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Unread 03/23/2013, 05:03 PM   #26
Eastamherstbias
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Unread 03/25/2013, 06:03 PM   #27
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Well next time you get the PAR meter just measure from the end of the tank and the middle of the tank


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Unread 03/25/2013, 06:14 PM   #28
Eastamherstbias
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Who knows, I may change where I get the par numbers from when the next radion comes out. But I am guessing it will be a while. I picked those spots because it gives you a starting point and shows true intensity of the system. It is a static spot across all of the light systems I have used a PAR meter on over the years. Also I am not a lab so some areas that you want are blocked by corals and rock.


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Unread 03/25/2013, 08:58 PM   #29
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My sand is also black so people with white sand will get some added par on the bounce back which I don't get.


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Unread 03/26/2013, 08:34 PM   #30
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This is a great thread thanks for all the information....now all we need is a Graph sharing and we will all be completely happy....


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Unread 03/27/2013, 09:15 PM   #31
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I think that is coming in the near future?


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Unread 03/29/2013, 03:39 PM   #32
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This is amazing Austin.


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Unread 03/29/2013, 04:34 PM   #33
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This is fantastic thanks so much! Great information


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Unread 03/29/2013, 10:10 PM   #34
Eastamherstbias
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Thank you. I tried to make it easy to read and helpful.


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Unread 04/05/2013, 05:08 PM   #35
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Update, my monti cap does appear to be darkening on the Pro side of the tank.


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Unread 04/05/2013, 05:58 PM   #36
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Out of curiosity, are these figures corrected or just the raw readings?


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Unread 04/05/2013, 06:16 PM   #37
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They are the real correct numbers.


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Unread 04/05/2013, 06:28 PM   #38
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Meaning you corrected with the Apogee correction table? Assuming you used the Apogee MQ-200....

How did you do the correction at 12k considering the spectral errors are corrected at each individual wavelength?


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Unread 04/05/2013, 07:39 PM   #39
Eastamherstbias
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Yes, I have seen that chart and my numbers are corrected based on that but I am not a lab. All of my numbers have been taken by the same PAR meter over the past few years and goal is to help people make decision about coral placement and the different fixtures intensities.
~Austin


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Unread 04/06/2013, 05:31 AM   #40
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Understood Austin. I'm only asking out of curiosity, not being a jerk. (Apologies if it came off that way).


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Unread 04/06/2013, 11:42 AM   #41
Eastamherstbias
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It is ok, no offense was taken. How do you like your pro?


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Unread 04/07/2013, 07:38 AM   #42
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TBH, it's the BEST improvement I've ever made on my tank. Hands down....


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Unread 04/07/2013, 10:05 AM   #43
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Check out this video on it
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ob1PYQ9buKY?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


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Unread 04/07/2013, 10:48 AM   #44
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In that review he says that he recommends running the Generation 1 models (without TIR lenses) on a 90g tank at 60-70% tops. He then says if he still had that tank he would dial it down to 45-50% max. On his 375 tank with 4 Radion Pros he runs them at 20%, saying maybe he would go up to 30%.

That seems very counter-intuitive to me. Do you mean to tell me that even on the oldest models, you should not run them at full blast for any point in the day? What's the point of upgrading to the improved models, then?


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Unread 04/07/2013, 03:08 PM   #45
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Yeah I know and I agree I run mine at 100 and see no problems with it


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Unread 04/07/2013, 04:42 PM   #46
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I think it depends on your programming. If you're running the *hi growth* program, I could see how you wouldn't want to run at full blast. On the other hand, if you're running a progressive ramp why wouldn't you want it to hit 80% or > at some point? It's only for a VERY brief period of time...


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Unread 04/07/2013, 05:34 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Virtuoso View Post
In that review he says that he recommends running the Generation 1 models (without TIR lenses) on a 90g tank at 60-70% tops. He then says if he still had that tank he would dial it down to 45-50% max. On his 375 tank with 4 Radion Pros he runs them at 20%, saying maybe he would go up to 30%.

That seems very counter-intuitive to me. Do you mean to tell me that even on the oldest models, you should not run them at full blast for any point in the day? What's the point of upgrading to the improved models, then?
it really depends on how your corals can take the high intensity .

I have Gen 1 with TIR so i lowered down to 25% peak as the corals have browned out due to the high intensity .

LEDs are very different compared to T5 and mh


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Unread 04/07/2013, 07:17 PM   #48
trueblackpercula
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Ok I have questions

How do you know you sps are getting to much light from the LEDs ?

How do you know if you sps are not getting enough light from LEDs

I may have missed on echothech web sight but I don't see any mention of lowering the intensity of there fixture when first installed over a tank

I have been running this Graph and I don't see any real improvement in color other then my blue stag getting lighter and my strawberry short cake is no Lon ger green with red tips its just pink looking . I was thinking that the LEDs were not enough what do you guys and gals think?


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Life is to short to buy frags ! But for FREE I'LL take them
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Current Tank Info: 120 CUBE Live sand Mitras lx6100hv MRC MR 2 single becket MP40 power head Aquamedic dosing pump using B-ionic
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Unread 04/07/2013, 07:18 PM   #49
trueblackpercula
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Here is a picture of my graph


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Life is to short to buy frags ! But for FREE I'LL take them
><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>
·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. >((((º>
LIVE SAND ITS THE CURE........®

Current Tank Info: 120 CUBE Live sand Mitras lx6100hv MRC MR 2 single becket MP40 power head Aquamedic dosing pump using B-ionic
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Unread 04/07/2013, 07:31 PM   #50
Eastamherstbias
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trueblackpercula View Post
Ok I have questions

How do you know you sps are getting to much light from the LEDs ?

How do you know if you sps are not getting enough light from LEDs

I may have missed on echothech web sight but I don't see any mention of lowering the intensity of there fixture when first installed over a tank

I have been running this Graph and I don't see any real improvement in color other then my blue stag getting lighter and my strawberry short cake is no Lon ger green with red tips its just pink looking . I was thinking that the LEDs were not enough what do you guys and gals think?
I think you have too much light. All of my corals suffered when I kept a high profile thinking it would cause high growth and color. Sps colors slightly bleached, my anemones weren't red but pink. I backed it down and now everything is darker and growth is back on track. LEDS are more than enough power for Sps.

Here is my current plan that I have had for the last 7 months.




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