50g All SPS Cube w/ SPS Frag Tank

[cpllongjk]

Hi Everyone,

I am currently in the middle of upgrading my RedSea Reefer 170 tank to a 50g cube (24"x24"x20"). My Reefer 170 has been set up for a year now and I was in need of a small upgrade to allow all the sps room to grow. I had originally planned to use my spare Reefer170 display tank and convert it to remove the overflow and add a Synergy Reef Ghost Overflow. However, I woke up one morning to a broken tank in the back yard one morning. Since ordering a slightly larger tank was cheaper than replacing my current tank with the overflow removed I will be doing a slight upgrade.

I normally don't suggest "small" upgrades like this but the only place for my tank to go is where it is, and this is the largest display that will fit. It will also allow me to use all my current equipment on the new tank aside from the tank and a new stand.

Here is a video of my current setup. I just shot this video a few days ago showing the status of the full system at 1 year.


Here is a picture of the new tank, ghost overflow installed, and a single 1/2" return on the back left wall. The tank was built for me by SCA Aquariums. They did an excellent job.


Coming next week will be a custom Aluminum T-Slot stand I am building. The stand will be made out of "10 Series" T-Slot Aluminum and even though it will be overbuilt it will allow me to upgrade with very little purchased in the future. One thing I love about T-Slot is the ability to upgrade tanks of the same width with little trouble or cost. For instance, I can easily upgrade to a 100g tank (48x24x20) for only the cost of (4) 46" pieces of aluminum which is roughly $50.

I plan on skinning the stand with oak plywood and using picture hangers to hang it from the t-slot. This type of stand will keep my kids out of the tank due to no doors, give a seamless look, and allow access to all sides if needed.

[sahin]

Will be following along buddy. Always enjoy your tank videos.

[cpllongjk]

Thanks Sahin!

I hope all is going well with your tank and new baby. Things are going crazy in my house and I can't believe I find the time to do the stuff I do.

I have been looking at setting up some kind of auto water change system and I watched Slief's Renew Videos last night and loved them but after looking at my setup and options for where it could go, there just isn't any place I can put it.

So, I think I will end up using the Neptune DOS to complete many small water changes to ensure I do them regularly. Currently, I do a 5 gallon water change every week, two, or three... really whenever I get the time or remember, which isn't what I wanted to do. I can't find a whole lot of auto water change videos using the DOS so I think I will make one as soon as I get something setup and tested.

[cpllongjk]

This will be my last Reefer 170 update before I upgrade the tank to the 50g cube.

The stand is set to arrive next week so I should be putting everything together either later this coming week or early the following week. I still have to order some plumbing parts but was waiting for the stand to arrive and to put it together first. I also need to order the acrylic piece that goes under the sump.

FTS 1/22/17


Spainbow


Aquatic-man Table


Shades of Fall


Sniper's BubbleGum Milli


Hyper Berry


PC Rainbow


Copp's 24k Milli


Cali Tort


PC Superman

[cpllongjk]

Last but not least...

SC Orange Passion


Thanks for looking!

[reefmutt]

Oooooh, nice scape and nice frags!
Love the pe and the great base encrusting!

[cpllongjk]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Oooooh, nice scape and nice frags!
Love the pe and the great base encrusting!

Thank You

[Lilmatty5dimes]

Looks like you've got a great sps collection so far. Your reefer look amazing.

[cpllongjk]

Originally Posted by Lilmatty5dimes

Looks like you've got a great sps collection so far. Your reefer look amazing.

Thank You. I really hate upgrading tanks so soon especially such a small upgrade but some of my corals will over grow and cause problems too soon and I want them to fill out for 1-2 more years before I frag them. Any accidental frags will be placed in the frag tank for a 2nd colony or sold.

[cpllongjk]

For the last 6 months my levels have been the following:

pH 7.8-8.3 (Depends on Season)
Temp 76.5-78.5
Salinity 34-35ppt
Magnesium 1000-1300ppm
Calcium 350-450
dKH 7.1-8.0 (test 2-3 times a week)
Nitrate 0.0
Phosphate (Do not Test)

Both tanks are lit by T5/LED combo
Display: 8 hours t5 - leds 35% max for 4 hours Display 4x24w ATI Hybrid

Frag 8 hours all lighting - no dimming 6x24 sunpower w/ 2 reefbrite tech all blues


Heres my observation and why I started dosing KNO3 (Spectracide Stump Remover):

1. I noticed that all of my corals were pale, more-so in my frag tank and less in display. I mean corals in my display were more pale then when I got them but not as pale than my frag tank.

2. I tried a multitude of things because both tanks are connected so the water quality is identical the only difference is lighting and flow.

3. I tried raising my lights over my frag tank as much as possible, currently 12-14" above the water surface. The corals still are pale in the frag tank, no changes although some corals were coloring up, before Nitrate Dosing, but as much as now.

4. After looking at all my data I wondered if Nitrate could be the issue. I have heard of people dosing Nitrate in the past on Zeovit or Biopellet tanks but never on a reef without these types of biological filtration. My nitrates were still zero and have been for 6 months, especially once I removed the sandbed.

5. I started dosing nitrate very slowly with a diluted solution (1/4tsp:423mL RODI) and very small dosing amounts (10mL). After the first day of dosing my test kit registered 0.2ppm nitrate and then for the past 2-3 weeks of slowly increasing the dose (from 10mL/day - 50mL/day) it has continually been 0.0ppm as my tank has adjusted to the addition of nitrate.


Over these past 2-3 weeks of dosing nitrate I have noticed several things:

1. All of my corals, both in the display and frag tank, are starting to color up a bit and deepen their skin color.

2. The algae my tank produces on the glass and rockwork has slowed compared to before dosing nitrate. **For instance, I would have to clean my glass every 1-2 days with 0.0ppm nitrate but after dosing nitrate to the tank I am going 3+ days before developing the same or less amount of algae on the glass.

3. My stock solution concentration has tripled. (I started with 1/4 tsp : 423mL RODI and I am currently at 3/4 tsp : 500 mL RODI. I am currently dosing 25mL/day which is enough to raise my Tank's Nitrate by 0.8ppm daily.

4.I just tested my Nitrate tonight and it is currently 0.2ppm. I dosed enough solution last night at 10:00pm to raise my nitrate from 0.0ppm to 0.5ppm and throughout today continued to does the same solution to raise my tank's nitrate by 0.8ppm.

5. If my total nitrate in tank between last night and today should be 1.3ppm and the amount of Nitrate I just measured was 0.2 ppm then my consumption looks to be 1.0ppm Nitrate daily.


Questions:

1. Has anyone else noticed what I am noticing when going from ULNS to measurable nitrate?

[Mr.Fishtank]

You will need to bring the nitrates up to 2-5ppm. You should also start testing you po4. It shouldn't read 0. Your pale corals are from too low of nutrients. IMO

Keep dosing the kno3 or start to feed the fish more often. This should help with colors. Do you run any gfo or carbon?

[BubbleMyTip]

Yes. A little nitrate is fine for me. Helps tank bacteria to reduce phosphate. In fact, zeostart3 contains nitrate with its carbon source.

Sounds like you are beginning to strike a good balance but if too much nitrate is dosed then too much phosphate can be reduced, in which case just feed a bit more perhaps. I have found corals show better growth when nitrate is detectable (2-5ppm) and phosphate is barely detectable. I like to think a little like a farmer in terms of N:P:K - the keys to growth. Just a matter of finding the right balance for your tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cpllongjk]

I don't run GFO at all and haven't since the start of the tank. I only ran GFO for a little while in order to pull any Phosphates out of the rock that may have been leaching. I used dried Fiji Rock on this tank.

I can test phosphates but after watching many videos on high phosphates (1.0ppm+) in tanks with crazy good looking SPS, I do not think phosphate impacts corals as much as people believe. Because of this, I don't concern myself with measuring phosphate anymore and ever since I ran out of solution I haven't bought any more solution.

[cpllongjk]

Originally Posted by BubbleMyTip

Yes. A little nitrate is fine for me. Helps tank bacteria to reduce phosphate. In fact, zeostart3 contains nitrate with its carbon source.

Sounds like you are beginning to strike a good balance but if too much nitrate is dosed then too much phosphate can be reduced, in which case just feed a bit more perhaps. I have found corals show better growth when nitrate is detectable (2-5ppm) and phosphate is barely detectable. I like to think a little like a farmer in terms of N:P:K - the keys to growth. Just a matter of finding the right balance for your tank.


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I forgot to mention that, I noticed that too.

My SPS are growing more in these past 2-3 weeks than they have in the past 2-3 months, since dosing nitrate.

[Rakie]

I dosed phosphates and my SPS loved it. I usually dose Nitrates -- I think the ULNS system is dead and outdated, most of the nicest tanks I've seen in person have higher nitrates and some phosphates.

Upon dosing po4, the algae on the glass slowed. I went from scraping every day to every other day. Dosing nitrates makes me need to scrape daily.

[cpllongjk]

Originally Posted by Rakie

I dosed phosphates and my SPS loved it. I usually dose Nitrates -- I think the ULNS system is dead and outdated, most of the nicest tanks I've seen in person have higher nitrates and some phosphates.

Upon dosing po4, the algae on the glass slowed. I went from scraping every day to every other day. Dosing nitrates makes me need to scrape daily.

Rakie there must be a balance, I know someone has done the research I just need to find it, in the relationship between nitrates and phosphates for SPS only tanks.

[Ebn]

Didn't know that there was a reefer in Modesto of all places. I grew up there and still have family in town, so I visit often (actually gonna be there the next couple of weekends coming up).

Nice looking tank so far. Definitely start feeding more (either food or nitrates). Your corals will definitely color up well. I have some of the same corals in my tank. Here's the spainbow for comparison.

Also looking forward to seeing what your t-slot frame looks like once you have it all piece together.

[cpllongjk]

Originally Posted by Ebn

Didn't know that there was a reefer in Modesto of all places. I grew up there and still have family in town, so I visit often (actually gonna be there the next couple of weekends coming up).

Nice looking tank so far. Definitely start feeding more (either food or nitrates). Your corals will definitely color up well. I have some of the same corals in my tank. Here's the spainbow for comparison.

Also looking forward to seeing what your t-slot frame looks like once you have it all piece together.

Thanks for the link. If you ever want to stop by let me know. Just PM me and I'll give you my number. I just need some advanced warning so I can tell the wife and clean up the office; My kids come in and demo the room every few days.

[Rakie]

Originally Posted by cpllongjk

Rakie there must be a balance, I know someone has done the research I just need to find it, in the relationship between nitrates and phosphates for SPS only tanks.

Oh I agree -- I just think people trying for 0/0 nutrients aren't getting the best colors that they can. Honestly I like my nutrients a little on the higher side. 5-10 no3/.03-.05 po4

I would also suggest using pure KNO3 from a fresh water planted tank fertilizer company -- Stump remover isn't pure, I don't care what anyone says, you can smell the chemicals after mixing.. When mixing pure KN03 it's odorless. I'm not the first or only person to notice this. Stump remover claims it's 'pure', but it's not.

[Ebn]

Originally Posted by cpllongjk

Thanks for the link. If you ever want to stop by let me know. Just PM me and I'll give you my number. I just need some advanced warning so I can tell the wife and clean up the office; My kids come in and demo the room every few days.

Haha, I definitely will. Thanks for the invite. I'll let you know at a later time after you've had the chance to get the new tank up and running.

[cpllongjk]

Originally Posted by Ebn

Haha, I definitely will. Thanks for the invite. I'll let you know at a later time after you've had the chance to get the new tank up and running.

It'll be a few weeks before I get everything setup. I am planning on switching from my ati hybrid to Mitras LX7s soon. I think I might start with my display and then move the hybrid over to the frag tank and then eventually do the same with the hybrid.

I have been looking for a complete LED lighting solution for some time now and always disliked the Radions because of the two puck nature of the fixture. I really like how evenly spread the Mitras light is.

[Ebn]

I'm actually going to be visiting a buddy in Berkeley on Thursday evening to check out his updated lighting. He just switched from a combo of Kessils and AIs over to the Mitras LX7s. He's got 3 of them running over his elos currently.

[cpllongjk]

Originally Posted by Ebn

I'm actually going to be visiting a buddy in Berkeley on Thursday evening to check out his updated lighting. He just switched from a combo of Kessils and AIs over to the Mitras LX7s. He's got 3 of them running over his elos currently.

Let me know! I am pretty serious about switching my display over to Mitras and if all goes well my frag tank too.

[cpllongjk]

So...

I've been very busy tonight.

My new stand is built out of "10 series" aluminum t-slot. It measures 24x24x35 and has a very open design. I am a big guy, around 275 lbs, and this thing holds my full weight on just one of the cross beams. So, I am positive it will hold the full tank's weight spread over the 4 legs and all the beams.

I still have to order some roll-in inserts so I can screw the HDPE top down. I also have to order a piece of HDPE for below the sump and screw it down. Once that is done, I can place my IM 24x24 self-leveling foam down on both surfaces.

I plan on skinning the stand with ~1/2" Oak Plywood stained to match my desk next to the tank. The skin will just rest in the T-Slot by using metal picture hangers. In order to remove the panels all I have to do is lift up on any one panel to remove that panel. I will do this to all 3 panels even though I only have access to 2 of the 3 panels. I also plan on leaving the back panel open but if the kids start messing with stuff I may have to block it in some way.


New Stand


I also setup a 15 gallon new salt water reservoir under my frag tank stand and installed a Neptune DOS to complete auto water changes daily. I plan on using the DOS to exchange 3500mL of NSW and OSW daily spread over the course of the day.

I plan on using the salinity probe to turn the AWC system off in the event my salinity goes too high or two low.

My program looks like this:
Fallback OFF
If SG > 36.0 Then OFF
If SG < 34.0 Then OFF

I am ok with a salinity in between 34.1-35.9 and I plan on using my refractometer weekly just to check that my conductivity meter is accurate. The conductivity meter is not a controller it is more of a check to turn the DOS off in the event of a problem. I also have an email/text warning to notify me if my salinity is below 34 or above 36, just like my Temperature.


Neptune DOS




NSW ~15 gallons



Stay tuned! I will do a system-wide update video on YouTube as soon as I get everything finished which should take another few weeks.

[cpllongjk]

I woke up this morning and no water had been changed. I noticed that I forgot a line of code in the safety feature for the dosing pump.

I forgot:

SET ON