Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[eran]

what if I put a line of wo 16 down the seams as well? would that help any?? As you can tell, I have little to no experience with acrylic!!

I need to see what the heck I can make with this. james, what would you do with it? I need to make something with it.

[troylee]

16 is worthless.... solvents are the best and then 40/42...make a skimmer shelf or frag rack out of it...just dont use it for anything that needs to hold water...

[1901]

hey John or Troylee would you mind reading my thread listed under new tank build in DIY. Do you think 1/2" acyclic is to much on all the panels including the bottom? Thanks alot

[aquamn1999]

I'm looking at getting a 96 L x 36W x24H tank. Is 1/2" ok? How much would it bow?

[jnc914]

Acrylics---
Need some help. I need to reduce a baffle in an acrylic sump i bought. The baffle is 3/8" thick and is bonded to sump walls, also 3/8". I know I can not cut too close to the sump wall without cracking it, so I intend to leave about 3/4" of baffle on each side as a buffer. My question is, which would be a better option for the job: Dremel with a diamond cutting disk, or a reciprocal saw with a high tooth count blade? Needless to say I am a bit nervous about cutting the baffle and cracking the sump..... Any suggestions would be helpful.

[Acrylics]

Originally Posted by aquamn1999

I'm looking at getting a 96 L x 36W x24H tank. Is 1/2" ok? How much would it bow?

Provided it's braced well, 1/2" will be structurally sound. I'd expect it to bow ~1/4" at 12 weeks.

Originally Posted by jnc914

Need some help. I need to reduce a baffle in an acrylic sump i bought. The baffle is 3/8" thick and is bonded to sump walls, also 3/8". I know I can not cut too close to the sump wall without cracking it, so I intend to leave about 3/4" of baffle on each side as a buffer. My question is, which would be a better option for the job: Dremel with a diamond cutting disk, or a reciprocal saw with a high tooth count blade? Needless to say I am a bit nervous about cutting the baffle and cracking the sump..... Any suggestions would be helpful.

I'd look at the Dremel first, preferably with a router attachment, but a diamond disk may work well, I've never tried it. The Sawzall only concerns me in that if there are harsh movements - the side may crack on such thin material, again though - I've never tried. If you can keep the "herky-jerky" movements down, no reason the Sawzall shouldn't do okay.
I'm used to just using routers for this type of thing so I may not be of much help on this, sorry

James

[aquamn1999]

Thanks Acrylics!

[maelv]

Originally Posted by troylee

I would use 1/2" material to make it rimless

I didn't see the size of tank this comment was directed at, but I am thinking of toying around and making either a 24x24x14 or 30x30x14 rimless.

Is 1/2" the way to go or would 3/8" work for either of these size tanks?

[Acrylics]

Originally Posted by maelv

I didn't see the size of tank this comment was directed at, but I am thinking of toying around and making either a 24x24x14 or 30x30x14 rimless.

Is 1/2" the way to go or would 3/8" work for either of these size tanks?

I'd say 1/2" at an absolute minimum - preferably 3/4", at least for the vertical panels. If this is a display tank, 1/2" will bow more than you'll want to see. And with the load concentrated at the corners - I would want want the thicker material.

James

[henrystyle]

Acrylic prices are ridiculously high right now....Cheaper to get a custom glass tank built.
I priced some acrylic to build my tank and sump. UNBELIEVABLE.

[PaPa_Johnny]

Ok I did not listen in the beginning, I did not add a flange to the top of my sump as suggested now I have this. I know pictures are not that great, but is there any way to save this sump or is it ton of $ for garbage?




I didn't fabricate this but now I sure would love to repair if possible, thanks ahead of time.

[SI_rEEfer]

I have a couple questions about using IPS Weld-On #40.

I am building a reactor using a 4" ID (4.5" OD) cast acrylic tube. My plan is to attach 4" PVC fittings on the ends using the Weld-On.

How should I apply the Weld-On, industrial syringe, brush or ...? How much should I apply? Any recommendations on what to mix the two-parts in?

Finally, one of the two parts says on the container to store in temperatures below 60F. Where do you all generally store this, refrigerator/cool basement? How critical is this?

Thank you all very much for this thread!

[jdargonaut]

Hey guys, looking for acrylic thickness advice. I'm building a 36"x36"x16" rimless/braceless. The front and side panels are 1-3/16" thick (got it for free). I need to buy a bottom panel and back panel in a couple days. All panels will be purchased cut to size and milled with router.

Will 1/2" material be acceptable for the bottom? The stand will have have 3/4" plywood and will be generously overbuilt for support.

Because of cost, I don't want to get 1-3/16" material for the back. What is the minimum you recommend?

[Roadkillstewie]

Papa Johhny, clean it up...re-glue it and add a top/bracing to it. No promises/guarantees, but may work. Let the seam cure for a day or two at least then fill it and let it set full for a day-3 to make sure it's going to hold and not leak.

[RokleM]

Originally Posted by SI_rEEfer

I have a couple questions about using IPS Weld-On #40.

I am building a reactor using a 4" ID (4.5" OD) cast acrylic tube. My plan is to attach 4" PVC fittings on the ends using the Weld-On.

How should I apply the Weld-On, industrial syringe, brush or ...? How much should I apply? Any recommendations on what to mix the two-parts in?

Finally, one of the two parts says on the container to store in temperatures below 60F. Where do you all generally store this, refrigerator/cool basement? How critical is this?

Thank you all very much for this thread!

I've found the Elos/Salifert ~5mL syringes work very well for most uses. GFS (bulk food place many cafateria's use) has very cheap containers that are great for fragswaps/trading as well as mixing. They're clear and about 50 for ~$5. I use a clear disposable knife. Stir VERY slow in order to not mix in air bubbles. If you get air bubbles, it's not a huge deal. They'll work their way to the surface after you apply them, but it's easier to try to avoid it in the first place. Anything with color (including white) used in mixing will potentially melt and add color to the WO40.

[Acrylics]

Originally Posted by PaPa_Johnny

Ok I did not listen in the beginning, I did not add a flange to the top of my sump as suggested now I have this. I know pictures are not that great, but is there any way to save this sump or is it ton of $ for garbage?

I didn't fabricate this but now I sure would love to repair if possible, thanks ahead of time.

Not sure, it appears the seam broke cleanly which is not a good sign. Despite the lack of bracing, the seams should *never* break clean like this, there is another potential issue here (material, technique, machining, solvent, something..) You can try to clean it up and add a top brace but I'd definitely add gussets to the seams to try to reinforce them.

Originally Posted by SI_rEEfer

I have a couple questions about using IPS Weld-On #40.

I am building a reactor using a 4" ID (4.5" OD) cast acrylic tube. My plan is to attach 4" PVC fittings on the ends using the Weld-On.

How should I apply the Weld-On, industrial syringe, brush or ...? How much should I apply? Any recommendations on what to mix the two-parts in?

Finally, one of the two parts says on the container to store in temperatures below 60F. Where do you all generally store this, refrigerator/cool basement? How critical is this?

Thank you all very much for this thread!

Any 5-20cc/ml syringe should work fine, no needles please

IMO you should raise the tube up about 3/32" and fill the gap with 40. One would prefer an angle on the bottom to facilitate capillary action but not as critical on the thin 1/4" wall.

Storage is not all that critical, it's a shelf life thing. 40 has a longer shelf life if kept cool, but either way - shelf life is ~6 months or less. I used to keep mine in the fridge but don't anymore, the smell will ruin your fridge - just so ya know.

I'm not sure why you're using 40 for this, but that's up to you and yet another program

Originally Posted by jdargonaut

Hey guys, looking for acrylic thickness advice. I'm building a 36"x36"x16" rimless/braceless. The front and side panels are 1-3/16" thick (got it for free). I need to buy a bottom panel and back panel in a couple days. All panels will be purchased cut to size and milled with router.

Will 1/2" material be acceptable for the bottom? The stand will have have 3/4" plywood and will be generously overbuilt for support.

Because of cost, I don't want to get 1-3/16" material for the back. What is the minimum you recommend?

1/2" is just fine for the bottom.
1" is what I'd recommend for the back. 3/4" will hold but will also bow more than you really want to see.

Please be sure the material is good stuff; Polycast, Acrylite GP, or Plexi-Glas G. Same goes for the 1 1/4" you have, if it's not one of the above brands - I would not build a tank with it. Mot other brands are far too variable in their quality controls so may/may not glue well and if they do glue "well" - may not hold over time, so simply not recommended.

HTH,
James

[jdargonaut]

Thanks James, unfortunately, the stuff i got for free was being used as a window panel so there was no masking to be able to identify what brand or type. That's one reason I want to keep the build on the cheap side, just in case it doesn't work out.

Is there any other way to tell what kind it is? I'd hate waste the material unless I new for sure that it's garbage, it's crystal clear and in perfect shape. The panel I have is 3'x4'x1-3/16" and was installed in place of bullet proof glass (there were 2 other window panels, but those were level 1 bullet resistant glass).

[Acrylics]

Originally Posted by jdargonaut

Thanks James, unfortunately, the stuff i got for free was being used as a window panel so there was no masking to be able to identify what brand or type. That's one reason I want to keep the build on the cheap side, just in case it doesn't work out.

Is there any other way to tell what kind it is? I'd hate waste the material unless I new for sure that it's garbage, it's crystal clear and in perfect shape. The panel I have is 3'x4'x1-3/16" and was installed in place of bullet proof glass (there were 2 other window panels, but those were level 1 bullet resistant glass).

If it's less than 1.25" then I couldn't tell ya who made it as many mfrs make 1.25" and it usually runs thin. And it won't be bullet resistant material so whoever installed it rather than BR material potentially just put lives in jeopardy (if BR material was spec'd) UL listing for Level I BR acrylic calls for 1.25" minimum thickness and the 2 major brands of this material meet this spec every time. Those two would be Polycast and Acrylite GP, each would be suitable for aquaria provided the AR (abrasion resistant) coating is not present or has been removed.

HTH?
James

[jdargonaut]

Ok thanks, maybe I'll cut my cost and risk and just make it 36"x36"x12" and use the 1-3/16" material for all sides. That way, less pressure, and I only invest in the bottom piece which is the cheaper 1/2" material.

btw, I demoed the store, so lives are no longer in jeapardy. (i'm a contractor, the store did not belong to me).

thanks so much for the advice.
Jason

[Acrylics]

Originally Posted by jdargonaut

btw, I demoed the store, so lives are no longer in jeapardy. (i'm a contractor, the store did not belong to me).

ah, gotcha

[depresed34]

has anybody made large cone skimmer?

[Lanimret]

I'm doing a small modification project to some tanks I picked up. I've done some acrylic work before successfully, and used WO-4 to do it.

However I went by the acrylic shop today and they were out of WO-4, they only had WO-3, and he wasn't sure when he'd be getting more 4 (he said they were back ordered).

He also said they very recently reformulated WO-3 in an attempt to better comply with California law and it now has a longer set time and should be fine. I picked up the can (I can always return it) but I am a little concerned. Thankfully this is a small project (building an external overflow box), but does what he said have any truth to it, and should I proceed or wait until he's able to get some more #4?

[Acrylics]

Originally Posted by Lanimret

I'm doing a small modification project to some tanks I picked up. I've done some acrylic work before successfully, and used WO-4 to do it.

However I went by the acrylic shop today and they were out of WO-4, they only had WO-3, and he wasn't sure when he'd be getting more 4 (he said they were back ordered).

He also said they very recently reformulated WO-3 in an attempt to better comply with California law and it now has a longer set time and should be fine. I picked up the can (I can always return it) but I am a little concerned. Thankfully this is a small project (building an external overflow box), but does what he said have any truth to it, and should I proceed or wait until he's able to get some more #4?

I can't comment on a different set time, but yep - IPS has changed it's formulation several times in the last few years to meet southern California's "environmental standards". For a while they were putting out a special solvent just for CA labeled WO-4SC if I recall correctly.

WO3 works just as well as 4 and is just as strong, if not stronger, just that the working time is a little shorter. Maybe do a couple of practice joints to see if it works for ya?

James

[PaPa_Johnny]

Originally Posted by Acrylics

Not sure, it appears the seam broke cleanly which is not a good sign. Despite the lack of bracing, the seams should *never* break clean like this, there is another potential issue here (material, technique, machining, solvent, something..) You can try to clean it up and add a top brace but I'd definitely add gussets to the seams to try to reinforce them.


HTH,
James

James, thanks for you reply that's kinda of what I'm thinking that the seams are very questionable. I was hoping you had better news for me.

If I add a piece of 1/2" (or should it be thicker?) material at each corner as a gusset, (say 3/4" wide) what do you think the safety of the sump will be? I have to completely break down the tank to remove the sump and I am not sure if it's worth the risk of reusing this POS sigh. If the side separated like that, and it appears to be running down the entire side, the bottom could next yes? It's to bad I bought this so long ago........

[Acrylics]

Originally Posted by PaPa_Johnny

James, thanks for you reply that's kinda of what I'm thinking that the seams are very questionable. I was hoping you had better news for me.

If I add a piece of 1/2" (or should it be thicker?) material at each corner as a gusset, (say 3/4" wide) what do you think the safety of the sump will be?

Provided you can get the gussets to glue in there, should be okay, but, if the joints are breaking clean because bad material was used - no way of knowing how long the "fix" will last.

I have to completely break down the tank to remove the sump and I am not sure if it's worth the risk of reusing this POS sigh. If the side separated like that, and it appears to be running down the entire side, the bottom could next yes?

could be, very difficult to say, but yep - other joints could go as well

Not knowing what your budget concerns are, I'd try the gussets and start saving for a new sump - best to at least be prepared

James