AI Hydra Settings Thread

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Arafas

When you say 30% for two months, so if I set acclimation mode on and set 2 months. Do I just each individually slider in the acclimation to 30% percent? Will it still follow your saw tooth graph?

Yes just set the sliders to 30% and it will follow the schedule just at reduced intensity until the acclimation period is over.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Arafas]

Thanks, will try. What is your tanks nitrate and phosphate level. The only bad parameters I have is nitrate 25ppm, phosphate 0.08ppm. Waiting for hanna checker to double check my phosphate.

[Orcus Varuna]

That is your issue right there. If that phosphate number is correct it is sky high and will cause issues if trying to keep any corals let alone sps. For reference my tank as of last weekend had nitrates of 5 and phosphate under .01. Also if you want to get into acro keeping nitrates should also stay under 10.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Reeefer]

Has anyone that has been using the SPS AB lighting schedule added additional power?

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Reeefer

Has anyone that has been using the SPS AB lighting schedule added additional power?

What are the dimensions of your tank and how many lights are you running?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Reeefer]

Red Sea E260

36x22.6x56

Running 2 Hydra 26HDs

[Orcus Varuna]

Hmmm the settings should be perfect for the Red Sea tank. Are you noticing anything that is leading you to believe you are having PAR issues? Are corals, nems or clams reaching for more light? Always be mindful that the the schedule is very heavy on sub 550nm spectrum. The human eye is absolutely terrible identifying relative intensity of light at this wavelength. What I am trying to say is what looks dim to you may actually be intense for your corals


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Arafas]

Hey orcus not to go off topic, but I have to ask. My lfs tank has 40ppm nitrates and its stacked with corals to the brim, with everything. I am just not sure if 25ppm could cause such an issue with corals. I tested the water, 2 different stores tested the water, mag is little low 1280, but I don get whats going on. I am waiting to see if it's a phosphate issue with hanna checker because red sea and api sucks. I buy the ro water from the store so not sure they use that water in the store. So I am really baffled with my issue. Should I dose some coral color from red sea. Maybe I am missing some trace elements?

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Arafas

Hey orcus not to go off topic, but I have to ask. My lfs tank has 40ppm nitrates and its stacked with corals to the brim, with everything. I am just not sure if 25ppm could cause such an issue with corals. I tested the water, 2 different stores tested the water, mag is little low 1280, but I don get whats going on. I am waiting to see if it's a phosphate issue with hanna checker because red sea and api sucks. I buy the ro water from the store so not sure they use that water in the store. So I am really baffled with my issue. Should I dose some coral color from red sea. Maybe I am missing some trace elements?

I have always had issues with acropora and nitrates over 10, usually STN. As far as nitrates of 40 being an "issue" for softies and lps it usually is not. But in conjunction with a phosphate that is "off the charts" (which .08 is) it will cause issues. As far as Mg being low 1280 is pretty much nsw value so that is fine. I would NOT dose trace elements regular water changes replace these. Finally, even if you are buying water from the store if they are not deionizing or replacing their filters regularly nutrients can pass through the filtration process. Also, phosphate can build up latently in rock over time and release it back into the water column in large quantities once critical mass is reached. If your rock is 10 years old this could certainly be the source of your struggles. My recommendation for latent phosphate issues is always to run the tank barebottom for 6-12 months while at the same time aggressively reducing nutrients to leach the rocks of their built up phosphate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Arafas]

Thanks, helped a lot. Just bought an rodi unit, I will be making my own water from now on.

[Reeefer]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

Hmmm the settings should be perfect for the Red Sea tank. Are you noticing anything that is leading you to believe you are having PAR issues? Are corals, nems or clams reaching for more light? Always be mindful that the the schedule is very heavy on sub 550nm spectrum. The human eye is absolutely terrible identifying relative intensity of light at this wavelength. What I am trying to say is what looks dim to you may actually be intense for your corals


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exactly, seems a bit dim to me and was wondering if I could turn it up. Guess I'll refrain for now. Aside from Zoas reaching for the light here and there, everything is doing fine. Thanks for the input!

[Hentz]

Gosh dang do I love the AI Hydra 26HD's!

I've been meaning to post my PAR readings on this thread, just kept forgetting to lol.

My Reefer 170 is running a single AI Hydra 26HD with most SPS in the tank. The only other type of coral is a colony of Gobstopper Palythoa's that are on my sand bed in the far left front corner. I'm using the mock Ecotech Marine SPS AB+ profile that Orcus created a while back.

What do I think of the profile? It's amazing! I literally notice growth on my Acropora every 2-3 days. I cut a frag off of a Millepora colony just to test and see how it would do. Within the first week I noticed tissue starting to quickly form. Today, it's starting to form branches. This cut was made about 3-4 weeks ago now. The frag itself is starting to encrust over the glue as well. I'm really really impressed with the lighting schedule. I even sold my dad on the AI Hydra 52HD's he's now running over his 210 which replaced his Metal Halides and loves it.

This is the profile Orcus provided us with the settings as the AI Hydra HD placed 12" AWL with the peak settings as follows:
Tank: Red Sea Reefer 170 24x20x20
----------------------------------------
Violet: 80%
UV: 80%
Royal Blue: 90%
Blue: 90%
Green: 25%
Deep Red: 25%
Cool White: 25%

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Hentz

Gosh dang do I love the AI Hydra 26HD's!

I've been meaning to post my PAR readings on this thread, just kept forgetting to lol.

My Reefer 170 is running a single AI Hydra 26HD with most SPS in the tank. The only other type of coral is a colony of Gobstopper Palythoa's that are on my sand bed in the far left front corner. I'm using the mock Ecotech Marine SPS AB+ profile that Orcus created a while back.

What do I think of the profile? It's amazing! I literally notice growth on my Acropora every 2-3 days. I cut a frag off of a Millepora colony just to test and see how it would do. Within the first week I noticed tissue starting to quickly form. Today, it's starting to form branches. This cut was made about 3-4 weeks ago now. The frag itself is starting to encrust over the glue as well. I'm really really impressed with the lighting schedule. I even sold my dad on the AI Hydra 52HD's he's now running over his 210 which replaced his Metal Halides and loves it.

This is the profile Orcus provided us with the settings as the AI Hydra HD placed 12" AWL with the peak settings as follows:
Tank: Red Sea Reefer 170 24x20x20
----------------------------------------
Violet: 80%
UV: 80%
Royal Blue: 90%
Blue: 90%
Green: 25%
Deep Red: 25%
Cool White: 25%

I totally need a PAR meter, which one do you use? BTW the tank looks awesome!!! I am glad the schedule is working so well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Orcus Varuna]

Did some rearranging last night I'm really loving the 24x24x20 dimensions!!! Also now im really curious as to what my PAR reading are because I run a hydra 52hd AND 2 Prime HD's and my tanks the same dimensions as your haha




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hentz]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

I totally need a PAR meter, which one do you use? BTW the tank looks awesome!!! I am glad the schedule is working so well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I borrowed one from my LFS.
It was an Apogee Par Meter, not sure which model. I need to invest into my own though!
Thanks man! I really enjoy it. I give it out to a lot of people on here as well, even some friends including my father. It's such a great profile!!

[Hentz]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

Did some rearranging last night I'm really loving the 24x24x20 dimensions!!! Also now im really curious as to what my PAR reading are because I run a hydra 52hd AND 2 Prime HD's and my tanks the same dimensions as your haha




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow man, tank is looking great!!

Wow I can only imagine!! lmao. I'm sure your PAR is very very stable across the tank.

[TX_Punisher]

How's growth and coloration with those settings? Thinking of picking up 3-4 52 hd

[Hentz]

Originally Posted by TX_Punisher

How's growth and coloration with those settings? Thinking of picking up 3-4 52 hd

Noticing growth every 2-3 days on my Acropora. Color is absolutely amazing!

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by TX_Punisher

How's growth and coloration with those settings? Thinking of picking up 3-4 52 hd

The profile is a very high kelvin around 20-24k so it is very blue. With that said the color and health of all of my corals and light demanding inverts is fantastic and rivals what I have gotten in the past using radium halides and aquablue special/blue plus t5ho load outs. Hope that helps lol



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Orcus Varuna]

O and one more thing how big is your tank? For reference I am running a 52hd and two prime hds over a 24x24x20 cube to achieve full shadowless coverage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TX_Punisher]

72" by 26" by 24"

Havent purchased the lights nor has the tank arrived. So I have not even dipped a toe into the AI hydra playbook. I'm sure I'll end up with 4.

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by TX_Punisher

72" by 26" by 24"

Havent purchased the lights nor has the tank arrived. So I have not even dipped a toe into the AI hydra playbook. I'm sure I'll end up with 4.

4 is a good start but I would be prepared to possibly drop in some Prime HD's for shading reduction if you plan on going branching sps dominant!

Those are some awesome tank dimensions though. Is it a custom build? Now that I have a 24" front to back tank I'll find it hard to ever have anything less!

[Bobby A.]

Ok guys, I have a question I haven't been able to find an answer to. I have a shallow rimless (48x24x18 tall) I have two Hydra 52 HDs about 12" above the water. My question is in regulates to power/ percentages. All of my blues peak at 50% for most of the day. But how high could I go on a tank that shallow? It is an SPS dominated tank with just a few LPS sprinkled in and some zoas. The issue I am having is I know it's a lot of light. Some mushrooms I had bleached out under them except for the ones under shaded rocks. My acros all grow very well and have good color. However my zoas which are low in the tank seem to be stretching like they aren't getting enough light. Anyone else run into this problem?

Here are my settings


And here is the tank


The top of the rocks are just 6-7" under the water surface.

Any info would be greatly appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Bobby A.

Ok guys, I have a question I haven't been able to find an answer to. I have a shallow rimless (48x24x18 tall) I have two Hydra 52 HDs about 12" above the water. My question is in regulates to power/ percentages. All of my blues peak at 50% for most of the day. But how high could I go on a tank that shallow? It is an SPS dominated tank with just a few LPS sprinkled in and some zoas. The issue I am having is I know it's a lot of light. Some mushrooms I had bleached out under them except for the ones under shaded rocks. My acros all grow very well and have good color. However my zoas which are low in the tank seem to be stretching like they aren't getting enough light. Anyone else run into this problem?

Here are my settings


And here is the tank


The top of the rocks are just 6-7" under the water surface.

Any info would be greatly appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are going to run into an issue with softies in such a shallow tank with these lights. Is there anyway you can pull the lights to 18" above waterline? If so do that and try my 12" sps ab+ profile. I have included respiration peaks to help give my lower light demand corals a bit of a reprieve during peak daylight hours while at the same time giving my high demand animals the light they need to thrive. By pulling the leds higher the hope is it will diffuse the intensity and decrease hot spotting which seems to hit mushrooms especially hard. The problem with leds on shallow tanks is the light doesn't disperse as well and have the same uniformity as t5 and MH. Finally, I honestly have given up on mushrooms with these lights, I can't grow them. Zoas though seem to be thriving and growing very well. Beautiful tank btw, I LOVE the dimensions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bucfan]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

Finally, I honestly have given up on mushrooms with these lights, I can't grow them. Zoas though seem to be thriving and growing very well. Beautiful tank btw, I LOVE the dimensions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have yuma mushrooms growing very well under the lights using your lighting scheme but it's a hit and miss with some regular ones.