Understanding and choosing t5 Ballast. diy

[banthonyb71]

Just a heads up, I will be actively involved in this thread and I plan on acting on every diy I inquire about on this forum, I do not want to waste your valued time asking questions I never plan to commit too.

There are several projects I wanted to try diy and although a t5 fixture is not at the top of the list. it something that will keep my attention being that concerns electronics is more of my feild than anything else.

I wanted to build a t5 fixture from the ground up but first, I wanted to learn everything I can about t5 ballast, what makes one better than the other, which one is better for this hobby.

The sticky on this thread there is a links page that has a company that sells electronic ballast. If I wanted to use one of these ballasts for a diy as oppose to using old icecap ballasts or ballasts from a branded fixture. What am I looking for? ie.e wattage, voltage, efficiency? and I know this is alot to ask to be explain but.. is there already a page with this information on it? or someone who has done this before?

[tkeracer619]

If you run a vue 660 (icecap) you are going to overdrive the t5 bulbs. They need fans and won't last as long.

I just setup a diy fixture for my nem tank.




I used 6 39w t5 with individual reflectors. Running 3 Sylvania 51479 ballasts. These are proper t5 ballasts that will not overdrive the bulbs.

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

If you run a vue 660 (icecap) you are going to overdrive the t5 bulbs. They need fans and won't last as long.

Running 3 Sylvania 51479 ballasts. These are proper t5 ballasts that will not overdrive the bulbs.

but what makes one ballast better than another. what are things you look for in a quality ballast?

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

If you run a vue 660 (icecap) you are going to overdrive the t5 bulbs. They need fans and won't last as long.

I wasnt particularly wanting to use that ballast but since you mentioned it. Could you not set up a diy system to cool those ballasts?

and are these the same ballasts?
http://www.marinedepot.com/CoralVue_...ACBAFL-vi.html

[tkeracer619]

The bulbs need fans not the ballast when overdriven. Can't tell you what makes a good ballast but the sylvanias seem to be trusted and recommended as being good actual t5 ballasts. Vue and Workhorse aren't. It has to do with the start iirc.

Those ballasts I used came with a 5 year warranty as well.

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

The bulbs need fans not the ballast when overdriven. Can't tell you what makes a good ballast but the sylvanias seem to be trusted and recommended as being good actual t5 ballasts. Vue and Workhorse aren't. It has to do with the start iirc.

Those ballasts I used came with a 5 year warranty as well.

lol. you seem adamant about talking me out of a ballast, I never said I wanted to use. Actually, I only mentioned that ballast because I wanted to do the opposite and avoid its mention because every search I've done on the subject, those ballast get talked about alot. but I'm just curious about ballast in general. If such info does exist. Not so much about brands or model numbers.

[uncleof6]

Originally Posted by banthonyb71

I wasnt particularly wanting to use that ballast but since you mentioned it. Could you not set up a diy system to cool those ballasts?

and are these the same ballasts?
http://www.marinedepot.com/CoralVue_...ACBAFL-vi.html

These ballasts can and have caused catastrophic failure of T5/HO lamps. Due to catastrophic failures, IceCap was forced to have special lamps manufactured. They went kaput a while back. 660s (and 440s) are not T5/HO ballasts, (T5/VHO is a myth) they are T12/VHO ballasts, and do not have the proper current limiting required by T5/HO lamps, nor do they have the proper start characteristics for T5/HO lamps, or the end of life circuitry. Sure folks use them, but that does not make it safe, advisable, or even necessary. It just means folks do it. All in all, you are just burning more watts to drive a lighting technology that is supposed to be more efficient than T12: a self defeating way to do things. If one really wishes to burn up the watts, build a T12/VHO fixture! Stunning displays are possible with T12/VHO, and T8 as well... I have seen them. Snoop around GARF.org, if ya think I am out of my mind...

If the temperature of the lamp is not correct, the output decreases. Excessively overheating of the lamps, cannot be covered up by cooling fans. T5/HO is a very different technology than T12 or T8. T5/HO is also the very first fluorescent technology that requires an electronic ballast, and there is no magnetic ballast that will run them.

There is absolutely no reason to overdrive T5/HO lamps. Normally driven T5/HO with good quality reflectors, is capable of everything that MH has done. If you have a deep dimensioned tank (top to bottom) you may have to be more selective as to where you place your critters, or just go back to Metal Halide. There is also a great deal of mythology surrounding the actual light needs of the critters we keep, so that needs to be kept in mind. I run clams in the sand on 29" tall tanks, anyone can, using normally driven T5/HO. (There is a plenum system in the bottom, but who is looking. )

T5/HO ballasts are application specific. Each ballast is intended to run one type of T5/HO lamp, F54T5/HO for instance, for a 48" (46.something actually) 54 watt T5/HO lamp. (Other lamps may be listed, but they are related to T5/HO.) They use a programmed start, not an instant start. (Instant start can and does cause failure of the filaments, and cooling won't help.)

End of life circuitry is not critical really, as most often the lamps are replaced before they reach their end of life.

EDIT: So you heard the talk anyway LOL. Going to leave it here for others.

Advance ballasts are the most reliable T5/HO ballasts on the market. They are correct T5/HO ballasts, and are plenty for our purposes.







That is an ICN-2S54 ballast from Advance. The light you see in the background is these lamps output reflecting off the ceiling. I typically run 8 - 12 over average sized tanks.

[tkeracer619]

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by uncleof6

EDIT: So you heard the talk anyway LOL. Going to leave it here for others.

Duly noted. lol. Stay away from Ice Cap for overdriving t5's. I can assure you, I have no interest in those ballasts. however, I read a thread in which you did recommend diy t5 fixture.

So lets ask this. what type of ballast is in say.. an ATI PowerModule?

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by uncleof6

T

Advance ballasts are the most reliable T5/HO ballasts on the market. They are correct T5/HO ballasts, and are plenty for our purposes.

I ran a search and they average around $30. Is that the correct part? seems cheap.

[tkeracer619]

Yes, it is. They are reasonably priced.

[uncleof6]

Originally Posted by banthonyb71

Duly noted. lol. Stay away from Ice Cap for overdriving t5's. I can assure you, I have no interest in those ballasts. however, I read a thread in which you did recommend diy t5 fixture.

So lets ask this. what type of ballast is in say.. an ATI PowerModule?

A T5/HO ballast of the proper specifications, made by HEP. They are electronic, programmed start ballasts, very much the same as the Advance ICN series.

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by uncleof6

A T5/HO ballast of the proper specifications, made by HEP. They are electronic, programmed start ballasts, very much the same as the Advance ICN series.

So.. is there 1 part number or different versions? I seen one had a 90c at the end of that part number.

I want to do 6 lamp 65 watt. how many ballasts would I need? 3?

[uncleof6]

Originally Posted by banthonyb71

So.. is there 1 part number or different versions? I seen one had a 90c at the end of that part number.

I want to do 6 lamp 65 watt. how many ballasts would I need? 3?

65 watt is not a T5/HO Lamp, and part numbers are all different; 90c is a temperature.

There is 54 watt (F54T5HO; 48") or 80 watt (F80T5HO; 60".) ICN-2S54-T for 54 watt, and ICN-1S80-T for 80 watt lamps. Advance does not make a dual for 80 watt lamps. HEP ballast numbers are: SI254-58 UNI, and SI280 UNI, respectively.

For 6x 54 watt lamps you need three ballasts, for 80 watt, you need 3x ballasts if HEP, and 6x if using Advance.

[Jone]

tagggin

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by uncleof6

65 watt is not a T5/HO Lamp, and part numbers are all different; 90c is a temperature.

There is 54 watt (F54T5HO; 48") or 80 watt (F80T5HO; 60".) ICN-2S54-T for 54 watt, and ICN-1S80-T for 80 watt lamps. Advance does not make a dual for 80 watt lamps. HEP ballast numbers are: SI254-58 UNI, and SI280 UNI, respectively.

For 6x 54 watt lamps you need three ballasts, for 80 watt, you need 3x ballasts if HEP, and 6x if using Advance.

sorry, I knew dat. 54 watts for my length. So u mentioned temp. are they different temperatures or was seller just mentioning that temp and adding to part number?

So I need INC-2s54-t

U sure bout this? cause Im gonna pull the trigger and buy these things. I've read through ur threads and Im trustin ur knowledge

[tkeracer619]

No, they are not different temps. That is the max case temp allowed. If it gets hotter the ballast will degrade.

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by banthonyb71

or was seller just mentioning that temp and adding to part number?

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

No, they are not different temps.

Just a question. I have no clue. never implied I did. when I see a number in a part number..better to ask.

http://www.ballastshop.com/icn-2s54-t.html

[uncleof6]

Originally Posted by banthonyb71

sorry, I knew dat. 54 watts for my length. So u mentioned temp. are they different temperatures or was seller just mentioning that temp and adding to part number?

So I need INC-2s54-t

U sure bout this? cause Im gonna pull the trigger and buy these things. I've read through ur threads and Im trustin ur knowledge

Advance Centium ICN-2S54, right from the ballast case. It is also listed in their catalog as ICN-2S54. Some places it is listed as ICN-2S54-T; even Advance has it listed that way in their spec sheets.

An ICN-2S54-90c-T ballast is the "same," but has a max ballast case temperature of 90°C for warranty purposes, rather than the standard 70°C warranty on the standard ICN-2S54-T.

The important part is the ICN-2S54, the line voltage: 120/277, and the line frequency: 50/60Hz.

Just for grins, the ballast frequency is above 40KHz.

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by uncleof6

Advance Centium ICN-2S54

As stated before, a t5 project was definitely something I was interested in making happen as soon as possible. but now I'm having doubts on if what I'm trying to do is smart. I wanted to attempt to make a t5 fixture from scratch. but I've been reading every thread I could find for the last several days and I dont see people doing what I'm trying to do. Essentially people either use retro kits or assemble a new fixture out of a fixture they already have. I dont have a fixture in the size I want.

Is there even a point in me buying these ballast if I have to buy them with a retro kit anyway?

If possible I would like to use high quality reflectors. but who makes them? Let? Ati? any recommendations on where I can buy individual parts or a way I can buy reflectors, balllasts, seperate?

[uncleof6]

Originally Posted by banthonyb71

As stated before, a t5 project was definitely something I was interested in making happen as soon as possible. but now I'm having doubts on if what I'm trying to do is smart. I wanted to attempt to make a t5 fixture from scratch. but I've been reading every thread I could find for the last several days and I dont see people doing what I'm trying to do. Essentially people either use retro kits or assemble a new fixture out of a fixture they already have. I dont have a fixture in the size I want.

Is there even a point in me buying these ballast if I have to buy them with a retro kit anyway?

If possible I would like to use high quality reflectors. but who makes them? Let? Ati? any recommendations on where I can buy individual parts or a way I can buy reflectors, balllasts, seperate?

Whether an assembled retro would be worth it or not, depends on what ballast comes with the retro. Not all retros are created equal, and they do not all have the proper ballast (doesn't have to be Advance or HEP, just proper.)

On the other hand, a DIY retro...

http://www.hellolights.com/48-Inch-5...&searchSize=12

Building a custom fixture is a decision you have to make. I have done many of them, and so have others. I think most folks are more apt to get in trouble cannibalizing another fixture, rather than starting from scratch. It is not that hard really. You need a surface to mount the end caps, and the rest just goes together. You have to understand, you are not going to be building an ATI Powermodule. The secret to the powermodule is in the cooling system, (case design,) the tombstone end caps, and the reflectors, Aquactinics are comparable. (And then they go and ruin it by adding LEDs.)

Parts are readily available, other than tombstone end caps used to make narrower fixtures than the "water resistant big white end caps." Aquactinics markets very high quality reflectors arguably the best since IceCap is kaput. No. 1 and No. 2 respectively. They are not advertised on their website, you have to call them.

Ballasts are available all day long online. They may cost more than locally sourced, (trade electrical supply houses.) Watch the start type (programmed start, not instant start) and stay away from Fulham, the least reliable ballasts on the market.

https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/f...cent-ballasts/

End caps a dime a dozen.

The hardest thing to find is 18 gauge solid copper wire, which makes the Hellolights' deal very attractive.

[Kyuss]

Good to hear some feedback on the Advance ballasts. I posted in another T5 thread recently about replacing ballasts for 2x 80w T5s and seems proper F80T5HO ballasts aren't all that common, and then to find a reliable place with them in stock; I can find 18ga solid copper wire a lot easier than this.

After the mess with ordering the Sola ballasts from 1000bulbs (appeared as in-stock, no note to call them to make sure etc, but then switched to back ordered til 3/4 after I ordered 2 and they emailed me as such) I found a place in driving distance that has 2 ICN-1S80s in stock. Think I'll be taking a little trip to the store soon.

[banthonyb71]

Originally Posted by uncleof6

(doesn't have to be Advance or HEP, just proper.

whats the difference between these and the advance ballasts at a home depot or lowes?

Originally Posted by uncleof6

" Aquactinics markets very high quality reflectors arguably the best.

what is the website? I cant seem to find. Is LET now Aquactinics? I was reading some forums and I read that a company that is now LET has some of the highest quality reflectors available. are we speaking of the same? This is the only site I found
http://letlighting.com/ Which is not much of a site.

Originally Posted by uncleof6

The hardest thing to find is 18 gauge solid copper wire.

I can make myself useful here. we build emergency vehicles. we using nohing but high quality true gauge wire.

[uncleof6]

Originally Posted by banthonyb71

whats the difference between these and the advance ballasts at a home depot or lowes?

They are ICN-4S54-90c-2LS-G if HD has them for 36 bones, grab it... that ballast can be as high as 202 bones. But you will still need to pick up an ICN-2S54.

what is the website? I cant seem to find. Is LET now Aquactinics? I was reading some forums and I read that a company that is now LET has some of the highest quality reflectors available. are we speaking of the same? This is the only site I found
http://letlighting.com/ Which is not much of a site.

This is their contact info:

Aquactinics, LLC
5 Philips Pl.
North Haven, CT 06473
(203) 234-9286

If the phone is disconnected they might have gone bye bye. I have been on their website before, and it was a nice website. Don't find it now.... last tweet was 1 Jan 2011... might have to stop talking about them.

I can make myself useful here. we build emergency vehicles. we using nohing but high quality true gauge wire.

[Kyuss]

Originally Posted by banthonyb71

whats the difference between these and the advance ballasts at a home depot or lowes?

Looks like Home Depot actually carries the correct Advance ones for F54T5HO, at least online. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-A...2211/202977281

On Lowes website I can only find T8 & T12 ballasts.

Ballasts have a "ballast factor" that is determines how they drive a bulb for the bulbs they're designed to drive. A low BF (<1.0) is under-driving a lamp so it'll put out less than the bulbs rated lumens, but will extend the life of the bulb. A high BF (>1.0) will over-drive the bulbs so it'll put out more than the rated lumens, but will shorten the life of the bulb. A BF of 1.0 means the bulbs operate at the intended spec for T5HO and so at their stated spec.

Ballasts like the Icecap 660 that are notorious for over-driving T5HO bulbs are actually designed for T8 & T12. They work, but being that they weren't designed for T5HO spec you get what you get, which happens to be an over-driven T5HO bulb. I haven't seen the manufacturer(s) list a ballast factor for these on T5HOs which makes sense since that wasn't what they were intended for, but I've read it would equate to something like a 1.2 BF, which is quite high (20% over-driven.) Not sure how accurate that is however. Over or under-driving a bulb will also shift the color spectrum a bit from it's intended range.

There's also the start type - instant start, rapid start, and programmed rapid start. The programmed rapid start ballasts, while not required, are said to lengthen the life of the bulb. Instant and rapid start ballasts are said to blacken the ends of the bulb over time, particularly instant start.

Ballasts like the Advance Centiums are designed for the T5HO spec so they have a BF of 1.0 and are also programmed rapid start ballasts all for $30-$40. It doesn't make too much sense to cut corners here when bulbs are $20+ a pop. Instead of over-driving the bulbs you'd be better off adding two more bulbs, rather than having to switch all of your other bulbs out more often, deal with hotter running bulbs, and the shift in color spectrum. 54W and lower bulbs you can run two bulbs on one ballasts so even with reflectors & bulbs it's not long before you're back ahead money wise, and from what I've gathered 80W bulbs take to over-driving the worst.