plumbing dry fitted... please inspect for disaster potential

wantacookie · 08/16/2009, 08:50 PM

Thanks for looking.

Plumbing is finally dry fitted and would appreciate any input on any major errors I might have made.

Yet to be completed: The drain will extend down to just under the water level in the skimmer section. The smaller gate valve will eventually have plumbing extended to the fuge section. Just deciding on whether or not to use a spray bar.

MattShack · 08/16/2009, 08:56 PM

That tee is not plumbed in the best way. Pushing water through the branch of the tee will increase the head pressure 4x to 6x more than pushing water through the run, depending on your flow rate. It is much more efficient to push water through the run and use the branch to feed the other bulkhead.

It will work like you have it, you will just work the pump harder and lose a decent amount of flow.

uncleof6 · 08/16/2009, 09:02 PM

You mean other than you are running your return into a brick wall that will kill your flow? NO major flaws.

Jim

wantacookie · 08/16/2009, 09:02 PM

I'm really new to plumbing so let me make sure I am following you...

You're saying to make the piping shorter after the tee split instead of placing the tee so close to the gate valve and having two pipes go up?

uncleof6 · 08/16/2009, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MattShack
That tee is not plumbed in the best way. Pushing water through the branch of the tee will increase the head pressure 4x to 6x more than pushing water through the run, depending on your flow rate. It is much more efficient to push water through the run and use the branch to feed the other bulkhead.

It will work like you have it, you will just work the pump harder and lose a decent amount of flow.

Take a nap Matt...

wantacookie · 08/16/2009, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by uncleof6
You mean other than you are running your return into a brick wall that will kill your flow? NO major flaws.

Jim

Thanks! Any suggestions?

uncleof6 · 08/16/2009, 09:04 PM

Flow into the run of the tee not the branch, put a valve on the run higher up in the "run" to balance the flow in the branch ie plumb it the way you plumbed to the fuge...

wantacookie · 08/16/2009, 09:06 PM

I follow you, turn the tee.... I wasnt really sure what you meant with run and branch but I getcha.

MattShack · 08/16/2009, 09:07 PM

I'm awake now.

Yes, turn the tee. let the water flow straight through without hitting a dead end before going one way or the other.

wantacookie · 08/16/2009, 09:22 PM

Thanks guys. Much appreciated.

wantacookie · 08/16/2009, 09:56 PM

More like this?

uncleof6 · 08/16/2009, 10:16 PM

sure that will work.

J

customcolor · 08/16/2009, 11:33 PM

you may need to do a dorso on your drain from the tank instead of that 90 to let some air in or you will get a flush effect in your overflow box.

wantacookie · 08/16/2009, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by customcolor
you may need to do a dorso on your drain from the tank instead of that 90 to let some air in or you will get a flush effect in your overflow box.

there's a hole drilled for a piece of rigid tubing to slide in.

james3370 · 08/17/2009, 10:38 AM

another option on the return would be a tru wye....which would take the place of the 90 & 2 45 degree elbows in 1 fitting
http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cg...C-Wyes_TrueWye

i'd also suggest a ballvalve between the bulkhead elbows & unions on the returns (& overflow if ya want)....in case you need to seperate the tank & plumbing. otherwise you will have to drain the tank below the bulkheads 1st

der_wille_zur_macht · 08/17/2009, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by james3370
tank & plumbing.

Speaking of tanks and plumbing, can we see what's inside the tank on the other side of all three bulkheads?

customcolor · 08/17/2009, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by wantacookie
there's a hole drilled for a piece of rigid tubing to slide in.

is it a glass holes overflow??

wantacookie · 08/24/2009, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by customcolor
is it a glass holes overflow??

yep, it is a gl*******s overflow kit.

I've pulled the tank off the stand to fix the stand a little bit but here's a pic of the inside of the tank. while its on the floor. I know what I have done will lose some flow, but I had too much water above those bulkheads and not enough room in the sump. I was told in another thread to just snake some locline but I read on their website that locline is not watertight. That made me uneasy about it.

08/16/2009, 08:50 PM	#1
wantacookie Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 219	plumbing dry fitted... please inspect for disaster potential Thanks for looking. Plumbing is finally dry fitted and would appreciate any input on any major errors I might have made. Yet to be completed: The drain will extend down to just under the water level in the skimmer section. The smaller gate valve will eventually have plumbing extended to the fuge section. Just deciding on whether or not to use a spray bar.

08/16/2009, 08:56 PM	#2
MattShack Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ridgeland, MS Posts: 1,187	That tee is not plumbed in the best way. Pushing water through the branch of the tee will increase the head pressure 4x to 6x more than pushing water through the run, depending on your flow rate. It is much more efficient to push water through the run and use the branch to feed the other bulkhead. It will work like you have it, you will just work the pump harder and lose a decent amount of flow. __________________ Matt S Current Tank Info: 1000 gallon display - 500 gallon sump - 75 gallon fuge

08/16/2009, 09:02 PM	#3
uncleof6 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: AWOL Posts: 12,013	You mean other than you are running your return into a brick wall that will kill your flow? NO major flaws. Jim __________________ "Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef

08/16/2009, 09:02 PM	#4
wantacookie Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 219	I'm really new to plumbing so let me make sure I am following you... You're saying to make the piping shorter after the tee split instead of placing the tee so close to the gate valve and having two pipes go up? __________________ Current Tank Description 40b w/ DIY stand and DIY 29g sump/fuge

08/16/2009, 09:04 PM	#7
uncleof6 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: AWOL Posts: 12,013	Flow into the run of the tee not the branch, put a valve on the run higher up in the "run" to balance the flow in the branch ie plumb it the way you plumbed to the fuge... __________________ "Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef

08/16/2009, 09:06 PM	#8
wantacookie Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 219	I follow you, turn the tee.... I wasnt really sure what you meant with run and branch but I getcha. __________________ Current Tank Description 40b w/ DIY stand and DIY 29g sump/fuge

08/16/2009, 09:07 PM	#9
MattShack Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ridgeland, MS Posts: 1,187	I'm awake now. Yes, turn the tee. let the water flow straight through without hitting a dead end before going one way or the other. __________________ Matt S Current Tank Info: 1000 gallon display - 500 gallon sump - 75 gallon fuge

08/16/2009, 09:22 PM	#10
wantacookie Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 219	Thanks guys. Much appreciated. __________________ Current Tank Description 40b w/ DIY stand and DIY 29g sump/fuge

08/16/2009, 09:56 PM	#11
wantacookie Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 219	More like this? __________________ Current Tank Description 40b w/ DIY stand and DIY 29g sump/fuge

08/16/2009, 10:16 PM	#12
uncleof6 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: AWOL Posts: 12,013	sure that will work. J __________________ "Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef

08/16/2009, 11:33 PM	#13
customcolor Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: kaukauna, wi. Posts: 3,879	you may need to do a dorso on your drain from the tank instead of that 90 to let some air in or you will get a flush effect in your overflow box. __________________ PLEASE DONT USE GREAT STUFF (THE YELLOW STUFF) IN YOUR TANK........USE POND FOAM (THE BLACK STUFF).. I BEG YOU! Great stuff====$5 a can 24-48 hour cure Epoxy to cover it====little as $5 for small projects or up to $100+ for larger projects and another 24-48 hour cure I hope you covered it well cuz if you didnt it will start to break down in a few months sand is another added cost to cover up the yellow. Pond foams====$9-$15 a can 24-48 hour cure DONE! You can cover it with sand if you want to (YOU DONT HAVE TO) though but thats added cost again Current Tank Info: 75 gal under way

08/17/2009, 10:38 AM	#15
james3370 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: US ARMY - El Paso TX Posts: 3,678	another option on the return would be a tru wye....which would take the place of the 90 & 2 45 degree elbows in 1 fitting http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cg...C-Wyes_TrueWye i'd also suggest a ballvalve between the bulkhead elbows & unions on the returns (& overflow if ya want)....in case you need to seperate the tank & plumbing. otherwise you will have to drain the tank below the bulkheads 1st __________________ Yes I hear voices in my head, but they speak spanish so I can't understand anything they say. there's no place like 127.0.0.1 It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful.... Current Tank Info: currently tankless....but planning an AIO