|
04/23/2014, 03:23 PM | #176 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 368
|
Wonder if pants has the time and would be willing to work with us all doing a crowd funding deal to try and come up with a proven way to kill theses guys off. I already have spent money on trying to kill mine off with zero results. I would chip in $100
|
04/23/2014, 03:27 PM | #177 |
LED world domination!
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Okeechobee, FL
Posts: 1,030
|
Exposure to water with a salinity that is ~10ppt different will kill any dinoflagellate according to him. Not much can work better than that.
Again, having several different species (with some acting similarly) and with some things working on lightening their attack to doing nothing at all poses a real problem. Next is the problem that every tank is different, with different lighting, different equipment, different filtration, different algal and bacterial inhabitants that would compete, etc etc. There is no 'one size fits all' treatment, and realistically I have doubts that any are actually treating the issue and not just causing the dinos to encyst to pop up at a later date. Luckily for most people, tanks are dismantled and sold fairly often in the hobby so they don't end up dealing with them again, only those that keep their tanks around for several years may see a resurgence. |
04/23/2014, 03:30 PM | #178 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 675
|
Quote:
__________________
.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) |
|
04/23/2014, 05:38 PM | #179 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: italia
Posts: 1
|
dino flagellati
hello myself, I have had problems with dino flagellates I tried everything but I've had them for a year.
I was able to delete them with a product called "CLEAR DROPS" SHG I HAVE TO SAY THAT IN 3 DAYS are gone. MEOBOOT ENZYMES ARE NOT A MEDICINAL |
04/23/2014, 05:58 PM | #180 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 675
|
Do they sell that here? I will pay you 6000 dollars for a bottle.
__________________
.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) |
04/23/2014, 07:31 PM | #181 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 1,401
|
It's made by the fine people that brought us Sano decades ago.
__________________
With fronds like these, who needs anemones? |
04/23/2014, 07:40 PM | #182 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 1,401
|
Quote:
Pants ID'd mine as Amphidinium, too but I had two suspect algaes and I never positively identified which was the culprit. One red/purple like the ostreopsis pics; one golden green fuzzy clumps. Massive coral mortality when the green one was in bloom, but I believe he said that species is epiphitic - it rests on other surfaces as a colony. It is a poor swimmer but migrates into the water column at night, which is why UV helped me, I think. I had wondered if the fact that I lost whole colonies in a matter of hours was due to them all settling on that coral that day. My specimen was isolated from a water column sample. I"m in for a Benjamin to fund research, too. He's been a tremendous help.
__________________
With fronds like these, who needs anemones? |
|
04/24/2014, 09:05 AM | #183 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 675
|
Quote:
I'm about 50% sure I had osteropsis in a previous tank a long time ago, and -- to be frank -- whatever dino that was actually seemed much worse. I would describe that to the naked as thinner and less globby... more stringy. And more persistent. If I do 3 days lights out on Amphidinium , it is significantly beat back. More than 5 days lights out and I won't see it for several months. Quote:
Too bad I no longer have a UV device. That'd be worth a shot. I really want to try Ozone, but it's expensive, scary, and I'm almost certain it won't work.
__________________
.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) Last edited by Squidmotron; 04/24/2014 at 09:32 AM. |
||
04/24/2014, 09:35 AM | #184 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 675
|
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) |
||
04/24/2014, 06:40 PM | #185 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 1,401
|
Quote:
Pants told me he has Dinos that eat Amphidinium. After seeing what these guys can do, I'm reluctant to treat fire with fire. Who knows what the super Dinos are capable of...
__________________
With fronds like these, who needs anemones? |
|
04/24/2014, 07:05 PM | #186 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 675
|
Let me guess. Your other tank has a less strict nutrient reduction policy? That's my case at least. ,
__________________
.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) |
04/25/2014, 03:12 AM | #187 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Iceland
Posts: 1,516
|
Quote:
In my tank there is less in the sump, but they are still obvious. In a friends tank they really took off in a new frag tank sharing the same water and lighting. Someone moved a dino rock to the dino free tank in the same system having the dinos migrate off of it. It could be as simple as the dinos finding the most favorable sports in the system since they do take the whole tour several times during each day and night. The connected tanks have dinos for sure, but they don't settle there for some reason. Dinos know what they want and flock there. --- I just found a short and very precise article by a local fish disease vet. (In Icelandic) It's about dinoflagellates and diatoms in the ocean and how they bloom and affect aquaculture here. I've met him, he is a great guy and I'm going to try to have him over for a chat. |
|
04/25/2014, 05:10 AM | #188 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 1,401
|
Quote:
__________________
With fronds like these, who needs anemones? |
|
04/25/2014, 06:12 AM | #189 |
LED world domination!
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Okeechobee, FL
Posts: 1,030
|
Well, last night I dropped a bomb on my dinos.
I drained the 10g tank that all my old coral and some rock was in, took around 20 seconds or so. I then filled the entire tank with straight RO/DI water. Took me about a minute to fill it up from the water jugs I had so I didn't splash too much lol. After it was full, I timed a full minute. After that, drained the tank again about 20 seconds. Lastly I filled it back up with new saltwater. So the rocks at the bottom of the tank got almost two minutes of freshwater exposure, stuff at the top got a little over one. Hopefully this punches them in the face! The corals looked good this morning (the lights don't come on til 11AM), so hoping for the best |
04/25/2014, 06:18 AM | #190 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Iceland
Posts: 1,516
|
That was my thought when I heard first about their freshwater intolerance.
Doing it on my 400g system would be a big challenge though. Some of your mirco-fauna must have perished as well. Please post the short and long term changes to your tank. |
04/25/2014, 06:23 AM | #191 |
LED world domination!
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Okeechobee, FL
Posts: 1,030
|
The previous freshwater dip I didn't see any microfauna death other than bristle/fireworms. Still see copepods going apey, feather dusters and sponges were all fine - I do expect to lose some of my feather dusters, unfortunately, but a quick trip to the ocean to pick up some macroalgae will fix that
|
04/25/2014, 06:49 AM | #192 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 368
|
Wow that is extreme. I run a 120g so I don't thing I would be able to pull off what you did.
I wish you luck. And just to keep everyone in the know my dinos are still shrinking since I put in the cuprisorb. |
04/25/2014, 10:21 AM | #193 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 40
|
I don't know if anyone will find this helpful, but my most recent water parameters were measured as followed. These came from AquariumWaterTesting.com, whose results I know some people find dubious - so take from them what you will.
Date Sample Taken: 03/27/14 Salinity Measured at 1.025 SG Ammonia (NH3-4): 0 Nitrite (NO2): 0.008 Nitrate (NO3): 2.3 Phosphate (PO4): 0 Silica (Sio2-3): 0.9 Potassium (K): 229 Ionic Calcium (Ca): 275 Molybdenum (Mo): 0.1 Strontium (Sr): 7.5 Magnesium (Mg): 1438 Iodine (I): 0.04 Copper (Cu): 0.03 Alkalinity (meq/L): 4.1 Total Calcium (Ca): 440 Boron (B): Not tested Iron (Fe): Not tested My pH generally runs 8.19-8.34 throughout the daily cycle. According to AWT, the silica, magnesium and copper levels were rated as too high, and potassium was rated too low (I'd stopped dosing potassium as I thought the dinos might be making use of it). All other levels were rated good. I find this interesting because some people have suggested that silica and copper were related to dino blooms, and that reducing these elements has helped cut back on the dino population. Maybe that's what got it started in my case. |
04/25/2014, 01:07 PM | #194 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 675
|
I'd be curious about iron since some reefers have claimed a correlation. I have never measured a single phosphate level either with a dinos outbreak. Which technically should be bad for living things. 2 test kits and a Hanna Checker reported absolute 0.
__________________
.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) |
04/25/2014, 01:08 PM | #195 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 675
|
Quote:
Another crackpot hypothesis busted, then, for me. *sigh*
__________________
.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) |
|
04/26/2014, 02:21 AM | #196 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Iceland
Posts: 1,516
|
Quote:
The most common are diatoms, dinoflagellates and [calcareous plankton]. These need mostly nitrates, phosphates, silica and light to thrive. They take turns to bloom given the ocean conditions at a given time and they color the ocean in brown, white, green, red etc. What causes this is mostly about the mixing of the nutritious deeper sea to the upper layers where there is bright sunlight. The masses they produce are immense and essential to life in general. If we only could keep them from blooming in our tanks we would be fine. |
|
04/29/2014, 07:09 PM | #197 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 368
|
Anyone else willing to try cuprisorb to combat Dino? I currently am and it really seems to be working for me so far. Please see my thread in the advanced forum about rust and dino
|
04/29/2014, 07:56 PM | #198 |
LED world domination!
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Okeechobee, FL
Posts: 1,030
|
For my amusement, I just put a bag of Cuprisorb into my QT tank.
On 4/25 I did my ultimate FW exposure to the tank. On 4/28, this is what I come home from work to find: Envy me. |
04/29/2014, 08:05 PM | #199 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 675
|
Beautiful dino showcase pics!
__________________
.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) |
04/29/2014, 08:06 PM | #200 |
LED world domination!
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Okeechobee, FL
Posts: 1,030
|
Yeah yeah, I'm the prettiest girl at the ball.
|
|
|