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01/20/2019, 05:41 PM | #1426 |
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That’s funny, it does sound like a tazer!
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Matt. Current Tank Info: 53x32.5x26 190g dt 60g of sumps 3 tank-100 gal frag system 6xAI prime 8xt5. 4x maxspect gyre. Skimz Dual internal sicce pump skimmer Deltec PF601s ca rx+Kalk stirrer |
01/20/2019, 06:44 PM | #1427 |
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Here is another short video. Shortly before recording it, the silver belly wrasse jumped out of the tank while I was uploading the previous video. I was impressed with the distance of its jump.
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01/20/2019, 08:31 PM | #1428 |
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This is one amazing looking tank. I might have to reach out to you and spend a few more hundred to have you make an amazing tank for me. Loving the tank setup.
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01/21/2019, 11:19 AM | #1429 | |
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Quote:
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01/21/2019, 11:23 AM | #1430 |
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Despite a taser like sound the CBB made while trying to munch the aiptasia, I think in the end, I have a sneaky suspicion that the file fish had the last laugh. I can clearly see the file swallowing something right at the end of the video.
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01/22/2019, 01:55 PM | #1431 |
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Just found this thread. It's all been said before but amazing tank.
If you don't mind, would you be able to provide your fish list as it is now? And if you had any difficulties you may have faced in your experience and how you handled it. I think one of the biggest distinguishing traits of your tank is the fish load - which from what I've read, almost everyone would say "overstocked". But it's clearly working for you and while corals are beautiful, the fish really draw me to any reef tank and give it a spark of life. Thanks! |
01/22/2019, 06:40 PM | #1432 | |
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I have 12 fish in my tank at present. Here is the current stocking list:
Evansi anthias are without doubt the best anthias I ever kept in terms of appearence and behaviour. They are very peaceful. But they were very challenging initially. Even though they appeared to feed in my dealer's tank, feeding them in my tank proved very difficult. I had to purchase special copepods called Ocean Prime Copepods 500-700 um. They are now eating pretty much every frozen food (but never flake) I offer except large pieces, such as large pieces of PE mysis or krill. During this interim period, I lost two of the four fish I originally purchased. I bought my filefish, which is sps safe, to replace an old filefish that died a few years ago. After its death, aiptasia came back to main display. Initially, the new filefish did not touch any aiptasia, but I trained him by keeping it in my weir, which was full of aiptasia, for several weeks. Once I was convinced that it became an aiptasia terminator, I released it to the main tank. It is a very efficient hunter. I love this fish. My Genicanthus angelfish are completely reef safe and they are joy to watch. G. bellus is at the bottom of the pecking order and G. lamarck is the boss. He used to be a she. It is a strong fish and chases G. watanabei ferociously from time to time. When I buy new Genicanthus fish, I tend to go for a small female (the smallest size I can get). This way, the chances of bullying is minimised. In my opinion, lyretail anthias are one of the most aggressive ones. For this reason, I bought only one female. Sadly, she is becoming a male and as a result s/he has started to show aggression towards evansii anthias. The newest addition is a yellow longnose butterflyfish. It is sps-safe. It does not even touch my only remaining giant feather duster worm. It is a joy to watch. The most challenging fish of all is, without a doubt, the copperband butterflyfish. She is behind the nutrient spike in my tank. Before I bought her, I ensured that she was feeding on PE mysis in my dealer's tank. She is a large specimen and was collected somewhere in Australian waters. To date, she only eats PE mysis, clams and mussels and nothing else. She is not as agile as the other fish by which I mean she does not move fast and make rapid movements like my other fish do to compete for the food. This is highly annoying. To compensate her deficiency, I either feed the tank more than normal or spot feed her with a long pipet exclusively. Furthermore, when I feed clams and mussels, I freeze these shellfish first and then introduce to the tank. As the shellfish start to defrost their shell start to open slowly. This then gives both the yellow longnose and the copperband an opportunity to use their long snouts to their advantage to gorge on the food while others helplessly look on. For your information, I feed my fish exclusively on frozen food three times a day. The amount of food I offer is equivalent to 4 cubes or very slightly more (due to PE mysis).
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01/23/2019, 09:45 AM | #1433 |
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What a sneaky and brilliant trick - adding the clams frozen so that they thaw and open up slowly!
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01/23/2019, 09:48 AM | #1434 |
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Thanks for the update. I like your new additions. Your confetti looks the part just like mine when I got it.
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Brandon I'm not saying let's get rid of all the stupid people.* I'm just saying let's remove all the warning labels and let the problem work itself out. Current Tank Info: 150g DT plumbed to an 80g frag tank and 220g sump in the basement. ~6-MP40s ~ 12 ATI powered t5s ~ Reefbrites and Radions supplementing ~ Custom GEO Skimmer ~ GEO CA Reactor 6x24~ Iwaki 70 Return ~ |
01/23/2019, 10:13 AM | #1435 |
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Wow thank you for the detailed response. I recently came back to the hobby and based on research, I'm on the high nutrient side as well. Your tank is especially of interest to me because we have a similar size system and I want to do SPS dominant with a higher fish load. My main fish are actually a pair of Watanabei Angelfish, and I'm on the lookout for a small female Bellus to add next - we share the appreciation for Genicanthus angels it seems; overall, your reef is definitely a model for my own and I can learn a lot from your experiences
12 fish seem to be on the lower end for you based on past years - earlier in this thread it seems you had up to 21 fish at one point. Did you decide to reduce the fish count for any particular reason(s) or is it just how the current state of your reef is at? Did you find having upwards to 21 fish caused any notable issues based on your system size? Thank you for your insights! Last edited by AP7x; 01/23/2019 at 10:53 AM. |
01/23/2019, 04:19 PM | #1436 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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01/23/2019, 04:42 PM | #1437 | |
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Based on my experience, about 13 fish is the optimum number for my tank if I want to manage PO4 without any PO4 adsorbers. If I have over this number, some sort of PO4 adsorber becomes necessary.
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01/24/2019, 10:32 AM | #1438 |
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Ah ok, I guess I was focusing more on the post-2015 info, including your Ultimate Reef TOTM article which included the resplendent anthias. I am sorry to hear about their loss as well as the others. It is especially disappointing when they are eating well and show no signs of distress.
It is interesting that the resplendent suddenly died in a similar time span after a few years of living well. However, from what I've been reading on forums, it seems anthias long term in captivity is a challenge (except maybe the hardiest of them like the lyretail). Even the 3+ years is a mark of success relative to most, and perhaps age was a factor for such a highly active species. I'm still reading through this thread and finding new things to look into. I appreciate your time and I'll definitely be keeping up with this thread - the longevity and results of the tank are amazing, and the details you provide are more informative than most sources online or otherwise haha. Looking forward to the updates in 2019! |
01/24/2019, 03:02 PM | #1439 | |
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Quote:
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01/26/2019, 03:49 PM | #1440 |
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I did some water tests yesterday and today.
NO3: 25 ppm PO4: 0.25 mg/L KH: 6.55 dKH Ca: 435 ppm Mg: 1320 ppm Alkalinity dropped 1 dKH over the past seven days. But this has nothing to do with growth. The strength of limewater in my kalkstirrer has weakened as the calcium hydroxide media needs replacing soon. The amount of additional two-part dosing is at its lowest level since I began to use kalkstirrer almost four years ago. This is a good indicator of how slow the coral growth is lately. Bryopsis keep growing and I keep pruning them weekly. They are seriously testing my patience. There is also some cyanobacteria presence in isolated spots. FM Ultra Phos is simply maintaining PO4 within a narrow range (typically 0.14-0.25 mg/L depending on how frequently I replace the media) as opposed to reducing it. I have decided to cut down food slightly and start to alternate Ultra Phos with Rowa Phos. I am starting my new strategy tomorrow. NO3:PO4 ratio is 100:1. Coral colours look saturated and quite good I must admit. I dose Bacto-Balance at its maximum recommended daily dose (i.e. 1 ml per 100L). I supplement it with A- Balance at its maximum daily recommended dose (i.e. 1 ml per 100L). I also dose Reef Actif at its maximum recommended dose (i.e. 2.5 ml per 250 L three times a week). Finally, here are some random photos I took earlier this afternoon: P1120712 P1120716 P1120725 P1120726 P1120731
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01/27/2019, 01:25 PM | #1441 |
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I am very family with those numbers, Bulent! I had great colors too.
You mentioned on schnitzel’s thread that you were tempted by an algae fuge... I bet it would help pull things down a bit.. Have you considered fluconazole for the bryopsis? Tanks looks good!
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01/27/2019, 01:37 PM | #1442 | |
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As for bryopsis, am I right that you used fluconazole in your tank? If so, would you direct me to the pages in which you discussed your experience with it. I think I may have to resort to this anti-fungal medication to get rid of this nuisance algae once and for all.
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02/01/2019, 05:36 AM | #1443 |
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I started to use RowaPhos again five days ago after a four-year break. I have just tested nutrients.
NO3: 25 ppm no change PO4: 0.14 mg/L (down from 0.25 mg/L). I will continue to use RowaPhos a little longer. I am hoping that once PO4 is under 0.1 mg/L, the growth will recommence, which will then keep PO4 in check with just Bacto-Balance with occasional GFO/Ultra Phos use, but my reef has its own mind. Time will tell what will happen.
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02/01/2019, 05:46 AM | #1444 |
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What is your sweet spot for nitrates? I am trying to lower mine from 20 to see if growth is spurred. Thanks.
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02/01/2019, 05:56 AM | #1445 | |
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As for "sweet spot", I do not evaluate NO3 in isolation. I also take PO4 into account. My experience suggests that as long as the ratio between NO3 and PO4 is around 100:1, I observe really deep and good colours on Acroporids. If PO4 is also well below 0.1 mg/L with this kind of high ratio between the two nutrients, I get super fast coral growth even when alkalinity is below 7 dKH.
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02/01/2019, 12:58 PM | #1446 |
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Acropora sarmentosa showing signs of good health despite high nutrients. Its current dimensions are 8.5" X 8" X 3".
P1120733
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02/01/2019, 01:02 PM | #1447 |
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Nutrients are a difficult topic for me. It appears that my corals are ok with nitrates at 20 ppm and alk at 9.0 but yours are exceptional and much lower levels and I don’t believe you feed your corals do you?
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02/01/2019, 02:45 PM | #1448 | |
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High fish load is also very beneficial to corals as symbiotic bacteria have preference for ammonia/ammonium produced by fish urea for food over another nitrogen source, nitrates. If you like reading, let me know, so that I will send you a scientific paper about this topic.
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02/01/2019, 02:46 PM | #1449 |
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Yes please PM the link to me. Thanks
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02/03/2019, 11:24 AM | #1450 | |
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I have used fluco twice. Both times, the bryopsis was the first thing to go but it impacted all types of algea in my system. I had to restart my fuge both times. It also caused an increase in nitrates.. unfortunately I don’t really know exactly where in my thread.. feel free to ask me any questions you have Bulent..
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