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Unread 07/18/2017, 01:40 PM   #1
jacksonpt
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tips on removing old bulkheads

This weekend I'm looking to replace my old glass holes box with a new Eshopps box. That means removing an old bulkhead with very little space work inside the box.

Any tips/suggestions?


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Unread 07/18/2017, 02:13 PM   #2
GimpyFin
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Maybe some long reach dual pivot pliers?


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Unread 07/18/2017, 06:54 PM   #3
Clowning_Around
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you could grab a scrap piece of 2x4 and notch the end to fit over two opposing parrallel nut sides much like one big socket. Then simply turn it to loosen..

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Unread 07/18/2017, 07:44 PM   #4
tazzy695
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screw driver and hammer gently tap the edge of the lock nut in the direction of loosening


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Unread 07/18/2017, 07:54 PM   #5
Smokey Stover
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Large Plumbers Basin Wrench?


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Unread 07/18/2017, 08:29 PM   #6
Sharpimage
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Sawzall?


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Unread 07/18/2017, 11:36 PM   #7
Gorgok
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I made a 70mm socket for my bulkheads (1.5" sched 40) out of 3" pvc or so. Cut a strip of it off the end, shorten it and glue it back into the end (to double the wall thickness) and with a printed out guide dremelled the flats.

At the other end drill a hole through both walls and stick like a 3/4" bit of pipe for extra leverage.

Real handy when you can't get anything much longer than the bulkhead is wide deep into a cavity.

Could probably 3d print a socket end to glue onto a bit of large pipe too, since it isn't that much force you need to put on these things (just can be really inconveniently located).


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Unread 07/19/2017, 12:35 AM   #8
WLachnit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorgok View Post
I made a 70mm socket for my bulkheads (1.5" sched 40) out of 3" pvc or so. Cut a strip of it off the end, shorten it and glue it back into the end (to double the wall thickness) and with a printed out guide dremelled the flats.

At the other end drill a hole through both walls and stick like a 3/4" bit of pipe for extra leverage.

Real handy when you can't get anything much longer than the bulkhead is wide deep into a cavity.

Could probably 3d print a socket end to glue onto a bit of large pipe too, since it isn't that much force you need to put on these things (just can be really inconveniently located).


That sounds like a fantastic solution....will have to remember that.


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Unread 07/19/2017, 11:35 AM   #9
jacksonpt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorgok View Post
I made a 70mm socket for my bulkheads (1.5" sched 40) out of 3" pvc or so. Cut a strip of it off the end, shorten it and glue it back into the end (to double the wall thickness) and with a printed out guide dremelled the flats.

At the other end drill a hole through both walls and stick like a 3/4" bit of pipe for extra leverage.

Real handy when you can't get anything much longer than the bulkhead is wide deep into a cavity.

Could probably 3d print a socket end to glue onto a bit of large pipe too, since it isn't that much force you need to put on these things (just can be really inconveniently located).
Got a pic? I'm having a hard time picturing this.


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- All advice I give is based on my first hand experience. YMMV.

Current Tank Info: 38g (mostly LPS) with a 20g sump/fuge and all the other standard goodies
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Unread 07/19/2017, 09:11 PM   #10
Gorgok
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Can't see the seam of the strip that i added to thicken the walls well, its at the 7 o'clock position or so.

The strip is just like a 3/4" piece cut off the end, then maybe 1/2" removed from circumference so that it would bend into the inside of the original pipe.

Once it was doubled up lots of material was there to cut the flats.


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Unread 07/19/2017, 09:15 PM   #11
JZinCO
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I like the pvc and 2-by tricks. I have destroyed bulk heads with wrenches before because the bulkheads are so soft


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