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Unread 02/01/2013, 02:02 PM   #26
TropTrea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccorry View Post
They do.... but it looks like I'll only need two since the heat sink seems so efficient.
Actually... I'd probably not need any if I wasn't planning on putting a canopy over it.
If I recall correctly your running your LED at a max of 700ma. That basicly puts then in the 2 Watt range. 16" square inches of surface area is more than enough to keep each of these cool without any circulation at all. If I recall corectly the 6" wide heat sinks offer over 30 square inches of cooling surface per inch of lenght. So with a 72" long strip you can probably run 130 LED's without fans. But if you ran the 5 watt 1500ma LED's the number would be droped down drasticly without fans closer to 40 LED's.

This is calculated without fans. If your putting in one fan per foot of lenght your limit goes up drasticly dependent upon the flow rate of the fans.


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Dennis B.

Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 02/01/2013, 02:08 PM   #27
zakstrong
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the lights look beautiful. If i were you i would reconsider your return pump and overflow. from the looks of the lights you are very handy so drilling the 125 should be an issue. The HOB is a pain to have to clean and monitor. a drilled overflow will look cleaner and you will be a lot happier. the mag drive pump is loud. you can get much better pumps with the same flow. I always recommend eheims. they are trusted, quiet and efficient


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Unread 02/01/2013, 02:09 PM   #28
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*shouldNT be and issue


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Unread 02/01/2013, 02:57 PM   #29
mccorry
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Originally Posted by knight2255 View Post
Very nice build!

Where did you get these connectors(led out, dim fan)?

Radio Shack, actually. 15-pin soldered D-Sub connectors.
I printed the labels using our Brother labeler.


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Unread 02/02/2013, 02:05 PM   #30
steve731
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looks great I plan on using a Makersled heatsink and was wondering what is the distance between the screw slots for mounting the led's to.
Thanks
Steve


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Unread 02/02/2013, 09:51 PM   #31
MrReef101
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One word......WOW


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Unread 02/03/2013, 09:09 AM   #32
mccorry
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zakstrong, I've never drilled a tank before. I know I could build and pipe it, but the drilling of the glass really intimidates me. Plus... I don't have the tools (bit) to do that type of work.

Here are just some updated pictures....

Tanks everywhere! I really need to start consolidating some of my projects...


Dimmer box finished up


All LED's are lit! I've got a little problem with my Sunrise / Sunset controller I need to figure out. Channel 3 which controls my Ocean Whites and Violets/UV's keeps Overloading at any voltage setting over 5.7 Volts. Not sure why as of yet....


Mounting Components in stand


Stand in place


Mocking up sump for baffle placement



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Unread 02/03/2013, 09:09 AM   #33
mccorry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve731 View Post
looks great I plan on using a Makersled heatsink and was wondering what is the distance between the screw slots for mounting the led's to.
Thanks
Steve
I'll try to get a measurement for you.


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Unread 02/03/2013, 11:16 AM   #34
mccorry
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Looks like the distance is 21/32" slot center to slot center.


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Unread 02/03/2013, 11:24 AM   #35
TropTrea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccorry View Post
zakstrong, I've got a little problem with my Sunrise / Sunset controller I need to figure out. Channel 3 which controls my Ocean Whites and Violets/UV's keeps Overloading at any voltage setting over 5.7 Volts. Not sure why as of yet...
It could be an issue with the controler or with the one of the drivers on the controler. From your pictures I'm assuming you have 5 drivers on 3 controler channels. If you have to drivers on this channel first try disconnecting tne of them to see if that help. Then try running with just the other driver. This will indicate if it is a driver issue. If it works with both drivers running alone but not with both then your current draw from the driver is totaling too much for the controler. You could start switching and trying to match a pair of drivers or you could add another controler channel.

Another option might be to run your blues at a set power level giving up the adjustability on them since they are realy a base line compared to the other colors which are more for pleasing austetics.


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Dennis B.

Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 02/03/2013, 04:32 PM   #36
sp0k
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nice update....looking good


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The great question... which I have not been able to answer... is, "What does a woman want?

Current Tank Info: in the works

Current Tank Info: 125g 40g sump..all in the making
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Unread 02/03/2013, 08:00 PM   #37
bigpuffer1
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very nice build. VERY sweet set up with the serial ports. do you do this type of work? or just pure diy? either way NICE!


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Unread 02/04/2013, 06:31 AM   #38
steve731
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Thanks for the info.
Steve


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Unread 02/04/2013, 10:23 AM   #39
mccorry
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Just pure DIY, bigpuffer. Thanks.


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Unread 02/04/2013, 11:07 AM   #40
Cymonous
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Are you putting on any kind of clear cover over your LEDs or are you leaving them open?


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100 Gallon Long with 20L sump
10 Gallon Office Tank

Current Tank Info: 2 False Percula Clowns, One Spot Foxface, Diamond Watchman Goby, Yellow Tail Damsel, Engineer Goby
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Unread 02/04/2013, 11:19 AM   #41
mccorry
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Clear lexan cover.


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Unread 02/04/2013, 11:51 AM   #42
TropTrea
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did you get anywhere fixing your sunset sunrise controler issue?


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Dennis B.

Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 02/04/2013, 11:59 AM   #43
mccorry
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Haven't gotten back to it, yet....


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Unread 02/06/2013, 08:06 PM   #44
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Got around to installing the bubble trap baffles in the sump....

Baffles are in....


Sump is ready....



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Unread 02/06/2013, 08:08 PM   #45
mccorry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TropTrea View Post
did you get anywhere fixing your sunset sunrise controler issue?
I've worked on it for two days. CH3 even gallops with no drivers installed, I've found. I think it might be a faulty DIM4 controller.

I've got an email in to Milad to see if they'll send me another one as an exchange.


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Unread 02/06/2013, 08:53 PM   #46
Nibrown9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccorry View Post
Got around to installing the bubble trap baffles in the sump....

Baffles are in....


Sump is ready....
Don't you want your return baffle higher so you don't run the risk of filling the tank with micro bubbles if your water level drops, granted that's what ATO is for but seems too close IMO


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Current Tank Info: 150g pinensula 40gb sump vertex in-280 back to mh from led
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Unread 02/07/2013, 12:13 AM   #47
project-roc
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I would keep an eye on the back of the couch for mold/mildew being so close to the moisture. Wife may not like the tank if it ruins the couch!


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Unread 02/07/2013, 09:41 AM   #48
kegogut
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What kind of Top is going on it? Canopy or open top?


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Dave.

"I have learned all kinds of things from my many mistakes. The one thing I never learn is to stop making them." --Nicomo Cosca.

Current Tank Info: 225 mixed w/ 225 sump 550 lbs live rock,3x MarinePure ceramic blocks,Skimz SM201,Geo 618 CR,Vectra L1,DOS automatic water changes,3x 250w MH w/ 4x actinic T5,All ran by Apex thru Fusion.--57 community tank w/ OR T-247,120 nem tank.
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Unread 02/12/2013, 02:46 PM   #49
smklaw
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I don't mean to go off topic but I am getting ready to do a build with the same basic components but I am having a hard time trying to figure out how to mount the units when done. I have a Clarity Plus quarter-round tank with 36" radius and typical acrylic hood.
Any advice would be great.


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Current Tank Info: 160 corner, 225 and currently planning/pricing 325-400
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Unread 02/12/2013, 10:21 PM   #50
mccorry
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Hey... finally got the sump re-configured. Ended up ripping all of it out and going with thicker 0.22" Acrylic due to the thin stuff bowing under the water pressure.
Much better now.

Here are some pictures....

Baffles reconfigured



Skimmer section with Skimmer in place....


Splash guard (still need to cut the 1" hole for the return line to pass through and the holes for the temp and pH probes)


Water test, finally!



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