe just needed slime up? Or the process become more regulated (over time)? Not really sure, but like I said, it seems to have worked itself out. Thanks.
Just to provide an update: Bean, since I wrote the post to you about the flushing situation, I haven't heard it flush since then!!! So I guess all I needed to do was mention the issue and bam! It's fixed. I wish more of my problems were fixed this way.


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Unread 04/01/2009, 05:03 PM   #328
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Beananimal" style overflow altogether?


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Unread 04/01/2009, 05:21 PM   #329
teesquare
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Chuggy:
Was your remark in reference to the one immediately prior to yours -OR- were you sying that you used the coast to coast style overflow as originally described in this thread...
Capiche?


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Unread 04/01/2009, 05:26 PM   #330
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i was just saying how much i loved the silent fail safe overflow i also included the calfo coast to coast in my setup i love them both awesome surface skimming and silent overflow what could be better im ****ed i set my 120 up with hob overflows they suck and should be banned. -


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Unread 04/02/2009, 09:14 PM   #331
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Hey, I was wondering exactly where the return would go. Could it plumbed into the same overflow box as the rest of the three pipes? If anyone can post a picture of their plumbed return, that'd be great.


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Unread 04/02/2009, 11:25 PM   #332
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my tank will have the C2C and my returns are going through the back of tank then 90 down through bottom of overflow, will post pics when i get the tank back. tank will be here next week. then i setup my beanflow


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Unread 04/04/2009, 08:07 PM   #333
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Wow what a great read! My hat is off to Bean for his knowledge, patience and most of all for being so unselfish with his time by answering everyone's questions! Now, of course, I also have a question for the group. I want to keep the top center of the back of my tank clear of plumbing so would there be any issues with running two narrow internal weirs on opposite ends of the back wall of the tank and piping the water down to one external overflow box that is roughly 12-15" below the water line?

Thanks,
Mark


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Unread 04/05/2009, 05:34 PM   #334
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I'm having a little trouble with the down-elbow siphon line not starting up reliable. sometimes the level rises until the open vented line starts up instead. It's like the siphone line is vapor locked with air trapped.
The discharge of the lines are below water in the sump, which I believe is correct. Anyone experienced this? Suggestions?


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Unread 04/05/2009, 06:54 PM   #335
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Sounds like yoiur discharge line (the siphon one) is too far below the water. It probably should be no more than about an inch under water. The less underwater the pipe is - the easier it is for it to purge the air out on start up due to less back pressure I think.


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Unread 04/06/2009, 10:17 AM   #336
MrSpiffy
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Bean,

Any thoughts on this setup? It's going to be basically what you posted initially, but I was thinking of spreading the drains apart. Is it best to keep the drains together? Or would this be fine? It's a 65-gallon, btw.




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Unread 04/06/2009, 11:38 AM   #337
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MrSpiffy - I don't think that it matters whether the drains are close or far apart. However, it will make a huge difference if the overflow box is not level. If that is the case, I am not sure that the drain system will work as planned.


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Unread 04/06/2009, 11:46 AM   #338
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FWIW, I filled my 90g with water while it was setting on the stand and before I siliconed in the baffles. I used the water as a level so I could mark the location of my baffles and get them just right. My 4' bubble level was almost 1/4" off over the 4' length of the tank!


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Unread 04/06/2009, 03:23 PM   #339
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That's a good idea, oldsaltman. I may try that, just to make sure it's right. Or I'll check my tank on the stand to make sure it's truly level before siliconing anything.


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Unread 04/06/2009, 03:27 PM   #340
oldsaltman
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I would fill the tank with water if you can. The stand may settle some after the tank is filled.


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Unread 04/06/2009, 03:33 PM   #341
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The stand is already in use with my 40BR. I'm thinking that settling is already finished and the carpet has been compressed. But definitely something to consider, just in case. Thanks!


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Unread 04/06/2009, 04:01 PM   #342
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Will this work?

Quote:
Originally posted by stormrider27
Wow what a great read! My hat is off to Bean for his knowledge, patience and most of all for being so unselfish with his time by answering everyone's questions! Now, of course, I also have a question for the group. I want to keep the top center of the back of my tank clear of plumbing so would there be any issues with running two narrow internal weirs on opposite ends of the back wall of the tank and piping the water down to one external overflow box that is roughly 12-15" below the water line?

Thanks,
Mark



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Unread 04/06/2009, 08:06 PM   #343
dzhuo
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what return pump you guys are using to match the drain rate assuming 1.5" holes were drilled? thx!


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Unread 04/06/2009, 08:12 PM   #344
teesquare
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Are you saying 1.5" PIPE or 1.5" HOLES?


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Unread 04/06/2009, 08:19 PM   #345
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great thread, hope to try this method someday, for now I'll deal with the loud noise from the sump.

But to get started I have a tank that is predrilled in the bottom, back left corner with a black overflow from the top to the bottom. There are two holes for two 1.5" pipes. The one pipe is a dorso stand pipe and the other is the return pipe. The glass is tempered. Is there a way of doing this type of plumbing with only two holes?


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Unread 04/06/2009, 08:24 PM   #346
teesquare
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The closest you can come to this method that I have seen is the "Herbie method".
Good, but does not have the built in safety that Bean has figured out
T


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Unread 04/06/2009, 08:28 PM   #347
dzhuo
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Quote:
Originally posted by teesquare
Are you saying 1.5" PIPE or 1.5" HOLES?
It's 1.5" pipe, not holes sorry.


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Unread 04/06/2009, 08:33 PM   #348
uncleof6
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Not if you want to keep the third safety drain. Granted, the third pipe should be "dry" unless the other two plug up. With no other options such removing the overflow and popping some holes in the back, for a different style overflow, you are kinda stuck with just the two drains. Those two drains will perform as expected. As long as you don't further modify things. (provided you can fit them in the corner overflow. ) Bean hasn't been here for a while, dunno why.

HTH,

Jim


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Unread 04/07/2009, 05:04 PM   #349
Reefer2727
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Thanks for all the info. I am about to have my tank drilled and have a few questions.

The tank is a 75 gallon with a 35 gallon sump. I am wondering what size holes should I have drilled? And what size bulkhead? I know Bean used a 1" bulkhead and says larger would work. Is it just easier to go with 1.5" bulkhead if all the plumbing will also be 1.5"??

Also, I hear some people say that they have a hard time getting the siphon line going usually due to air trapped in the pipe. Would anyone recommend drilling this siphon drain hole a little lower than the vented open drain and the emergency drain? If so, how much lower?

Thanks again.


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Unread 04/07/2009, 05:10 PM   #350
teesquare
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Yes - drill the vented line's hole 1/4'' to 1/2" higher than the siphon line.
For a 75g - 1" is what bean has recommended earlier in the thread. I like larger, only because it allows for future higher flow rates is desired - tho I doubt you would need more......
T


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