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02/04/2016, 03:16 AM | #2951 | ||||
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On a general note, I do not profess to be any sort of expert compared to some on this thread but my overall recommendation is to do things slowly and observe. If things are improving you will not see it from day to day but you will from week to week. Take a photo of one piece of rock or area of sand and compare that exact place at the same time in the lighting cycle a week later and so on. One thing I noticed when things started to improve were more beneficial (i.e. algae-eating) asterina starfish on the glass. I saw none of them when dinos were at their peak. They could have been being consumed by the sand-sifters or it might just have been there was no algae for them to eat while the dinos were outcompeting. Who knows? So my advice (1) Don't give up but try different things as advised on this thread (2) Do things slowly (3) Do not expect quick results but observe minute incremental signs of change. I hope this does not come across as a smug "I've conquered this" as I certainly have not but I fully understand the vicissitudes others are experiencing! |
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02/04/2016, 08:36 AM | #2952 | |
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as for coralline, i've noticed the same correlation in the past when i've had blooms however i don't necessarily think they eat coralline as opposed to them creating an environment where coralline can't grow...when i've had dinos, they tend to do messed up things to your alk and throw your parameters all over the place...i think coralline likes stability as coralline is a nice indication of a healthy tank this is my tank today...i think i'm about 10+ months dino free...notice the coralline in the back glass? |
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02/04/2016, 08:42 AM | #2953 | |
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and also i do agree with you on your first point...i think it's fairly safe to assume your dino was introduced...there are many ULNS tanks out there without this problem and it takes just 1 dino cell introduced in that environment to create havoc...however, that 1 dino cell can definitely come from anything - fish, live rock, coral, etc. as they definitely are everywhere so at some point in our hobby where we're trading corals and buying fish from others, i think it's also fairly safe to assume everyone has a very high chance of getting it at some point and many probably already have it but have conditions that aren't favorable for them to bloom Last edited by PorkchopExpress; 02/04/2016 at 08:48 AM. |
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02/04/2016, 09:19 AM | #2954 |
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Maybe a survey here:
Who has used UV and been successful? Who has used UV and not been successful? I'm UV + success
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02/04/2016, 09:23 AM | #2955 |
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02/04/2016, 09:27 AM | #2956 |
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both...i first used UV when i had an AIO 34 gallon tank, removed half the sand, 3 day blackout, and UV
i then moved, upgraded to a 70g with new 2" sandbed, same rocks, fish, and corals and got another bloom...UV alone didn't stop that from happening even with a brand new bulb...i had to do 3 day blackout, UV, and dirty...haven't seen dinos since it's absolutely possible they evolved or i got a new strain of dinos not as susceptible to UV the second time around or the sandbed was a huge contributing factor |
02/04/2016, 10:11 AM | #2957 |
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Ok. So you're UV ... Success dependent on strain
?
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02/04/2016, 11:35 AM | #2958 | |
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UV should be coming today im anxious to start this blackout... |
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02/04/2016, 12:11 PM | #2959 |
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i honestly have no idea why it didn't work the second time and there were too many variables that changed for me to make any accurate assumption...it was a brand new, much bigger tank, new sandbed, new corals, new fish, new lights, new equipment, etc. the only things that remained from the old tank were live rock, encrusted corals, and a few fish
the UV never really went offline either so the second bloom happened as the UV was still online...the bulb could have gone out, that's certainly a possibility that allowed the dino to bloom but even after i changed it for a brand new Philips one, the dinos didn't go away and were not affected in the slightest as mentioned several times now, what definitely worked for me was the 3 day blackout + UV, and dirty + pods/phyto...the 3 day blackout not only made the dinos recede but i honestly couldn't find any at all after uncovering on the 3rd day...and the dirty method plus pods/phyto has eliminated any trace of them...i was able to borrow a microscope and cannot find any |
02/04/2016, 01:09 PM | #2960 |
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Was your UV on a large enough loop so it was treating enough new water continuously?
Any reactor can be efficient or inefficient based on flow, placement, etc...
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02/04/2016, 08:02 PM | #2961 |
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A little update...
I added the cermedia block 2 days ago and inoculated with the prodibio bacteria straight on to it. Today there were patches of dino free areas on the rocks... about 75% of the original population I'd say. I can't tell if this is from the dirty method (I have GHA growing as well) or from the block or from the lack of water changes. I have suctioned out what I could thru a 50 micron sock and I've installed a 9W UV... lets hope it gets better and better. The green hair algae growth is what gives me the most hope. |
02/04/2016, 09:42 PM | #2962 |
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Yeah did a 3 day, knocked them back a bit..then bought some phyto 2 kinds live. Bacteria various kinds and started dosing. After couple of days the gha started showin up..also my brother trimmed his chaeto so i added it to my fuge..(pod heavy) Also purchased another 16oz of algagen tisbe pods and added them to the fuge. Dinos only appearing on a couple of my acro but very minimal..seems like it is working so far.. Btw when can i do water change? Long after dinos have disapeared? Or can i siphon dinos out and replenish with new salt? Thanks!! |
02/04/2016, 10:27 PM | #2963 | |
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but again, that is strictly my opinion based on no facts whatsoever...to be safe, i'd recommend just keeping up with the dirty method and just let it run it's course |
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02/04/2016, 10:30 PM | #2964 | |
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02/04/2016, 11:23 PM | #2965 | |
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02/05/2016, 12:38 AM | #2966 | |
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
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02/05/2016, 12:40 AM | #2967 |
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Survey so far:
Karim UV + PorkChop UV sometimes .... Please chime in if you've used low flow UV to kill dinos
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02/05/2016, 01:00 PM | #2968 |
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My bouts with dinos makes no sense.....
3 day bloom followed by 30 day clear followed by 2 day bloom followed by now 5 day clear. Clean and dirty method have both worked for me..... Decreasing lights and increasing lights have both worked and not worked.... Turning off skimmer and over-skimming also worked for me the first time and against me the second time....
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02/05/2016, 01:05 PM | #2969 | |
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02/05/2016, 01:14 PM | #2970 |
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02/05/2016, 01:24 PM | #2971 |
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Slow flow UV users poll:
Karim. ++ (killed dinos every time) Porkchop. +- (sometimes killed dinos) Fishkeeper82. +0 (controlled & halted dinos) Need more votes... I'm calling it +3/-0 for now
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02/05/2016, 04:27 PM | #2972 |
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Dinos have receded to about 5% of the original bloom. Very small patches here and there. GHA and green film algae growing on glass.
Dirthy method, no skimming, cermedia block, prodibio bacteria, pods, and now UV and mechanical removal thru 50 micron was what I did. |
02/05/2016, 09:57 PM | #2973 |
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so how would you rate the contribution of UV?
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02/05/2016, 10:40 PM | #2974 | |
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One may want to, if not already due to harvesting algae, run some lights in the sump at night while the UV is on. Give them a chance to scurry away to hide from the light before getting sucked up by the pump supplying the UV (again assume it's not fed by a drain).
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02/05/2016, 11:53 PM | #2975 |
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