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02/18/2014, 08:30 PM | #76 | |
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More higher blue (465-480nm)/cyan eliminates the purple hue, green doesn't do all that great a job, but it does get the job done with enough green light. |
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02/18/2014, 10:44 PM | #77 | ||
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I'm sorry I didn't clarify what I meant by the "greens" since the lumias nor any of the leds I show on my diagram are true "green" rather they are all 495nm, which is listed as "Turquoise" on the led group buy site. So with that being said, my best description for the hue which I did not like, was a purplish hue...which was only apparent in a subtle manner when I had my UV channels on...of which I countered with a Turquoise 495nm supplementation from the Lumias. When I mix the warm whites and the blues, in any ratio, I do not see this hue which I do not like. Therefore, based on this, and your information, the hue I am seeing must not be purple, and rather some other color. regardless, when I increase the % of Turquoise light, this unknown hue is washed away. So again, I'm so sorry for speaking so cavalier with regard to the proper terms. |
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02/18/2014, 10:55 PM | #78 | |
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I begin to appreciate why the Pacific Sun fixture has 9 channels of control.
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02/18/2014, 11:01 PM | #79 | |
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yeah the lumias have CREE XPE2 Blue which is the 475 I think you're referring to, and then the Turquoise as well.
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02/19/2014, 12:52 AM | #80 |
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Lot's of people report the "UV" LEDs in the 405 to 420nm range look very bright pink/purple to them, even in very small amounts. It has to due with our eyes, and everyone's different unique perception to light. Some like very actinic tanks that are heavy on these wavelengths, some can't stand the look. Too each their own, the coral could really care less, anything in adequate amounts in the 420 to 480 range will produce great coral growth. the rest is just up to us to decide what we like to look at!
Me, I perceive low nanometer violets as a pale blue color, barely noticeable if not for the florescence they produce. Many see one UV led in their tank casting a horrible pink or purple color, me I dominate my builds with them because I like the look they produce. There are many accounts in this regard, you simply have to see them and make up your own mind, everyone's eyes are different...... Most flourescent bulbs and MH balance this out pretty well with green and red in the spectrum but LEDs can be very heavy on this end, since the green and red spikes in thier spectrum are less drastic, so you just have to see them to know what you will like. Again, the coral couldn't care less if it is getting adequate amounts of anything between 420 and 480 it will grow and do fine, the symbiotic zooxanthellae are very adaptable. |
02/19/2014, 12:55 AM | #81 | |
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Best thing to do right now is just look for LED combos that are similar to the spectrum of other lights you like and go with those. Combine the right ones and dimming each channel is not needed. Only problem is that takes a good deal of trial and error for most people. |
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02/19/2014, 01:14 AM | #82 |
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I enjoy the discussion about the different mixtures getting rid of the purple hue. My tank has a slight purple hue (I don't like the purple look, but mine is very mild and tolerable). I am still a little curious about the effects of the multichip on the disco effect/banding. If possible, could you upload a video of your sand when there's a lot of surface agitation? I'm curious to see the limit that can be pushed in regards to this issue.
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02/19/2014, 01:28 AM | #83 | |
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02/19/2014, 04:13 PM | #84 |
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A quick video of the disco...of which I don't think there is any...but you can decide if it meets your standards.
Again please dont judge the placement of corals yet...still haven't gotten around to fixing all of that http://youtu.be/YF7SdX7s_WM |
02/19/2014, 08:44 PM | #85 | |
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Seems like a single Lumia to play with is probably the best place to start (don't need to learn to solder first).
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02/19/2014, 11:56 PM | #86 | |
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02/20/2014, 12:01 AM | #87 | |
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over all not bad at all but for me the blue shadowing eveing in the static pics would bother me. could you post a video with only the lumias? |
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02/20/2014, 12:02 AM | #88 | |
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02/20/2014, 12:46 AM | #89 | |
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02/20/2014, 01:28 AM | #90 | ||
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When you provide light from an led it radiates out from a point source. So say you have a coral like right underneath that light...it get's the light beams from directly above it. SPS will tend to form their polyps and coloration wherever the light hits them "enough." this is why a lot of led users complain about the "shading" effect where this was not an issue for the MH users.
For MH, there is a reflector there to bounce the light from many different angles...and not only from directly above the coral...but also from an offset at whatever the radius of the reflector is. This minimizes shading and the polyps fully develop on nearly all sides of the SPS coral, making it more attractive, and color more uniformly. I pointed this out earlier, but the lumias cover a 24x24 area...but there are low par areas at the edge of their 24x24 area...so the supplemental lighting is to provide light from many different angles in a MH-like pattern, and fill in the gaps the lumias dont. Overall the cost to light my tank is WELL below the industry average for lighting...so adding the extra $80 in the supplemental lighting was a no brainer. Quote:
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Last edited by Aqualund; 02/20/2014 at 01:39 AM. |
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02/20/2014, 01:31 AM | #91 | |
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But I will gladly answer any questions anyone has. Last edited by Aqualund; 02/20/2014 at 01:38 AM. |
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02/20/2014, 01:56 AM | #92 |
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Well I wanted to say thanks for posting all that you have done. I feel like you have been pretty upfront with what worked and what didn't work well. I think something like the Lumia chip with multiple chips spread over an array would be an interesting thing to try to replace T5s someday for me.
I have been doing a lot of research and it seems like the trick to properly mimic T5s is to balance red, green, and blue to provide the appearance of white without overdoing the yellow or red. Spreading the chips out over an array would provide the coverage and minimize shading, i would run them individually at lower outputs. When you get a bunch more of these made it would be interesting to see what kind of par they could generate when they are clustered closer together.
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02/20/2014, 11:17 AM | #93 | |
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For some reason or other, all the manufacturers out there like clusters of 20 to 25 LEDs. GHL does use 12 LED clusters. That seems a lot closer to optimum from what I have read to date. We all owe Aqualund a bit thanks for being the guinea p, um, on the leading edge here.
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02/20/2014, 08:16 PM | #94 | |
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02/22/2014, 01:19 PM | #95 |
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Great thread.. My set up is no where near as complex. I have a 65 gallon RedSea Max 250. I am looking to refresh my current set up. I retrofitted LEDs into my hood years ago. Looking to make a change.
I have been researching the Lumia 5.2s.. So was wondering if I keep my existing hood and build with just 2 Lumia 5.2 with five Meanwell LDD drivers and I would use my existing typhoon controller is this going to provide enough lite? My tank has an array of LPS and sps with a few fish. I have poor growth in my tank and the color has been meh at best. Hence why I am looking to go this route. Let me know your thoughts appreciate any help. Thanks. |
02/22/2014, 01:49 PM | #96 |
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I think it would provide enough light, but I don't think it would give good enough coverage. I would use one 5.2 in the middle and then like 6 3-up clusters on the edges to give good coverage and omnidirectional light.
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02/22/2014, 01:53 PM | #97 |
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As i had 3/4 of my led lightning setup (custom DIY multichip full spectrum led) when lumia 5.2 came on market i decided to transpose in multichip the 5.2 configuration. So i order 4 multichip 25w led with 5 chanels. Eache chanel as 5x 45mil chips in it with 15-17V Vf so i can connect in serie 2 of this led and have a better ligth pattern with only 5 LDD driver instead 2x 50W and 10 LDD driver.
The chips distribution is the 5.2 one Leds are under way to home. Here is a picture the factory send me I will power 2x in serie with 5 LDD-350h driver connected on a 36V SMPS unit. |
02/22/2014, 02:32 PM | #98 | |
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Thanks Aqualund.. When you say 3-up clusters should I be looking for something specific? Sorry still really very new to this.
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02/22/2014, 04:40 PM | #99 | |
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thedru13 Just do a search for 3 up star cluster...or go specifically to the led group buy site. You'll pay more for their pre-assembly...compared to getting everything yourself and making them yourself...but its still pretty cheap. Just alternate between the royal blue/warm white and royal blue/natural white 3-up clusters. (3 of each) |
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02/22/2014, 05:33 PM | #100 | |
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Awesome thanks again for your help.. Pricing everything out now. Assuming i would have to solder for this? Was going to try and re use the heat sync i have on there now. Save a few bucks where i can.
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