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08/30/2007, 11:07 AM | #101 | |
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Quote:
L X W X H 48 1/4" X 18 1/4" X 21 3/4" Hope that helps.
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In between tanks |
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08/30/2007, 09:41 PM | #102 | |
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Hi Siffy, thanks for answering !!!
Quote:
Look at this picture, forget the stand because it has changed since this thread started but you will have a look at the tanks distribution. The aquaria will be 45x45x40 cm (LxWxH), something close to 20 gallons. So, each stand (there will be 2 side by side) will have 3 levels of 20g tanks (3 per level = 60g per level) and sump on the floor. What do you think ? Thanks again for the time and patience. Anderson.
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08/30/2007, 11:49 PM | #103 |
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very helpful, thanks guys
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08/31/2007, 10:45 AM | #104 |
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Does anyone think it would be crazy to build one of these stands 40" tall for a 90 gallon tank w/ dimensions 48.5"x18.5"x24? I am trying to convince myself that its not going to tip. I won't be securing to the floor or the wall. Bending over continuously to view my tank just doesn't sit well with me, but I dont want the thing to fall over either.
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08/31/2007, 10:52 AM | #105 | |
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Quote:
I say go for it.
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In between tanks |
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08/31/2007, 05:01 PM | #106 |
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The stand I built for my upgrade to a 150, pictured earlier in this thread, is 40" tall. I' haven't given a second thought to it tipping over, I was more concerned about not having a center brace, which I've just put out of my head for now
Dave
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Dave Current Tank Info: 150 gallon FOWLR -- 29 Gal Misc |
08/31/2007, 09:50 PM | #107 |
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is attatching the top and bottom frames with lag bolts a good idea? I just did that for my buddys tank with all 2x4's. we also did 2 cross beams across both the top and bottom frames instead of 1.
2x4 supports will be added between the top and bottom frames in the front center and back center. this stand is for a 150 gallon tank. Do you guys think i will need any extra supports after this? or should i skip the legs we are planning on putting in the center and make larger corner legs with more 2x4's like the purple wood in the original picture? |
08/31/2007, 11:22 PM | #108 |
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I have nearly the exact same design for my 120 that has been up and running well for over the last three years. All I did was slap some skin on.
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09/02/2007, 03:29 PM | #109 |
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Do you guys build the stand to exact dimensions as the tank? Example: Tank is 24"x24" outside dimensions do you build the stand 25"x25" to center the tank on the supports a little more?
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09/02/2007, 04:18 PM | #110 |
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I built mine to exact so that all of the wegith would be cetnered on the outside wood and after placing the tank on the frame, I marked and put my center brace. Ironically, if I would have just centered the cetner brace, it would not have lined up with the cetner support on the tank. There was about an inch differrence.
I will post pictures tonight as I am doing a test of it now with the water running through it.
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In between tanks |
09/02/2007, 09:04 PM | #111 |
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built my stand with the help of rockets design. check it out...
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1198787
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Leo Click on my red house to see my 90g RR tank :) Tons of pictures, tons... Click!!! Current Tank Info: 90g AGA Reef Ready, 6x54w T5s w/ SLRs, 29g Sump/fuge, OR 2500 Return, Octopus NW150, 2 x TLF Phosban Reactor, Koralia #1, #4, MJ Modded |
09/03/2007, 03:53 PM | #112 |
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will I be the 5th or 6th to ask this. I building a stand for a 240 (72x30x25) are you sure I can do it without center braces? I love the idea... great access... but a little scary baby... even using 2x8..
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09/03/2007, 04:49 PM | #113 |
Mr lucky
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tipp City OH
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on my current 240 i uesd all 2x6 and i used center braces. im pretty sure you could park a simi truck on there but i have nothing going under the stand. All my equpment is in another room
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09/04/2007, 02:43 PM | #114 |
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http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...25IMG_8216.jpg
Hey Laud, what size thank is this for. I noticed in this photo that the frame looks like 2x4 then it looks like 2x6 later. did you change or put the 2x6 over the top..? |
09/21/2007, 09:30 AM | #115 | |
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Quote:
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09/29/2007, 06:56 AM | #116 |
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Here is the latest update with the sump on top and timers and switches on side door.
the stand switches inside side door |
10/02/2007, 09:02 PM | #117 |
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sent you a pm.
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"Remember remember the fifth of November, the gun powder treason and plot, I know of no reason why the gun powder treason should ever be forgot" -Guy Fox Current Tank Info: 120 reef 4VHO,90 reef 2x250mh 4 vho, 55reef 150HQI, 37 reef PC, 20 QT, 47 Fresh |
10/02/2007, 10:41 PM | #118 |
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Awesome thread...Thanks to everyone for the great ideas and exact specs. Anyone have canopy specs for a 75?
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10/03/2007, 12:35 AM | #119 |
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heres the final on my stand...kept it simple with a flush door and bull nosed corners...I love it!!!
my nephew is holding the hood over the tank as it will be more of a pendant and hang from the cieling so I can show off those polished edges...
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The power of moonlight Current Tank Info: 90g rimless tank in the makes and a 15g nano Last edited by Misled; 03/27/2018 at 06:45 PM. |
10/03/2007, 12:57 AM | #120 |
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Location: ardmore oklahoma
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i used 4x4's for the stand on my 55 and when done properly (completely sealing the wood fram after building and before sheeting/or covering it with ply) there is lkittle to no chance of twisting. if moisture cannot get in to the wood there is a lot less chance of twisting and warping. also as a rule of thumb i seal the plywood (or whatever i use to skin the outside) i also pre drill holes for screws and use clear silicone in the holes and around the screws to help keep the screws from rusting. even the coated screws you buy rust, i use to remodel mobile homes and after seeing some of the high dollar "rust proof", rust resistant" screws being coated after just 2 months i started doing this and got much better results. if you are going to take the time to build a nice looking stand go the extra mile and make it last, also should you decide to sell it later you will have peice of mind and you can let the buyer know the care taken to make sure the stand would last and be of the highest quality. i have seen store bought stands and i will NEVER buy one, i will make all of my stands if i buy a tank with a stand i get the dimensions from it and start building most i will use is hardware and cabinet doors just my .02
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10/03/2007, 05:14 AM | #121 |
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What do you all do to waterproof the stand, do you just do it to the inside? I'm looking at staining and clear coating the front but I'm not sure if I should do more to seal it, or what is the best way to seal the inside, weither to use wood deck waterproofing stuff or kilz or something else.
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"Remember remember the fifth of November, the gun powder treason and plot, I know of no reason why the gun powder treason should ever be forgot" -Guy Fox Current Tank Info: 120 reef 4VHO,90 reef 2x250mh 4 vho, 55reef 150HQI, 37 reef PC, 20 QT, 47 Fresh |
10/03/2007, 10:30 AM | #122 |
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Ok here we go got some pictures of the stand, I recently ordered this tank, and the stand was a good price from the same people so I ordered it too, and later I found why its a good price, it has, as far as I currently see it, insufficient supports. Here are the details and some pictures
The tank is a glass tank, weighs around 1200 lbs can't be much more 6 guys lifted it but it wasn't fun. Dimensions are 96x36x24 LWH The Stand is 96x36x36 with a 35x35 inside height and width, I haven't measure the inside length but I imagine its something like 95 based on how the height and width came out. The oak ply skin on it is 3/4 inch thick so its not exactly thin stuff. The little wooden boards you will see everywhere are 2 1/4 inch wide and 3/4 inch thick, not 2x4s or 2x8s as I would prefer, but then that might be overkill if they were all replaced that way, they are secured to the 3/4inch oakply with what look to be penny nails or carpenter/furniture nails, you know the thin ones, and appear to be held there with quite a handful of them, about 1 every 1inch or so down the board, I don't see any glue but that doesn't mean they aren't glued there as well, I'll attempt to contact the builder and ask today. I plan on running a wavebox, well 2, on this tank so I also need to prevent swaying as well, so I probably need to add additional supports for that as well or connect all the braces I'll be putting in both to each other and to the oak ply skin. Ok time for the pictures Better shot of one of the 2 2x4s and the only 2x8, it could be a 2x6 I didn't measure come to think of it. here is a picture of the other 2x4, pretty sure its a 2x6 now, and how they are placed together, I'm not seeing the screws/nails or glue on how they are connected to the ply or each other but there is some molding on the front that could be blocking me from seeing that, but they weren't moving when I was pulling Outside of the stand, with my sump on top of the stand, yes I'm using a brand spanking new 125 long as my sump A shot of my pretty 375g tank Here is a long shot of the tank, 2 corner overflows both with 2x 1.5 inch drains And the real perspective shot, my 125g sump, the same size as my largest running tank different dimensions, sitting on the stand
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"Remember remember the fifth of November, the gun powder treason and plot, I know of no reason why the gun powder treason should ever be forgot" -Guy Fox Current Tank Info: 120 reef 4VHO,90 reef 2x250mh 4 vho, 55reef 150HQI, 37 reef PC, 20 QT, 47 Fresh |
10/03/2007, 02:50 PM | #123 |
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Going to be building a stand for a 72 bowfront and was wondering a couple of different things. I bought all the 2x4's and am going to be cutting things now. All I Want to know is do you glue the butt joints together for the top and bottom frames? Are screws enough to hold them together? Or would you suggest adding some L brackets in each of the corners as well for some more support? Or would you suggest something all together different?
Eric |
10/04/2007, 06:58 AM | #124 |
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jsl6v8,
I can understand why the stand makes you nervous. With the strongest support in the middle, I would be worried also. Personally, I would copy what was done in the middle support to both ends and run stringers between the ends and the middle to make a box frame all the way around. Make sure the legs to through the bottom plywood to the floor. Between the plywood and the supports, everything should stay in place for years to come. ebrabender, For a bowfront, are you making the stand square or curved? If you're making it square, how do you support the curve of the tank properly? In the corners, the screw strips act to hold everything together while the weight is transfered straight through the legs. If you screw from both sides of the corner into the screw trip, I don't see anything needing additional support. Facing with plywood will help immensley to keep things square.
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-RocketEngineer "Knowledge is what you get when you read the directions, experience is what you get when you don't." - Unknown Current Tank Info: None Currently |
10/04/2007, 09:21 AM | #125 |
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I was given lots of tanks for free and they are not the size I planned so I changed the stand project so I could use them.
The tanks are now 60x30x40 cm (close to 24x12x16") - 72 liters (~19 gallons). Each level would hold 4 of these tanks and I was thinking on using 2x4 on everything. Here is the new sketch with the measures, Front: Kind of a side view Questions: 1 - Can 2x4 as "top rails" and "ends" hold that weight (288 liters = 76 gallons) with only corner uprights ? I´ve increased the load but the rails are shorter... 2 - Can 2x4 be used as all the corner uprigths (even the bottom ones) ? I was thiking the bottom ones would be on more pressure and, maybe, should be 2x6. 3 - What kind of wood is recommended for a stand like this ? Thanks! Anderson.
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