Brian's 270 Starphire

[Dejavu]

Originally posted by Ed Reef
Looks like a solid frame Brian

Thanks Ed. I hope to have most of the frame done this weekend.... I hope.

Originally posted by mpoletti
Brian, I'd suggest for you to fill the bottom of your stand a bit. Maybe even put the 2x4 sideways. It may not matter for you as I do not know your foundation, but since I have raised hardwood floors, I get an small scho from the vibration of the pumps.

Mark, I do plan on adding half inch plywood to the bottom of the frame. The floor is tile on concrete. Not sure if its the wood that make the pump echo more or not.

I have thought of lineing the bottom of the stand with Styrofoam sheets. I have done this in the pass, any thoughts.

[Dejavu]

Originally posted by juniormc8704
Ive used saddle valves for years with no problem.

However, something that is VERY important, and will prevent most, if not all issues, its proper installation.

Never mount a saddle pointing down. This will allow any sediment in the bottom of the pipes (i.e. copper) to make their way into your filter, and even clog the valve.

Always mount parallel with the pipe. It should look like a "T" from below. This will prevent any contaminants from clogging your valve.

You will need to seal that one up and get a new one though, obviously.

Thanks for the advice Jr. I have had my last RO/DI hooked up the same way at my old house for years with out a problem. For some reason I'm not getting the same pressure as I did be for.

I think I'll do what Joe suggested and Solder in a T fitting instead and reduce down to your 1/4"line. I have to add a wash sink in that room anyways and I planned on putting in the same area as the saddle is now.

I can just cut out where the hole is for the saddle and put my Tee in there for the wash sink. It a few weeks out until I can get my plumber friend out so I'll have to make do until then.

[Dejavu]

Originally posted by PnoyReefeR
Nice Brian ... I can learn from this build thread .. your tank will be filled like everyone says quick

Thanks Steve, Let hope that doesn't happen.


Update for the day- Not much was done. I did finish setting up my 90 gal, so I hope to get my fish and corals back sometime next week.

I also had my buddy who's a electrician stop over. I plan to added one or two 20 amp beakers just for the tank. Since my basement is finished and my electrical box is on the other side to the basement I can not easily run the wire. He will be over next week to snake the wire though the ceiling. I need 130' of wire ran .

I do have an outlet that is near the tank, but my living room can lights are on the same beaker. So, the question is

- do I add two 20 amp for the tank or
-one 20 amp and daisy chain a few outlet off the one thats there.

[mpoletti]

I use a seperate 20 amp for my lights, return and chiller. Everything else is ran off of a daisy chain outlet that was already in place.

[Dejavu]

Originally posted by mpoletti
I use a seperate 20 amp for my lights, return and chiller. Everything else is ran off of a daisy chain outlet that was already in place.

Thanks Mark, It good to know I only need one. I might run two if the cost isn't that much more.

[Dejavu]

I got all the uprights in today and cut the top and bottom plywood for the stand. I left the top unmounted so I can get it back though my slider after I paint the inside and urethane the out side of the frame.

I plan on painting the inside white with oil-base paint and using SPAR urethane for the outside. There coats of each. Here the frame with the uprights.

[Dejavu]

Picked up 100lbs of Pohnpei Dry rock today. Two of the pieces are
25 lbs each . Still need to pressure wash it before I can add it to the other 100 lbs of live rock I have. It should be cured by the time I need it.



.


Update on the electrical too. The cost to run the 20 AMP line from one end of the house to the other was $500. Too rich for my blood. That leaves me other two options.

-one: trench the wire outside. Which will not be easily done do to the massive patio in the way.

-two: daisy chain the two outlet near the tank. Both are on separate breakers.

Or i could away pay the $500 for hte new line. Any advice??

[Gondore]

$500 seems a bit high. I had this done for around $250-$300.

[mpoletti]

Very nice Brian. Is there an electrician in your local club? Frags/$$$ is always a better price

[Dejavu]

Originally posted by Gondore
$500 seems a bit high. I had this done for around $250-$300.

The line is 130' that fished thought the ceiling in a finished basement. Might be high or not, but it doesn't look easy. It's just not the cost of the wire it's mostly labor, which I can see. The run is from one end of the ceiling to the other with a few turns it need to go thought 6 different rooms With this option I will only have two hole in the finished ceiling. I'll try to get a lay out of the basement, might be easier to see.

Originally posted by mpoletti
Very nice Brian. Is there an electrician in your local club? Frags/$$$ is always a better price

His is from the club the labor if half rate. He also a LPS guy.

[Gieser]

Just getting caught up on your thread. Looking GREAT and can't wait to see it all come together.

[Dejavu]

Here is the finished frame for the tank stand. The inside was painted white with oil-base (4 coats) paint and SPAR urethane for the outside (6-7 coats). Still need to make the face for the stand and canopy.

Skimmer and Ca reactor for size reference .

[Dejavu]

I thought I would update this since its been a while. Not much has been done on the setup as I have been getting some of corals moved back into the old 90 gal. I do plan to start the canopy and skin for the stand this week.

On a side note our house had a huge power surge in a thunderstorm last week. My profilux was damage in the strom and need to be fixed or replaced. I was thing of getting a RKE… any thoughts.

[Ed Reef]

Sorry to hear about the storm Brian. Why makes you want to change controller brand??

[Dejavu]

Thanks Ed. While I like the profilux its just more controller than I need. I might keep it since i have alot ton of power bars along with other acc.

One thing I would like to have is web access. Which is a lot of $$$ with the profilux, along with most of there add-on's.

[Ed Reef]

So true....well IMO both Profilux and RKE does what you want it to do so it's matter of cost I guess....

Profilux = just the controller + web access add on
REK = controller, power bars, probes (might be able to sued GHL probes here), web access

Not sure on which is more cost effective but I presume going back to Profilux could be more cost effective since you have already most of the stuff??

[Dejavu]

The one thing I do like with my profilux is the tunze control. But one the other hand, to get web and alerts the SMS Unit is over $500.

I can't remember do you have a profilux, Ed?

[Ed Reef]

Yes I do..... but no $$ for the web alert thingy

Waiting for the price to drop or maybe one day someone find a cheaper solution

[Dejavu]

I here hear you there. It's one expensive thingy, That why I'm looking into other options.

[Gondore]

You might want to check out the Neptune Apex that is supposed to come out this week Brian. It has the web functionality for programming of the controller, controlling the tank, and sending e-mail alerts. It can also control Tunzes without any additional addons. I believe you can purchase the head unit, 8 outlet power bar, temp probe, and PH probe for $500. I currently run the ACIII from Neptune and love it. The ACIII has all the functionality of the Apex except the ability to monitor salinity and control Tunzes (requires Aqua Surf addon). I did a price/functionality comparison between the RKE, Apex, and Profilux several months ago and I found that the Apex is the most cost effective with the Profilux being the least cost effective. If you want the exact numbers I can dig them up for you.

[Dejavu]

I was just reading about the Apex. Seem interesting. I would love to see the numbers if you can find them David.

[Gieser]

Gondore makes some great points about the Apex. I bought and have been using the ACIII because of the web access it offers along with the ability to email me when there is a problem. Plus, the programming was very easy to do. If you happen to have an iphone, everything is controllable from an application that was created for controlling the ACIII from that as well. For the price, web access and control, along with the amount of controllable items and probes, the APEX is going to be a strong competition when it comes to price. Luckily, everyhting is backwards compatible, so I will be able to use all of my ACIII hardware with the the new APEX system, if I choose to upgrade.

[Gondore]

Here are the numbers. I threw them together a month or two ago so pricing may have changed.

Apex - under $500 includes
Apex Head Unit
Module for all probes
Temp Probe
PH Probe
EB8 (8 outlets)

RKE - $580 includes
1 x ReefKeeper Elite Head Unit (RKM-GC1)
1 x RKM-SL1 (pH, ORP, temperature, 2 micro switches)
2 x RKM-PC4 (total of 8 outlets)
1 x RKM-SID (System Interface Device)
1 x pH Probe Kit
1 x Temperature Probe

Profilux - $650.00 includes
Profilux Plus II with GHL temp probe
Digital 6 socket power bar
Aqua Digital PH probe
RS232 serial cable 1.8m
PH 7 and 9 calibration fluids

Also, as I mentioned above, depending on the functionality that you need the ACIII may be a cheap way to go as a lot of people will be upgrading to the Apex when it is released (myself probably included).

[Ed Reef]

Guys, any link where I can do some reading on Apex??


Sorry Brian to take it OT

[Gondore]

Originally posted by Ed Reef
Guys, any link where I can do some reading on Apex??


Sorry Brian to take it OT

Movie Link:
http://www.reefbuilders.com/2009/04/...-updated-pics/

Details Link:
http://www.neptunesys.com/index.php?...d=43&Itemid=40