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01/28/2007, 08:05 AM | #76 |
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fishy- i dont know if this has been posted yet but New jersey does have a reef club. If thats what you said. this summer they plan a trip down to a few places to go collecting. From what i've read they have found seahorses which where all carryed up by the current.
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01/29/2007, 08:02 PM | #77 |
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Decided that i think i may want to spend a bit more money and do a sump setup instead of cheaping out and using a HOB.
Here is a basic idea of what i want to do, is a 10G enough though? (arrows show flow of water) 2" gaps between bottom of tank and where barrier begins. comments, suggestions (of pumps and better layouts) |
02/03/2007, 10:19 PM | #78 |
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Alright, after some problems and lots and lots and yes lots of planning the sump is starting to come together. The final plumbing layout was finalized and approved (by my dad) tonight.
The sump is a 20Gallon long located under my 55gallon fishtank, the red pipe stands for the waste which will syphin into the sump and the green is the return. The plumbing parts will be purchased tomorrow and i possible a pump. The return is a bit of creativeness on my part, i wanted to be able to have some flow in the tank but not to much to disrupt the seahorses. 2 45 degree bends will create angled multi directional flows. To give you a bit of an idea I will take pictures as much as i can as i build it and of the final thing. Heres the layout of the sump its self The heater will go in the return on the bottom.
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55 gallon w/ 20 gallon sump/fuge |
02/04/2007, 01:09 AM | #79 |
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dejavu
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02/05/2007, 03:41 PM | #80 |
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Alright, all the plumbing is dry fitted, should be glueing tonight or tomorrow or both. Once again, i'm going to harder way and using a pure syphen to get the waste water into the sump. All pipe is 3/4" PVC. The waste posts are about 3" and will be drilled (tubes farther from the side of the tank) And the return into the display are the two other posts closer to the side. The left one is shorter and the right one is longer both with 45 Degree angles at the end.
We also decided to make it easier to top off and add water for water changes by adding a tee and a ball valve that will allow me to empty water from a holding tank (see below) directly into the syphen line that will then run the water through the sump. The other tee and valve are to get rid of water. It is attached to the return line into the tank, open the ball valve and the water will exit the side of the house. We are testing this with a MAG 3 pump, if it doesn't work we'r going to return it and buy one that will but my dads convinced it should work. SUMP Feed from the holding tank Feed to outside Left side of display tank Right side of display tank This is where the holding tank is going to be, this is a closet just a few feet from where the sump is. We still have to build the platform. Last edited by fishymann; 02/05/2007 at 03:49 PM. |
02/05/2007, 04:21 PM | #81 |
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Correct me if I'm wrong....
But isn't brass a no no in salt water? |
02/06/2007, 02:26 AM | #82 |
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Nice catch
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02/06/2007, 07:01 AM | #83 |
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oh yea-i would ditch the brass nipples. you can buy sch80 ones at HD.
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02/06/2007, 09:35 AM | #84 |
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You stated: "The sump is a 20Gallon long located under my 55gallon fishtank, the red pipe stands for the waste which will syphin into the sump and the green is the return."
I think you will have problems with this set up. If the siphon breaks, you'll have a flood. you may want to check out overflows or consider drilling the tank. not bashing your setup, but I think it would close to impossible to maintain a siphon 24/7. |
02/06/2007, 01:24 PM | #85 |
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we could only find the brass ones at HD
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55 gallon w/ 20 gallon sump/fuge |
02/08/2007, 01:26 AM | #86 |
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Most people I know in the hobby will always upgrade their seahorse only tank to a reef system+. To save $$ in the long run, why not go with a MH pendant. For a 35+g tall hex I think a 250w 20000K will do great. It will also give your tank the natural shimmer that makes the seahorses looking that much more beautiful.
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02/08/2007, 09:13 AM | #87 |
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02/09/2007, 06:29 PM | #88 |
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anutha newby had a point, the set-up looks cool, but you could have a flood problem. Look at some of the posts around reef central on plumbing. or post your set-up in a seperate thread to get some feedback.
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02/09/2007, 11:01 PM | #89 |
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WOW!!!! I have no advice but I have to say that the way everyone just pitches in and helps as Fishy is working on his setup is just amazing. I know that is what everyones here for, but this is a real good forum where no one puts down any ideas; just helps to make them better. I think with these people you have helping you, you will have a very successful seahorse aquarium. Much Luck to you Fishy, you seem to be a real dedicated hobbiest.
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02/10/2007, 12:11 AM | #90 |
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Jacovan, to run a 250 mh on that tank he'd need to add a chiller. I'm all for keeping corals with horses but MH's are just impracticle in most setups. JME
The syphon drain is a problem. IMO it's a mess waiting to happen. JMO You can replace the brass nozzles with small pieces of PVC no?
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120g mixed reef 90g QT |
02/10/2007, 02:14 PM | #91 |
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we needed them threaded thats the reason for the brass nozzles. We talked about it with the a guy over at the LFS (who does actually know a ton about salt water tanks) and said that for what we'r using them for it wont be a problem.
Jacovan1: Like pled said, i'd need a chiller to do that and also a bit bigger bank . Tanklove: Your correct everyone here is great, they prove that you dont have to agree 100% with some one elses ideas so still be useful. Loaded the display tank up with about 25-30lbs of sand yesterday, the baffles are still drying in the sump and i think we'r going to get the sump running tomorrow. I ordered 10lbs of driftwood base rock and 20lbs of live tonga rock on friday but i dont think its going to be shipped out till monday. More rock will be added shipping charges were just getting a little extreme. The baffles in the sump gave way yesterday after holding water and sand for about 30 minutes so i had to run out and get new sealant, i'm hoping the other stuff was just a little old and the weather had ruined it. I'm going to be in Cali for five days and im leaving thursday at 3 am so the rock most likely wont be here before i leave, so when i return i'll post pictures of it.
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55 gallon w/ 20 gallon sump/fuge |
02/11/2007, 09:29 PM | #92 |
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On the brass tips, they make threaded PVC. You would need a threaded male adapter. Probably a couple of them. They are like $.033 a piece. I ue them all the time.
Driftwood base rock? Did you silicone the baffles or just weldon?
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02/14/2007, 10:00 AM | #93 |
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Silicone on the baffles, the new stuff worked great and was fully cured in the 48 hours like it said, been holding great since sunday.
http://www.oceanproaquatics.com/shop...b5e1dff6208656 driftwood base rock getting the flow to work correctly has taken a lot of practice and we'r still experimenting, i have a feeling when i get back from california i'm going to be making an overflow box. Now before anyone says "told you so" we learn from our experiences this entire hobby is about learning.
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55 gallon w/ 20 gallon sump/fuge Last edited by fishymann; 02/14/2007 at 10:07 AM. |
02/14/2007, 04:57 PM | #94 |
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I dont get what that rock is? What is it made out of? You should figure it out before putting it in the tank cause different geological materials will affect water chemistry. Regular FW dirftwood softens the water for istance.
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02/22/2007, 07:31 PM | #95 |
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got back from Cali a few days ago and the tank has been great . the siphon has been awesome!, i simply cover the bottom with my hand allow the air out of the lines remove my hand and its all set. It took a bit of fine tuning but now i can start and stop it with minimul problems. I added salt today and will check tomorrow i'm shooting for around 1.022 SG. The rock should be here some time next week and next weekend i will go out and pick up the lights. I'm pretty sure i'm going to go with the Daul Satellite 2x65watt compact flourescents. Right now i'm not to sure about the flow, i may have to add a few power heads to keep from having dead areas but we'll find out that later.
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55 gallon w/ 20 gallon sump/fuge |
02/22/2007, 09:42 PM | #96 |
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Go for 1.025 salinity. There is no good reason to go with anything less than full strength seawater. It is what your organisms are best addapted to.
Fred
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02/23/2007, 05:48 AM | #97 |
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really? everything i've read about seahorses shows 1.022
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55 gallon w/ 20 gallon sump/fuge |
02/25/2007, 06:53 PM | #98 |
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got the SG leveled to about 1.023 temp around 70-72 and put in a few flakes of food the other night. I'm defintly going to need to setup a circulation system to keep the tank from having to many dead spots, ill get working on some plans for it soon.
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55 gallon w/ 20 gallon sump/fuge |
02/27/2007, 09:41 AM | #99 |
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Hey Fishy....good to see you getting the tank together.
One thing though...I agree 100% with anutha. You should use an overflow box. You are taking a huge risk of your siphon breaking, and you coming home to a huge flood. Atleast with an overflow, you can adjust it. You should be safe of any type of a flood,incase of a power outage. I also have a 15 gal rubbermaid container that is short and long inside my stand,that my 30 gal sump sits in. Just for added protection. I think those about $8 at target. You can never be too safe.... |
02/27/2007, 01:56 PM | #100 |
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Thats a great idea nynex. I have used pond liner in the past as well.
Fred
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