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Unread 03/19/2013, 01:21 PM   #26
jmadison
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Also try repositioning your power heads to aim at stagnant trouble areas where you are seeing little water movement and cyano buildup.


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Unread 03/19/2013, 01:22 PM   #27
saltwater2999
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Do you have a TDS meter on your RO system? I would HIGHLY recommend getting one if you do not have one already.

Are the bulbs on the link the same as what you are running?
yes they are the stock bulbs that came with the light fixture

can I buy a tds meter at like homedepot or lowes


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Unread 03/19/2013, 01:24 PM   #28
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[QUOTE=saltwater2999;21297823
can I buy a tds meter at like homedepot or lowes[/QUOTE]

I do not think so, but it's free to call and ask.

http://aquarium.bulkreefsupply.com/s...2&w=tds+meeter

^^ several good options here. I use a dual in line. That way I know how many dissolved solids there are prior to filtration and after it's always 0ppm.


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Unread 03/19/2013, 01:25 PM   #29
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Also try repositioning your power heads to aim at stagnant trouble areas where you are seeing little water movement and cyano buildup.
when I do the 3 day blackout plan when I remove the redslime im going to reposition some rocks and the powerheads to get a better water movement.


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Unread 03/19/2013, 01:27 PM   #30
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im guessing you have this one

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/catalo...t/view/id/399/

I wonder if pet stores would have one


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Unread 03/19/2013, 01:35 PM   #31
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well im going to buy the tds sensor but my current question is should I do the 3 day black out now or wait for the tds sensor to come in


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Unread 03/19/2013, 01:35 PM   #32
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Correct


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Unread 03/19/2013, 01:48 PM   #33
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well im going to buy the tds sensor but my current question is should I do the 3 day black out now or wait for the tds sensor to come in


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Unread 03/19/2013, 02:27 PM   #34
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Go ahead with the black out. You have the cyano now. That's a symptom. We will figure out how clean your ro is when your TDS meter arrives.

When you do the blackout, you'll need to cover the side of your tanks as well. The ambient light will affect the outcome otherwise.


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Unread 03/19/2013, 02:39 PM   #35
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When you do the blackout, you'll need to cover the side of your tanks as well. The ambient light will affect the outcome otherwise.
that should be easy since my fish tank is a in-wall tank where only the front glass is showing


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Unread 03/20/2013, 07:58 AM   #36
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Here's my 2-cents:

A) You may have rushed this tank a bit especially with the anemone in there.

B) Cyano is a very efficient bacteria that's been around since the beginning of time. It's survived ice, fire, drought and everything else up to this day. It will utilize any one of (or more than one at a time) several different means to take up or create food. So you're best to attack it from several angles at one time and then after the initial "attack" change your husbandry routine to keep it under control.

C) You probably want to add more powerheads in there to keep the tank rolling better. My own personal pref is to have a min of 15-20x tank turnover per hour for a FO or FOWLR tank and a min of 20x+ for a beginning reef tank. Some people can get away with less but it's really hard to have a well moving tank with rockwork and such with less than that. In the case of less than 15x use more smaller powerheads rather than fewer larger ones. FLOW is your friend

* - Cyano loves low/slow flow areas
* - Cyano that grows this quickly and this thoroughly is being FED well and also there is a strong probability of a water parameter issue (could be phosphates might be something else)

  • Do the suggested black out but find a way to cover the tank so even ambient room light is blocked out. Do allow for proper ventilation so don't wrap & tape the tank with black plastic at least not tightly. I've used cardboard, cloth, and even an old blanket to accomplish this task.
  • Just before the blackout do as suggested re:blowing off the rock but also use a net to scoop up any Cyano that is on the sandbed. The more you get out up front the better your blackout period will be.
  • Keep the tank dark for at least 3 days (my last treatment like this went 5 days and it was a heavily stocked tank with softies, LPS and SPS with absolutely no ill effects)
  • After blackout I always start my lights on a minimal light schedule and work up to a normal light schedule over the course of a week.
  • After blackout go through the tank again blowing off the rock and getting any Cyano up off the sand bed with a net and then do your large water change.
  • Introduce a good healthy bag of carbon in a high flow area (return from DT in sump for instance) for at least a week.
  • Increase the amount and frequency of your water change until the Cyano is gone completely. After that you can tweak your water change technique back some but don't be afraid do water changes more often or of higher amount.



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Unread 03/20/2013, 08:05 AM   #37
saltwater2999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAl2007 View Post
Here's my 2-cents:

A) You may have rushed this tank a bit especially with the anemone in there.

B) Cyano is a very efficient bacteria that's been around since the beginning of time. It's survived ice, fire, drought and everything else up to this day. It will utilize any one of (or more than one at a time) several different means to take up or create food. So you're best to attack it from several angles at one time and then after the initial "attack" change your husbandry routine to keep it under control.

C) You probably want to add more powerheads in there to keep the tank rolling better. My own personal pref is to have a min of 15-20x tank turnover per hour for a FO or FOWLR tank and a min of 20x+ for a beginning reef tank. Some people can get away with less but it's really hard to have a well moving tank with rockwork and such with less than that. In the case of less than 15x use more smaller powerheads rather than fewer larger ones. FLOW is your friend

* - Cyano loves low/slow flow areas
* - Cyano that grows this quickly and this thoroughly is being FED well and also there is a strong probability of a water parameter issue (could be phosphates might be something else)

  • Do the suggested black out but find a way to cover the tank so even ambient room light is blocked out. Do allow for proper ventilation so don't wrap & tape the tank with black plastic at least not tightly. I've used cardboard, cloth, and even an old blanket to accomplish this task.
  • Just before the blackout do as suggested re:blowing off the rock but also use a net to scoop up any Cyano that is on the sandbed. The more you get out up front the better your blackout period will be.
  • Keep the tank dark for at least 3 days (my last treatment like this went 5 days and it was a heavily stocked tank with softies, LPS and SPS with absolutely no ill effects)
  • After blackout I always start my lights on a minimal light schedule and work up to a normal light schedule over the course of a week.
  • After blackout go through the tank again blowing off the rock and getting any Cyano up off the sand bed with a net and then do your large water change.
  • Introduce a good healthy bag of carbon in a high flow area (return from DT in sump for instance) for at least a week.
  • Increase the amount and frequency of your water change until the Cyano is gone completely. After that you can tweak your water change technique back some but don't be afraid do water changes more often or of higher amount.
Thanks for all the info


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Unread 03/22/2013, 12:24 PM   #38
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just to give everyone look at this thread that also has redslime algea(cyanobacteria) I am currently on my 3rd day of the blackout period and I looked at the tank this morning and I can defiantly see the difference. there is almost no red slime left in the tank. I plan later tonight to post a picture of the tank after the blackout period is over.

just want to thank all the people that helped me get rid off all the red slime


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Unread 03/22/2013, 06:17 PM   #39
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Run some carbon or do a water change. If you had a die off it can release it's toxins into the water. THey are fairly mild from what I understand but depending on how much you had......

Not sure why people recommend black outs for Cyano when all you need is a little siphoning, phosphate remover and a couple of weeks. During unfavorable conditions the cyano can create some sort of cysts that will survive anything and can lay dormant for years so when you turn your lights back on again....TADAA!


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Unread 03/22/2013, 08:45 PM   #40
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Run some carbon or do a water change. If you had a die off it can release it's toxins into the water. THey are fairly mild from what I understand but depending on how much you had......

Not sure why people recommend black outs for Cyano when all you need is a little siphoning, phosphate remover and a couple of weeks. During unfavorable conditions the cyano can create some sort of cysts that will survive anything and can lay dormant for years so when you turn your lights back on again....TADAA!
Black outs give you an additional hand in getting it dialed back and prevent further growth. Manual removal is a pre/post curser. Changes to water chemistry, feeding habits, and circulation are needed to address the core problem as stated earlier in this thread.


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Unread 03/22/2013, 08:47 PM   #41
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Look forward to your success story Saltwater! Let us see/know how it turns out for you.

Take it slow with the new photo period, and consider flow patterns of your power heads.

Have you recieved your TDS meter yet?


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Unread 03/22/2013, 09:27 PM   #42
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Black outs give you an additional hand in getting it dialed back and prevent further growth. Manual removal is a pre/post curser. Changes to water chemistry, feeding habits, and circulation are needed to address the core problem as stated earlier in this thread.
Nearly everyone runs tanks that are naturally high in phospates, Cyano's fav food. This is why most people in the hobby use GFO or an alternative. A small Cyano or hair algae patch is how many of us know that it is time to change the phosphate remover. Plop in some new and a few days later the algae is gone. Or if you have as much as OP, a few weeks probably.

It is not fuzzy about water chemistry and relatively tolerant to flow since if it does not like a spot it just grows somewhere else. In freshwater you can cure its close relative by adding more nutrients (nitrates). It just really likes phosphates.


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Unread 03/22/2013, 10:41 PM   #43
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Look forward to your success story Saltwater! Let us see/know how it turns out for you.

Take it slow with the new photo period, and consider flow patterns of your power heads.

Have you recieved your TDS meter yet?
The tds meter shipped yesterday and is estimated to arrive Wednesday


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Unread 03/22/2013, 11:01 PM   #44
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Jmaidson; not to derail this thread but have you checked the BRS tds meter against a hand held unit? How much do you trust the BRS meter?


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Unread 03/22/2013, 11:52 PM   #45
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What's your mag? When I had cyano my mag was low.. I raised my magnesium and the cyano disappeared.. I know some of you might be skeptical of that but you might want to check! I had some local reefers tell me to check my mag.


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Unread 03/23/2013, 12:13 AM   #46
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Coincidentally, high magnesium levels can also be used to combat bryopsis. I didn't know it could be used on cyano though.


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Unread 03/26/2013, 12:23 PM   #47
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here the update

its been a week since I started the black out period and heres the result


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Unread 03/26/2013, 12:49 PM   #48
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Just read through this thread, a lot of extremely good information, especially for freshmen. Your tank looks much better. Nice job everyone.


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