Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT). - Page 14

Dj22192 · 01/28/2013, 08:48 AM

Most people don't have a quarantine tank because of the extra expense and maintenance that the tank will require. However a quarantine tank doesn't need to be large or expensive, and in the end it will pay for itself many times over. In fact, once someone gets into the habit of using a quarantine tank, they are so impressed with the benefits and uses that they would never be without one.

Dj22192 · 01/28/2013, 08:48 AM

In addition to preventing the spread of infectious disease, quarantine tanks allow the new fish to get adjusted to a new type of water and food. When they are not being used for quarantine, these tanks can also double as treatment tanks. Treating the entire display tank for a problem that only infects a few fish is not a good practice. Quarantine tanks allow the infected fish to be safely treated without damaging fragile species or water quality in the display tank. Another use of quarantine tanks is to provide a breeding area for fish, a recovery area for harassed fish and a place to allow newly hatched fish to safely grow.

bnumair · 01/28/2013, 09:59 AM

nicely put Dj22192.. No QT is like playing Russian Roulette. For instance lets take this situation the most i hear over my 15+ yrs.
"i have never quarantined any fish i buy from reputable source or my lfs qt's them for me i have never had ich" guess what after putting several hundred dollars of fish that last fish brings ich or parasite to ur tank wiping it out clean.
Mark my words it will happen one day (without qt).

nickbuol · 01/28/2013, 07:13 PM

I was told during a breakout session during a regional marine expo that all fish have parasites and diseases from the ocean, or exposure to fish from the ocean. Some never show signs of anything at all, so then you shorten their time in the QT because everything "looks" ok. Into the DT they go, and bam... The other fish have an Ich breakout.

So be sure (regardless of if you are in the medicate always, only if you see something, or never camps) to do a full quarantine each and every time.

NH Fish · 01/29/2013, 12:01 PM

Is there a chance that ich can be carried in on a piece of coral? and if so should the coral be qt after dipping? Or is chance to low to worry about it?

bnumair · 01/29/2013, 12:13 PM

chances for that is low but there. dipping corals in coral dips will NOT rid ich.
So yes there is a low risk here.
Qt'ing corals is totally your call. i personally dont. like nickbuol said in earlier post every fish carries parasites and disease from the oceans and to me chances of such fish bringing something to ur tank is much higher than corals.
But if u do decide to qt corals (some reefers do) then u have to make sure that QT setup never saw and or never sees copper plus u will need to make sure that water chemistry is perfect and water changes ato dosing etc are on top of ur priority along with appropriate lighting.

NH Fish · 01/31/2013, 10:51 AM

Can you dose prazipro while in hypo?

bnumair · 01/31/2013, 12:20 PM

i personally have never tried it but i know few reefers that have successfully run hypo and prazipro at same time.
Recommendation is to stop using the skimmer.
here is a link for you.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...php?p=16695128

bnumair · 02/01/2013, 11:30 AM

Email Question:

Regarding a QT tank
Hi there, i understand you are an expert in this hobby and i would love some input from you regarding my tank, So far i have all the equipment for my Display tank and by next weekend I should have it setup Im now in the process of starting a quarantine tank for any fish i buy to sit in until ready to go in the DT. My question is, after i have the tank with fresh saltwater made in it with a heater, hang on filter and a tunze for waves, is it then ready to go? i can bring fish to sit in it while my new DP tank gets cycled for several weeks? Also is it only one fish at a time?

One last thing, what do I add to the tank to assure no parasites are brought to my tank, and where to buy it as well as how to use it?

I just want to make sure i do everything right the first time with no screw ups, i spent 3,500 in total and I would hate to mess anything up.

Thanks a lot for the help, its much appreciated.

Ryan

Hi Ryan
If u just put a tank together and put equipment in and run it its NOT ready.
you need some sort of bacteria to be introduced in it to be cycled and ready. either u can get a filter seeded from an established tank or get cured seeded live rock or cycle the tank by putting a frozen shrimp in it.
i strongly suggest to cycle both tanks (qt and dt).
once u have the qt cycled then u can add first fish or two. use prazipro for 2 weeks.
then observe for 4 more weeks after that.
treat accordingly if there are any parasites or diseases observed.
If ur fish happen to be tangs then process is a bit different. i do 2 weeks of prazipro then 3 weeks of cupramine. and then 2 weeks observation.
i understand this hobby is not cheap and a little fault at our end can cost you to get out of the hobby so yah, take ur time and ask as many questions u have.
i have a sticky thread on top of the new to saltwater forum you can post any questions there.
This way everyone can learn off ur question and my remarks.
Thanks and good luck and happy reefing.
Note: i will post this on the forum as well for other to benefit.

Mike

chaaban · 02/01/2013, 11:45 AM

Thx a lot! And trust me from what i understand and can see i believe you far better then a reef doctor lol.

I think i will go with the shrimp rout for the QT tank and I'm still debating on what to do with my DT, do i use all dry rock/sand and seed with shrimp to avoid any unwanted pets from live rock? Initially i was going that route so i wouldn't introduce anything bad to my tank but people on here started telling me that i will never get the tank to look the way i want it with all that coraline algae and purple if i don't use some live rock...what do you think?

chaaban · 02/01/2013, 11:49 AM

As for purchasing cupramine, and Prazipro, would theses two products be the right thing to buy?

http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=md-hpraz04

http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=sc-cup0250

bnumair · 02/01/2013, 11:56 AM

yup thats the right products. also pick up a good copper test kit if u use cupramine and a ammonia badge from petco/petsmart.

chaaban · 02/01/2013, 12:08 PM

sounds good, ill order these two online with the copper test kit and ill look for the "ammonia badge" at pets mart....unless all can be purchased from petsmart?

One more question regarding meds and stuff, for my corals that i will be buying to introduce to my new DT after cycle, what is the best product to use when "dipping" then rinsing with tank water before adding to tank?

chaaban · 02/01/2013, 12:12 PM

please confirm these are the right products to test the copper and ammonia.

bnumair · 02/01/2013, 12:21 PM

yes those two are exactly what i have, this test kit is not as good, it does the job but i have heard that salifert copper is better. i personally have a hanna low range copper meter (pricy but good $300+) that i use.

chaaban · 02/01/2013, 12:25 PM

$300 is definitely out of my range lol, so i think ill go with what you recommend to be better and that would be the salifert copper?

bnumair · 02/01/2013, 12:37 PM

yes that is the salifert copper kit, i have heard its easy to use and better than seachem.

borg1of2 · 02/04/2013, 12:37 PM

Thanks for all the great information. My QT is up and running and now home to our first two fishes (clowns). My order for Prazipro didn't come in as expected, so just wanted to check to make sure that it's OK to add to the QT with the fish already in. Understand that this will start my counter at that point, but wanted to make sure.

Also, would like some guidance on what to look for when oberving the fish over the next several weeks. I am familiar with ick from fresh water and assume it's the same visible white spots on salt water fish, but what other things am I looking for, visible and behavioral?

Final question - Just wanted to confirm that after the two weeks with Prazipro, do a 25% water change, twice during the 3rd week, and go ahead and change the filter. Should I switch to a carbon based filter at that point? Then continue to observe and watch QT parameters doing a water change weekly or as needed.

bnumair · 02/04/2013, 12:49 PM

yes ur 2 week counter will start at the time u dose prazipro. after 2 weeks do 4-5x 25% water changes. no need to change filters as they contain bacteria and replacing them will cause a cycle. u can run carbon in some other form (reactor or media sock) if u like.
then over next 4 weeks look for worms, ich, heavy breathing white or black specks. fish not eating etc.

borg1of2 · 02/04/2013, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bnumair

yes ur 2 week counter will start at the time u dose prazipro. after 2 weeks do 4-5x 25% water changes. no need to change filters as they contain bacteria and replacing them will cause a cycle. u can run carbon in some other form (reactor or media sock) if u like.
then over next 4 weeks look for worms, ich, heavy breathing white or black specks. fish not eating etc.

Over what period of time should the 4-5x 25% water changes be done?

What paramters do you recommend for your QT. My 10 Gal is running at 1.025 SG at about 76 degrees. Which parameter is likely to increase now that there is bio load in the tank? How fast with just the two fish and a HOB filter running?

reefmandan · 02/04/2013, 02:07 PM

I have a 25g QT setup, cycled and have 2 damsels in it currently. I do weekly 20% water changes and watch NO3 (0 -0.2) and NO4 (20), no ammonia, PH is 8.2 and sg = 1.025, temp is 79.2 - 80.2. Other than the damsels, how many fish can I safely put together and do they all need to be treated before being put into DT or just watched? Damsels will stay in QT. I have 2 HOB Penguin 200 filters with bacteria activated blue filter material from DT sump.

Sorry my list for fish:

1 - Flame Angelfish (Last)
(Centropyge loriculus)

3 - Bartlett's Anthias
(Pseudanthias bartlettorum)

2 - True Percula Clownfish (paired, tank-bred)
(Amphiprion percula)

1 - Orange-Back Fairy Wrasse
(Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)

1 - Yellowtail Reef Basslet
(Liopropoma mitratum)

bnumair · 02/04/2013, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by borg1of2

Over what period of time should the 4-5x 25% water changes be done?

What paramters do you recommend for your QT. My 10 Gal is running at 1.025 SG at about 76 degrees. Which parameter is likely to increase now that there is bio load in the tank? How fast with just the two fish and a HOB filter running?

in qt i dont monitor much, just salinity and temp. salinity i keep at 1.026 and temp i keep it at 80-81. reason for higher temp is that warmer water fastens some parasites life cycle.
other than just ammonia and nitrites. rest is not relevant in qt.
i personally do 2x 50% water change with in 1 week. reason is to get all the prazipro out of the water in case u have to dose some other med. mixing meds is never a good idea.
ammonia and nitrites are only 2 u need to keep eye on. if qt was cycled properly you shouldnt have an issue.

bnumair · 02/04/2013, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reefmandan

I have a 25g QT setup, cycled and have 2 damsels in it currently. I do weekly 20% water changes and watch NO3 (0 -0.2) and NO4 (20), no ammonia, PH is 8.2 and sg = 1.025, temp is 79.2 - 80.2. Other than the damsels, how many fish can I safely put together and do they all need to be treated before being put into DT or just watched? Damsels will stay in QT. I have 2 HOB Penguin 200 filters with bacteria activated blue filter material from DT sump.

Sorry my list for fish:

1 - Flame Angelfish (Last)
(Centropyge loriculus)

3 - Bartlett's Anthias
(Pseudanthias bartlettorum)

2 - True Percula Clownfish (paired, tank-bred)
(Amphiprion percula)

1 - Orange-Back Fairy Wrasse
(Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis)

1 - Yellowtail Reef Basslet
(Liopropoma mitratum)

Those fish are all mostly easy and small size fish. you can probably get away will all at same time but if u see any problem from the damsels then use a divider made of egg crate to separate them.
i would just use prazipro first 2 weeks and then observe over next 4 weeks after that.
some fish on the list are not advisable for copper treatment just in case.

Note: sorry i didnt notice the quantities ur planning on keeping (some upto 3) so divide the list into 2. get the clowns and anthias first time and then rest next time.

Reefneophyte007 · 02/04/2013, 06:43 PM

Could not find the answer to this question. If treating with copper based medication (I'm currently using Coppersafe) does evaporation water need to be treated as well or is it like salt where the copper does not evaporate with the water?

bnumair · 02/04/2013, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reefneophyte007

Could not find the answer to this question. If treating with copper based medication (I'm currently using Coppersafe) does evaporation water need to be treated as well or is it like salt where the copper does not evaporate with the water?

very good question....
as water evaporates it leave behind the minerals salts and metals. so as tank water evaporates it leaves the copper behind as well so increasing the copper content slightly. this is why an ato is a good option for a qt tank.
so a short answer to ur question is no u dont have to treat ato water.

01/28/2013, 08:48 AM	#326
Dj22192 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: VA Posts: 26	Quarintine Most people don't have a quarantine tank because of the extra expense and maintenance that the tank will require. However a quarantine tank doesn't need to be large or expensive, and in the end it will pay for itself many times over. In fact, once someone gets into the habit of using a quarantine tank, they are so impressed with the benefits and uses that they would never be without one.

01/28/2013, 08:48 AM	#327
Dj22192 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: VA Posts: 26	Tank In addition to preventing the spread of infectious disease, quarantine tanks allow the new fish to get adjusted to a new type of water and food. When they are not being used for quarantine, these tanks can also double as treatment tanks. Treating the entire display tank for a problem that only infects a few fish is not a good practice. Quarantine tanks allow the infected fish to be safely treated without damaging fragile species or water quality in the display tank. Another use of quarantine tanks is to provide a breeding area for fish, a recovery area for harassed fish and a place to allow newly hatched fish to safely grow.

01/28/2013, 09:59 AM	#328
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	nicely put Dj22192.. No QT is like playing Russian Roulette. For instance lets take this situation the most i hear over my 15+ yrs. "i have never quarantined any fish i buy from reputable source or my lfs qt's them for me i have never had ich" guess what after putting several hundred dollars of fish that last fish brings ich or parasite to ur tank wiping it out clean. Mark my words it will happen one day (without qt). __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

01/28/2013, 07:13 PM	#329
nickbuol Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Marion, IA Posts: 182	I was told during a breakout session during a regional marine expo that all fish have parasites and diseases from the ocean, or exposure to fish from the ocean. Some never show signs of anything at all, so then you shorten their time in the QT because everything "looks" ok. Into the DT they go, and bam... The other fish have an Ich breakout. So be sure (regardless of if you are in the medicate always, only if you see something, or never camps) to do a full quarantine each and every time. __________________ You know you are in trouble when you hear... Da-dum... Da-dum... Da-dum-da-dum-da-dum

01/29/2013, 12:01 PM	#330
NH Fish Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 268	Is there a chance that ich can be carried in on a piece of coral? and if so should the coral be qt after dipping? Or is chance to low to worry about it? __________________ Dave 220 gal 125 gal sump 75 gal skimmer tank.

01/29/2013, 12:13 PM	#331
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	chances for that is low but there. dipping corals in coral dips will NOT rid ich. So yes there is a low risk here. Qt'ing corals is totally your call. i personally dont. like nickbuol said in earlier post every fish carries parasites and disease from the oceans and to me chances of such fish bringing something to ur tank is much higher than corals. But if u do decide to qt corals (some reefers do) then u have to make sure that QT setup never saw and or never sees copper plus u will need to make sure that water chemistry is perfect and water changes ato dosing etc are on top of ur priority along with appropriate lighting. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

01/31/2013, 10:51 AM	#332
NH Fish Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 268	Can you dose prazipro while in hypo? __________________ Dave 220 gal 125 gal sump 75 gal skimmer tank. Last edited by NH Fish; 01/31/2013 at 10:56 AM.

01/31/2013, 12:20 PM	#333
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	i personally have never tried it but i know few reefers that have successfully run hypo and prazipro at same time. Recommendation is to stop using the skimmer. here is a link for you. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...php?p=16695128 __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

02/01/2013, 11:30 AM	#334
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	Email Question: Regarding a QT tank Hi there, i understand you are an expert in this hobby and i would love some input from you regarding my tank, So far i have all the equipment for my Display tank and by next weekend I should have it setup Im now in the process of starting a quarantine tank for any fish i buy to sit in until ready to go in the DT. My question is, after i have the tank with fresh saltwater made in it with a heater, hang on filter and a tunze for waves, is it then ready to go? i can bring fish to sit in it while my new DP tank gets cycled for several weeks? Also is it only one fish at a time? One last thing, what do I add to the tank to assure no parasites are brought to my tank, and where to buy it as well as how to use it? I just want to make sure i do everything right the first time with no screw ups, i spent 3,500 in total and I would hate to mess anything up. Thanks a lot for the help, its much appreciated. Ryan Hi Ryan If u just put a tank together and put equipment in and run it its NOT ready. you need some sort of bacteria to be introduced in it to be cycled and ready. either u can get a filter seeded from an established tank or get cured seeded live rock or cycle the tank by putting a frozen shrimp in it. i strongly suggest to cycle both tanks (qt and dt). once u have the qt cycled then u can add first fish or two. use prazipro for 2 weeks. then observe for 4 more weeks after that. treat accordingly if there are any parasites or diseases observed. If ur fish happen to be tangs then process is a bit different. i do 2 weeks of prazipro then 3 weeks of cupramine. and then 2 weeks observation. i understand this hobby is not cheap and a little fault at our end can cost you to get out of the hobby so yah, take ur time and ask as many questions u have. i have a sticky thread on top of the new to saltwater forum you can post any questions there. This way everyone can learn off ur question and my remarks. Thanks and good luck and happy reefing. Note: i will post this on the forum as well for other to benefit. Mike __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

02/01/2013, 11:45 AM	#335
chaaban Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 388	Thx a lot! And trust me from what i understand and can see i believe you far better then a reef doctor lol. I think i will go with the shrimp rout for the QT tank and I'm still debating on what to do with my DT, do i use all dry rock/sand and seed with shrimp to avoid any unwanted pets from live rock? Initially i was going that route so i wouldn't introduce anything bad to my tank but people on here started telling me that i will never get the tank to look the way i want it with all that coraline algae and purple if i don't use some live rock...what do you think?

02/01/2013, 11:49 AM	#336
chaaban Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 388	As for purchasing cupramine, and Prazipro, would theses two products be the right thing to buy? http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=md-hpraz04 http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=sc-cup0250

02/01/2013, 11:56 AM	#337
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	yup thats the right products. also pick up a good copper test kit if u use cupramine and a ammonia badge from petco/petsmart. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

02/01/2013, 12:08 PM	#338
chaaban Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 388	sounds good, ill order these two online with the copper test kit and ill look for the "ammonia badge" at pets mart....unless all can be purchased from petsmart? One more question regarding meds and stuff, for my corals that i will be buying to introduce to my new DT after cycle, what is the best product to use when "dipping" then rinsing with tank water before adding to tank?

02/01/2013, 12:12 PM	#339
chaaban Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 388	please confirm these are the right products to test the copper and ammonia.

02/01/2013, 12:21 PM	#340
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	yes those two are exactly what i have, this test kit is not as good, it does the job but i have heard that salifert copper is better. i personally have a hanna low range copper meter (pricy but good $300+) that i use. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

02/01/2013, 12:25 PM	#341
chaaban Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 388	$300 is definitely out of my range lol, so i think ill go with what you recommend to be better and that would be the salifert copper?

02/01/2013, 12:37 PM	#342
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	yes that is the salifert copper kit, i have heard its easy to use and better than seachem. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

02/04/2013, 12:37 PM	#343
borg1of2 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tampa FL Posts: 62	Thanks for all the great information. My QT is up and running and now home to our first two fishes (clowns). My order for Prazipro didn't come in as expected, so just wanted to check to make sure that it's OK to add to the QT with the fish already in. Understand that this will start my counter at that point, but wanted to make sure. Also, would like some guidance on what to look for when oberving the fish over the next several weeks. I am familiar with ick from fresh water and assume it's the same visible white spots on salt water fish, but what other things am I looking for, visible and behavioral? Final question - Just wanted to confirm that after the two weeks with Prazipro, do a 25% water change, twice during the 3rd week, and go ahead and change the filter. Should I switch to a carbon based filter at that point? Then continue to observe and watch QT parameters doing a water change weekly or as needed.

02/04/2013, 12:49 PM	#344
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	yes ur 2 week counter will start at the time u dose prazipro. after 2 weeks do 4-5x 25% water changes. no need to change filters as they contain bacteria and replacing them will cause a cycle. u can run carbon in some other form (reactor or media sock) if u like. then over next 4 weeks look for worms, ich, heavy breathing white or black specks. fish not eating etc. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

02/04/2013, 02:07 PM	#346
reefmandan Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Woodstock, GA Posts: 10	I have a 25g QT setup, cycled and have 2 damsels in it currently. I do weekly 20% water changes and watch NO3 (0 -0.2) and NO4 (20), no ammonia, PH is 8.2 and sg = 1.025, temp is 79.2 - 80.2. Other than the damsels, how many fish can I safely put together and do they all need to be treated before being put into DT or just watched? Damsels will stay in QT. I have 2 HOB Penguin 200 filters with bacteria activated blue filter material from DT sump. Sorry my list for fish: 1 - Flame Angelfish (Last) (Centropyge loriculus) 3 - Bartlett's Anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum) 2 - True Percula Clownfish (paired, tank-bred) (Amphiprion percula) 1 - Orange-Back Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus aurantidorsalis) 1 - Yellowtail Reef Basslet (Liopropoma mitratum) Last edited by reefmandan; 02/04/2013 at 02:16 PM. Reason: added filtration

02/04/2013, 06:43 PM	#349
Reefneophyte007 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Camas, WA Posts: 35	Could not find the answer to this question. If treating with copper based medication (I'm currently using Coppersafe) does evaporation water need to be treated as well or is it like salt where the copper does not evaporate with the water?