AI Hydra Settings Thread - Page 198

GfordQC · 11/12/2017, 06:36 PM

Orcus,

How did you transition your reef to using the T5's? I'm looking to add 4 T5 at the beginning of the new year and was wondering how you acclimated everything.

Orcus Varuna · 11/12/2017, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GfordQC

Orcus,

How did you transition your reef to using the T5's? I'm looking to add 4 T5 at the beginning of the new year and was wondering how you acclimated everything.

If switching from the AB+ full power profile I would switch to my t5ho profile and add 1 bulb a week over a month. When I made the change I just kind of switched thinking everything would be okay since PAR was roughly the same. Well that was a bad idea, I lost some corals and bleached others. I think the downfall was I failed to take into account that even though PAR was the same coverage was worlds better. In essence previously shaded regions of my corals were suddenly blasted with way more PAR then they were used to and they bleached out. After the initial adjustment period though I must say that I couldn’t be happier with the results. Just take it slow and you’ll be alright!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kinetic · 11/12/2017, 10:23 PM

Just took some PAR readings with my AI Hydra 52 HD, with the SPS AB+ high power (w/ peaks) program that Orcus had posted, with one modification. I increased the whites by a lot (probably bumped them up to twice as much as the baseline).

I have no corals (yet), and just anemones. The H. Magnifica is getting toasted with over 400! It hasn't moved from the pedestal rock I made for it, and the lighting probably has a lot to do with it. When I introduced it to the tank, I put it right where it is today, and it hasn't moved since.

The BTAs I'm guessing are pretty happy. The flow is a bit strong for them, but light seems to be enough.

My whites are bumped high because I subjectively like the aesthetics of the lights to be less blue. Still plenty of color and coolness to the tank, but my home office still looks nice.

When I get SPS, I'm going to probably have to modify the whites... since they may just totally burn the SPS up. Or do you guys think they'll be fine with slow acclimation?

GfordQC · 11/13/2017, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

If switching from the AB+ full power profile I would switch to my t5ho profile and add 1 bulb a week over a month. When I made the change I just kind of switched thinking everything would be okay since PAR was roughly the same. Well that was a bad idea, I lost some corals and bleached others. I think the downfall was I failed to take into account that even though PAR was the same coverage was worlds better. In essence previously shaded regions of my corals were suddenly blasted with way more PAR then they were used to and they bleached out. After the initial adjustment period though I must say that I couldn’t be happier with the results. Just take it slow and you’ll be alright!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds good! I will definitely do that. Thank you for your efforts on this thread. I think it has been a benefit for everyone with hydra lights for sure.

Orcus Varuna · 11/13/2017, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kinetic

Just took some PAR readings with my AI Hydra 52 HD, with the SPS AB+ high power (w/ peaks) program that Orcus had posted, with one modification. I increased the whites by a lot (probably bumped them up to twice as much as the baseline).

I have no corals (yet), and just anemones. The H. Magnifica is getting toasted with over 400! It hasn't moved from the pedestal rock I made for it, and the lighting probably has a lot to do with it. When I introduced it to the tank, I put it right where it is today, and it hasn't moved since.

The BTAs I'm guessing are pretty happy. The flow is a bit strong for them, but light seems to be enough.

My whites are bumped high because I subjectively like the aesthetics of the lights to be less blue. Still plenty of color and coolness to the tank, but my home office still looks nice.

When I get SPS, I'm going to probably have to modify the whites... since they may just totally burn the SPS up. Or do you guys think they'll be fine with slow acclimation?

I have unfortunately never been able to acclimate sps to more then 24-25% whites even with a slow acclimation. The Cree XP2 Cool White diodes are very hard on sps for some reason. I like you much prefer a color temp closer to 10k, the way I achieved this was by adding some Geissmann tropic 6500k & ATI Coral Plus t5 supplements.

By the way you have a darn nice setup, looks fantastic. I can’t wait to see that mag literally take up the entire tank!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Orcus Varuna · 11/13/2017, 05:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GfordQC

Sounds good! I will definitely do that. Thank you for your efforts on this thread. I think it has been a benefit for everyone with hydra lights for sure.

You are very welcome! I thank you and everyone else for participating and keeping this thread going for so long.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reeftub · 11/13/2017, 09:31 PM

I just wish they had an upgrade from hydra52 to the hd as I have 6 -52s over my 190 and I’d have to sell my 52s to buy the new HD’s which sucks but I’ll wait until they change the white leds and also add warm whites like the radions. I’m sure that will be next for these guys.

Orcus Varuna · 11/13/2017, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reeftub

I just wish they had an upgrade from hydra52 to the hd as I have 6 -52s over my 190 and I’d have to sell my 52s to buy the new HD’s which sucks but I’ll wait until they change the white leds and also add warm whites like the radions. I’m sure that will be next for these guys.

As AI are owned by Ecotech now I would definitely expect a lot of similarities between the Radion G4 and next generation hydras. Honestly wouldn’t be surprised if they merged the two brands keeping the hydra moniker as a mid range lighting brand. The addition of some warmer white diodes I have to agree would be wonderful. Something around 6500k would be ideal imo!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

d3nrh · 11/14/2017, 03:26 PM

Hi Orcus,

i realy like you SPS AB+ settings and they work very well . I'm running 3 Hydra 26 HD on a Reefers 525xL.

I would like to add a Bluelight Phase for 2-3 Hours to have great fluorescent look in the very late evening. Do you have any suggestions how this will not stress out the corals and what would be the best fluorescent settings you can recomment ?

I have tryed a lot of times, but to get the very good fluorescent look i have to much lightblue what will make the water shine to much.

Many thx for awnsers ,
greatings from germany
Mike

Some Picture of my Tanks:

shaginwagon13 · 11/14/2017, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

As AI are owned by Ecotech now...

Didn't know that until now lol

Are you guys turning your Red and Green settings to 0%? From a lot of online sources, it says to turn them down to 0% on the display tank because it promoted algae growth.

What are people doing with this?

rishma · 11/14/2017, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaginwagon13

Didn't know that until now lol

Are you guys turning your Red and Green settings to 0%? From a lot of online sources, it says to turn them down to 0% on the display tank because it promoted algae growth.

What are people doing with this?

No, I turn them up with white to get the look I want. I always assume Algae is a nutrient problem not a light problem. Not many watts of red/green to worry about.

Orcus Varuna · 11/14/2017, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaginwagon13

Didn't know that until now lol

Are you guys turning your Red and Green settings to 0%? From a lot of online sources, it says to turn them down to 0% on the display tank because it promoted algae growth.

What are people doing with this?

I’m with @rishma nutrients cause algae not light imo. I think the red and green channels are essential for proper chromatoprotien formation and zooxanthella health. Most of our corals are from less then 20’ of water. As such they get plenty of this wavelength light in their natural environment.

Orcus Varuna · 11/14/2017, 06:30 PM

Leaving the blues on 5% or less for a few hrs at the end of the day shouldn’t be an issue.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Orcus Varuna · 11/14/2017, 08:01 PM

One of those rare photos where everyone’s posing!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GfordQC · 11/15/2017, 12:14 PM

Orcus,

What is the height of your lights off the water now that you added T5?

Thanks

Orcus Varuna · 11/15/2017, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GfordQC

Orcus,

What is the height of your lights off the water now that you added T5?

Thanks

About 14”

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

dxdoan · 11/27/2017, 09:50 AM

hi all,
I just purchased a used AI Hydra 26 HD
I would like to connect it through the web so that I can upload profiles from other reefers.
It says that "Device with serial number XXXXXXX is already registered."
If I contact the previous owner can they de-register to allow me to add? Or will it stay on their account which will require me to ask for their user name and password? (ask them to change their password of course).
Thanks guys!

d0ughb0y · 11/27/2017, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dxdoan

hi all,
I just purchased a used AI Hydra 26 HD
I would like to connect it through the web so that I can upload profiles from other reefers.
It says that "Device with serial number XXXXXXX is already registered."
If I contact the previous owner can they de-register to allow me to add? Or will it stay on their account which will require me to ask for their user name and password? (ask them to change their password of course).
Thanks guys!

you have to ask the previous owner to remove the device from his myAI account.

SGT_DAO · 11/29/2017, 02:34 PM

I've acquired a Prime (Non HD) and currently running a Hydra 26 (Non HD). Not sure if this question has been asked, but I plan on using the Prime for my fuge (Overkill....I know) so is there a way to run opposite photoperiods or would have to get another director?

qfrisco · 11/29/2017, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SGT_DAO

I've acquired a Prime (Non HD) and currently running a Hydra 26 (Non HD). Not sure if this question has been asked, but I plan on using the Prime for my fuge (Overkill....I know) so is there a way to run opposite photoperiods or would have to get another director?

I'm about to install a Vega over my refugium, so no, I don't think using a Prime for your fuge is overkill. :-)

I believe the only way to have your Prime run on a different schedule from your Hydra 26 is to setup a separate tank within your Director. I have a second tank setup within my Director called Refugium and have discovered the Vega for that tank. You can then setup a schedule that is opposite your display tank's schedule. The Director supports multiple tanks so no need to get another Director.

Orcus Varuna · 11/29/2017, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dxdoan

hi all,
I just purchased a used AI Hydra 26 HD
I would like to connect it through the web so that I can upload profiles from other reefers.
It says that "Device with serial number XXXXXXX is already registered."
If I contact the previous owner can they de-register to allow me to add? Or will it stay on their account which will require me to ask for their user name and password? (ask them to change their password of course).
Thanks guys!

Can call AI as well I had them switch a second hand light I bought on the forums last year.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SGT_DAO · 11/29/2017, 07:07 PM

Thanks Frisco!

Silfer · 11/30/2017, 02:19 PM

So I changed from an ledzeal Zeus unit to a hydra 26 hd today and the disco effect on the wall behind my tank and the roof above it is horrendous. What's that all about? The light is 8" above the water line on a 2ft cube. The surface water isn't still but it's not rippling like crazy either as I have a single vortech mp10 for my anemone cube.

Orcus Varuna · 11/30/2017, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silfer

So I changed from an ledzeal Zeus unit to a hydra 26 hd today and the disco effect on the wall behind my tank and the roof above it is horrendous. What's that all about? The light is 8" above the water line on a 2ft cube. The surface water isn't still but it's not rippling like crazy either as I have a single vortech mp10 for my anemone cube.

Raise the light up to 12-14” above the water line. It greatly reduces the disco effect while still retaining decent shimmer.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BAR reject hehe · 11/30/2017, 11:10 PM

anybody running the David Saxby light schedule with peaks and dips throughout the day?

11/12/2017, 06:36 PM	#4926
GfordQC Registered Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 79	Orcus, How did you transition your reef to using the T5's? I'm looking to add 4 T5 at the beginning of the new year and was wondering how you acclimated everything. __________________ Current Tank: 90 Gal SCA Cube Mixed Reef (Build Stage) Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2600702

11/15/2017, 12:14 PM	#4940
GfordQC Registered Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 79	Orcus, What is the height of your lights off the water now that you added T5? Thanks __________________ Current Tank: 90 Gal SCA Cube Mixed Reef (Build Stage) Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2600702

11/27/2017, 09:50 AM	#4942
dxdoan Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 32	hi all, I just purchased a used AI Hydra 26 HD I would like to connect it through the web so that I can upload profiles from other reefers. It says that "Device with serial number XXXXXXX is already registered." If I contact the previous owner can they de-register to allow me to add? Or will it stay on their account which will require me to ask for their user name and password? (ask them to change their password of course). Thanks guys! __________________ Phil Current Tank Info: Cade HL1500 (5FT) - 160G/650L

11/12/2017, 10:23 PM	#4928
Kinetic Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 7,230	Just took some PAR readings with my AI Hydra 52 HD, with the SPS AB+ high power (w/ peaks) program that Orcus had posted, with one modification. I increased the whites by a lot (probably bumped them up to twice as much as the baseline). I have no corals (yet), and just anemones. The H. Magnifica is getting toasted with over 400! It hasn't moved from the pedestal rock I made for it, and the lighting probably has a lot to do with it. When I introduced it to the tank, I put it right where it is today, and it hasn't moved since. The BTAs I'm guessing are pretty happy. The flow is a bit strong for them, but light seems to be enough. My whites are bumped high because I subjectively like the aesthetics of the lights to be less blue. Still plenty of color and coolness to the tank, but my home office still looks nice. When I get SPS, I'm going to probably have to modify the whites... since they may just totally burn the SPS up. Or do you guys think they'll be fine with slow acclimation?

11/13/2017, 09:31 PM	#4932
Reeftub Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 389	I just wish they had an upgrade from hydra52 to the hd as I have 6 -52s over my 190 and I’d have to sell my 52s to buy the new HD’s which sucks but I’ll wait until they change the white leds and also add warm whites like the radions. I’m sure that will be next for these guys.

11/14/2017, 03:26 PM	#4934
d3nrh Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Posts: 5	Hi Orcus, i realy like you SPS AB+ settings and they work very well . I'm running 3 Hydra 26 HD on a Reefers 525xL. I would like to add a Bluelight Phase for 2-3 Hours to have great fluorescent look in the very late evening. Do you have any suggestions how this will not stress out the corals and what would be the best fluorescent settings you can recomment ? I have tryed a lot of times, but to get the very good fluorescent look i have to much lightblue what will make the water shine to much. Many thx for awnsers , greatings from germany Mike Some Picture of my Tanks:

11/14/2017, 06:30 PM	#4938
Orcus Varuna Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Punta Gorda, FL Posts: 626	Leaving the blues on 5% or less for a few hrs at the end of the day shouldn’t be an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

11/14/2017, 08:01 PM	#4939
Orcus Varuna Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Punta Gorda, FL Posts: 626	One of those rare photos where everyone’s posing! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

11/29/2017, 02:34 PM	#4944
SGT_DAO Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 102	I've acquired a Prime (Non HD) and currently running a Hydra 26 (Non HD). Not sure if this question has been asked, but I plan on using the Prime for my fuge (Overkill....I know) so is there a way to run opposite photoperiods or would have to get another director?

11/29/2017, 07:07 PM	#4947
SGT_DAO Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 102	Thanks Frisco!

11/30/2017, 02:19 PM	#4948
Silfer Gonnae no dae that. Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Scotland Posts: 293	So I changed from an ledzeal Zeus unit to a hydra 26 hd today and the disco effect on the wall behind my tank and the roof above it is horrendous. What's that all about? The light is 8" above the water line on a 2ft cube. The surface water isn't still but it's not rippling like crazy either as I have a single vortech mp10 for my anemone cube.

11/30/2017, 11:10 PM	#4950
BAR reject hehe Registered Member. Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 50	anybody running the David Saxby light schedule with peaks and dips throughout the day?