can thise be my green hair algae contributor - Page 2

Daddyrawg · 10/18/2018, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle99

LC is the easiest and cheapest to mop up phosphate, just dose, the water will cloud (this is the binding of the phosphate ) then the fine sock picks up the floculent (with the phosphate in it) and presto, drop in phosphate, you then can repeat same each day. I do at night, then clean sock in morning.

Good luck, your doing all the right things

Where do you even get LC from?

Uncle99 · 10/18/2018, 11:26 AM

So Lanthium Chloride, traded under at least the names Agent Green and Reef Rx is a standard, or should be at any LFS.....if not order on line. While this can be found at pool stores, I have never used, I stick to those LC products made for the aquarium trade.

I would dose reccommended amount nightly and clean fine micron sock before the next round until I achieve say .1 ish or lower. If you can get to .07 then I might forget the GFO.
To get lower (but if you have any corals not zero) a good GFO should reduce the remaining to say .02 - .05 in 24 -48 hours.....then I discontinue, measuring weekly until it raises to .1, then same process. Once my tank got to .05 and was a year old, phosphate no longer rises unless I polute the tank by error. I rinse every frozen food fed, only the "parts" I feed, this helped a lot....

LC is great on newer tanks whereas the phosphate is generally higher and it is much much cheaper
To run.

The GFO I use now from time to time to help maintain lowest possible phosphates.

Daddyrawg · 10/18/2018, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle99

So Lanthium Chloride, traded under at least the names Agent Green and Reef Rx is a standard, or should be at any LFS.....if not order on line. While this can be found at pool stores, I have never used, I stick to those LC products made for the aquarium trade.

I would dose reccommended amount nightly and clean fine micron sock before the next round until I achieve say .1 ish or lower. If you can get to .07 then I might forget the GFO.
To get lower (but if you have any corals not zero) a good GFO should reduce the remaining to say .02 - .05 in 24 -48 hours.....then I discontinue, measuring weekly until it raises to .1, then same process. Once my tank got to .05 and was a year old, phosphate no longer rises unless I polute the tank by error. I rinse every frozen food fed, only the "parts" I feed, this helped a lot....

LC is great on newer tanks whereas the phosphate is generally higher and it is much much cheaper
To run.

The GFO I use now from time to time to help maintain lowest possible phosphates.

WOW, great process. Thanks

NikonN8 · 10/18/2018, 01:00 PM

Lanthanum for the win!! I used to dose my sump - turn off the main return pump and set up a powerhead with a hose to run water from one end to the other til it quit coming out. My skimmer used to chew it up pretty good and worked a bit better than the filter sock for removing it. That light brown cake was fun to scrape out of the cup every few days.

lapin · 10/18/2018, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daddyrawg

do yoy use phosphate or ulr phosphorous hanna checker?

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I use the ULR. My apex will convert that to ppm from ppb or there are online charts to do so.
Be sure to use a timer. It will shut off after 3 min of inactivity. Have the reagent open and ready to pour before starting. Ya have 2 min of mixing.

Daddyrawg · 10/18/2018, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lapin

I use the ULR. My apex will convert that to ppm from ppb or there are online charts to do so.
Be sure to use a timer. It will shut off after 3 min of inactivity. Have the reagent open and ready to pour before starting. Ya have 2 min of mixing.

Ya, I just ordered the ULR and I have a excel setup for the conversion from phosphorus to phosphate

Pdisner · 10/22/2018, 08:58 AM

I thought I would offer an additional suggestion that I haven’t seen mentioned. Actually a couple of things. I’m assuming you have the usual recommended cleanup crew, (snails and crabs). Buy fish and other critters that have a purpose, so that things balance out. People often forget the other clean up crews like Amphipods, Copepods and even rotifers. I’ve been dumping my extra harvests of pods and Rotifers and even phytoplankton into my DT and have seen an incredible difference. It somehow takes up nutrients needed by nuisance algae. I’m loving it. I post pics and video here and there on my Facebook vlog page @paulsPodsAZ, mostly of my fish and shrimp breeding which is a whole other topic. You can message me there if you need advice on how to get started on that. It’s a lot of fun as well.
I just wanted to share my success and maybe it will work for you as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Daddyrawg · 10/22/2018, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdisner

I thought I would offer an additional suggestion that I haven’t seen mentioned. Actually a couple of things. I’m assuming you have the usual recommended cleanup crew, (snails and crabs). Buy fish and other critters that have a purpose, so that things balance out. People often forget the other clean up crews like Amphipods, Copepods and even rotifers. I’ve been dumping my extra harvests of pods and Rotifers and even phytoplankton into my DT and have seen an incredible difference. It somehow takes up nutrients needed by nuisance algae. I’m loving it. I post pics and video here and there on my Facebook vlog page @paulsPodsAZ, mostly of my fish and shrimp breeding which is a whole other topic. You can message me there if you need advice on how to get started on that. It’s a lot of fun as well.
I just wanted to share my success and maybe it will work for you as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I occasionally dump BRS reef chilli in my tank.. dos this count?

Pdisner · 10/29/2018, 08:32 AM

Well, no actually, you’re talking about the difference between living animals and a coral food. I’ve used Reef Chili. It’s a good food. But when you start feeding Rotifers packed with all kinds of good stuff, not only will your corals grow, they will become more vivid because they are healthier. I have a thread in the fish breeding forum that I’ve started because I’ve been responding to a great number of people that are not savvy as far as the important role role of zooplankton and phytoplankton use in display tanks. Check it out. You will learn how to culture copepods, rotifers and phyto as well as intro to breeding many species of fish. Cheaply. Lol. It’s my mission.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10/18/2018, 01:00 PM	#29
NikonN8 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 89	Lanthanum for the win!! I used to dose my sump - turn off the main return pump and set up a powerhead with a hose to run water from one end to the other til it quit coming out. My skimmer used to chew it up pretty good and worked a bit better than the filter sock for removing it. That light brown cake was fun to scrape out of the cup every few days. __________________ My name's Nate, not Nikon. In case it wasn't clear.

10/18/2018, 11:26 AM	#27
Uncle99 Crab Free Zone Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,906	So Lanthium Chloride, traded under at least the names Agent Green and Reef Rx is a standard, or should be at any LFS.....if not order on line. While this can be found at pool stores, I have never used, I stick to those LC products made for the aquarium trade. I would dose reccommended amount nightly and clean fine micron sock before the next round until I achieve say .1 ish or lower. If you can get to .07 then I might forget the GFO. To get lower (but if you have any corals not zero) a good GFO should reduce the remaining to say .02 - .05 in 24 -48 hours.....then I discontinue, measuring weekly until it raises to .1, then same process. Once my tank got to .05 and was a year old, phosphate no longer rises unless I polute the tank by error. I rinse every frozen food fed, only the "parts" I feed, this helped a lot.... LC is great on newer tanks whereas the phosphate is generally higher and it is much much cheaper To run. The GFO I use now from time to time to help maintain lowest possible phosphates.

10/22/2018, 08:58 AM	#32
Pdisner Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 58	I thought I would offer an additional suggestion that I haven’t seen mentioned. Actually a couple of things. I’m assuming you have the usual recommended cleanup crew, (snails and crabs). Buy fish and other critters that have a purpose, so that things balance out. People often forget the other clean up crews like Amphipods, Copepods and even rotifers. I’ve been dumping my extra harvests of pods and Rotifers and even phytoplankton into my DT and have seen an incredible difference. It somehow takes up nutrients needed by nuisance algae. I’m loving it. I post pics and video here and there on my Facebook vlog page @paulsPodsAZ, mostly of my fish and shrimp breeding which is a whole other topic. You can message me there if you need advice on how to get started on that. It’s a lot of fun as well. I just wanted to share my success and maybe it will work for you as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10/29/2018, 08:32 AM	#34
Pdisner Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 58	Well, no actually, you’re talking about the difference between living animals and a coral food. I’ve used Reef Chili. It’s a good food. But when you start feeding Rotifers packed with all kinds of good stuff, not only will your corals grow, they will become more vivid because they are healthier. I have a thread in the fish breeding forum that I’ve started because I’ve been responding to a great number of people that are not savvy as far as the important role role of zooplankton and phytoplankton use in display tanks. Check it out. You will learn how to culture copepods, rotifers and phyto as well as intro to breeding many species of fish. Cheaply. Lol. It’s my mission. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk