AI Hydra Settings Thread

[rwc2002]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

Someone deleted the files so here is the updated link! https://1drv.ms/f/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgZdidaM1bosnUqv21g


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I have a jbj 45 rl tank been setup for close to a year now, but just recently switched over the the hydra26hd lights from the maxspect razors. I'm running 2 of the 26, 12 inches off the waterline do you have any recommendations on what a good profile to run would be. I run a mixed a reef lps in lower to mid, then some sps from mid to upper. I've been using the saxby lower power settings in acclimation mode and look pretty good but a little white for me I like the more blue look. I've loaded up your sps ab+ lower power with peaks and added 30 percent acclimation mode for now, looks pretty good to me spectrum wise, just don't wanna bleach or fry my corals. Tank dimensions are 26.5" x 21" x 19" any help would be greatly appreciated, from reading through here you seem to be pretty experienced with these lights.

[splix]

Please someone give me some guidance, I'm driving myself crazy toying with the lights haha. A few of my orange/rainbow BTA's are now turning brown. Tank is a Red Sea E260 with 2x Hydra 26HDs. BTA dominated up top, leathers in the middle, zoas on the bottom. I just want to make sure the BTA's have enough light that they're not turning brown, but not bleach them at the same time.

Here are the settings that I've landed on tonight
UV: 75
V: 75
RB: 75
B: 75
G: 10
R: 3
CW: 20


I was running my UV and V way down around 40% previously which I believe has started to brown my BTA's. The blues were at 80% with CW around 12%. Colors were popping very well but I dont think they were getting enough overall PAR/PUR.
You can see the left side BTA's are overall brown. All the roses have been recently added in the last 2 weeks so they're still bright. The guy I got them from was running his Atlantik LED's at 100% all channels, some of them are a little bleached but they are super bright.

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by splix

Please someone give me some guidance, I'm driving myself crazy toying with the lights haha. A few of my orange/rainbow BTA's are now turning brown. Tank is a Red Sea E260 with 2x Hydra 26HDs. BTA dominated up top, leathers in the middle, zoas on the bottom. I just want to make sure the BTA's have enough light that they're not turning brown, but not bleach them at the same time.

Here are the settings that I've landed on tonight
UV: 75
V: 75
RB: 75
B: 75
G: 10
R: 3
CW: 20


I was running my UV and V way down around 40% previously which I believe has started to brown my BTA's. The blues were at 80% with CW around 12%. Colors were popping very well but I dont think they were getting enough overall PAR/PUR.
You can see the left side BTA's are overall brown. All the roses have been recently added in the last 2 weeks so they're still bright. The guy I got them from was running his Atlantik LED's at 100% all channels, some of them are a little bleached but they are super bright.

Use my sps AB+ settings your nems will love the extra par. Should blanket them in a solid 250-300 par.


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[splix]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

Use my sps AB+ settings your nems will love the extra par. Should blanket them in a solid 250-300 par.


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With 200 pages to comb through, can you link it?

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by rwc2002

I have a jbj 45 rl tank been setup for close to a year now, but just recently switched over the the hydra26hd lights from the maxspect razors. I'm running 2 of the 26, 12 inches off the waterline do you have any recommendations on what a good profile to run would be. I run a mixed a reef lps in lower to mid, then some sps from mid to upper. I've been using the saxby lower power settings in acclimation mode and look pretty good but a little white for me I like the more blue look. I've loaded up your sps ab+ lower power with peaks and added 30 percent acclimation mode for now, looks pretty good to me spectrum wise, just don't wanna bleach or fry my corals. Tank dimensions are 26.5" x 21" x 19" any help would be greatly appreciated, from reading through here you seem to be pretty experienced with these lights.

I would say that low power setting should be perfect for the corals you are trying to grow. If you notice your acros are not coloring up after about 3 months at those settings bump up to my full power no peak profile over a 2-3 month slow acclimation.


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[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by splix

With 200 pages to comb through, can you link it?

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgbdH9HzbV8Ugy1aUyA



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[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by ace6090

Thanks for the help. I am certainly glad to hear I am not the only one who has issues. I am always amazed by the help and support of the reefing community. I plan to drop my dKH to 7 and see what the results are. Since I dose Alk I am going to have to wait a few days for it to drop naturally. However, I will test daily until it reaches the desired level.

Anytime just glad to help. Let me know how it turns out and if your acros rebound.


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[rwc2002]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

I would say that low power setting should be perfect for the corals you are trying to grow. If you notice your acros are not coloring up after about 3 months at those settings bump up to my full power no peak profile over a 2-3 month slow acclimation.


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Thanks for the settings and advice

[ace6090]

Orcus, what T5's and schedule do you run?

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[splix]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgbdH9HzbV8Ugy1aUyA



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Thank you so much for the help and validation. Your settings are pretty much exactly like mine. I'm going to leave them alone for awhile.
This stupid UV channel has me confused. Everyone on the facebook group says drop UV to almost nothing, but all the documentation for the HD's says keep it up with the rest of the channels.

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by splix

Thank you so much for the help and validation. Your settings are pretty much exactly like mine. I'm going to leave them alone for awhile.

This stupid UV channel has me confused. Everyone on the facebook group says drop UV to almost nothing, but all the documentation for the HD's says keep it up with the rest of the channels.

Dropping the uv diode always makes me laugh. 250 watt Metal halides put out about 100 times more uv radiation then the lonely near uv diode in the AI pucks.


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[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by ace6090

Orcus, what T5's and schedule do you run?

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I currently run my AB+ with t5ho schedule with no peaks on my hydra 52hd on a 24x24 cube. I currently supplement with 1 actinic and 1 Tropic t5. And am in the process of adding 1 more Tropic and actinic.


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[ace6090]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

I currently run my AB+ with t5ho schedule with no peaks on my hydra 52hd on a 24x24 cube. I currently supplement with 1 actinic and 1 Tropic t5. And am in the process of adding 1 more Tropic and actinic.


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How long are your T5's on? When do they go on and off?

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[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by ace6090

How long are your T5's on? When do they go on and off?

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[dz6t]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

I’m with @rishma nutrients cause algae not light imo. I think the red and green channels are essential for proper chromatoprotien formation and zooxanthella health. Most of our corals are from less then 20’ of water. As such they get plenty of this wavelength light in their natural environment.

Agree, algae growth has little to do with light.
The red and green channels are already covered by the white led. Take a look at the published spectrum plot and you can see.
Red and green are more for marketing.
Also they are low power so they don’t do much at all.


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[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by dz6t

Agree, algae growth has little to do with light.
The red and green channels are already covered by the white led. Take a look at the published spectrum plot and you can see.
Red and green are more for marketing.
Also they are low power so they don’t do much at all.


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Agreed they are of little significance. I more appreciate what they do for the visual appearance of the tank by warming up the color temp of the display without the par increases boosting the cool white diodes has.


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[Orcus Varuna]

Here is the updated link to the settings, someone accidentally deleted the folder AGAIN... lol https://1drv.ms/f/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgZdidaM1bosnUqv21g


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[Papermonkeys]

Quick question,
I'm currently rocking a center mounted hydra 26HD on my Reefer 250. I finally purchased a 2nd one. Should I dial down the settings when I install the second one, or just keep them the same? I'm running Orcus Varuna's AB+ Low power currently. I have a decently large anemone I don't want to bleach.

Thanks in advance!

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Papermonkeys

Quick question,
I'm currently rocking a center mounted hydra 26HD on my Reefer 250. I finally purchased a 2nd one. Should I dial down the settings when I install the second one, or just keep them the same? I'm running Orcus Varuna's AB+ Low power currently. I have a decently large anemone I don't want to bleach.

Thanks in advance!

Since you effectively doubled the light output I would set both lights at 50% acclimation for 30-60 days. Eventually though you will want to move over to the full power schedule on both lights especially with nems. I’m running my low power on a hydra52hd with 48 watts of t5ho supplements on a 50 gallon cube and get 200-300 par throughout the tank. You with 4 pucks on a 66 gallon tank running just the low power schedule will not have many locations in the tank receiving more then 150 par.


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[Papermonkeys]

Hey,

Thanks for the pointers! Do you suggest I just switch to the high power version now? The difference was the red/green/white channels had more power right? Light came in last week but they sent the wrong mount so I should have it set up in the next day or 2.

Here is a recentish picture of the tank if it helps:


Thanks again for the profiles and the support!

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Papermonkeys

Hey,

Thanks for the pointers! Do you suggest I just switch to the high power version now? The difference was the red/green/white channels had more power right? Light came in last week but they sent the wrong mount so I should have it set up in the next day or 2.

Here is a recentish picture of the tank if it helps:


Thanks again for the profiles and the support!

I would run this schedule https://1drv.ms/u/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgbgngeuJT6zWysLhkg . Set it and forget it, I am running it on my frag tank and anemone tank which I don’t have t5 supplements and it’s perfect. Your tank is very nice by the way, I can’t wait to see it grow in.


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[Papermonkeys]

Nice thanks!!!!! Will give it a shot with 50% 30-60 day acclimation!

[Jfannin]

OK after reading about 15 pages or so I have yet to see what im looking for with my setup, so question time.

Full sps
20g Nuvo peninsula ( 30Lx12Wx13t ) so 11.5" of water or so.
1 hydra 52 HD

Figured fixture 10" or 12"above the water

Settings: of course tweak for viewable pleasure ever so slightly.
Blues 40%
UV's 40%
Whites 10-20%
red and green 5% or less

12 hour cycle
4 hour ramp up starting at 10am.
4 hour ramp down with the lighting off at 10pm
Then 3% max RB the rest of the night with Lunar on for moonlights

What do the creditable people think

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Jfannin

OK after reading about 15 pages or so I have yet to see what im looking for with my setup, so question time.



Full sps

20g Nuvo peninsula ( 30Lx12Wx13t ) so 11.5" of water or so.

1 hydra 52 HD



Figured fixture 10" or 12"above the water



Settings: of course tweak for viewable pleasure ever so slightly.

Blues 40%

UV's 40%

Whites 10-20%

red and green 5% or less



12 hour cycle

4 hour ramp up starting at 10am.

4 hour ramp down with the lighting off at 10pm

Then 3% max RB the rest of the night with Lunar on for moonlights



What do the creditable people think

Yikes I would honestly see if you can rent or borrow a PAR meter from your lfs. That is not a lot of water for a 52HD and I would want to make sure I was hitting and not exceeding 250-300 PAR for a full sps system. From my experience in shallow water just a few percentage points difference in settings can change PAR readings by 50+ with the 52HD. More then 6” down the effect is mellowed but in the top 6” depending on your surface agitation you can get some serious hot-spotting.

Also, I would do 1 hr ramps and a 7hr peak daylight period as outlined in world wide corals coral lab study.


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[Caddie]

Hi Orcus,

Currently have a reefer 425XL with 2 26HDs mounted 10'' above the water. What setting would you recommend for an SPS Dominant tank, with LPS on the lower levels? The one drive link above contains no data

Thanks in advance