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Unread 02/27/2015, 02:50 PM   #3151
wilkerschnepf
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I would think so too, maybe i will break out the multimeter and test what amperage two together are really using. I just hooked it up to see how loud this silent fan was, and i am pretty impressed, i had to hold my ear close enough that the fan hit my cheek before i could really hear it. Of course these china box leds are running and it makes it hard to hear anything in the house.


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Unread 02/27/2015, 07:28 PM   #3152
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Originally Posted by wilkerschnepf View Post
O2, did you ever post the files for the SCW-LDD adapter board? I just finished re-reading all 126 pages and that little adapter would help me get my fixture one step closer to complete.

Also i picked up some fans that claim to be 12V .08A, would you suggest running both from a single SCW05C-12 or should i step up to the 08, or run each fan from its own SCW for redundancy?
I'm posting the Gerber files for my SCW to LDD-H adapter PcB. I spent some time redesigning it a bit to make it easier to configure for different power needs. This version will allow the SCW to provide power output "full time" (assuming the SCW has power on it's input) or "part time" by triggering a transistor that takes the SCW negative output to ground. All that's needed to change it's behavior is blob of solder on the SMD jumper's solder pads. No solder= Full PWM or On/Off control using the PWM pin. Solder= "Full time" power.

This design is panelized to include two adapters per 45mm X 32mm PcB. Use the 50mm X 50mm size option when ordering and you'll get two adapters for the price of one. I recommend using Seeedstudios, since their PcB ordering system is very user friendly.http://www.seeedstudio.com/service/index.php?r=pcb





Attached Files
File Type: zip SCWtoLDD-H AdapterV2 Gerber files.zip (26.1 KB, 72 views)
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Unread 02/27/2015, 09:30 PM   #3153
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Awesome! Thanks again O2!


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Unread 03/02/2015, 08:04 AM   #3154
Krazie4Acans
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perkint View Post
Surely two fans at 0.08A is only 0.16A and well under what a single SCW05C-12 can give

Tim
You would think so but don't forget that the 0.08ma is the runtime rating and not the startup spike current. Then add two of them together on the same SCW and your probably pushing it a little for the 05. Yes that is a startup spike only but if you can't provide what the fan needs to start up then you don't have to worry about what it takes to run it because it won't run. Going with the 08 will cover the startup spike and during the running time will be much lower than the rated power so it will be nice and cool.

The 05 will probably work, but the 08 will work better and probably for a longer time.


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Unread 03/02/2015, 03:24 PM   #3155
wilkerschnepf
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Originally Posted by Krazie4Acans View Post
You would think so but don't forget that the 0.08ma is the runtime rating and not the startup spike current. Then add two of them together on the same SCW and your probably pushing it a little for the 05. Yes that is a startup spike only but if you can't provide what the fan needs to start up then you don't have to worry about what it takes to run it because it won't run. Going with the 08 will cover the startup spike and during the running time will be much lower than the rated power so it will be nice and cool.

The 05 will probably work, but the 08 will work better and probably for a longer time.
I had a chance to do a little test on the two fans. The .08A rating on the package was actually spot on. Both together pull .160-.170A



When first connected the highest in rush amperage i saw was .223A. It was hard to take a picture at the exact instance i connected the power but this was pretty close. I don't think my multimeter has a peak hold option.



I will still order the swc 08 version just in case the fans ever get changed in the future and these aren't available. Looks like mouser is the only place that has the 08 versions available right now.


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Unread 03/15/2015, 03:25 PM   #3156
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Question

I've been using a 10 LED strand (cree XT-Es) with a LDD-700HW for years now with no issues. I added a second LED strand today and now neither power up I tested all the LEDs with batteries and they all power up and all my connections are good so I fear I have somehow fried both LDDs. I have tried swapping the LDDs around and still nothing from either strand. No shorts or anything and I measure 48V across the input terminals and about 50mv across the output terminals of the LDD.

I'm using a 48V 1.8A PS and was using PWM but now for testing I have the PWM line unconnected and only powering the original strand of LEDS. Here is what I had wired originally (only 2 strands) but now I have the white line unconnected.

Any help would be appreciated, if I have somehow killed the LDDs I don't want to order more and kill those too!


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Unread 03/15/2015, 05:38 PM   #3157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamato View Post
I've been using a 10 LED strand (cree XT-Es) with a LDD-700HW for years now with no issues. I added a second LED strand today and now neither power up I tested all the LEDs with batteries and they all power up and all my connections are good so I fear I have somehow fried both LDDs. I have tried swapping the LDDs around and still nothing from either strand. No shorts or anything and I measure 48V across the input terminals and about 50mv across the output terminals of the LDD.

I'm using a 48V 1.8A PS and was using PWM but now for testing I have the PWM line unconnected and only powering the original strand of LEDS. Here is what I had wired originally (only 2 strands) but now I have the white line unconnected.

Any help would be appreciated, if I have somehow killed the LDDs I don't want to order more and kill those too!
If you have them mounted to an LDD board with pull-down resistors, the drivers shut off with no PWM input.


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Unread 03/15/2015, 06:26 PM   #3158
Hamato
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Originally Posted by jedimasterben View Post
If you have them mounted to an LDD board with pull-down resistors, the drivers shut off with no PWM input.
Nah they are just the wired versions. I basically wired the second LDD VIN +/- pins in series with the existing LDD and then connected the VOUT +/- contacts to the second string of LEDs.

Since my last post I tried a different power supply and connected them to only 1 LED to eliminate any variables but still no go. I'm probably going to go with the LDD boards to replace these but I really don't know how I killed 2 working LDDs Besides doing something really stupid like wiring them backwards what else can kill these things?


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Unread 03/15/2015, 08:52 PM   #3159
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LDD VIN should be in parallel. Both (+) of LDDs to PS (+). Both (-) of LDDs to PS (-).


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Unread 03/16/2015, 06:00 AM   #3160
Hamato
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Originally Posted by pwreef View Post
LDD VIN should be in parallel. Both (+) of LDDs to PS (+). Both (-) of LDDs to PS (-).
Yeah you are correct, I mistyped. They are in parallel, but for some reason I couldn't edit my post here.

Oh well hopefully I'll figure out the problem before the replacements arrive


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Unread 03/16/2015, 08:14 AM   #3161
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If you turned on the power to the LDD's without the LEDs hooked up then you probably fried them. They must have a load connected to the output when they are powered on or they burn up almost instantly. I would bet they are dead. Krazie


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Unread 03/23/2015, 01:19 PM   #3162
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Sorry for double posting this, but I'm trying to get this thing fired up and it's one of the last things I've got to do and after today, I'm busy with work again and won't be able to get to it for a while. I seen a couple of you are on line so I thought I'd put this in here too..

I'm totally brain farting. I built my controller based on the Jarduino sketch. All my strings are running on LDD boards but 1 of my LED strings are hooked onto a HLG-185H-42B and one to a HLG-185H-36B. Those are the ones I'm screwed up on.
The LED's are in series hooked onto the V- and V+
For the life of me I'm second guessing where the Dim+ and Dim- wires go. I thought the Dim+ went to my PWM control pin on the Arduino but nothing comes to mind for the Dim-. Does it get hooked to the ground plane of the Arduino board?

ARGH! I think I'm losing my mind...


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Unread 03/23/2015, 01:28 PM   #3163
jedimasterben
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Common ground, so on your power supply.

Also, the HLG are 10v, not 5v, so you'll need to convert the output from the Arduino.


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Unread 03/23/2015, 02:01 PM   #3164
Krazie4Acans
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Yup, What ^^ he said.


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Unread 03/23/2015, 03:06 PM   #3165
daplatapus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimasterben View Post
Also, the HLG are 10v, not 5v, so you'll need to convert the output from the Arduino.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazie4Acans View Post
Yup, What ^^ he said.
Thanks guys!

Will it work at all on 5V or will it just not run at full power? I also read somewhere that the PWM on an Arduino runs from 0-255 or off to 100% but some Meanwells are backwards? So off is 255 or 0% and full on 100% is 0. Does that make sense?
Hmmm, now I have to figure that out, lol. Sometimes the internet is the enemy of useful knowledge... so much seemingly contradictory info if you don't have a working knowledge of something


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Unread 03/23/2015, 04:55 PM   #3166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2Surplus View Post
I'm posting the Gerber files for my SCW to LDD-H adapter PcB. I spent some time redesigning it a bit to make it easier to configure for different power needs. This version will allow the SCW to provide power output "full time" (assuming the SCW has power on it's input) or "part time" by triggering a transistor that takes the SCW negative output to ground. All that's needed to change it's behavior is blob of solder on the SMD jumper's solder pads. No solder= Full PWM or On/Off control using the PWM pin. Solder= "Full time" power.

This design is panelized to include two adapters per 45mm X 32mm PcB. Use the 50mm X 50mm size option when ordering and you'll get two adapters for the price of one. I recommend using Seeedstudios, since their PcB ordering system is very user friendly.http://www.seeedstudio.com/service/index.php?r=pcb


Does this allow PWM fan control when using the fans connected to the SCW with a compatible controller?


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Unread 03/23/2015, 05:25 PM   #3167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daplatapus View Post
Sorry for double posting this, but I'm trying to get this thing fired up and it's one of the last things I've got to do and after today, I'm busy with work again and won't be able to get to it for a while. I seen a couple of you are on line so I thought I'd put this in here too..

I'm totally brain farting. I built my controller based on the Jarduino sketch. All my strings are running on LDD boards but 1 of my LED strings are hooked onto a HLG-185H-42B and one to a HLG-185H-36B. Those are the ones I'm screwed up on.
The LED's are in series hooked onto the V- and V+
For the life of me I'm second guessing where the Dim+ and Dim- wires go. I thought the Dim+ went to my PWM control pin on the Arduino but nothing comes to mind for the Dim-. Does it get hooked to the ground plane of the Arduino board?

ARGH! I think I'm losing my mind...
Just to be clear are the two strings on the HLG drivers also running off of LDD drivers? If so the Dim+ and Dim- are left un-used and just capped off.

Otherwise if using the HLG to run and dim the strings (No LDD drivers on those two) then as others said you will need to convert the arduino 5v pwm into a 0-10v PWM signal.


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Unread 03/23/2015, 09:05 PM   #3168
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Originally Posted by daplatapus View Post
Thanks guys!

Will it work at all on 5V or will it just not run at full power? I also read somewhere that the PWM on an Arduino runs from 0-255 or off to 100% but some Meanwells are backwards? So off is 255 or 0% and full on 100% is 0. Does that make sense?
Hmmm, now I have to figure that out, lol. Sometimes the internet is the enemy of useful knowledge... so much seemingly contradictory info if you don't have a working knowledge of something
Hmm might as well throw my 2 cents into this..
AFAICT Meanwells aren't "backwards" Drivers like buckpucks are backwards.. 10-0V dimming..

Yes you have 0-10V or 10V PWM
You need to do like the Typhon (but maybe better..)
You need to convert the 5V PWM to 10V PWM.
@5V it will either not work or just go to 50% at 100% duty cycle..


http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/th...10v-pwm.69870/
OR convert the 5V PWM to 0-10V out..

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/21811...=arduino+0-10v
your mixing of dimming types (and drivers) is a bit problematic..
O2 may have some conversion boards laying around to stick on the 5V pins you want to use for the 2 oddball (in the LDD sense) drivers..
OR just update your power supply and drivers to match..

NOTE: Ideas of "concept" not actual use...



Last edited by oreo57; 03/23/2015 at 09:35 PM.
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Unread 03/23/2015, 09:44 PM   #3169
O2Surplus
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Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Does this allow PWM fan control when using the fans connected to the SCW with a compatible controller?


Yep!
Just make sure the controller's PWM frequency is 25khz or so to eliminate that annoying buzzing noise that comes with using PWM on conventional cooling fans.


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Unread 03/23/2015, 09:57 PM   #3170
daplatapus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachts View Post
Just to be clear are the two strings on the HLG drivers also running off of LDD drivers? If so the Dim+ and Dim- are left un-used and just capped off.

Otherwise if using the HLG to run and dim the strings (No LDD drivers on those two) then as others said you will need to convert the arduino 5v pwm into a 0-10v PWM signal.
No, the HLG drivers are the only ones driving the 2 strings. What I've done is I've got my Exotic TV, XT-E RB's, Exotic OCW's, XT-E moon lights and XT-E NW's all running off of LDD 700's and 1000's.
But another set of NW and CW I got XM-L's that run at a fV of 3.35 @ 3000mA so I went with the HLG's to drive them. With all I got going on, that might be total overkill and only being able to run them at 50% may not be a bad thing IF that will work. My tank is a 210 - so 30" deep and I was originally worried I might not have enough punch to get to the bottom with the XT-E's on the 3up stars.


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Originally Posted by oreo57 View Post
Hmm might as well throw my 2 cents into this..
AFAICT Meanwells aren't "backwards" Drivers like buckpucks are backwards.. 10-0V dimming..
Ok, good!


Quote:
Originally Posted by oreo57 View Post
Yes you have 0-10V or 10V PWM
You need to do like the Typhon (but maybe better..)
You need to convert the 5V PWM to 10V PWM.
@5V it will either not work or just go to 50% at 100% duty cycle..
As long as I don't fry anything, I don't mind hooking it up with the Dim- to the common ground and finding out

Quote:
Originally Posted by oreo57 View Post

your mixing of dimming types (and drivers) is a bit problematic..
O2 may have some conversion boards laying around to stick on the 5V pins you want to use for the 2 oddball (in the LDD sense) drivers..
OR just update your power supply and drivers to match..

NOTE: Ideas of "concept" not actual use...
I'm beginning to see that, lol. Thanks for those wiring schematics, I'll try and make sense of what's going on there.

O2, I'll PM ya just in case this misses ya, but have you made some conversion boards that you have extra of? I am using your boards already for my LDD drivers that I got made when I first started this project back a couple years a go I think it was.

Thanks guys for the help, I REALLY appreciate it.


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Unread 03/23/2015, 10:16 PM   #3171
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No, the HLG drivers are the only ones driving the 2 strings. What I've done is I've got my Exotic TV, XT-E RB's, Exotic OCW's, XT-E moon lights and XT-E NW's all running off of LDD 700's and 1000's.
But another set of NW and CW I got XM-L's that run at a fV of 3.35 @ 3000mA so I went with the HLG's to drive them. With all I got going on, that might be total overkill and only being able to run them at 50% may not be a bad thing IF that will work. My tank is a 210 - so 30" deep and I was originally worried I might not have enough punch to get to the bottom with the XT-E's on the 3up stars.




Ok, good!




As long as I don't fry anything, I don't mind hooking it up with the Dim- to the common ground and finding out



I'm beginning to see that, lol. Thanks for those wiring schematics, I'll try and make sense of what's going on there.

O2, I'll PM ya just in case this misses ya, but have you made some conversion boards that you have extra of? I am using your boards already for my LDD drivers that I got made when I first started this project back a couple years a go I think it was.

Thanks guys for the help, I REALLY appreciate it.
One small warning , many Meanwells really don't like MORE than 10V on that 10V line..

another fun way is to just hook a 9V battery to the 10V line.. NO shared grounds w/ that and full on.. well 9V on..


Hmm a small lithium button cell could run at 40% for a long time I believe

Just for fun..again don't ground the battery to anything..
Manual on/off of course.. A 5V ps hooked directy to the dim circuit on a timer would give you 50% as well
There are numerous ways to bypass the Adruino w/ those 2 drivers..
A commercial converter:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...g&gclsrc=aw.ds





Last edited by oreo57; 03/23/2015 at 10:23 PM.
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Unread 03/24/2015, 02:53 PM   #3172
daplatapus
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Thanks guys
I've ordered up one of Coralux's converter's.


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Unread 03/24/2015, 03:17 PM   #3173
oreo57
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Originally Posted by daplatapus View Post
Thanks guys
I've ordered up one of Coralux's converter's.
doesn't that convert ALL your 5v PWM???
i thought you needed a few for some LDD's to stay "native" 5V PWM

Out of curiosity did you pick 10V analog or 10V PWM?


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Unread 03/24/2015, 04:58 PM   #3174
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If I plug the terminal strip straight into the Arduino board, yea, it will convert all, but I'll just mount it somewhere in my project box and run jumpers to the 2 PWM pins on the board to the converter.
I ended up getting the 10V PWM - for some reason I thought I remember reading way back when that PWM is the only way I'll get it to dim to 0. Although I'll only have them coming on for 3-4 hours a day max, so for these 2 strings dimming to 0 isn't as big a deal as say the RB's.


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Unread 03/24/2015, 06:06 PM   #3175
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Originally Posted by daplatapus View Post
If I plug the terminal strip straight into the Arduino board, yea, it will convert all, but I'll just mount it somewhere in my project box and run jumpers to the 2 PWM pins on the board to the converter.
I ended up getting the 10V PWM - for some reason I thought I remember reading way back when that PWM is the only way I'll get it to dim to 0. Although I'll only have them coming on for 3-4 hours a day max, so for these 2 strings dimming to 0 isn't as big a deal as say the RB's.
My "doh"...
and thanks, I didn't know they had that board..


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