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07/20/2012, 05:15 AM | #1251 | |
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A.C.A.B - All Corals Are Beautiful |
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07/20/2012, 05:19 AM | #1252 |
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Wow, over 100K views. I did not think this thread would be som massive when I started it. Very happy about this.
I have recieved far more PM's than I manage to answer. So sorry for not answering them all. But place your questions in the thread and I'm sure they will be answered. Best regards, Magnus
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A.C.A.B - All Corals Are Beautiful |
07/20/2012, 05:26 AM | #1253 | |
Montipora type guy
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Christian Current Tank Info: 100G Half Cylinder |
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07/20/2012, 05:44 AM | #1254 |
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Well, the tank is absolutely thriving. I have been a little busy with other stuff recently so haven't had the time or energy for another video. Tomorrow I'm off to Thailand for three weeks of diving and UW Macro photographing but come late August I think it's time for a video update with the tank.
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A.C.A.B - All Corals Are Beautiful |
07/20/2012, 05:46 AM | #1255 |
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Ya, remember when your girlfriend went out of town, so you posted your build. Thanks for starting the thread.---RICK
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07/20/2012, 08:35 AM | #1256 |
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for those of you guys running your leds on a controller. What driver are you using? do i need to get one thats labeled dimmable? I have an apex controller and id love to test out my 20watt blue chip on my controller to adjust the intensity. Can someone explain this to me? These are the pieces i purchased and im pretty sure i cant dim this driver on my apex correct? If not which driver would you guys recommend for me to be able to do this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220773272950...ht_2064wt_1139 http://www.ebay.com/itm/270831508193...#ht_3254wt_905 http://www.ebay.com/itm/270865876938...#ht_1606wt_905 advice is greatly appreciated.
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- John *blackthunda stands for a black Mistubishi 3000GT with black rims I used to own. Don't get any funny ideas! Current Tank Info: 200 Gal custom tank with dual corner overflows, 80 gal custom sump/refugium, Neptune Apex controller, Dual Lumenmax Elite reflectors with 250 Radiums, SWC 160 Cone Skimmer, 2x Jebao WP-25....and some other stuff. |
07/20/2012, 09:33 AM | #1257 |
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This is a verry nice thread with lots of information.
I have a tank with this dimentions: 200 x 70 x 70 cm with 2 dividers. Now, I have 4 x 250w mh 14.000k and I want to replace this with leds. Witch leds do I need? Is it enough to have 3 x 50w like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-40mil-50...item33779e0520 And some other chips of 20w 20000k? Maybe its better to use leds of 100w? Thanks for the help and information! |
07/20/2012, 09:56 AM | #1258 | |
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1 50w hybrid 20 20k/30 447-450 run 12 hours 2 20w 10k run 8 hours Total of 270W total. Is that enough? |
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07/20/2012, 12:04 PM | #1259 | |
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5pc http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pc-10Watt-1...item43b17194f4 and 5pc http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-10W-Act...item19d27e5799 in design like lassef like picture o attach. are this design was good enough to replace my 2x39W T5 ? most in my tank was LPS. please help me.. also if i use a 2x50W dimmable driver for each series LED (5xwhite and 5xblue) will it work ? |
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07/20/2012, 06:09 PM | #1260 | |
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I wonder what the actual light output of these overseas units vs something like a Kessil is too.
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07/20/2012, 07:59 PM | #1261 | |
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Like I said, it's not for everyone. |
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07/20/2012, 09:37 PM | #1262 | |
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07/20/2012, 09:41 PM | #1263 |
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07/21/2012, 01:11 AM | #1264 |
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Need Help In DIY Build
Tons of info here in this thread. I am wanting to build a LED setup. I currently run 2 - 250 MH and 2 Super Actinics on a 100G tank.
Dimensions is 60" x 20" x 18" Top of Water line to top of sand bed is roughly 16 1/2 to 17" Top of inside of my canopy to waterline is 10" I can cut a hole in the top of canopy to achieve a full 10" if needed then trim around those holes where the heatsinks would stick out. Now what I like is Blue Lighting in the AM first off the a hour later my Metal Halides come on. the in the Evening the MH goes off first then the super actinics. One thing I currently do not have is moonlighting I would like a nice royal blue at night. With that said to achieve that and replace what I already have AND if it was you building this what would you exactly use. What heatsink, what LED's and how many. Also forgot to mention I want them to be able to be dimmed with my APEX if possible. I just got this tank running a couple weeks ago and it was a used tank. SO far only thing I have used is lighting which is OLD, tank, stand and canopy. I built my own sump/refugium drilled my holes for the bulkheads ect. I currently have about 150# of mixed lived and dry marco rocks in the tank. And this week since my levels are all in check I moved 2 clowns, a snowflake, 2 BTA's and a lawmower blenny from my 29g biocube. I have several puling xenias from my live rock scavenged from my bio cube, I plan to grow SPS, LPS some mushrooms and some other things so I want these to have adequate and proper lighting. Hope this is enough detail what I want to do and hope you can help with suggestions and places to order maybe links if you have them. Feel free to PM me if you can post a link... I was about to replace both MH Bulbs and Super Actnics but figure the price of those bulbs at the LFS I should be able to buy several items needed for a DIY LED Build... Thank You Very Much Guys...... |
07/21/2012, 04:47 AM | #1265 | |
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You're right, you can not dim with the specified driver. It is difficult to find any good driver, but if you look at your chip specification it says that Forward voltage is 10 - 11 V and the proposed power is 1000 to 2100 mA. The following driver LPF-25D-12 have the specifications for Constant Current Region 6.6-12 V and provides 2100 mA in the area. It would be a good fit but is at max what your chip can handle. I would probably have chosen LPF-25D-15 instead. Constant Current Region is 8.25-15V at a current of 1.67 A. In the first case, you get about 21 watts and the second case about 17 watts. Both drivers can use the 1-10 V signal to dim and as I understand a Apex controller use such a control signal. However, I have not tested this configuration, but believe that it works. If you want to connect more chip to the same driver you ought to connect them in a serie. Find a driver that gives the prefered current and have a constant current region there the sum of your chipīs FV fit in. An example - you want to have two of this chips in a serie - find a driver thats give around 2000 mA and the constant current region include 20 - 22 V. LPF-40D-24 as an example Sincerely Lasse |
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07/21/2012, 05:18 AM | #1266 | |
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It is difficult to find a perfect drive for 5 * 10 watts. If you go down a little from the maximum current of 1000 mA thera are some including the HLG-40H-54B, which would give about 80% of the effect (about 40 watts) Sincerely Lasse |
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07/21/2012, 05:58 AM | #1267 | |
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07/21/2012, 06:43 AM | #1268 | |
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Sincerely Lasse |
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07/21/2012, 07:04 AM | #1269 |
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07/21/2012, 07:55 AM | #1270 | |
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so..you means to separately 5white LED in 1 rows and the other 5blue led in 1 rows ? about the driver,can i use 50W driver if each row i build the led in series ? if yes,then i need 2 long heatsink like what you build in picture.can you tell me please,where you get the heatsink ? |
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07/21/2012, 10:05 AM | #1271 |
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Lassef i cone du another build fore diffrent tank 48x24x20 inch i was think two pendants each vith 1-50w multy chip , 2-10w 10k , 2-10w 16k , 4-10w RB, should i need add any UV led vhot you think thanks for respond.
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07/21/2012, 10:44 AM | #1272 | |
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07/21/2012, 11:38 AM | #1273 | |
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The heatsink i got from Ebay (somewhere) The other construction (arround the heatsink) I found at my job, it is two covers from a cable duct. Use your imagination Sincerely Lasse |
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07/21/2012, 11:41 AM | #1274 |
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07/21/2012, 11:51 AM | #1275 | |
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Sincerely Lasse. |
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