Protein Skimmer Production/Improvements

[cheeks69]

Originally posted by Kenfuzed
No, unfortunately it only came with the one neck, and not sure if it is the long or short version. Still not sure what the "flow caps" are or where they are located.

Flow Taps are circled

[IanJ]

Just an update on the changes i made to my Aquamedic 5000 baby. Tried the finepore diffusers but they just did not work, the bubble were huge, dont know why, i tried several sizes.
Now i have 2 x size 3 sander limewood ones to compliment the needlewheel. I can not say just how much an improvement i have seen in my tank over the past few months. The front glass only needs a clean every few weeks or so. SPS growth has started again and colours have developed. Best of all is that the red hair algae that covered just about everything has all but gone

[IanJ]

Just an update on the changes i made to my Aquamedic 5000 baby. Tried the finepore diffusers but they just did not work, the bubble were huge, dont know why, i tried several sizes.
Now i have 2 x size 3 sander limewood ones to compliment the needlewheel. I can not say just how much an improvement i have seen in my tank over the past few months. The front glass only needs a clean every few weeks or so. SPS growth has started again and colours have developed. Best of all is that the red hair algae that covered just about everything has all but gone

[Anthony Calfo]

excellent to hear, Ian... thank you for sharing your feedback/perspective.

It has been the mantra of many of us: nutrient export is the key. Indeed, I have yet to see a nuisance algae growth in aquaria that could not be starved into submission via a skimmer in a matter of weeks for most, or a couple/few months at worst.

[unkleJ]

I usually run my skimmer (turboflotor) so that the top level of the bubble column is in the tapered tube in the collection cup, maybe 3" from the top of the tube - running like this, if you watch, the foam sort of builds up occasionally and spills over the top. This gives me dark skimmate, but not very much of it. Trying to adjust to skim any wetter is usually very sensitive at this point.

Something I noticed recently is that the bubbles, while very small in the skimmer body and at the bottom of the tapered tube in the collection cup is very small, they form much larger bubbles as they rise up in this tube in the collection cup - I don't have a lot of the really foamy stuff overflowing into the cup - more like mostly big bubbles that rise up to the top of the tube, pop, and the liquid from that bubble then trickles down the outside of the tube into the cup...

My skimmer runs HOB on my fuge at the moment - I'm going to build a new fuge/sump soon that will isolate the skimmer pump to a small chamber. I do get good water to the fuge/skimmer chamber, though, from a DIY HOB acrylic overflow (thanks to melev's website :-)). So, i think I could do a lot better as far as getting good water to the skimmer, but my setup is probably not the worst, either...

So, back to my real question, about the bubble size - is this large bubble size in the collection cup neck a problem ? Should I be looking to get more foam coming into the cup, and should I be looking at adjusting the amount of air available to the needlewheel to try to get this result? Any ideas?

What about the other turboflotor owners - does yours run like this? Thanks guys...

[spineshank385]

im setting up a 29g SPS reef with a 15g "bubbless" sump that houses my protein skimmer (coralife super skimmer, 65g type). THe sump does not have a seperate skimmer chamber, nor do i have room for a seperate bucket to dump the overflow water from the tank into before it goes into the sump.

Currently, the sump has about 300 gph running through it. Regarding the location of proteins, if i put a hefty pump or powerhead in the sump to keep lots of turbulence on the surface of the water, will this keep the protein suspended in the water column instead of at the water surface?

[Amphora]

unkleJ - The way your skimmer works sounds exactly like mine. At the moment I have the extender neck on the skimmer, the silencer on the air tube is removed, there is no valve on the air tube, the restrictor in the Ocean Runner pump is removed. One of the flow valves is in the full open position and the other is halfway closed. In this way, my skimmer operates similarly to your skimmer, i.e. the top level of the bubble column is in the upper sections of the riser tube. I too find that anything beyond this point is too sensitive and almost always results in overflowing. If I keep the bubble column any lower, then the skimmate is too thick and makes its way into the collection cup rarely, resulting in a spider web like bubble layer hanging around the top of the collection cup, refusing to go down.

I too observe that the bubbles get bigger when they move upwards into the riser tube. I realised after reading this thread and watching some videos of other successful skimmer applications, this should not be the case if I am not wrong. However, I am not sure how I can overcome this problem. I do not think there is any adjustment left that I can use. All things being constant I believe my last resort is to fiddle with the air setting: maybe I will add an air pump instead of letting the negative pressure in the venturi suck in air or try it with an air valve on the air tube to get smaller bubbles. However, I am not so sure with using an air valve, since in my experience restricting the airflow almost always results in overflowing.

unkleJ, sorry for not being of much help, but maybe through our negative experiences we can draw beneficial conclusions. Please do not hesitate to PM me if you need to discuss this further. I am keen to get to the bottom of this.

[unkleJ]

Amphora- yeah, sounds like we're set up in a similar way - I have a restrictor in the pump inlet that I made, less restriction than the stock restrictor. I left the silencer on the air inlet because I didn't want the extra noise without it. One of my flow control knobs is full open, the other is about 75% open. I also have the extender in to raise the cup.

I'm thinking the only thing I can really do is adjust air flow (remove the silencer, add an air pump, add an air valve) and then adjust the flow taps as neccessary to maintain level in the skimmer and see what impact increasing or decreasing the airflow makes....

Maybe it would be more productive to run an airline down the center of the collection cup neck, to a limewood air diffuser at the bottom of the skimmer body, and see what affect that has. Sounds like many people have been successful with this approach with various different skimmers.

I think I'll try both over the next few days...I'll be sure to post back here on my findings.

[sssquake]

I have a Pacific coast HO skimmer and I have tried using the Turbofloater needle wheel pump (not the skimmer just the needle wheel) before. I did many tweaking and the bubbles were always bigger than I expected and barely skim consistantly. After I read this thread, I decide to remove the needle wheel and just use a regular impellar with an 1/4 air hose attach to the intake with a SWAGELOK(sp ck) adjustable needle valve and see a very BIG improvement in bubble size (I mean super fine bubbles) and consistant skimming. I adjust the skimmer first by closing the valve, so no bubbles, to set the water level half way through the neck of the skimmer (this to prevent overflow), because I know the water level can never go above the skimmer. and just slowly open the valve. If I close the valve I do get a little overflow but it stops when all the air is out. It is really that simple for me. Personally I think the design of the needle wheel for turbofloater is not very good, imo.

[tgfrench]

unklej

Although I'm not running the same skimmer you mention. I found that once i decreased the air imput through the venturi. I don't get the large bubbles out of the top of the collection tube until the buildup of gunk within the collection cup riser tube neccesitates cleaning. I use a gate valve to control my internal water level in the skimmer, which I maintain within 1 inch of the base of the collection cup. Using this setup I'm pulling close to a gallon of coffee colored skimmate, a week, out of a 55 gallon tank.

As far as the conversation of the air pressure problem in the collection cup overflow tube, this problem can be solved by drilling a 1/4 in hole in the collection cup lid.

One consideration for those who have problems with their skimmers running wild, is what is happening prior to this event. I've found that, if I feed chopped silversides to my tank the fish oil drives my skimmer crazy.

[fullkontact]

I have searched to no avail. Can I get specific tips on improving my coralife super skimmer 125. It's a hang on back, drawing water from about 1" under. It has an air intake(venturi?) to draw air into the needle wheel. I'm not sure if I have room for a gate valve, It already has a valve on the return to adjust the water level. I don't have a sump, but do want to get the most out of this skimmer. (needle valve? wooden air stones?) thanks

[ItsMee]

I put in a MJ 1200 in my sump to mix up the supplements better and to keep my macro algae rolling. I noticed right after turning it on my skimmer stopped skimming...should I take it out, or should the skimmer adjust?

[cidory]

I have set up dual skimmers in my sump, not getting darl skimmate but light green, I suppose betwen socks and skimmers comepting for junk the darker stuff just isnt present. take a look at pic

[IMG][/IMG]

[10810]

Cidory, the one big difference I can notice between the skimmers is the difference in bubble size in the necks of the two skimmers. The one on the right seams to be working fine, not so with the one on the left, or did you clean out the skimmer on the left just before you took the pic and the foam/bubbles are still trying to stabilize?

[DonJasper]

Cleaning tip:

I've got a DIY setup - so forgive me if my terms are messed up. When I clean my collection cup assembly, I add a capful of bleach to a spray bottle filled with water. I then spritz this water over the assembly. Good as new, no recovery time, blah blah.

I started this first because I wanted to remove any fingerprints / skin oil I may have left from normal cleaning. Low and behold - all that I really need to do is spritz this bleach-water and rinse. And rinse. Just to prove how irrational human beings are, I now clean the assembly wearing latex gloves! Because I don't want to get beach-water on my hands repeatedly.

[unkleJ]

So i put a needle valve on the air line to the venturi on my Turboflotor skimmer...I wouldn't say that it's night and day, but there is definately an improvement in performance, and I think it's a lot easier to adjust using this needle valve rather than the outlet flow control valves that come on this skimmer...

I think it's definately a worthwhile modification for anyone with a skimmer that uses a needle wheel impeller.

I haven't tried adding an airstone yet, and haven't re-worked my sump either, been too busy.

I got the needle valve I used at work, it's similar to the speed control valves on this webpage ( http://www.pisco.com/category.aspx?catid=5 ), and has push-type tube connections.

[Bill Shultz]

Hey everybody,



I'm getting ready to modify my above pictured Euroreef ES8-1 skimmer which is fitted with a Sedra 5000 pump.

Some of the modifications I will be making are the following:
1. Improve outflow from the skimmer with a gate valve (same installation as illustrated by "JustOneMoreTank" on page 17 of the old thread)
2. Add a needle valve for precise tuning of the airflow entering the skimmer.


In addition to these two mods, my big question is whether or not I want to add a Kent venturi and just replace the needle wheel impeller that came with my pump with the standard impeller that is fitted on all new Sedra pumps.

Wouldn't replacing the needle wheel with the factory impeller boost the pump's output (at least back to the advertised 500gph) and thus increase the drawing power from the venturi? Is a needle wheel still desirable in the setup?

Thanks for your comments.

[cidory]

Originally posted by 10810
Cidory, the one big difference I can notice between the skimmers is the difference in bubble size in the necks of the two skimmers. The one on the right seams to be working fine, not so with the one on the left, or did you clean out the skimmer on the left just before you took the pic and the foam/bubbles are still trying to stabilize?

Ive been fighting this skimmer since i bought it, dialing it in is like dialing in a calcium reactor. Seems once a day it produces junk, meanwhile the Euro skimmer next to it is like the Energizer bunny , it just keeps going and going and going. If I had it to do over i would but another Euro-Reef and still may if things dont get better

[JustOneMoreTank]

Bill Shultz:
Good luck with the mods. I really think that you will notice some improvements in the skimmate production with the changes that you have mentioned. It might be interesting to try the modifications one at a time to attempt to gauge the changes that each one has.
The Gate Valve on the skimmers exiting water is fast and easy to accomplish as long as you have the space in the sump to do it. This will give you excellent control of the water height in the skimmer and is well worth the small amount of effort to finish.
Fine tuning the air into the pump with the needle valve is another easy tweak that you can perform and I believe that will help the skimmate production. So yes go for the needle valve.
As far as swapping out the Sedra's NW impeller for a standard impeller and using an improved Kent Venturi.... I am not sure. It is certainly worth a shot. I have never done that. Maybe Anthony Calfo or someone else on this thread has tried that swap. I understand that the regular impeller will be more efficient and move more GPH than the Needle wheel. However I dont know which setup (Sedra NW vs regular impeller with Kent Vent) will give you the better skimmate production.
Be sure to let us know if you try it and what you think.
Good luck.

[Kenfuzed]

Anyone using a smaller (than recommended) pump on their AquaC EV-180 skimmer? I recently set up a used EV180 as a secondary skimmer using a smaller pump to obtain dry skimmate. Unfortunately it has yet to produce any bubbles or foam in the tower after 2 days. Also wondering if anyone has a link to any threads about modifying the EV with a becket injector?

Glad to see this thread still going despite the forum's name change. This thread should be a must read for anyone who has ever had a problem with their skimmer (which is just about everyone).

[ajm-vfr]

Kenfuzed, I had difficulty getting the EV180 working with the AquaC recommendation of a MAG 7, and I have read a lot of posts where people have had the same problem. I sort of got my EV180 working with a mag9.5. I really don't know if a smaller pump would generate anything.

I was thinking about adding a becket injector to my EV180. but the EV180 has a 3/4 inch water input. I did a fast look to see if there where any small beckets available, but the ones I found where too large for the 3/4 inch line.

If I could find a small becket injector I would love to try it.

[Kenfuzed]

I'm going to open a new thread looking for the beckett mod to my EV-180. I'll post back if I find anything.

[melev]

My Aqua C EV-200 used a Mag 12 and worked great. I think a weaker pump will not produce the volume those injectors need to produce the bubbles you want.

[Awright]

Originally posted by Bill Shultz
Hey everybody,



I'm getting ready to modify my above pictured Euroreef ES8-1 skimmer which is fitted with a Sedra 5000 pump.

Some of the modifications I will be making are the following:
1. Improve outflow from the skimmer with a gate valve (same installation as illustrated by "JustOneMoreTank" on page 17 of the old thread)
2. Add a needle valve for precise tuning of the airflow entering the skimmer.


In addition to these two mods, my big question is whether or not I want to add a Kent venturi and just replace the needle wheel impeller that came with my pump with the standard impeller that is fitted on all new Sedra pumps.

Wouldn't replacing the needle wheel with the factory impeller boost the pump's output (at least back to the advertised 500gph) and thus increase the drawing power from the venturi? Is a needle wheel still desirable in the setup?

Thanks for your comments.

Bill,
That is what I did to mine CS8-2, I also added ozone with an Enealy ozonizer and an additional air pump to add more air volume. That to me was easier than adding another recirculating pump.
My biggest inmprovement was when I built a sump like Melev has on his webpage. Keeping the water level constant in the skimmer chamber really help tune in the skimmer. I also now have my additional air pump turned way way down, I could probably remove it all together but everything is staying in check. I have no sign of hair algea at all. Just my 2 cents.

[cidory]

Originally posted by cidory
Ive been fighting this skimmer since i bought it, dialing it in is like dialing in a calcium reactor. Seems once a day it produces junk, meanwhile the Euro skimmer next to it is like the Energizer bunny , it just keeps going and going and going. If I had it to do over i would but another Euro-Reef and still may if things dont get better

Finally I may be getting there

[IMG][/IMG]