ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

[Keith@ ATI NA]

Originally Posted by Matt Dean

Hi Keith

I had a Tek Elite 8-54W bulb fixture. Certainly this fixture is considerably better.

PROBLEM! I have to put the outside LEDs at 30% and the middle LED at 50% to have it even. The outside LEDs seem way more powerful than the middle cluster. The result is having low PAR in the Middle top sections where the SPS is and the same PAr readings at the bottom on the sides where I have the LPS. Obviously i want low PAR on the bottom and high on the top but it seems almost the opposite.

Note: I have a peninsula tank and all the rock is in the middle.

As for a change in light, I just restarted the tank so all corals only had a week or two with the old light so not too worried about the change except for possibly being too strong.

Please email us to create a support ticket if you believe there is a defect in the fixture. I have not heard of having variable outputs on different clusters but since it is a new generation fixture I don't have as much experience with it.

[Matt Dean]

Will do thanks

[Matt Dean]

OK. It looks like the outside 4 T5s were bouncing off the glass and creating hotspots. When I used the inside 4 T5s instead, the PAR readings were 'normal'. Lower on the bottom and higher on the top. I gotta say, this ATI light puts out a LOT of light. Way more than the TEK Elite fixture did.

So, good to know the LEDs on the ATi are solid. Cheers

[Punchanello]

Hi ATI.

Would it be an issue if I mounted my control unit flush rather than on the raised bracket? I have a very slim space to mount controllers etc. Is it raised to dry to reduce the chance of water dripping down a surface on to it or is it to do with heat ventilation?

Thanks!

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[Orcus Varuna]

I finally have my 24” Powermodule WiFi set up and Im really digging it. I decided on 2 Blue Plus, 1 Coral Plus, and 1 Purple Plus and the LED’s are on Best Power @ 60%. The look of the tank (color and shimmer) is almost spot on to how my tanks used to look under radium halides. So I couldn’t be happier. Now I just need to find some patience as the tank is only on week 4 if it’s cycle...



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[pommie]

I have an old 8 x T5 Hybrid with three LED clusters and the LEDs are flickering like crazy. I understand this is a design flaw and there is no warranty but is there any way to turn the LEDS of completely and just run the T5 bulbs?

I will take it apart and cut wires if somebody can instruct me.

Thanks

[theshaman]

Originally Posted by pommie

I have an old 8 x T5 Hybrid with three LED clusters and the LEDs are flickering like crazy. I understand this is a design flaw and there is no warranty but is there any way to turn the LEDS of completely and just run the T5 bulbs?



I will take it apart and cut wires if somebody can instruct me.



Thanks

Hook it up your PC, open up light studio and set all the led set points to off.


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[Keith@ ATI NA]

Originally Posted by pommie

I have an old 8 x T5 Hybrid with three LED clusters and the LEDs are flickering like crazy. I understand this is a design flaw and there is no warranty but is there any way to turn the LEDS of completely and just run the T5 bulbs?

I will take it apart and cut wires if somebody can instruct me.

Thanks

I don't know what design flaw you speak of, but its likely a problem with your control box. If the temperature shown doesn't make sense its likely not communicating properly with the light.

To disable them, I would recommend either removing the LED Cluster, or the KSQ. You can find videos on both of these items on our ATI North America YouTube channel.

[Joe0813]

looking at a 60 inch 8 bulb for our 72 inch tank... how do you guys like these? seems like I cant make up my mind on which direction to go for new lighting. Im coming from three radion gen twos. So far I have looked into radion gen 4 pros, keep the gen twos and buy that aquatic life t5 hybrid that you can mount your radions into oooor the 60 inch ATI powermodule hybrid

[pommie]

Originally Posted by Keith@ ATI NA

I don't know what design flaw you speak of, but its likely a problem with your control box. If the temperature shown doesn't make sense its likely not communicating properly with the light.

To disable them, I would recommend either removing the LED Cluster, or the KSQ. You can find videos on both of these items on our ATI North America YouTube channel.

Thanks Keith, I know in Australia there was a bigissue with the LED lights flickering on earlier model Hybrids. If there is a fix for this issue then id rather try and apply it than remove them altogether.

Thanks though.

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Joe0813

looking at a 60 inch 8 bulb for our 72 inch tank... how do you guys like these? seems like I cant make up my mind on which direction to go for new lighting. Im coming from three radion gen twos. So far I have looked into radion gen 4 pros, keep the gen twos and buy that aquatic life t5 hybrid that you can mount your radions into oooor the 60 inch ATI powermodule hybrid

Output is very similar to my previous Hydra HD with t5 supplements setup but this is in one sleek fixture. My last setup was a rats nest of wires which I’m happy to be rid of.


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[AquaManiak]

I've been running my 6x54w fixture for a while now, while it looks great it is a bit too much for several of my corals (trachyphilia, one species of zoanthid, montipora and stylophora are clearly not liking it and show bleaching). I've started pretty conservative running the LED's at only 35% and only 5 hours max T5, but I've been forced to dim the T5 to 60% before completing break-in because it was just too much. Raising the fixture more might help but it's already at max height.

Are there more people experiencing this? Would love to see other lighting programs.

[Keith@ ATI NA]

Originally Posted by AquaManiak

I've been running my 6x54w fixture for a while now, while it looks great it is a bit too much for several of my corals (trachyphilia, one species of zoanthid, montipora and stylophora are clearly not liking it and show bleaching). I've started pretty conservative running the LED's at only 35% and only 5 hours max T5, but I've been forced to dim the T5 to 60% before completing break-in because it was just too much. Raising the fixture more might help but it's already at max height.

Are there more people experiencing this? Would love to see other lighting programs.

I want to highly discourage you from dimming prior to completing the burn in period. You will ruin the bulbs which will result in premature failure and spectrum shift. No matter what the reason, its a terrible idea to ignore this requirement.

I suggest you try some layers of window screen or some other "cover" if you are unable to raise the light higher.

Another option is to simply remove the light from your tank for 48 hours while burning in the bulbs (run them 48hrs straight) then return the light to your tank. Your corals would likely rather go 2 days without light (which is like a storm in nature stirring up sand) vs getting cooked.

[Radioheadx14]

Question, local reefer selling a 60" hybrid from 2015, guessing first model. Are there issyes with these units I should look for before buying or do they hold up pretty well? Price is really good, so I'm almost ready yo pull the trigger but want to make sure i do my homework.

[Keith@ ATI NA]

Originally Posted by Radioheadx14

Question, local reefer selling a 60" hybrid from 2015, guessing first model. Are there issyes with these units I should look for before buying or do they hold up pretty well? Price is really good, so I'm almost ready yo pull the trigger but want to make sure i do my homework.

I'd say go for it, there really aren't any big known issues. Just like anything parts can fail on it but we have them available. Only thing I can think of that is a repeat offender is the very very first round had plastic reflectors for the LEDs not aluminum. These tended to turn brown or even melt. Ask the seller for photos of the LED clusters and you should be able to tell. Even if they are old replacement aluminum reflectors are available for $62.95ea so take that into consideration with your total purchase price. Make sure you get the USB cable too, these are very specific and frankly, expensive for what they are. It is not a best buy item you need to purchase it from us. The USB cable for the original is $25.95.

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Keith@ ATI NA

I want to highly discourage you from dimming prior to completing the burn in period. You will ruin the bulbs which will result in premature failure and spectrum shift. No matter what the reason, its a terrible idea to ignore this requirement.



I suggest you try some layers of window screen or some other "cover" if you are unable to raise the light higher.



Another option is to simply remove the light from your tank for 48 hours while burning in the bulbs (run them 48hrs straight) then return the light to your tank. Your corals would likely rather go 2 days without light (which is like a storm in nature stirring up sand) vs getting cooked.

Coming from the world of non dimmable fixtures I didn’t realize you had to burn the lamps in prior to dimming. Have I trashed my brand new bulbs if they were programmed to dim on and off from new? Or should I just look to replace them at 6ish months instead of 12-18? Thanks Keith


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[mike810]

Is there any issues with using a new bulb for say 100 hours, taking it off the fixture and storing it until you're ready to use again? Does this mess up the bulbs life span or spectrum?

[Keith@ ATI NA]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

Coming from the world of non dimmable fixtures I didn’t realize you had to burn the lamps in prior to dimming. Have I trashed my brand new bulbs if they were programmed to dim on and off from new? Or should I just look to replace them at 6ish months instead of 12-18? Thanks Keith


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What schedule were you running when they were brand new? This plays a major role in how much damage was done.

For example:
Ramping from 20-50% then back down again
vs
Ramping for 1 hour up to 100%, then back down again.

The longer the period of time at a low intensity when its new the more damage.

If you just ramped them up to 100% but they stayed at 100% for a good part of the day I would just use them until they burn out early, or in the 6-9 month timeline like you mentioned.

If you ran them at 50% (as in my example) I would probably replace them within a few months from now, but they will likely quit working well before 9 months.

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Keith@ ATI NA

What schedule were you running when they were brand new? This plays a major role in how much damage was done.



For example:

Ramping from 20-50% then back down again

vs

Ramping for 1 hour up to 100%, then back down again.



The longer the period of time at a low intensity when its new the more damage.



If you just ramped them up to 100% but they stayed at 100% for a good part of the day I would just use them until they burn out early, or in the 6-9 month timeline like you mentioned.



If you ran them at 50% (as in my example) I would probably replace them within a few months from now, but they will likely quit working well before 9 months.

Thank you for the information Keith. They have been set on a 1hr ramp from 30-100% then 5hrs at 100% followed by a ramp down to 30%. I’ll look to replace them at the good old Black Friday sale this year. Always learn something new in this hobby no matter how long you’ve been at it.



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[Keith@ ATI NA]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

Thank you for the information Keith. They have been set on a 1hr ramp from 30-100% then 5hrs at 100% followed by a ramp down to 30%. I’ll look to replace them at the good old Black Friday sale this year. Always learn something new in this hobby no matter how long you’ve been at it.



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Well this is about as good of a scenario as you could have when doing it wrong. While I would certainly replace them early it is not anything like someone only running them at 50%.

[mike810]

Originally Posted by Keith@ ATI NA

Well this is about as good of a scenario as you could have when doing it wrong. While I would certainly replace them early it is not anything like someone only running them at 50%.

Hi Keith,

Can you answer the question to my previous post?

Is there any issues with using a new bulb for say 100 hours, taking it off the fixture and storing it until you're ready to use again? Does this mess up the bulbs life span or spectrum?

[Keith@ ATI NA]

Originally Posted by mike810

Hi Keith,

Can you answer the question to my previous post?

Is there any issues with using a new bulb for say 100 hours, taking it off the fixture and storing it until you're ready to use again? Does this mess up the bulbs life span or spectrum?

No issues doing that at all. If you have a dimmable fixture its a great idea to burn in all of your bulbs ahead of time, then you can swap in 1 bulb every other month or something similar so it is more consistent light all year round.

[mike810]

Originally Posted by Keith@ ATI NA

No issues doing that at all. If you have a dimmable fixture its a great idea to burn in all of your bulbs ahead of time, then you can swap in 1 bulb every other month or something similar so it is more consistent light all year round.

Thanks Keith! Appreciate the information.

[Joe0813]

ordering mine this week. a 60 inch for our 72 inch tank

[Alberth707]

Any body sell Ati 60” Hybrid 8bulbs ???


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