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Unread 04/11/2006, 09:29 PM   #26
jimsflies
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No, I am using aluminum window frame material. It seems to be working great. No sign of corrosion.

Still have more mesh available in the selling forum.


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Unread 04/12/2006, 09:14 PM   #27
beaniebeagle
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That mesh looks like the same stuff you can get at Home Depot or Lowes--->bird netting (but its black)


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Unread 04/12/2006, 09:52 PM   #28
jimsflies
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Yeah, its similar but this stuff is clear. More light passes through it. I looked into a lot of different options before coming up with this one.


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Unread 04/13/2006, 11:00 AM   #29
Zoa
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so where did you get it?


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Unread 04/13/2006, 11:27 AM   #30
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Here is a site that seems to have very similar items: http://www.usnetting.com/ Minimum purchases do suck unless you need a bunch of it. This looks good too: http://www.internetmesh.net/plastic_poly.htm ~Matt


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Unread 04/13/2006, 12:23 PM   #31
nataz
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I have a question? I have always used glass tops on my tanks,but with a screen wouldnt u cause more water to evaporate?


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Unread 04/13/2006, 02:00 PM   #32
Zoa
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thanks mcegelsk.....I like what the guy did with the mesh...I am a bit leery about metal near the tank....I use the eggcrate over my eel tank so he doesn't go surfing. but the windo idea does look good too. For ease sake--I guess if I were to buy or do that--I wpuld want it in pieces to better access my tank.

nataz--yes there is more evaporation -- but it allows heat to escape so the water does not get too hot.

how many of you guys/gals cover your reef at all?


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Unread 04/13/2006, 10:58 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by jimsflies

[/B]
Wow! Amazing Tank!


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Unread 04/14/2006, 09:44 AM   #34
RichConley
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Quote:
Originally posted by BeanAnimal
Yes one side of the eggcrate is "thick" and the other "thin". If you look at metal diffusers the same is true. Very little information is available about these things... some people asy that the "wedge" shaped grid runners are top help it pop out of the injection mold. However, a study of high tech light panels will show that it is a design parameter.

From my understanding FAT side towards the light causes the light reflected off the water to be bounced back off of the grid, while still allowing light to penetrate from above, as well as guiding the shallow angled light. THIN towards the light causes a more of the light to be lost and less to be reflected back to the water from underneath. If anybody has any hard studies or data on this it would be great. We may want to move it to another thread in fairness to the OP.

Bean
I tried eggcrate at one point. I lost a TON of light. A TON. Like easily 30-40%. I tried both sides, and it was similar. One may be better than the other, but both are bad.

The above is a much better idea.


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Unread 04/18/2006, 07:29 PM   #35
jimsflies
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Rich is right, I also lost a lot of light with a single halide using eggcrate.


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Unread 04/18/2006, 08:19 PM   #36
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You could build a frame of plastic pipe or angle, and rip a groove in it with the tablesaw so you could still mount the mesh with the window screen beading.


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Unread 04/18/2006, 09:56 PM   #37
Zoa
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plastic--that would be good. who is gonna give that a shot?


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Unread 07/08/2006, 07:30 AM   #38
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Wow looks great. But what if you have stuff on the back of the tank like a remora hob skimmer or hob refugium or even overflow box. Is it necessary to have it framed, i guess so inorder for it to stay in place?


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Unread 07/08/2006, 08:20 AM   #39
jimsflies
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Quote:
Wow looks great. But what if you have stuff on the back of the tank like a remora hob skimmer or hob refugium or even overflow box. Is it necessary to have it framed, i guess so inorder for it to stay in place?
I have given this some thought. If I had stuff on the back, I would take a piece of acrylic or plexiglass as wide as necessary to make it around the items in the back. Then along the back edge, I would cut very accurate cut-out notches for the items that have to go through the top.

Then, I would make the frame just as I have above. The narrow piece along the back shouldn't protrude out far enough to make the frame interfer with lighting or cause shadows.

I also like the idea of making an entire top out of a single piece of acrylic and routering a grove to allow the spline material to fit and hold the mesh. Then you would leave the area along the back wider so you could make the same cut-out notches from above. But this would require quite a bit more skill and tools to make look nice.


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Unread 07/08/2006, 01:34 PM   #40
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It would also most likely end up warping as acrylic tends to do. You would have to end up clamping/bolting the acrylic flange down to something anyways...in which case its a PITA. I think a frame out of aluminum channel would be better... you know, regular aluminum window-screen frame? It already has the spline channel in it, just put the corners on (they sell it as a kit at HD), and then attach a strip of that all-glass style versa-hood plastic channel that is used for the exact thing we are talking about here...cut it out to fit the pipes/cords, and put it on top. Total cost would be less than $20 I bet.


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Unread 07/08/2006, 03:07 PM   #41
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UUUUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMMMM Isn't that exactly what Jim did??????????????????????????


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Unread 07/08/2006, 04:09 PM   #42
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Good stuff you found there! It reminded me of an idea I got last year but never tried. Build an acrylic frame, let's say 1/2" wide, out of a single piece (or gluing 4 sticks) and drill small holes all around the perimeter at every 1/2", or smaller if you prefer. Then use a fish line (ironic) to make a grid pattern, as a tennis racquet.

I don't know if your halide light would melt the line tough! It should be fine with my fluo, pretty sure. Different fish line diameter could be tested. It's clear so should not block too much light.

For once, a fish line would be used to save a fish's life!


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Unread 07/08/2006, 08:27 PM   #43
jimsflies
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The aluminum frame is working good for me. The acrylic idea would only be necessary if you had things hanging in your tank or had an odd shape like a bow front. The acrylic shouldn't melt though because it would only be along the edges...unless you have halides right over the edge of your tank, then I suppose it could.

This mesh is way easier than fishing line. You don't even notice its there...light goes right through it.


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Unread 07/08/2006, 09:47 PM   #44
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Would bird netting works the same? It's black but there's other similar product used for pond to prevent leaves from falling into pond- it has slightly larger mesh and thinner line. The pond mesh is about $20 for 8' x 8'


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Unread 07/09/2006, 05:44 AM   #45
jimsflies
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It might. But if the openings are larger, the fish will get through.


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Unread 07/09/2006, 08:09 AM   #46
MJAnderson
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Yea, I've been trying to figure out how to do this with my bowfront. Acrylic is a nice idea. Was contemplating doing it out of wood...


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Unread 07/13/2006, 02:38 PM   #47
diverdan814
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jimsflies,
You have inspired me to make these tops for my tanks. Went out to HD and got all the stuff I need. One question: What tool did you utilize to cut the aluminum frame?
Thanks- Rich


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Unread 07/13/2006, 08:23 PM   #48
jimsflies
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Just a miter saw or hack saw will work to cut the frames. You cut them straight and then insert the plastic 90-degree corners in the ends.


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Unread 07/13/2006, 08:56 PM   #49
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I guess you could use the netting that the xmas tree guys sell for 1.00 during Xmas up here in the north, if you can wait that long. It is not as uniform, but should do the trick.

rich


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Unread 07/13/2006, 10:08 PM   #50
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Great Idea. I think it is the most perfect solution I have heard of. Especially if you are depending on evaporation for cooling. And as I do. I like the ripple effect a fan generates on the surface better than any powerhead I have tried. Plus you don't have to look at the power head in the tank. This would allow me to continue my cooling/ripple generation and let me buy a wrasse or a goby. Kudos to you.


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