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01/11/2018, 02:56 PM | #5001 | |
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Location: Bloomington IN
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01/11/2018, 05:46 PM | #5002 |
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Please someone give me some guidance, I'm driving myself crazy toying with the lights haha. A few of my orange/rainbow BTA's are now turning brown. Tank is a Red Sea E260 with 2x Hydra 26HDs. BTA dominated up top, leathers in the middle, zoas on the bottom. I just want to make sure the BTA's have enough light that they're not turning brown, but not bleach them at the same time.
Here are the settings that I've landed on tonight UV: 75 V: 75 RB: 75 B: 75 G: 10 R: 3 CW: 20 I was running my UV and V way down around 40% previously which I believe has started to brown my BTA's. The blues were at 80% with CW around 12%. Colors were popping very well but I dont think they were getting enough overall PAR/PUR. You can see the left side BTA's are overall brown. All the roses have been recently added in the last 2 weeks so they're still bright. The guy I got them from was running his Atlantik LED's at 100% all channels, some of them are a little bleached but they are super bright. Last edited by splix; 01/11/2018 at 05:52 PM. |
01/11/2018, 06:14 PM | #5003 | |
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL
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Use my sps AB+ settings your nems will love the extra par. Should blanket them in a solid 250-300 par. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/11/2018, 06:16 PM | #5004 |
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Location: Indiana
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01/11/2018, 06:18 PM | #5005 | |
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL
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I would say that low power setting should be perfect for the corals you are trying to grow. If you notice your acros are not coloring up after about 3 months at those settings bump up to my full power no peak profile over a 2-3 month slow acclimation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/11/2018, 06:23 PM | #5006 |
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL
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01/11/2018, 06:25 PM | #5007 | |
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Anytime just glad to help. Let me know how it turns out and if your acros rebound. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/11/2018, 07:27 PM | #5008 | |
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Location: Bloomington IN
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01/12/2018, 07:08 AM | #5009 |
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Orcus, what T5's and schedule do you run?
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01/12/2018, 08:43 AM | #5010 | |
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Location: Indiana
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This stupid UV channel has me confused. Everyone on the facebook group says drop UV to almost nothing, but all the documentation for the HD's says keep it up with the rest of the channels. |
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01/12/2018, 08:46 AM | #5011 | |
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL
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Dropping the uv diode always makes me laugh. 250 watt Metal halides put out about 100 times more uv radiation then the lonely near uv diode in the AI pucks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/12/2018, 08:50 AM | #5012 | |
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I currently run my AB+ with t5ho schedule with no peaks on my hydra 52hd on a 24x24 cube. I currently supplement with 1 actinic and 1 Tropic t5. And am in the process of adding 1 more Tropic and actinic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/12/2018, 08:54 AM | #5013 | |
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01/12/2018, 08:55 AM | #5014 |
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01/12/2018, 10:46 AM | #5015 | |
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Location: Boston MA
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Agree, algae growth has little to do with light. The red and green channels are already covered by the white led. Take a look at the published spectrum plot and you can see. Red and green are more for marketing. Also they are low power so they don’t do much at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/12/2018, 11:39 AM | #5016 | |
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Agreed they are of little significance. I more appreciate what they do for the visual appearance of the tank by warming up the color temp of the display without the par increases boosting the cool white diodes has. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/14/2018, 06:43 AM | #5017 |
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Here is the updated link to the settings, someone accidentally deleted the folder AGAIN... lol https://1drv.ms/f/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgZdidaM1bosnUqv21g
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01/19/2018, 12:08 PM | #5018 |
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Posts: 61
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Quick question,
I'm currently rocking a center mounted hydra 26HD on my Reefer 250. I finally purchased a 2nd one. Should I dial down the settings when I install the second one, or just keep them the same? I'm running Orcus Varuna's AB+ Low power currently. I have a decently large anemone I don't want to bleach. Thanks in advance! |
01/19/2018, 07:42 PM | #5019 | |
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Since you effectively doubled the light output I would set both lights at 50% acclimation for 30-60 days. Eventually though you will want to move over to the full power schedule on both lights especially with nems. I’m running my low power on a hydra52hd with 48 watts of t5ho supplements on a 50 gallon cube and get 200-300 par throughout the tank. You with 4 pucks on a 66 gallon tank running just the low power schedule will not have many locations in the tank receiving more then 150 par. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/22/2018, 12:55 PM | #5020 |
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 61
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Hey,
Thanks for the pointers! Do you suggest I just switch to the high power version now? The difference was the red/green/white channels had more power right? Light came in last week but they sent the wrong mount so I should have it set up in the next day or 2. Here is a recentish picture of the tank if it helps: Thanks again for the profiles and the support! |
01/22/2018, 05:19 PM | #5021 | |
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL
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AI Hydra Settings Thread
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I would run this schedule https://1drv.ms/u/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgbgngeuJT6zWysLhkg . Set it and forget it, I am running it on my frag tank and anemone tank which I don’t have t5 supplements and it’s perfect. Your tank is very nice by the way, I can’t wait to see it grow in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/22/2018, 05:21 PM | #5022 |
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Join Date: Aug 2017
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Nice thanks!!!!! Will give it a shot with 50% 30-60 day acclimation!
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01/24/2018, 02:30 PM | #5023 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 419
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OK after reading about 15 pages or so I have yet to see what im looking for with my setup, so question time.
Full sps 20g Nuvo peninsula ( 30Lx12Wx13t ) so 11.5" of water or so. 1 hydra 52 HD Figured fixture 10" or 12"above the water Settings: of course tweak for viewable pleasure ever so slightly. Blues 40% UV's 40% Whites 10-20% red and green 5% or less 12 hour cycle 4 hour ramp up starting at 10am. 4 hour ramp down with the lighting off at 10pm Then 3% max RB the rest of the night with Lunar on for moonlights What do the creditable people think
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People that have a pest free tank just didn't have the proper food "coral" for their pest QUARINTINE / DIP EVERYTHING Gotta love the Dwarf Angels Current Tank Info: Peninsula, Hydra52 Full SPS, New Build Thread( NanoNest) |
01/24/2018, 02:48 PM | #5024 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Punta Gorda, FL
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AI Hydra Settings Thread
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Yikes I would honestly see if you can rent or borrow a PAR meter from your lfs. That is not a lot of water for a 52HD and I would want to make sure I was hitting and not exceeding 250-300 PAR for a full sps system. From my experience in shallow water just a few percentage points difference in settings can change PAR readings by 50+ with the 52HD. More then 6” down the effect is mellowed but in the top 6” depending on your surface agitation you can get some serious hot-spotting. Also, I would do 1 hr ramps and a 7hr peak daylight period as outlined in world wide corals coral lab study. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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01/25/2018, 05:32 AM | #5025 |
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Hi Orcus,
Currently have a reefer 425XL with 2 26HDs mounted 10'' above the water. What setting would you recommend for an SPS Dominant tank, with LPS on the lower levels? The one drive link above contains no data Thanks in advance |
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