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Old 02/04/2005, 10:36 PM   #101
ReefWaters
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DSparks, I'm not worried about the cost of the acrylic as much as the way it would look at the back corners. The tank silicone would make it difficult, if not impossible, to get the acrylic flush to the back wall AND the sides. As for seeing the overflow, I'm not worried about that either, it will cover with corraline soon enough covering any black acrylic that was once there. Another reason not to add the acrylic.

steve68, so the Coralife bulbs don't have the internal reflectors? I may try those next time I have to replace my bulbs.

As for the acrylic to glass bond, I know it does bond but you all are probably right about it not being "as strong." If I do this, I will probably go with the glass as well. Steve, I'm assuming your overflow is very solid? No problems?

Thanks for the responses.


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Old 02/05/2005, 06:01 AM   #102
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i like the coralife bulbs they seem to bring out a little more green on some of corals but not all, but i love the URI bulbs on my other tank the atinic just looks more intense.
IME i have used acrylic for inside sumps & it has worked well but for external use glass is much stronger, the external overflow is rock solid there is no way it's going to fail,once u do it u will see how strong it is.


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Old 02/05/2005, 06:13 AM   #103
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here is a picture of my white tip, it's brown with slight green when all the lights are on
but when the MH go out this is what it looks like.

with all the lights on


i have the same one in my other tank & it looks nothing like this
under the URI, but it's the only one that jumps out with the green
& it's not my water cuz once a week i do 10 gallons of RO/DI & every
other week i take 10 gallons form my main set up & add to
this tank.


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Old 02/06/2005, 05:51 PM   #104
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Steve,

You have an absolutlely beautiful tank! I love the view from the end... I used to have a 75, and my favorite view of it was looking end to end. Yours looks so natural, just like the "patch reefs" I am so fond of seeing when I dive. I often hover for long periods of time over these type of small coral patches just to see how much life I can find on them. I've spent entire dives doing this, and your aquascaping reminded me of them.

The cabinetry, wiring, and plumbing are all first-rate as well. Thanks for sharing... So many of the great write-ups and how to's are often centered around behemoth-size tanks, and it was refreshing to see such great detail on a tank of sane proportions!


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Old 02/06/2005, 09:42 PM   #105
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Steve, if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the glass you got cut? What finish did you have done to the edges, and did you cut the holes, or did they?


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Old 02/07/2005, 07:10 PM   #106
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steve thank you.
i know what u mean i find myself looking from the front all the time now,my wife loves the view from the front 2 she cant get enough of it & now she has me hooked on it

Greg the glass was 35 but thats because it was so long, i dint have the edges polished just had them sanded & yes i cut the holes my self with u guess it "the tile bit"


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Old 02/07/2005, 10:54 PM   #107
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I just picked up a tile bit this evening. I just got a whole mess of bulkheads in from Aquatic Ecosystems and way too much PVC from Lowes, so I plan on cutting a bunch of holes this week. I need to get my tank back in... well... my tank. The stock tank thing is driving me nuts.


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Old 02/08/2005, 06:21 AM   #108
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cool start a thread on ur tank & link it here
i like watching that from the start



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Old 02/08/2005, 09:57 PM   #109
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I would, but all I have for a digicam is my cell phone, and it only takes 640x480 grainy pictures. I'll try to steal a camera from work once everything is done though and get some pics up. There are some pics in my gallery of my old setup. The tank, stand, lights, sump, and main pump are staying, but everything else is changing. All new plumbing, surge device, 30G fuge, and I haven't decided on the overflow box yet, but it's probably going to be external like yours.


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Old 02/09/2005, 06:29 AM   #110
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Nice!


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Old 02/09/2005, 02:31 PM   #111
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I'm installing a 36x18x22 tank in wall. As this is the biggest tank I can get (space allotted by wife), I was worried the internal overlflow would take up to much room. After reading this thread I'm going to build an external overflow. First, I need to pick up some more tools and a 10g to practice.

Thanks Steve for posting all the pictures.


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Old 02/09/2005, 04:17 PM   #112
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no problem anything i can do to help out just let me know.
if u practice on a 10 gallon it might (or might not) crack just remember the thicker the glass the better,also keep in mind that u are shaving the glass not cutting on a 10 gallon u should go through like butter with the tile bit


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Current Tank Info: 50 Breeder with 250w MH 10k XM bulb & 2 24inch VHO atinic 03,210 gallon Reef tank. 3 250 W MH,MRC CR-2 Reactor & MR-2 Skimmer,150 gallon sump,125 gallon refugium,75 Gallon Frag Tank & adding more water volume every t
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Old 02/09/2005, 07:53 PM   #113
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I tried the tile bit on a piece of 1/8" glass I had laying around from an old 10G tank, and it did cut alot faster than the diamond bit and it definately left a better edge. I used a 35k RPM dremel. I'm going after the 30 this weekend.


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Old 02/10/2005, 06:24 AM   #114
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Nice !


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Old 02/11/2005, 12:15 AM   #115
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I think I'm pretty much settled on the external overflow now. I have a couple of questions about when you cut the glass.

How much "meat" did you leave above the slot?

How far from the edges of the glass did you cut your holes for the bulkheads?

Now if only the woman would give me time to work on it...


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Old 02/11/2005, 08:41 AM   #116
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Can you set up a jig or rail guide to make a perfectly straight cut?
Will the bit still cut like this?


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Old 02/11/2005, 07:42 PM   #117
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greg if the "meat" ur talking about is the glass (LOL) i dint leave any i cut it up to the trim & took the glass out, this is an old AGA tank they dont make them like this anymore, the trim on it is very thick so that helps out,with the bulkheads what i did was i just center them & cut them, when i had my glass cut this was part of the plan so i made sure i would have at least 1.5 inch of glass from the bulk head to the end of the glass.
reefwaters im sure u can set up some kind of guide to get a perfect cut but if u take a look at the cut we made free hand i say u can do a good cut across its not that hard.




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Old 02/13/2005, 12:07 AM   #118
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Ok, after looking far and wide for glass, getting quotes ranging from $80 to over $100, the mom and pop hardware store around the corner from my house sold me a 2x3 sheet of 1/4" with all the cuts I needed for $30. I also picked up some emory cloth to clean up the edges, a tube of GE door and window silicone II, and a can of denatured alcohol. I got the holes for the bulkheads cut in the bottom piece with the tile bit, and I cleaned them up with the emory cloth. I painted the back of my 75 when I first got it, and I covered the paint with contact paper to protect it from scratches, so I'll have to peel and scrape all that off tomorrow. The dimensions I came up with made the overflow 15 1/2" wide, so I'm going to cut two slots in the tank 6" x 3/4" leaving a 2" space between them for structural reasons. This will leave 1/2" on the outer sides of the slots to the inner edges of the box., and should leave me with about an inch of glass above the slot as I'm not lucky enough to have an old AGA tank with thick trim. I took some pics with the cell phone, but I have to email them to myself one by one to get them on my PC. I'll post them once I do.


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Old 02/13/2005, 06:15 AM   #119
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cool it sound like u are good to go, post some pictures when u get a chance.



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Current Tank Info: 50 Breeder with 250w MH 10k XM bulb & 2 24inch VHO atinic 03,210 gallon Reef tank. 3 250 W MH,MRC CR-2 Reactor & MR-2 Skimmer,150 gallon sump,125 gallon refugium,75 Gallon Frag Tank & adding more water volume every t
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Old 04/19/2005, 06:33 PM   #120
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How many gph do you overflow? What do you think the maximum would be for yours? Is it necessary for the box to be so deep? I am thinking of doing this to a 75 but I am kind of unsure about it. I did cut an old 20 gallon with my Dremel and it was very easy.

Thanks,
Scott


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Old 04/19/2005, 06:43 PM   #121
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im getting around 1000 GPH with my overflow,u dont have to make the box deep i did it cuz i just wanted it that way
u might want to try the rotozip on ur 75 it's thicker glass so the roto bit will work better JME.


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Old 04/19/2005, 08:14 PM   #122
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Thanks, I am trying to use the stuff that I have and a Mag 12 will put out about that. I will check out the Rotozip.


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Old 04/19/2005, 09:23 PM   #123
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Hey, I almost forgot about this thread... Just an update on my tank... I built an awesome external box for the back of my 75. 2x1 1/2" dursos, the whole ball of wax. It's beautiful. Notch cutting went fine, as did the silicone work. Water test time, everything looked ok. I let it sit (outside) overnight, and when I came out in the morning, the tank was half empty and the back glass had cracked from the bottom corner up to the corner of my notch. After a few weeks of mental debate, I decided that I'm going to just trash the 75 and build my own tank the way I want it. I just ordered a bunch of 1/2" glass including starphire side panels from glasscages. I'm picking it up on Sunday. From what I learned siliconing the overflow box onto my 75, I'm more than confident that I can do a really nice job on this tank. It's going to be a 30x30x24 square, eurobraced, with a false back set 6" from the back glass (also 1/2" glass). I'll start a thread and post pics when I build it.


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Old 04/20/2005, 08:26 PM   #124
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Greg that sucks but im glad u dint give up.
keep the faith.



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Old 05/20/2005, 07:28 PM   #125
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Steve,

Did you use the tile cutting bit to make the openings in the acrylic?


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