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08/21/2020, 11:56 AM | #1 |
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Bacterial bloom with carbon dosing
Hi all,
I'm about to throw in the towel. I have an established tank (over 8 years) and recently have discovered nitrates at 40. I have done massive water changes to no avail. I've added a new skimmer, macroalgae with no changes but I don't expect that after 2 weeks. In the mean time I'm moving corals in to QT tanks in the hopes of saving them. I decided to try carbon dosing with vodka. I'm on my 2nd day of dosing and I already have a bacterial bloom. Stats: 80 gallon frag tank w/ 30 gal refugium. Estimated water volume 68 gallons. I dosed .125 ml (using a syringe) once in the morning and one at night. Now I have cloudy water. HELP! What do I do? Stop dosing? Add carbon? Do a large water change? Thanks in advance
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
08/21/2020, 05:36 PM | #2 |
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The bacterial bloom should go away on its own. I would stop dosing and wait, although tuning the skimmer to produce a bit wetter foam might help. What symptoms are the corals showing? Have you tested for nitrite? Nitrite will confuse nitrate test kits.
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08/21/2020, 05:53 PM | #3 |
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I did test for nitrite. It was 0. Hammer has retreated and the war coral is starting to like lift off at the edge if that makes sense.
I did turn up the skimmer to make more of a wet skim. I quit dosing for the time being. Fish was breathing ok so not too worried just yet on oxygen. The cloudiness did start clearing up. Should I start dosing again tomorrow morning?
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
08/21/2020, 05:58 PM | #4 |
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I would NOT dose again yet. A water change might be in order to help the inhabitants. You say you have a new skimmer. What brand? Type? Model? Size of tank? And how long have you run it before resorting to carbon?
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
08/21/2020, 08:34 PM | #5 |
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I would avoid more dosing for a bit here. I would add some fresh carbon and consider some water changes, given that the corals are having trouble. We need to find the source of the nitrogen. I'd stop feeding for the time being, and consider removing any bio-filtration media (slowly) and maybe consider removing the sand, which needs to be done carefully. Anything that might trap debris could be an issue.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
08/22/2020, 10:30 AM | #6 |
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As a general statement, it appears that your biological (bacteria) filter has been overwhelmed by nutrient inputs. It may be that the overall system design has reached it's carrying capacity, and your best option may be to break down the tank and start over.
But it is important to find out the source of the problem, so you don't repeat it. Very long time without a water change? Did you add a medication/additive that could have harmed the bacteria? Does your system include known Nitrate factories like bio balls, blocks, etc? Do you run a bare bottom or very shallow sand bed? Do you habitually overfeed? High Nitrate levels suggest that denitrification is not happening. Deep sand beds allow for a gradient of oxygen levels that will support diversity in bacteria types, including the ones that convert Nitrate to Nitrogen gas that simply bubbles out of the water. What macro algae did you add? For your situation, you need a fast growing nutrient sponge, and that is ULVA. Plant it high up near the lights, and with those high nutrient levels you should see very high growth quickly. Good luck!
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As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance, our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018 |
08/22/2020, 01:01 PM | #7 | |
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I got a RedSea RSK300 which is rated for 300 gallons and I have approx. 70 gallons of water between tank and refugium. I had been running it about a week. I know it's not that long but I was already getting skim mate from it.
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
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08/22/2020, 01:06 PM | #8 | |
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My tank is rather old I guess. I had started it 15 years ago but 7 years ago I upgraded. I did use the same live rock but only used 50% of the sand and then put new sand in. So my thinking is to drain most of the water, remove all live rock, corals and critters and remove most of the sand bed. Refill the tank, test and if all is well put everything back in. Thoughts? Thanks again for all the advice!!
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
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08/22/2020, 01:31 PM | #9 | |
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No, I've been very diligent about maintenance as I've had a tank for 15+ years but I guess I have been overfeeding a foxface which was accumulated in the last couple of years (he's kinda demanding ). Also I acquired a pistol shrimp which has dug all under the rocks so I'm assuming he has released all the nitrates in to the water column. Not to mention the skimmer I had for years well for lack of a better term, sucked. I did finally go buy a new one. I don't have a DSB in the main but I do in the center section of my refugium which has chaeto in it. I don't have bioballs or any kind of filter floss. I was hoping that carbon dosing and cutting back on feeding would be the answer as the persistent water changes have not made a dent. I may have to change out the sand bed and do a nearly 100% water change. Fun!
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
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08/22/2020, 01:53 PM | #10 |
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"Also I acquired a pistol shrimp which has dug all under the rocks so I'm assuming he has released all the nitrates in to the water column."
It seems unlikely that your sand bed accumulated Nitrate since that is where the majority of your bacterial filter resides. Maybe I'm missing something. "…I have been overfeeding a foxface which was accumulated in the last couple of years (he's kinda demanding )." Overfeeding your fox face for a couple years could do it. Have your phosphate levels gone up too? If so, you may have found the cause.
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As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance, our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018 |
08/22/2020, 06:00 PM | #11 | |
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Thank you
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
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08/22/2020, 08:36 PM | #12 |
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I don't think that there's any point in removing the live rock. I'd just remove the sanded, and see whether that helps.
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08/22/2020, 08:59 PM | #13 |
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Have you been vacuuming the sandbed for the past 7-8 years?
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08/23/2020, 10:00 AM | #14 | |
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08/23/2020, 01:32 PM | #15 | |
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
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08/23/2020, 01:35 PM | #16 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
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08/24/2020, 05:21 PM | #17 |
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Exposing live rock to air can cause problems by killing organisms. That's fairly rare, but when the risk is easy to avoid, no need to take it.
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08/25/2020, 12:33 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
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08/25/2020, 09:56 PM | #19 |
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I would avoid doing a large water change like that. Nitrate levels can bounce back so quickly that it's not worth the risk, in my opinion.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
08/26/2020, 07:10 AM | #20 |
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Sorry to hear about yoyr problems! I would be doing larger water changes and start using activated carbon, GAC if not already. I also would definitely stop carbon dosing and I also would pull out the algae as research shows it's adding labile DOC that promotes unhealthy bacteria. Get a copy of FOrest Rohwer's "Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas" (Kindle is $10 paperback is $20) Labile DOC, AKA Carbon Dosing can cause serious problems with corals and promote the proliferation of bacteria. If possible I would get some water from a "healthy" reef ssytem for water changes to help introduce beneficial bacteria.
My guess is your problem is not nitrates specificly but something else that has caused your corals to stop feeding. Corals prefered nitrogen source is ammonia and urea so if they stop feeding nitrates will go up as more of it is converted to nitrates. Cryptic sponges also can process DOC very quickly returning nitrates back into the food chain in short order. Hopefully moving your corals won't stress them out too much but don't be surprised if you see not only an increase in nitrates but also a big jump in hair algae in your system in the coming weeks. If possible I would be adding some hardy corals and polyps.
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08/26/2020, 05:28 PM | #21 |
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Thank you all for advice! After much deliberation (and Bertoni's advice) I've decided not to do the 90% water change along with removing the sand bed that I had originally planned. In the spirit of passing along experience and education I'm going to post my findings while I carry out my plan to lower nitrates.
After looking of pictures of my tank from just last month I couldn't figure out what had drastically changed in such a short time. I have changed the things that I thought were contributing to the high nitrates, over feeding, filter media, horrible skimmer and insufficient water changes, but it did not make a difference in the nitrates. Obviously something is "manufacturing" these nitrates and that is what needs to be changed. So I'm starting with the refugium DSB. It is approx 6" deep and is about 13 years old..yes I know! So all of that has been removed. I put in new sand (rinsed of course), some live rock and put the chaeto back in. I'm going to give this a few days to settle in then I will slowly start removing the tank's sand bed in 15% increments and replace with new sand. I will report back. Hopefully with lower numbers.
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
08/28/2020, 09:06 PM | #22 |
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Okay, sounds good! I might try a few water changes to see whether removing the refugium sand has helped.
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08/29/2020, 10:11 AM | #23 |
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Well..after changing out the DSB in the refugium, approx 20% of the main tank sand bed and about 55 gallons of water in the last 2 days there is hardly any change in the nitrate level. It appears to be reading between 30-40ppm.
Plan is to still change out the sand bed and probably a better nitrate test kit. Logically if you change out the sand bed, water changes (NSW tests at 0), cut back on feeding and increase skimming how in the world can the nitrates still be this high? The only thing left to change is the live rock. So could that be the cause of nitrates? Doesn't make sense. I have blown them off with a power head before I did a water change. Any thoughts?? Thanks!!
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
08/29/2020, 05:52 PM | #24 |
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I'll have to think a bit here. Maybe some pictures of each part of the system might help with pulling some thoughts out. How much food is going into the system, and how often?
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09/12/2020, 05:29 PM | #25 |
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Sorry it took so long to get back to this post. I have tried several times to upload images to no avail. They are in my profile albums though.
Ok so over the last 10 days I have made 2 separate sand bed changes in 20% increments. I tested nitrates 5 days after the 1st 20% change and it was at 20ppm!! I am still wet skimming, running chaeto and keeping feeding to a minimum. I've changed out another 20% of the sand along with a 25 gallon water change last night. I will test nitrates in a couple of days. Then do another 20-30% sand bed change. Since the numbers are moving in the right direction I'm hopeful that the sand bed and lack of skimming is what caused the spike. Will keep posted.
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80 gal frag with 30 gal refugium, Orphek Atlantik LED, Red Sea RSK300 skimmer, predominately SPS and LPS Current Tank Info: 80 gallon reef tank with 30 gal refugium |
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