My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[reefmutt]

I know people who dump their two part solutions by hand directly into the display. probaby not ideal but is isn't killing corals.
I think you are good with your system.
Your red dragon rtned like normal, you just happened to catch it in the act this time.
Is there growth on the acros that are doing ok?

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Is there growth on the acros that are doing ok?

My collection of Dead Corals is growing for sure

But this is one Example, the Original Bonsai that have been around for many weeks. Started a quick growth, and now looks like not much.



But look at the Acro Photo on Right. That one has had the best coloration, and it started Encrusting.

Now it has some burnt tips, and the Back Side looks pitted.

NEXT IS MY MONTI (Been around for over a year)



When I started this DT, it took off, showing white tip growth.
It's stop growing, and that is a clear indicator that things are slowing down.


I have been too afraid of Increasing Lighting. For good reasons.
But that is holding me back from getting to Proper Par Levels and growth.


BTW. Frag tank is young, but hasn't killed or hurt any SPS yet.

[Wally.B]

Is this PINK CADILAC Alive?

As I mentioned before the Pink Caddilac lost it's tips.
It no longer glows under an Actinic or UV Light.

But unlike ALL Other Corals that have bleached and died, it's hasn't gone white. It is all GREEN.

It is also not growing brown algae on is Skeleton.



It's sitting in my FRAG tank for now.

IS IT ALIVE?

[Wally.B]

SOME GOOD News (For a change). The Power Brown in Mixed Kittchen DT

So The Power Blue Tang is Amazing (great Looking) addition to the Kitchen Tank.

He is really gettting along with the 3 Blue Green Chromis Fish.

They get along with him..

….And now they Get Along with each Other. (Almost inseperable, especially near the feeding station).

The whole Tank Social Behaviour has changed. Wife and Kids like the change.

The Chromis’s actually don’t hang around in Caves, killing each other.

They swim around the whole tank, and are schooling again.



And due to Competition for Food, every Pellet Dropped in is eaten (before it hits the bottom)!!!!

Wish I could accomplish this in my SPS tank inhabitants. I would feed more and that would be great for the Corals.

[Wally.B]

FRAG TANK (Frag Reference) Aug 1st, 2017

So I got the Frag Tank setup with Sump, since I shut down the QT with Powder Brown Tang.

I trust the Frag Tank more than DT, and I'm feeding it OysterFeast Daily.
Brought up the Lights to close to 250 PARS.

Going Down South to "Turk and Caicos" in a week, and last year we enjoyed some Amazing Snorkeling at "Coral Gardens" which is out of this World.

We bought a I-Phone Sleeve case as seen below last year, and it was Useless.
For Some reason it would work pefect on Land, but wouldn't Focus under water.

This year I'm prepared, since I got this Case and Camera combo (used on Kijii) for dirt cheap.



Learning to use it and I just tested it on the FRAG TANK.
Put it under water and distance is far enough for the Cannon S95 to get a decent Photo.

This is much better than shooting thru Glass as seen in Center Photo.
Better than shooting top shot over water since no reflections.

I haven't even test the RAW shooting mode, it was just Auto Setting.



I have a reference point on my Frags to see how they do over time.

[LuizW13]

I can't believe i went through 10 pages of this! If only your luck with your corals was as good as your DIY skills

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by LuizW13

I can't believe i went through 10 pages of this! If only your luck with your corals was as good as your DIY skills

I hope it wasn't too painful.

It puzzles me why I have such SPS troubles.

But I may have a clue.
That little piece of Green Slimer that I placed in my Mixed Tank is looking Super.Bright Green, Showing Better PE than in my FRAG and DT (where there is a same Green Slimer Piece).

It shouldn't be doing well at all. Hi Nitrates, Hi Phosphates, Barely any circulation, and Low Lighting.

To soon for any conclusion yet.

[LuizW13]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

I hope it wasn't too painful.

It puzzles me why I have such SPS troubles.

But I may have a clue.
That little piece of Green Slimer that I placed in my Mixed Tank is looking Super.Bright Green, Showing Better PE than in my FRAG and DT (where there is a same Green Slimer Piece).

It shouldn't be doing well at all. Hi Nitrates, Hi Phosphates, Barely any circulation, and Low Lighting.

To soon for any conclusion yet.

I hope you figure it out! this is all a bit daunting to me now that I want SPS corals in my system.

[reefmutt]

Geez, Wally.. I gotta say non of those sps frags look particularly good..
And yes the pink Cadillac is dead.
Sometimes a type of green algea can colonize the skeleton below the flesh of the coral so when it does, the green skeleton is exposed. I've had it happen to me on a few occausions..

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Geez, Wally.. I gotta say non of those sps frags look particularly good..
And yes the pink Cadillac is dead.
Sometimes a type of green algea can colonize the skeleton below the flesh of the coral so when it does, the green skeleton is exposed. I've had it happen to me on a few occausions..

Yeah, I know.

So I'm going to do a bit more to help compare things.

I cut a few more pieces. A "Bird of Paradise", "Carolina", The "Green Slimer" and one more "Acro".

And put into the Mixed Kitchen Tank.



Not the best pictures, but good enough for future reference.

One Slimer isn't going to tell the story, but 4 SPS will certainly shed some light.

3 Environments, All same SPS.

[Wally.B]

All 3 Environments (Alk & Calc).

For now I measured the two most important Parameters.
The N & P I pretty well know that the Kitchen tank is pretty High. And Very Low in the two SPS tanks.

ALK (Frag Tank) = 7.7
ALK (SPS TANK) = 7.7
ALK (Kitchen TANK) = 8.0

CALC (Frag Tank) = 425
CALC (SPS Tank) = 420
CALC (Kitchen Tank) = 410

Not much of a difference. So the Kitchen Tank won't be a shock to the SPS on those two parameters.

[Wally.B]

One more Frag (Into Mixed Tank) for Ultimate Miracle Test

This will certainly be interested.

This Frag was already dying in my SPS DT.



It continued to bleach slowly in Frag Tank.

So before it's all gone, I split it and One Piece is in the Kitchen Mixed Tank.



If it survives in the Kitchen DT that will be a Miracle.

[reefmutt]

Death by a thousand cuts...
You are working with poor odds here..
Still, curious to see what happens.

[Wally.B]

I EXPECTED THIS (Frag Tank's) First Problem

The Frag tank is young, and it will take time to age/mature. (Assuming Coraline will eventually cover everything).

I did Shut down the QT and have it running a sump (with the Skimmer)

I also added a nice large Live Rock, covered in Coraline and Sponges underneath.

BUT with the Coral Feeding and Higher PARS it's showing first signs of ALGAE.

A thin film of brown is covering the racks and glass.

And some of the Plugs are showing Green Algae (hair like).



But this will be fairly easy to maintain/clean compared to the FRAG DT.

TIME TO PUT ON THE BLACK COVER on the Baffle Filter Box.

[Wally.B]

Some SPECIAL Automation (Vacation Auto Feeder with Apex Light Flasher Warning)


I'm doing this more for the Corals in the SPS tank (Too Keep Nutrient Levels up). Not so much for the Fish, which will be ok for 7 days.

I'm skipping the Neighbour to Feed the Fish while away next week (He would only come once anyway).

I setup my Ehiem Feeder before, but fish are so trained to come to feeding area (when I approach).

When using AutoFeeder, food get's wasted since they don't come right away. The new Powder Brown Tang is also learning the feeding area, so don't want to disrupt his GOOD PELLET EATTING HABIT.

So some Advanced Apex Programming will do the trick.

Basically using two APEX Virutual Outlets, I add two extra Statements to my Normal T5 (On/OFF) schedule program.

This Causes the T5 Light to Flash (on/off every 4 seconds) Just before the Feeder Feeds. (Flashes for 1 MINUTE)
The Feeder which is not Apex Controlled is programmed (to feed just after the T5 Flashes) (Or during Light Flashes).....Your Choice.

Over the next week the fish will be fed this way and trained.
Then during the vacation they will hopefully learn the Auto Feeder Routine (we me not present).

Here is how the programming works (NOTE: Virtual Outlets, must be put into AUTO mode).



**NOTE *** this type of programming ONLY Allows you to Flash (while T5 Light is OFF)
********** If you schedule the Flasher (this way) during T5 On Time the T5 Will not turn on
********** There is a another more advanced way to Flash the T5 during on time, but I forgot how I did it (Using Virtual Outlet Latches). It's possible, just more complex.


**NOTE *** Any shorter Duration than 5/4 seconds and Flash is Unreliable. This may vary if your Apex is busy doing many things

** NOTE IMPORTANT ** Never use Flashing for Metal Halide Lights. (Bad Idea to Bounce you MH Ballast).

********************************************
** ANOTHER COOL USE FOR (Feed Light) FLASHER **
********************************* You can use this Light Flashing, by adding it to the Apex Feed Button. (ie. When you Push Apex Feed, it can do whatever Feed does, and Flash Your light(s) too )

Both my tanks will run this way.

When I get back, I'll keep this setup and only feed Frozen Food Personally from then on.

One more step closer toward Total Automation

[Big E]

Hi Wally,

I may have missed exactly what the current status is so correct me on some of this if needed.

I agree with Matt, those frags are rough looking on post #230 Do you have a source you can get some healthy and vibrant frags to test regardless of which tank you put them in? If possible something you can see in person.

Starting out with shutdown frags is an uphill battle even in a thriving system.

If it was me I'd keep the LEDs off for now. Run the halides 6 hours and the T5 for 8 hours. Get the fixture down to a height where you're at 300-350 par at mid level in the tank. Early on you had the fixture way too high, but I think you know that now. You can work the LEDs back into the mix once the corals are doing good for a few months.

Use one brand of salt......just pick one you like. You can adjust alk, calc doses easily.

Dose just alk and calc no other combo additives. If you've used the standard ESV and had success on your other system I'd go with that.

No coral foods or trace elements.

The basic idea is to simplify things for now and limit variables until the tank can stabilize.

I’d suck out that last bit of sand in the display for maintenance and consistent purposes.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Big E

Hi Wally,

I may have missed exactly what the current status is so correct me on some of this if needed.

Ed, first and foremost, thanks for hopping over to my thread.
Between you and Reefmutt I have hope that this SPS Tank will be solved.

Originally Posted by Big E

I agree with Matt, those frags are rough looking on post #230 Do you have a source you can get some healthy and vibrant frags to test regardless of which tank you put them in? If possible something you can see in person.


Starting out with shutdown frags is an uphill battle even in a thriving system.

Yes, I did get a few Corals from a Distressed Tank and that may have lead me astray, since some of the Original Corals are doing fine.

I'll get a few new Reasonably Priced Frags in Excellent Visual Condition (Personally inspected before purchase).

Originally Posted by Big E

If it was me I'd keep the LEDs off for now. Run the halides 6 hours and the T5 for 8 hours. Get the fixture down to a height where you're at 300-350 par at mid level in the tank. Early on you had the fixture way too high, but I think you know that now. You can work the LEDs back into the mix once the corals are doing good for a few months.

After getting that PAR Meter, I clearly know what Height and Setting are good. (With Basic MH and T5).

I'll turn off the LED for now.

Will work slowly to get lighting to about 250Pars at Mid Level (Where most of the Frags Reside)
That will required me to Switch my Ballast from 150W, to (175W which I just did few days ago), and eventually to (250W).
MH (6 hours) and (T5 for 8 hours).

I expect a bit of Algae during this Lighting Increase, but with N & P so Low, it should be fine.
Greatest pain during Lighting increases (lowering lights) has been Sand Bed (which you address below...[ Get rid of it ])

Originally Posted by Big E

Use one brand of salt......just pick one you like. You can adjust alk, calc doses easily.

Simple change, and going forward with just Tropic Marin Pro (pricey, but I trust it, and I've lost more money on Frags than a bucket of quality salt..

Originally Posted by Big E

Dose just alk and calc no other combo additives. If you've used the standard ESV and had success on your other system I'd go with that.

Actually, I did a quick review of Thuis Thread (over time), and things were going well till I started Dosing AF (1,2,3). It's probably not the single reason, but you raise an interesting Point.

I will empty my Dosing Reservoir and fill it with ESV (Alk,Calc) which I have for my other Tank.

I have to be careful since ESV is much higher concentration that AF.

Originally Posted by Big E

No coral foods or trace elements.

Nothing has been added to DT after Reefmutt slapped my hands and sealed all my additives an Coral foods in the Vault.

Originally Posted by Big E

The basic idea is to simplify things for now and limit variables until the tank can stabilize.

I’d suck out that last bit of sand in the display for maintenance and consistent purposes.

Yes, I wanted to get rid of the Sand (Since Rocks are clean, but Sandbed isn't looking great), and your little push helps.
Will be done today.

Many thanks to Reefmutt and you Ed for your assistance.

Stay tuned, I'll post when I make the adjustments.

[Wally.B]

First Adjustment (Lighting)

Ed,

The SPS tank is in Basement (Sump Room, no windows), built into Wall and I view from my Office...., so when no TANK Lights ON it's Pitch Dark BLACK.

From your Recommendation (6 Hours MH and 8 Hours T5), I wasn't sure if (T5 Should be on during MH), or Doesn't matter.

To give me more viewing Time I staggered things this Way.

Everything adds up to the recommended times.



The MH lights are 2x 175W (for now)

One T5 is an ATI Coral Plus.
One T5 is an ATI Blue Plus.

THE POWER LED is turned off. I just have a Low Power Blue LED Strip for 1 hour before Closing time.

I assume this is good.

[Wally.B]

In the Process of Removing SANDBED



I off for two weeks starting today, and away down south next week.

Why not get this out of the way.

It's not too big of a job since all the Sand was blown onto the Left side of Tank.

More details to come after I'm done.

[Wally.B]

Sand Bed Remove (Tank Circulation Refined)

It was pretty easy to remove the Sand Bed.

- Just had to remove 5-6 Medium/Large Rocks on Left Side.

- Used BrineShrimp Net to Scoop most of it up.
- Followed by a Siphon Fine Cleaning.

Glad I had the Frag Tank since it was ideal to hold the Corals and Coral Rocks.

The Baserocks went into couple of bucket.



I was surprised to see how clean and nice the Rocks and to some degree the Corals looked in the Shallow Frag Tank. They never look like this in DT.


I had these Two Hydor Koralia Pump in the corner to keep good circulation for the Sand Bed. (Didn't work too well). (I removed them)

With no more Sand Bed (I can Crank Up the Circulation), so I installed the CP-40 opposite the MaxSpect XF150.

-> The MaxSpect XF150 is Controlled by Apex and IceCap Module.
-> The Jecod CP-40 will be controlled by the WiFI Module (for now it's running on the Basic Controller)



They will alternate and also Crash Into Each other for a Random Circulation. Much better than a Single Gyre Pump at one end as in the past.

The reason the sandbed was on the Left Side was due to only 1 Powerful Gyre.
Two will be circulation in both directions, and when both running more down the middle.



Surface view show the good Surface Circulation with both on.


THE TANK IS CLEARING UP and I'll post a Photo of the New Look one it clears.

(Only change is left side, and I decided to mount all the remaining Good SPS Frags (Struggling ones are in FRAG tank to either Heal or live their last bit of life))

[Wally.B]

SPS Tank (With No SandBed) NEW LOOK

Still will take a while to clear up, but here is the No Sand Bed Look.

BEFORE (With Sand Bed) Month Ago (while Frags were OK)



NOW (NO Sand Bed) (Dual Gyre Pumps)



I kind of like the way it looked before, but good enough for this next Journey (Keeping Frags Healthy and Alive)..

Happy I moved the Some Rocks away from the Glass since I couldn't clean with Magnet all around. Hated that!! (Thus why things are bit more compact).

(It's hard to tell in Photo, but I did make all Rocks Open Spaced, for Flow Thru, and Cave for fish to Have Shelter with Stronger Circulation)

One rock was flipped so the Corals at back are now visible in the Front. (That I like).

And last but not least......I do miss the sand bed look a bit... (When it was Sparkling White),
but it wasn't white all around (Icky Brown Spots, so Look forward to overall Tank Clean Look and Water Clarity.

[reefmutt]

Nice new flow situation.
Once some corraline grows on the floor, it won't look so bare.
You could also put some encrusting montis or favia type corals on the bottom..
Careful with the montis, though.. they can take over...
Good start. It's a waiting game, now. Not the easy part, I know!
This should be months, not weeks..

[Big E]

Ed,

The SPS tank is in Basement (Sump Room, no windows), built into Wall and I view from my Office...., so when no TANK Lights ON it's Pitch Dark BLACK.

From your Recommendation (6 Hours MH and 8 Hours T5), I wasn't sure if (T5 Should be on during MH), or Doesn't matter.

To give me more viewing Time I staggered things this Way.

Everything adds up to the recommended times.



The MH lights are 2x 175W (for now)

One T5 is an ATI Coral Plus.
One T5 is an ATI Blue Plus.

THE POWER LED is turned off. I just have a Low Power Blue LED Strip for 1 hour before Closing time.

I assume this is good.

I would run the T5s 8-9 hours and sandwich the 6 hours of MH in the middle. So an hour or so on each end of the MH. You can work up the total hours if you choose later on.

From the one picture it looks like you don't have reflectors on the T5s? If not, get some..........they snap right onto the bulbs. Without reflectors your bulbs are very inefficient. This also allows you to angle them slightly if you chose to direct the light towards the center more.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Big E

I would run the T5s 8-9 hours and sandwich the 6 hours of MH in the middle. So an hour or so on each end of the MH. You can work up the total hours if you choose later on.

From the one picture it looks like you don't have reflectors on the T5s? If not, get some..........they snap right onto the bulbs. Without reflectors your bulbs are very inefficient. This also allows you to angle them slightly if you chose to direct the light towards the center more.

I will do as you say with Sandwiched T5 Timing (So Total Main Lighting (T5 staggered 1 hour) is 9 hours, 2pm-11pm, but MH 6 remains Hours).
My Low Power Blue Led Strip can handle 9am-2pm, and 11pm-midnight.

The T5's Do have High Quality Reflectors. Snap On.

[Wally.B]

The Green Slimmer in SPS DT.

I did more the Green Slimer from Frag Tank to the New Sandless DT.

Looks a bit more happier since showing signs of PE.