Requesting advice on redesigning my sump

JingoFresh · 01/31/2015, 07:49 PM

At the moment, I have a refugium and a sump.

Water drains into a T and goes equally into the refugium and sump, and is returned only from the sump.

My plan is to have water drain only to the refugium, and then be pulled into the sump via the return pump, and subsequently returned to the tank.

I would like any advice on that plan, if it is in improvement or would instead be detrimental.

If that plan is sound, I would like some help in implementing it.

At the moment, I moved the drain line to the sump only, just as a rough test, however this made the water very uneven as seen here:

I assume I could alleviate this by lowering the return.

Just looking for any general input before I proceed.

Thank you.

fritzz1111 · 01/31/2015, 08:56 PM

You've got a lot going on there by looking at the pic (not that it's a bad thing, by any means). Could you include a couple of more pics, perhaps backed up a little and from one or two other vantage points?

Am I correct in saying you've got two separate containers showing there - 1 for fuge and other for sump?

Stackemdeep · 01/31/2015, 09:09 PM

There are distinct advantages to changing the flow rate and thus the turnover separately in the skimming and fuge section. Generally the water in the fuge should turn over slowly allowing the plants more contact time with the water. The water in the skimming section needs to turn over faster for the skimmer to maximize it's efficiency and have enough water present with DOC to maintain a good foam head. Having valves to control each is nice feature to find the sweet spot.

kottok.motors · 01/31/2015, 09:20 PM

I was thinking the same thing Stack, do you really need full flow through your fuge?
Is the crossover pipe in the front the only thing linking the two? It doesn't look like it would handle enough flow to put the two systems in series like you want.

fritzz1111 · 01/31/2015, 10:44 PM

I agree. You basically negate the benefit of having a fuge if the water is passing through so quickly, the organisms you've placed in there can't perform their full function.

Here's what I would probably do (seeing what I can see). I'd start by putting a valve gate on the drain pipe running into the fuge, dial it WAY down and set it to where the fuge overflows (probably through a new exit point) into the sump. I say this cause it's hard to tell depth from the angle of the pic. If your existing plumbing between the two compartments are at six inches or so up, then I would do like you said - raise the level of the fuge. Otherwise I would personally patch those two openings in the side up and drill two more higher. When the slow drip/run of water raises high enough it will begin to skim on over to the sump.

JingoFresh · 02/12/2015, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fritzz1111

I agree. You basically negate the benefit of having a fuge if the water is passing through so quickly, the organisms you've placed in there can't perform their full function.

Here's what I would probably do (seeing what I can see). I'd start by putting a valve gate on the drain pipe running into the fuge, dial it WAY down and set it to where the fuge overflows (probably through a new exit point) into the sump. I say this cause it's hard to tell depth from the angle of the pic. If your existing plumbing between the two compartments are at six inches or so up, then I would do like you said - raise the level of the fuge. Otherwise I would personally patch those two openings in the side up and drill two more higher. When the slow drip/run of water raises high enough it will begin to skim on over to the sump.

Thanks for your response, and I'm sorry for taking so long to reply.

I had this sump custom made for me (to fit within a certain space) and have no experience with PVC pipes fittings, silicon sealing etc...so I'm hoping it I won't need any changes that will require drilling or resealing.

My tank has an octopus in it and that's it, so I was just going to have some cheato and pods in the sump, nothing else.

I was concerned that when water was going through the T pipe, that water in the refuge could become stagnant if it wasn't all getting cycled, but I suppose that wasn't a valid concern.

My main goal with changing the sump is to have the return line to below the water, but I'm not sure how to lower it -- it looks like I'd have to completely change the T pipe setup I have.

I've added some extra photos which should give a clearer idea, and thankyou for any feedback

JingoFresh · 02/17/2015, 10:55 PM

Just bumping this as I am still really hoping for some assistance

01/31/2015, 07:49 PM	#1
JingoFresh Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 447	Requesting advice on redesigning my sump At the moment, I have a refugium and a sump. Water drains into a T and goes equally into the refugium and sump, and is returned only from the sump. My plan is to have water drain only to the refugium, and then be pulled into the sump via the return pump, and subsequently returned to the tank. I would like any advice on that plan, if it is in improvement or would instead be detrimental. If that plan is sound, I would like some help in implementing it. At the moment, I moved the drain line to the sump only, just as a rough test, however this made the water very uneven as seen here: I assume I could alleviate this by lowering the return. Just looking for any general input before I proceed. Thank you.

01/31/2015, 08:56 PM	#2
fritzz1111 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 69	You've got a lot going on there by looking at the pic (not that it's a bad thing, by any means). Could you include a couple of more pics, perhaps backed up a little and from one or two other vantage points? Am I correct in saying you've got two separate containers showing there - 1 for fuge and other for sump? __________________ - "It is never wise to try to appear to be more clever than you are. It is sometimes wise to appear slightly less so". Current Tanks: FOWLR 29g Biocube (totally modified) and a FW 110g Discus tank Current Tank Info: Current Build - FOWLR 155 Drilled Acrylic Hex with 40gallon Wet/Dry Sump (Removed all Bio Balls), SRO 2000Int Protein Skimmer, Mag 9.5 pump, Neptune Apex Controller - PM1, PM2, WXM, ADL, BOB, 3 Energy Bars, 2 MP40's, Radion XR30 (gen2), 150w heater.

01/31/2015, 09:09 PM	#3
Stackemdeep Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Carolina Beach NC Posts: 429	There are distinct advantages to changing the flow rate and thus the turnover separately in the skimming and fuge section. Generally the water in the fuge should turn over slowly allowing the plants more contact time with the water. The water in the skimming section needs to turn over faster for the skimmer to maximize it's efficiency and have enough water present with DOC to maintain a good foam head. Having valves to control each is nice feature to find the sweet spot. __________________ Paul Current Tank Info: 120g SPS tank

01/31/2015, 10:44 PM	#5
fritzz1111 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 69	I agree. You basically negate the benefit of having a fuge if the water is passing through so quickly, the organisms you've placed in there can't perform their full function. Here's what I would probably do (seeing what I can see). I'd start by putting a valve gate on the drain pipe running into the fuge, dial it WAY down and set it to where the fuge overflows (probably through a new exit point) into the sump. I say this cause it's hard to tell depth from the angle of the pic. If your existing plumbing between the two compartments are at six inches or so up, then I would do like you said - raise the level of the fuge. Otherwise I would personally patch those two openings in the side up and drill two more higher. When the slow drip/run of water raises high enough it will begin to skim on over to the sump. __________________ - "It is never wise to try to appear to be more clever than you are. It is sometimes wise to appear slightly less so". Current Tanks: FOWLR 29g Biocube (totally modified) and a FW 110g Discus tank Current Tank Info: Current Build - FOWLR 155 Drilled Acrylic Hex with 40gallon Wet/Dry Sump (Removed all Bio Balls), SRO 2000Int Protein Skimmer, Mag 9.5 pump, Neptune Apex Controller - PM1, PM2, WXM, ADL, BOB, 3 Energy Bars, 2 MP40's, Radion XR30 (gen2), 150w heater.

01/31/2015, 09:20 PM	#4
kottok.motors Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 66	I was thinking the same thing Stack, do you really need full flow through your fuge? Is the crossover pipe in the front the only thing linking the two? It doesn't look like it would handle enough flow to put the two systems in series like you want.

02/17/2015, 10:55 PM	#7
JingoFresh Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 447	Just bumping this as I am still really hoping for some assistance