Sump leveling near a floor drain?

[happyclam]

Renovating a tropical marine display for my college. I want to install a sump to be able to run a chaeto vegetable filter.



This aquarium will be retrofitted into the sump, and this is the best spot to put it. You can see in the reflection in the glass that there is a floor drain a couple inches away from the sump. As such, the floor is graded to drain. What is the best way to support + level the sump on this uneven floor while keeping it overall as low profile as possible? I am looking to put a HPS lamp overhead to illuminate the refugium and would like to leave as much overhead space as possible to allow access + ventilation.

Would like to hear your thoughts. Cheers!

[wattos-reef]

Does the sump rock back-and-forth or is it stable? Any twisting forces on the base are certainly to be avoided.

I have a similar situation with the tile and drain and while it's not perfectly level (very slight slope to the drain), there's no rocking action. To smooth out the moderate unevenness in the tile floor, I just placed a piece of neoprene foam under the (acrylic) sump.

Is there any sizable gap between the floor and front-center of the bottom where the floor may dip for flow towards the drain?

[davocean]

Just shim it same as most every tank on here.

[rffanat1c]

If the rim of that tank is touching the floor everywhere that's all that matters. Glass tanks are all supported on the rim


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[truffle22]

I can weld u up a frame that fits that tank and I can put simple feet on it that will allow u to level ur tank. I.e. Basically a nut and bolt foot so I can adjust up and down.That the lowes profile I can think of. Pm me if ur interested


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[bhbell]

Plastic tray slightly larger than sump. Put it in place and then use self leveling cement (check the flooring section of home depot or lowes) in the tray. Would give you a level surface to work with. Tray should be flexible enough to roughly mold itself to the uneven slope. It may take a little heating and then cooling it while send begged in place to get it set in some cases.

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[bhbell]

Frikken auto correct, hat should be "sand bagged" not "send begged".

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[happyclam]

Thanks all who have contributed so far! Really helps.

So a little more info after looking more closely at how tank is sitting: the four corners and the back and side rims make reasonably solid contact with tile. There is some rocking but I figure a 1/2" of 1" sheet of foam will dampen that. However, the floor slope to the drain creates a ~1/2" valley under the front rim of the sump, as pictured:



As can kinda see, there is no gap at the front corners, but then there is an increasing gap as you look towards the center of the front rim. The center has the biggest gap, at about 1/2". Is this feasible to shim, or should I look towards to the option of having a stand made with adjustable leveling feet?

Thanks all!

[truffle22]

Hey i've been trying to message you for the past two or three days. But it looks like my messages are being sent to you. Here's my number 408-916-7457


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[PorkChop]

I'd guess you could do something really simple like make a 2x4 frame to put under it.. then shim that?


-Porkchop

[CafeReef]

does the university have a welding class? or art class that deals in metal work?

Have them weld together a square tube frame similar to the legs on the table, short legs with adjustable feet maybe a few inches tall just to get it up off the floor. then it will sit perfectly flat, no matter the floor situation.

[davocean]

I'm not sure why people are suggesting welding a metal frame or anything complicated, shims are all that is needed really.
The tank is supported by the trim, just shim it level and place them every 6" or so, done deal, unless you WANT to do something fancy.

[Pseudo69]

Why bother shimming? If the edges of the tank are level then just use a sheet of 3/4" ply under the sump which would support the whole sump and doesn't need shimming. Protect the wood by sealing it or painting it. Simple

[bhbell]

Just a little curious about the pump shown in the pic. Is it part of a closed loop? How is it for corrosion sitting exposed above a sump? I've had a few of them and they have been corrosion magnets sitting beside the sump as return pumps.

[davocean]

Originally Posted by Pseudo69

Why bother shimming? If the edges of the tank are level then just use a sheet of 3/4" ply under the sump which would support the whole sump and doesn't need shimming. Protect the wood by sealing it or painting it. Simple

Why add a piece of something that will hold and soak water and subject to rot and the expense of ply and paint and time involved when a $4 pack of composite shims slipped in to level and fill voids will do in minutes?
Really it's the ideal floor, you've got tile and a drain right there, why clog it up w/ anything more than what is needed?

[Pseudo69]

I sealed the bottom of my stand with epoxy sealant for $4. No rot no issues for 4 years. The wood would still be above the drain because the floor is pitched. So if you are shimming every part of the sump that is not touching the floor it is more than just minutes. Think of the board as just one long shim and it doesn't have to be made of wood

[davocean]

Think of it as adding ply and paint on top of shimming, because no matter what the shims will still need to be put there anyway to make that ply meet the bottom of the tank and do anything

[happyclam]

Thanks for the input everyone! Much appreciated.

Originally Posted by bhbell

Just a little curious about the pump shown in the pic. Is it part of a closed loop? How is it for corrosion sitting exposed above a sump? I've had a few of them and they have been corrosion magnets sitting beside the sump as return pumps.

Yes, it is a closed loop to power the chiller. All of the plumbing was in place when I was brought on. Surprisingly, no corrosion on the pump despite what you can see is happening to the stand. I am planning to reconfigure the closed loop and the pump will placed off to the side, away from the new sump.

Originally Posted by davocean

Why add a piece of something that will hold and soak water and subject to rot and the expense of ply and paint and time involved when a $4 pack of composite shims slipped in to level and fill voids will do in minutes?
Really it's the ideal floor, you've got tile and a drain right there, why clog it up w/ anything more than what is needed?

Do you worry about not having the tank cushioned by a sheet of styrofoam or similar? Otherwise the simple composite shim route that slightly raises the tank above the floor is appealing for days like today when I wash down the whole floor with the garden hose.

[davocean]

Originally Posted by happyclam

Do you worry about not having the tank cushioned by a sheet of styrofoam or similar? Otherwise the simple composite shim route that slightly raises the tank above the floor is appealing for days like today when I wash down the whole floor with the garden hose.

That is exactly why I suggest you do it that way, your floor is meant to shed water to the drain, why clutter that up.

[ADVRESOURCE]

Originally Posted by davocean

Why add a piece of something that will hold and soak water and subject to rot and the expense of ply and paint and time involved when a $4 pack of composite shims slipped in to level and fill voids will do in minutes?
Really it's the ideal floor, you've got tile and a drain right there, why clog it up w/ anything more than what is needed?

+1 this is definitely the trick. Composite shims don't absorbe water and will make your sump stable.